No Power on a £300 Ministry of Sound Bluetooth Wi-Fi SPEAKER - Trying to FIX

[Music] hi there my name's vince from mymatevince.com and in this video today we're going to be trying to fix up this big ministry of sound speaker this thing is huge look at it so this was sent in by a viewer and it's got no power so i've plugged it in just fire it's got 240 volts going straight into it we have a line in and also usb there and when i turn it on at the side it's not doing anything if i hold the power button down for 10 seconds or so it still doesn't do anything so it's completely dead it looks like there might be a bluetooth pairing button above it that doesn't do anything either now the note that came with it says that ministry of sound bluetooth speaker the problem is it's suddenly stopped working don't want to turn on and now it's completely dead i opened up see if there's something obvious but without success so you've got remove the rubber seal at the bottom and there's six screws and then you have to remove the grille and there's eight screws so let's go straight over to the blue mat and let's see if we can follow the path on the way in and see if we can get this speaker pumping out some sound again so let's take off the rubber strip and while we're doing this let's give a shout out to the my mate vince massive and this month the massive include operational 117 kit digital.com kip hakes max rokatansky having fun repairs ellensburg amplifier repair and service will michaelis chris seal the my mate vince fan club dorian from hoover lux restorations mediasteamer.com rob hughes felipe mrkeeves.com and dan prutten thanks very much for all the support that i get whether that's on patreon messages or simply viewing these videos well it's definitely stuck very well on the top i'm just kind of trying to walk it out a bit and it's starting to come there we go i always remember years ago when i was at university i i shouldn't laugh but my friend tony we had a house party and it was around our house and tony brought round a sound system i can't remember what it was but it was pretty good well it was good at the time you know when nobody had any money uh and uh yeah i had had the night and stuff and obviously during the night somebody had got a hold of one of his speakers pulled off the cover and tented in the cones here and i can see why it's very tempting but obviously that ruins the sound so yeah he was uh understandably very disappointed never found out who did it though now i'm done let's see how this is now going to come apart here we go just pulling out here all right what we've got loads of padding now can i undo these speakers easily it could be as simple as the on and off switch here not operating what's going on here let's take out this stuff here it's all very very very clean isn't it okay let's take it away from where should i put the oh that came out there so that can't go in wrong that has to go in there that could go in there how am i going to know which side is what i'm just going to take a picture of that on my phone also going to take a picture of the way the ribbon cable goes in because the contacts are this side here okay so that's easy so basically these cables here have the speakers and the tweeters up top and this is just a control cable for this little board so i think to begin with let's see if the on and off switch is working okay so the leads beep when they are together so let's try these two okay so they're on so it's going to be diagonals and that is working and here right that's definitely working while i'm here i'm just going to check this switch both of those switches are fine but it doesn't mean they're traveling down the ribbon cable so let's see if we can work out where the contacts are on this little ribbon cable so let's just go across the pins okay so the last two there and now let's go on to this one that one there so if i was to go there and here we now know that we've got continuity right through the ribbon cable so i think that side of it is okay it's quite nice working on this because they're just so nice and clean let's have a look in here now so we've got two boards this must be the power ball down here that converts the ac to i presume dc and this must be like the control board for it looks like we've got something up here can we sit can you see it goes up here as well so this is going to be controlling like the bluetooth and everything like that it's supposed to be just stuck out like that i think that goes under there maybe this has wi-fi as well in fact i wonder if that's the bluetooth and wi-fi card there right so i suppose to begin with we need to find out are we actually getting power into that board so what happens here we have a little mark out down here of where things go let's zoom in on that so we got ground usb plus and minus five volts out bottom connectors usb right a ground left 18 volts and ground so this is the one here so if we were to plug it in i should measure 18 volts here shouldn't i and if we don't then we know it's a problem with the power board if we do then we need to fault find this board here i think that would probably be the best uh the best thing to do so obviously when i put voltage into the back i'm keeping my hands well away from here because 240 volts will be going into this area here let's undo this one and let's see if we have 18 volts on those connections hopefully you can just about make out my meter there we go on dc volts i'm going to plug it in but i'm keeping my hands well away from everything so now we should have 240 volts going into it let's see if we have anything on this board so we've got ground up top and 18 volts at the bottom and as you can see we've got nothing we have nothing on that meter there now