Nodachi Sword – For Honor - Man At Arms: Reforged (feat. Mark Dacascos)

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what's with the random peacekeeper?

👍︎︎ 13 👤︎︎ u/KingKoa1a 📅︎︎ Feb 06 2017 🗫︎ replies

The handle looks way too big and the blade too small... Still awesome though.

👍︎︎ 9 👤︎︎ u/samsy19 📅︎︎ Feb 06 2017 🗫︎ replies

looks pretty cool except for the crossguard, looks a lil bit weak, but thats literally the only part that looks not as good....

👍︎︎ 3 👤︎︎ u/Gun-Runner 📅︎︎ Feb 06 2017 🗫︎ replies

Hype is over 9000! Can't wait to chop some heads with Kensei.

👍︎︎ 3 👤︎︎ u/Artvil 📅︎︎ Feb 06 2017 🗫︎ replies

Hahaha... "Precious" nippon steel

👍︎︎ 3 👤︎︎ u/KenraaliPancho 📅︎︎ Feb 06 2017 🗫︎ replies

Badass

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/ssnapcity 📅︎︎ Feb 07 2017 🗫︎ replies

I don't really watch them anymore. They do not use dampened tatami mats for the cutting to my knowledge, and despite their big talk and hundreds of thousands in equipment, smaller swordsmiths do better work with so much less.

Not an attack on OP or anything. Just saying Man at Arms has lost a lot of my respect over the years. I used to view all their stuff, but after awhile noticed the quality just wasn't there and more often than not their "video game replicas" were really misshapen and could barely cut plastic.

Michael Cthulhu does real good work for what little he has, and a ton of his earnings go to charity. There are other small smiths you will find if you stay on that track too.

