No Dollar Wasted PC Build Guide

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This guy went through a LOT of extra work because of this case, I've felt really sorry for him, hehehe.

👍︎︎ 2 👤︎︎ u/brunomarquesbr 📅︎︎ May 04 2019 🗫︎ replies

no used parts

A lot of wasted dollars. If you don't need cutting edge performance, it's always better to buy used. Depressing as hell to see someone spend $500 and only get 4 cores, 8gb ram, and a 1gb gpu.

Great build otherwise. Glad to see him more in videos.

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/RADical-muslim 📅︎︎ May 04 2019 🗫︎ replies

Loading games from a hard drive? That's even worse than Linus suggesting a single stick of ram in another video.

👍︎︎ 1 👤︎︎ u/conquer69 📅︎︎ May 04 2019 🗫︎ replies
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hello welcome to tennis tech tips this is happening today I'm doing a pill guy that I invent a new thermal paste that I can actually use it to apply directly to the circuit let's see so you just do this very very gently and just put the CPU on you doing a build guide yeah I'm doing okay you know Linus said those were dead right you know Linus is dead right you sure you want to go with that one it's that antenna stick tubes okay near my near my eye I'll go I'll go but please subscribe if you want that mystic there's more hmm yeah okay I guess with Linus out of the picture everybody wants to get on in front of the camera but you know it has been over a year since our last PC build guide and I know you guys really want them the problem is that we have sponsors before but guess what - isn't here today I've got the company credit card and it's high time we fixed that so let's get cracking to build the best bang for buck 1440p 60 FPS gaming experience we can mustard without triggering the fraud alert he won't know him and once he's done freaking out of the statement he can think about saving money on his IT infrastructure with glass wire with glass wire you can instantly see your current and past network activity detect malware and block badly behaving apps in your PC or Android device use offer code Linus and get 25% off glass bar 2.0 at the link below [Music] now before we get our hands dirty we should first make sure that our hands are clean and Static free we can do the form with some soap but the latter will require being grounded now some veteran builders will tell you that if your environment is humid ESD isn't a great danger especially with today's thicker PCBs and protection circuitry and this is true to some extent so in a pinch simply touching something metallic that's got a path the ground regularly will do but if you're building a PC you're going to want to invest in an ESD solution now they aren't expensive and we don't recommend continuing without them when you do use any SD strap or ESD mat bear in mind that they must be connected to ground via an outlet or something metallic with a path to ground in order to be effective noticing a pattern it's all about the path to ground no ground then there's no ESD safety as for our other tools our handy-dandy multi bit screwdriver is our best friend we'll use this magnetic parts tray for screw management magnetic project mats also work great here and you can even use a pill sword at a pretty good effect that takes care of the pre-build prep and tools but for cable management and you are going to manage your cables right the most useful tools we have are velcro tines like these handy-dandy Linus tech tips brand ones a pair of side cutters like these and a handful of tweezers oh sorry I mean zip ties needle nose pliers can help when using these in tight spaces but you know they're not strictly necessary because as you'll see most of our zip ties are going to be quite accessible now as always it's a good idea to plug in all of your components for a dry run before you fully assemble your build now this is a good way to troubleshoot any issues that may arise such as an incompatibility or a DOA component so you use your motherboard box as a case it's non conductive and usually sturdy enough to handle the weight of the board cooler and GPU so if your machine powers on and transmits to the display you're ready to move on when it comes to CPUs we're spoiled for choice thanks to ambient Intel playing tit for tat over the last year or so for us the best value for our money is the rise in v 2600 9x from AMD which unlike Intel's price the core i5 eighty four hundred or ninety four hundred F can be overclocked it also has twice the number of threads which newer games like ApS legends can take full advantage of so with that in mind anybody steals the show at this price compared to their own previous gen Rison five 1600 X the 2600 is slightly faster on average thanks to precision boost - and typically has more overclocking Headroom for a price difference of just about six dollars retail to install the CPU lift up the retention arm on your motherboard line up the triangle on the chip which is right about there with the triangle on the motherboard and gently yeah there we go place it into the socket it should just drop in if the pins are aligned correctly so just visually make sure that the CPU is flush with the socket before pushing the retention arm down to lock it in place you may also join to gently press down on the chip while you do this to ensure it doesn't shift around but gravity really should do the