there's nothing there but there could be i'm just going to unplug it i wonder whether or not it needs to be turned on before it will see that signal or will there always be 18 volts there do you know is there something on this board the power ball that's going to turn on because we do have other connections don't we but i think right now it's probably a good bet to have a look at this power supply just four screws at the bottom here that i'm going to undo there's little bits of glue holding these connectors in as well now we've got screws at the back there that needs to come undone there we go we're free now i'm not touching anything underneath there because i want to measure the big cap so where's the cap there's a massive one just here so it's going to be these two uh connections here [Music] so i'm just on dc no there's nothing there whatsoever right okay is there anything else on here that's going to cause me any problems so it looks like we've got a bridge rectifier here this one here with the four connections so that's going to turn the ac into dc and i can see a little fuse can you see the fuse here oh there's a component blown isn't there look at that green component next to the fuse see here the top of that looks blown doesn't it but there's a little fuse here and it's uh t3 250 volts t3.15 not sure what that means let's just go on the bottom of the fuse and see if we've got any continuity so the fuse is going to be this one here fuse is blown right so the fuse is blown but it's not the fuse is blown for a reason i wonder is it that component or is it something more major is there like a chip on here which took out other components when it's shorted right so it's definitely going to be a repair that needs parts let's undo this mess here yeah there you go nicely blown isn't it now is that called a is it a virista or thermistor let me have a let me have a look look what came through in the post the other day encyclopedia of electronic components volume 1 volume 2 and volume 3 all in immaculate condition sent in by james i wasn't expecting these they just turned up so thank you james let's have a little look in here thermistor so ptc thermistors in which the resistance increases as the temperature increases what it does ntc thermistor is the most common type of discrete component temperature sensor and is usually the most affordable it resistance there is resistance diminishes as the temperature increases right so it measures so it measures temperature i'm not sure if that's a thermistor then can't really see what's going on underneath there anyway let's follow let's follow the root off the uh the one by the fuse so it's not going through the fuse obviously that's 100 why it's not working but what's taking the fuse out right so it goes to here not going through the fuse from the fuse it goes up to this here which is is that one of the capacitors to stop noise going back onto the line and then a coil so the coil gonna be going through here yeah so here and here so the coil looks to be okay then from the coil it goes up to this uh mov metal oxide varista or something right okay uh um thing is i'd like to check for voltages here at the bridge rectifier tell you what let's check the bridge rectifier see if that's blown so i've got it on diode test nothing nothing nothing swap the leads something something something i think the bridge rectifier is okay what's caused the fuse to blow let me see what fuses i have now i haven't got a great selection of fuses and this is just purely for testing i have some four amp ones so these ones are t315 and i didn't know whether it was like t3 15 amp i think it's 3.15 amps that that can handle at 250 volts so uh i've got four amp ones which are the glass tube ones still slow blow and i've got these ones here which are two amp and these are proper ones from rs components as well so just for testing i'm going to pop in a two amp one just to see whether or not to see what then to see what if it blows straight away now to save me just wasting the fuse because i know that i think it's going to be highly unlikely that the fuse is gone something must have caused the fuse to go but uh i don't when i get my multimeter and go across those wires it doesn't seem to be short on there now but saying that maybe then when it's livened up that's when the short will come but look if i just put it to normal resistance and if i was to go from here to here right so that's in contact with that one not there that's in contact with that one so between here and here this is before the fuse isn't it so there's nothing there but now look if we were to go from here to after the fuse can you see there's nothing there and also from there after the fuse there's nothing there either so i don't think it's something i don't know i don't know but i don't think it's like the bridge rectifier which has a full-on short because i would be seeing that here then wouldn't i because that would be the the two coming in on the ac the live and neutral would be would be shorted wouldn't they i think i'm just gonna pop i think i'm gonna pop this in just here on this side just to see what it uh what it does oh actually you know what if i get it working i need to replace it anyway so i might as well just completely unsolder [Music] it all right that's the old fuse out yeah and it's definitely blown let's just see what happens when i go on to these prongs at the back here okay so we now have continuity up this way here into the bridge rectifier yep now when i go on the other lead yeah it's not short in there and that's coming up there so it looks good up until the bridge rectifier doesn't it let's uh plug it in and see what it does so i've left those leads along there so i can just use that again in the