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/Speaksinriddles 📅︎︎ Feb 07 2017 🗫︎ replies
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this is man at arms reforged perhaps no blade  has been more revered throughout history than   the katana and today we're making the epic  no dachi sword a katana style blade that is   used by the kenzei in for honor which will be  available on february 14th in for honor players   can step into a visceral battlefield and fight as  some of history's greatest warriors the vikings   the knights and the samurai any katana style  sword over 30 inches was in odachi which made   for a fearsome weapon the nordacchia that we are  making is based on the real swords of the japanese   samurai in japanese samurai translates as those  who serve this manta samurai dedicated his life   to mastering the art of combat in order to defend  their master legend has it that they took this so   seriously that a samurai could neither be born nor  die without a sword nearby now that is commitment even though this blade is going to be made  out of traditional japanese tahamagani steel   and that's a pretty big deal  we've shown you that several times   and we usually skip over the fittings pretty  quickly because we've seen a lot of requests   to show more work on the fittings and  the fit and finish we're going to jump   right into the hand beveling of the blade  and then move on to the highly detailed fittings we need some thick masses of copper for some of  these fittings we'll be melting down some copper   pipe it'll go in the crucible come up over 2000  degrees fahrenheit be poured directly into an   ingot mold and then we'll begin forging the ingot  to get the sheet we'll be making the souba from   now the blade is forged it's time to start  the stock removal portion of this build i'm   just going to follow the guidelines that  ilya's forged into this blade already   take out a few of the little bumps here  and there and then i'll hand it off to him   he'll get it clayed and he treated because this  material is so precious and we are going to be   quenching it into water i want to make sure my  edge thickness stays nice and thick just to play   it on the safe side so you notice i'm taking my  time make sure i don't remove too much material after annealing rick and i begin  to drive this ingot down on itself   we'll need to anneal it several times as  it begins to flatten out it'll give us a   better consistency of material that  we can cut and form the souba from   it is a tradition in japanese swords to  prefer differential heat treating that is   usually achieved by masking off the back of the  blade with clay and leaving the edge uncovered   if you notice there are small lines of clay  extending from the back clade to the edge   those are called ashy lines the purpose of usher  lines is to introduce smaller regions of softer   material extending from the back to the edge that  prevents chipping that might occur during combat   so we've continued to reduce this ingot down and  we have a fair amount of material it's much more   than what we need so we're going to keep working  this down we're going to get it down just above   a quarter inch and then saw pierce and cut out the  entire piece for the subaru i'm still mostly doing   roughing work and i'm also doing some grinding so  i'm not going to worry about hammer marks too much   now the clay is nice and dry on the surface  of the blade it's time to heat treat   since this is really precious material  we are taking a risk going in the water   but we really want to show you this as  he removes the blade from the quench   you can see it's gained a lot of curve it  went in straight and came out just right using the template that ilia gave her  lauren's now going to lay the design onto our   copper disk and then use a saw and pierce it out now the shape is cut out lauren's going  to go around the entire edge with a file   making a nice clean bevel the middle of  the handle the tsuka has a copper ornament   the game designers executed that in a very  victorian style so consequently i'm going to   use a set of chisels first aligner to outline  the design then i'm going to use a planishing   chisel to push the design back the pitch which  fills the ornament is going to push the design   up and at that stage i will rotate to more  finer set of chisels to do all the detail work   so now we have the copper suba finished the  outside edges are all done the surfaces are   just about where they're going to be before  we patina what we've got to do now is we've   got to fit it to the blade we already have  a steel suba that's fitted to that blade to   make sure that we could get this shape right  so what we'll be doing now is we're going to   overlay this i'm going to scratch in the ink  the shape of that hole drill the whole saw   pierce all the way around until it fits and  then we'll do all hand file fit to the blade   what i have to do now is to produce  a or engraving on the blade so   here i have a rough outline where my hamon is the  reason why i did that i want to constantly see   how close i am to the hard edge that way i  don't damage neither my tools nor the sword   here is the rough sketch i'm going to generally  follow the plum blossom motif that you see in the game for the brass embellishments on the suba i'm  going to be punching these brass sections out   on this pepe tools punching system uh what  we'll do is we're going to punch them all   see they're fairly small they're about a half  inch rather than drilling through and putting   rivets which was a consideration these are  going to be soldered directly onto the piece   so i'm going to punch out 20 of these there's 10  on each side i'll clean them up a little bit put   a little solder on them they'll all get set  directly in place where they're going to go   and then we'll come in with a torch bring the  whole piece up to temperature when the solder   sets down we'll see everything kind of fall into  place bring it off let it cool it'll be permanent   according to the samurai  code of conduct or bushido   the way of the samurai is found in death this  is what helped give them their warrior spirit   a samurai would rather die than fail or be  dishonored and were prepared to do so in   every battle without a fear of death a samurai  could reach a state of mind known as mushi   or selflessness they would become one with  their blade and give themselves completely   to their training becoming ruthless  killers capable of the swiftest combat   out of all the fittings that the craftsman makes  the habakkuk is the only part of the fittings   that permanently stays with the blade while  the rest the tube where the fushi the kashara   the tsuka minuki can be all switched around  for different occasions the baki is crucial   as it is a structural piece rather than a  decorative one and is formed specifically   to that blade the way it is done you stretch  out a piece of copper create two offsets on one   side and then one offset in the back it is very  similar to the way in the west people make axes at this point you form it around the tang and  then file it which is what i'm gonna do now   all i have to do is rough filing and rough  shaping removing all the hammer marks   and setting up my general form now that he has his surfaces prepared  the way he wants for a finish   ilya can go in and lay in  the engraving on the hibaki there are several ways to create a two-piece  or two-tone hivaki in this case what we're   doing is working directly with the copper and  laying 24 karat gold over the back section   on the hibaki you've seen that ilia has  already engraved this section we've put   some tape over it both to protect it and  to keep it away from the plating solution   gold plating solution has 24 karat gold  directly in it it'll allow the electricity   to flow through positive our negative here  which is attached directly to the hibaki   we're going to be laying this solution  down you'll see it here pretty quickly   we'll put on two or three coats over the entire  piece and then we'll be able to peel this back   and see a two-tone finish for the koshero which  will also be the pommel for this sword the entire   piece will be raised from a sheet of copper  it'll first be dished from this side then it'll   be raised over a stake i'll be working around the  concentric rings to keep it round we'll trim it   then ilia is going to take that piece it's going  to get cut carved and fitted over the existing handle as you can see now we've gotten quite a bit  of height we've gotten much smaller this is   about the size we're going to be when we're  finished these sides are almost going to be   straight on this before we take this piece  to be oval but it'll be only about that big   so i'll keep driving it in and hammering it  until that surface is brought all the way in   kerry's done raising and planishing the  caster of the pommel for the sword and   i'm prepared to engrave it the kosher on the  sword is characteristic of early tachycastras   with a cut out right here i'm going to engrave  the piece first and then cut it out because it's   easier for me to hold it with my holding  stick right here if i cut it out first   the piece will start moving and responding way  too much to the blows of even this tiny hammer it's time to move to the mill and carve out the  recess and then we'll file it all to shape later using a small hand hammer on the end of the horn  of our anvil ilya goes in upsets the end drives   it back and rolls it over creating a bead once  this is in place he'll be able to place a plug   in the end of the copper to support it and take  a chisel over the edges to create the roping   using hand chisels and a mallet leah is  going to very carefully carve out the recess   for our tang this is the beginning of the sukkah now that both sides of the handle are recessed  it's time to clamp them together and glue them up   once they're glued we move right to the sander and  start forming it to shape first thing you want to   do is get your length and width then you're going  to knock the corners and round everything over so jen now uses a razor to cut this  ray skin usually you would see us use   a sharp pair of shears or large scissors  for something like this but in this case   this material will destroy the surfaces and  edges so we need to use something disposable now the second coat of glue is applied we'll let  it dry then we'll come back and put it together the fushi or the fitting that is  closest to the guard on this sword   keeps the handle tight and allows it to be  under compression from the coogie pin that   holds the entire sword together i was able to  make it quickly from a piece of copper pipe   once it's to form billia  now puts in the serious work the last stage in polishing the  japanese sword is to burnish the back   and the shinogi g the purpose of burnishing  is to close off the natural porosity   in the grain of the steel that  produces a rich dark mirror finish even though this handle is in two pieces it's  going to be the largest handle that john's   wrapped for length he's got to make sure he has  just the right amount of cord he'll take his time   keep everything tight and lay it all in place  at the very end it'll be tied into the cashier it was said that the ancient japanese swordsmiths  put everything they had into making the perfect   weapon including their very soul of course  there's really only one way to test the blade so until next time stay sharp thanks to for honor for sponsoring this episode  you can wield the nodaci and fight for the kensei   in the game available february 14th if you  want to see the construction of the knights   peacekeeper armor featured in this episode's  demolition segment click the box on the right
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Channel: AWE me
Views: 13,664,641
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: katana sword, for honor, for honor gameplay, for honor weapons, for honor samurai gameplay, samurai sword, katana samurai sword, sword fight, katana fight, katana sword making, katana making, sword making, katana sword test, samurai, sword, ubisoft, gameplay for honor, Mark Dacascos, man at arms, for honor samurai, awe me, japanese katana sword, making katana sword, forging katana sword, katana, anime sword
Id: UbSrnjNGBdA
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 17min 0sec (1020 seconds)
Published: Mon Feb 06 2017
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