job now our CPU comes with its own cooler and ease own wraith stealth and we'll be using it here to save money for more than a mild overclock we'll want to replace it but for now we can go ahead and install it by first removing these two plastic clips on the motherboard which helpfully just use standard Phillips head screws once that's done remove the coolers plastic shield covering the thermal compound if necessary this one just kind of fell off line up with the socket like so the thinner gauge here should go towards the top and then we just screw it into place where those plastic clips used to be now you don't want to immediately tighten these screws because if you do then it'll make screwing the other ones in more difficult for one and two you're gonna want to try and use an X pattern to evenly distribute the thermal compound here from here all we need to do is plug its fan cable into the CPU fan header on our motherboard like so and our CPU and cooler are now fully installed onto the memory now fast memory is something that Rison like me loves to chew on but because fast memory gets expensive quickly we're primarily focused on gaming performance there are diminishing returns at the time of writing G skills Agis ddr4 3000 16 gigabyte kit is the sweet spot based on lots of available as it's priced in around the brain you typically find 21 33 or 2,400 kits unfortunately since it was oh boy okay that's gonna make it in unfortunately since it was backordered when we went to buy it and we had to get the parts in time for this video we had to settle for this g.skill ripjaws 5 at a similar price if he wanted to grab a 30 200 megahertz kit though we'd be paying that rather $25 with a privilege for not much real world game if you've never installed ran before then good news it's super easy but there's one thing you want to keep in mind if you want to take advantage of dual channel and with rising you probably will you'll need to make sure that you install your memory in alternating slots so 2 & 4 just pull these tabs back line up the little notch on the memory with the notch in the slot and insert now you'll need to push down a little bit until you hear a little click and on the other side as well you'll take a little bit of force but not a whole lot you don't really need to worry about breaking anything but you might feel like you're putting too much force in so let's do that with the other stick and just visually inspect that we can't see the pins and that everything is flush now we've been plugging stuff into this thing but we haven't really gone over what it is yet we've gone with the asrock be 450m pro for an inexpensive micro ATX AMD motherboard with 4 Ram slots and crucially the ability to overclock our CPU now because the B 450 M pro 4 happens to have decent VRMs for power delivery we should be able to obtain reasonable results with our risin 5 2600 otherwise it's actually pretty unremarkable with no official support for SLI just crossfire and fine array of i/o that includes a VGA port DVI port and HDMI port that are only useful for an APU not for us now to be clear we could have gotten away with a $50 board instead of a $70 one if we didn't care about overclocking support but where's the fun in that we are going to use this guy we literally chose the cheapest case available okay fine I'll talk about it this is the rose well SRM 0/1 a micro ITX case that's about what you'd expect for its common sale price of twenty dollars difficult to open box for one doesn't weigh anything what is going on here so for $20 you get a case that weighs nothing with very data aesthetics it's got a single underside dust filter limited cable management a single front USB 3.0 port on the side with the rest be 2.0 this thing is not going to be easy or fun to build in but that's not the point of this build is it the point is to get the best bang for the buck and if it doesn't improve performance we're just going to have to live with it thankfully we do have thumb screws one thing that it does have is this drive tray and guess that is what it is so if we take out these two screws here one on the bottom and one towards the top like so haha it swings out of place so yeah we can get a GPU in here if you want to which we'll have to so this gives us all the room we'll need although just barely now before we move on we need to get the case ready to actually work in first we'll need to use these thumb screws to take off both side panels yes the rear one too and yes they actually gave us thumb screws on the rear with that done we'll remove the front panel so we need to grip this little slot down here and just pull outward there's no latch it should just pop right off and from here all we need to do is just pull these cables through gently they aren't held in with anything they're just rotted right through now there's not much in the way of cable management on this front panel there's nothing particularly special about it but it does have these screws with wide rims that hold everything into place so you're gonna want to take this one off next to the LEDs and that'll free them up but we don't want to remove them what we want to do is take these for the power and reset sway and route them down with them and from here we'll want to take the LED wires and pull them through here until they're about the same length and loop slack like that what we can do from here is replace that screw