future again i'm keeping my hands well clear of everything i just want to see now if we have 18 volts here or whether we see like a puff of smoke or something coming from one of the components and that might give away what the actual fault is so uh here we go i'm gonna plug it in let's see is it gonna go bang three two one and plug in right i'm plugged in didn't hear anything can't see any smoke let's see if we have 18 volts here well we've got two volts that might be enough there was nothing there earlier 2.2 i wonder when that goes through to the board does something else come back and tell this to turn on we've definitely got something there now haven't we i wonder do we have five volts on this usb no it's climbing um strange it's climbing does that suggest there's something else faulty on here still confused what a fuse would have blown well look let's let's plug it in and see what it does i'm going to plug it in now okay right no sound no nothing let's hit the button at the side no [Music] nothing at all so does that suggestion the power supply is not given out the correct voltage i think it probably does no lights no nothing okay i'm just going to strip out the power board again i'm just going to check the fuse again fuse is still intact check the voltage at the big cap and there is none one volt so then i start examining the board closely i zoom right in and look throughout the whole board see if i can see any cold solar joints or any burnt components and then i come across this with that diode the lead on that diode looks a bit iffy but it's a strange place for it to go isn't it why would it go there unless that was happened that manufacturer all right so it's jumping across that break here this one let's just get our meter and see what's reading suggest that might be faulty i'm going to read them both ways the same reading both ways let's uh let's go to here yeah we have a short on that let's just see what the other ones are measuring no they're measuring the same as well see we've got some resistors in in parallel with them so what we're measuring there is the resistors aren't we yeah we're going to be measuring those resistors a bit well i suppose what we could do is what we could do is we could put 240 volts into it and just very carefully measure the circuit around so for example have we got 240 volts ac going into the bridge rectifier i'm pretty sure we are going to have do we have that will be the middle two do we have any dc coming out of that going into the cap you know do we have any voltage at the cap and that might give us an idea what's going on unless the massive cap has failed just looks perfect and this isn't old so let's get this set to ac to begin with now do not copy what you see in these videos i'm quite happy well not happy but i'm i'm willing to where to do this because i'm not going to be touching my hands i'm going to make sure that i'm not going to touch my hands here i haven't got any kids or anything running around the place jumping up on the table so uh i feel quite safe doing this otherwise i wouldn't do it but just because i feel relatively safe doing it it doesn't mean what i am doing is safe okay so we've got two 40 volts coming into this now so let's go to begin with on the middle two contacts off the bridge rectifier which are these four contacts for contacts down here right two four six volts one hundred percent we have ac going in there now let's go to dc and let's go on the outer two contacts 334 volts so that's right so that bridge rectifier is doing what it needs to do now let's go on to the capacitor this is the positive side here let's see what's happening at the capacitor so we do have voltage there yeah now let's go to these capacitors let's go on to tracks here three volts we've only got three volts there still three volts so we need to find out where that comes from three bolts there hmm they're getting any reading there so we definitely have 330 volts at that side of the transformer we haven't got anything there there's so many of you looking at the screen now and you know exactly what the problem is but i don't see we have voltage this side of the transformer but if the coils intact from here to here which multimeter suggests it is i think i might i need to do a bit of research on these uh on how a transformer works i know it's like a coil of wire and then it can lower the voltage down to the other side or it can step up as well step up the voltage but if i go to continuity here and if i go we know that it was this side but if i go onto this side here you can see that it is intact yet we're not getting any we're not getting any voltage that side hold on when i went from here to here ah so one second now how are so we have that there that's the shop where the voltage was there's nothing there uh but coming out there's only two paths coming out so as you can tell i'm massively struggling on this switch mode power supplies are very hard to fault find i try to watch youtube videos on them but they're complicated they work at a very high frequency they've got a feedback circuit something on the output can actually affect the input and that's what's throwing me because you see i have 330 volts on one side of the transformer and as far as i can see i've got nothing on the other side i've spent hours on this and i'm not getting anywhere it should be a failure video but for me because i've put so much time into this i really want to know what the problem is so i've done what i always do best and that is buy an identical one in order to try to fault fine between two of them so this one here is obviously 40. i've also bought another 41 on ebay for 50 uk pounds but with this one it's just got 40 wi-fi so that says to me that the actual power board should be okay now i know it would be great if i could just find this in its own right but i can't i i've tried and i can't i can't find out what is wrong with this power supply so rather than just say oh i can't fix it it's worth it to me to get another one and then the best case scenario is i might end up with two working speakers at the end rather than just have a failed speaker and a failed video so this next part of the video is when a couple of days later when the faulty one the second faulty one has arrived from ebay so this is the replacement one here looks in very good condition and when i plug in the power into the back it does light up here different colors i haven't connected it to any phone or anything but it's definitely power in it so i'm just going to get straight into taking it apart get the board out and then compare it to that one so i've got the replacement board out now there's no point in putting this in the the faulty one because look if you look here if i go across here and here you can see 18 volts so 100 now we know that it should be outputting 18 volts without any signal from the board or anything and that makes sense just unplug that because these two connectors here this is purely let me use this one because i know that this is the capacitors discharged these two connectors here aren't to feed anything into the board all they're doing is using this board as a means to let the user plug in what they need to plug in so this usb connection just travels straight down to this one here and this goes across to the board there's nothing clever here it's just using the pins here to the pins here it's the board which is actually processes in the other board which is processing the usb signal likewise this audio jack just goes from here travels down to here on this side so it's not actually doing anything this is nothing to do with this board here we could chop this off we could cut right through here and these two here would still work it's just a means of putting it on the same board on this side of the of the lower voltage so yeah what i'm going to do now is i'm just going to go across both of them with my multimeter see if i can see any difference and if i can i'll start filming again i found something now i should have paid more attention to my initial gut reaction to the fact that this diode had a little bit of damage on the top here now i don't know if you remember or not but when i went across here originally when i seen that the diodes were shorted and i thought okay that might be a problem but then i seen that there was resistors in parallel with them and i thought well it's shorted because of the resistors and i didn't really pay any more attention but check this out if well i'll tell you what let's just do it on the continuity just so you can hear the beeping so on the 40 board here can you see that i've got shorts here yeah yeah i haven't here yeah and now if i was to go to resistance you can see that between these two rails the ones that are all in parallel the resistors and the diodes if i go this way round i've got 33 000 ohms and if i go this way around i will also have 33 000 ohms because of the resistors but look here that's a direct short isn't it 0.3 of an ohm and if i was to go to diode test and if i was to go to this diode up here this is weird because this one up here you can see is a short but it's also a short on this one here both way around yeah but when i drop to the diode with the damage on it which is this one here when i go across here can you see i have a reading that way but i haven't got a reading that way because i don't think there's any resistors in parallel but look at the one with the damage on you see i have a short that way and a short that way yeah and when i touch the leaves together you can see it's the same reading so i think that diode's gone faulty that's the one i'm going to remove to begin with whether or not there's a fault on this one or whether this is somehow putting a fault down through to this rail but also when i go on diode mode here you can see there and there full short and when i go here you can see nothing there so i'm certain now that the problem is with the diodes in this area here so let me take out the burnt diode and see what it reads and then yeah i might have to take out uh another because there's what we got here we've got one diode there and one diode there so it might be these two or i'm wondering if it's just the burnt one here with the damage at the top right that's out let's see what's doing now okay so we still have a short here as well but uh oh hold on no it's still short in there hold on where else is joining those two who else has joined those two there that diode is not faulty read in that way reading that way always about to get more interesting okay let's take out take that diana out there that one right that diode is showing a short so let's see now has it gone between here and here no it's still there has it gone between here and here it's gone between there and there now so that one is showing faulty so that diode here must be faulty as well annoyingly i can't see any markings on that at all so unless it's on the good board i wouldn't know what that diode is oh hold on a minute it's not it's not a diode it's an inductor it says l down here okay so that's supposed to be test in short and that's why there's no uh well you think there'd still be markings on it but not that i can see all right let's undo this one here what do you reckon has it gone yay that one's gone yeah full shot that way and full shot that way now let's see what's happening here no no excellent yeah 33 ohms which is now the same as this one here 33 ohms so it looks like that one diode was responsible for uh for knocking it out so that one diode and the fuse and also the burnt thermistor ntc thermistor as well but it would still work with that i believe it's just probably going to put a lot of strain on the other components well let's have a look at this diode and see exactly what it is okay so this is what i need here i need a time delay 3.15 amp 250 fuse i need a thermistor sck-055 i believe is 5 ohm 5 amps so i need one of them and i need a tvs diode at p6ke200a diode so i've gone on to rs components and i believe i've got everything here annoyingly i do have to pay 4.95 postage unless i spend over 30 pounds and there's nothing else i need at the moment so i will have to pay that but if you have a look here this is my uni-directional tbs diode 600 watts and that's coming in for five of them at one pound 33 so they're 26 p each i think this is all excluding that here we've got the thermistor the thermistor is a 5 ohm one and it looks to be a very similar size and that's coming in at one pound 42 i'm getting two of them just to have one as spare so they're 71p each and lastly i've got my slow blow fuse down here 3.15 amp same size 250 volts and that's coming in for a pack of 10 at one pound 75 so you can see the components are very cheap in total i'm going to be spending 11 pound 34 most of that is on the delivery charge but remember i have got 10 fuses i've got two thermistors and also i've got five off the little tvs diodes whether i ever use them again or not i don't know but a lot of them come in the minimum pack and i do like having a few spares because i hate waiting on delivery for stuff like that so i'm going to order this up right now and i think to finish up the video i am going to just put the good components into the faulty one and that is pointless because i should just swap the board over but so it's not a swap so it is an actual fix i'm going to swap the components over and finish up the video hopefully with a working speaker well it's close enough to 18 i'm sure that is going to work [Music] now i'm going to uh pop this back into the speaker i'm just going to wait for it to the capacitor discharge put it back into the speaker and then i'll finish up the video hopefully if it work i'm not going to show you the reassembly because it's just the reverse of taking it apart and i need to kind of connect it up to an ipod or something like that to make sure it is actually working so i'll see you in a few seconds here we have it all back together and it's working perfectly i tried it via a line in by the 3.5 millimeter jack cable and it's working fine and right now it's connected via bluetooth to my phone down here so if i press play it's coming out here so with this one it has actually got some touch features on the top but it's to me it seems a little bit hard to use apart from volume up and volume down but if i tap it it should pause it and unpause it so here it goes i have to tap it quite hard on the little logo here there you go and then i put the video out there as a kind of part success part failure because got it working understood quite a bit about it which is good but at the same time couldn't get those things working i put it down to driver issues there you go so you can see it goes very loud years versions and i still couldn't get it to work so i just left that that released it there you go but you have to whack it quite hard you can do other things like swipe up and down to turn off the lights at the side here you can do next track and previous track by swiping left and right so yeah that's that one now on this one here wi-fi is working perfectly i just think that the person either didn't know how to do it or more than likely i couldn't find the app via android i could only find the app via ios and i typed in loads of different combinations of ministry of sound audio controller ministry of sound app nothing was coming up so i'm not sure if it even exists on android anymore but i managed to get it on ios and now this is actually connected via wi-fi because we've got the green light there and the green light specifies that it is silly green light connected to a wi-fi network and if you have a look here if i press play you can hear it's coming out there there we go yeah so once i change the components in that one it will be working fine and just to finish off the video it's a couple of days later my rs component order has arrived so i fitted a thermistor the fuse and also the tvs diode and now this one is working perfectly you can still see it's on wi-fi mode there and if i tap the top starts playing so there we go what an enjoyable fix it's a shame i couldn't fix it in its own right rather than having to buy a second one but that's my lack of knowledge but i nearly got there i pinpointed two of the three faulty components i really enjoyed that fault finding there and it was well worth spending the extra money to fix the first one because knowledge is gained along the way so that is it thank you so much for watching this video if you enjoyed it give it a big thumbs up take care everyone bubble gum fights on the third floor comedy specials headed [Music] wouldn't be big enough i did great [Music] and all of these moments they add up to something that feels so bad you know that i'm left with a dry throat i lose my head when you call me up and ask if i'm doing okay

Channel: My Mate VINCE

Views: 78,239

Keywords: Faulty Ministry of Sound Audio L Plus, Ministry of sound Audio L + not working, fault finding a power supply, fixing bluetooth speaker no power supply, fixing a wifi speaker, broken Ministry of sound speaker, learning electronics, fault finding electronics, fault finding and repair

Id: zMWJ37QR2N8

Length: 41min 48sec (2508 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 07 2021