and that has all of our front panel connections at pretty much the perfect length to reach our motherboard as for the USB 2.0 front panel audio and USB 3.0 cables these are relatively easy to figure out what we can do is just push them through here and then out through this cable management port for the power supply can be a little bit tricky because these wires are thick but once we get it three fills out our front panel back through and close it back up should just snap on once you get the posts aligned and there we go so why did we go through the effort of doing that so doing it this way means that our cables have just enough slack go where they need to go without having any extraneous length that we need to deal with later on for cable management which will be a chore speaking of the motherboard we can't celebrate yet because we still need to install that and this is where we run into our first real problem with cheaping out on the case if we look in this baggie here there are actually only six brass standoffs included there are no other stand-ups and our motherboard has eight mount points that means we're going to have to choose where we need the most support so we need to determine where and this is why people don't like wearing ESD straps in this case it looks like we're going to need the most support in the top left the top right everything in the middle because that's where our GPU is gonna go and probably the bottom middle here where a front panel connects in and unfortunately that means the rest of it is going to have paying loose which means the bottom right here bottom left and the top-middle are gonna sag a little bit if you try to put any pressure on them so with that mapped out in the standoffs go now if you do decide to use a screwdriver for these be very careful because these are made of cheap brass and this is very thin steel it will strip and you're going to have a bad time better to just use your fingers to tighten them no I probably should do this with a screwdriver once we're done with that nonsense we won't forget our IO shield which snaps into place from the inside but we want to make sure that it's oriented correctly in this case the audio ports will be on the bottom now we can finally get our motherboard installed for realsies now a pro tip for anyone building in an older design case like this install your front panel connectors now while the motherboard is still outside the case this little lip down here is going to cause so many problems if you try to do it afterwards now you'll want to check your motherboards manual just to see where everything plugs in but typically the power switch is going to go into the top right the reset switch will go right beneath that and then hard drive power that'll go next to the reset switch to the left positive usually is to the left which I believe that's what the silkscreen says and we'll do the same for the power switch your power LED alright so with our front panel installed let's get our motherboard in so we'll get it down under here hold this out of the way so it doesn't get trapped underneath and line it up with our i/o shields so if we align this laterally you'll see the brass standoffs show through which will tell you that you have all your standoffs in the right positions so since we can see them we can count them to make sure we have them all in the right spots so we have one two three four five six so with the standoffs applied to the screw holes we'll take these fine threaded screws screw it down starting at the center keep everything aligned don't mind me I'm just gonna keep screwing these in for the rest of time yeah I don't duh this is such a pain do you remember how I said you should plug in the front panel before yeah yeah put the board in I forgot to put in these front panel connectors II oh yeah and then I forgot my own advice about lifting this stupid cable out of the way now let's get those screws back in okay that was a lot of work just to get the motherboard in but the fun's only just begun because we haven't gotten to the power supply yet just rethinking my life decisions right now anyway you might expect that we cheaped out on the power supply tube but it's actually quite important for a variety of reasons the most important of which being the longevity and stability of your computer's components for that reason we set a stipulation that the power supply we chose would be 80 plus bronze or better capable of 500 watts or higher continuous output and come with a five-year warranty at minimum the least expensive power supply that takes all of these boxes is the corsair CX 550 which given black of modular connections means our phase choice is about to take our proverbial bus because unlike most modern cases the SRM 0 1 from Rosewell mounts the power supply up top which means not only do we have the line it up manually but even though it does have a lip for the power supply to rest on we still need to hold it in place while we screw it in or it could fall I want to go home it's probably obvious but we can't actually get this power supply in here until we get these cables routed so let's do that this little hole in the back here is quite convenient for routing our power supply campus oh and by the way because this power supply mounts up here it acts as an exhaust that's actually what it's designed for back in the day so we're gonna want the pan on the bottom yeah so yeah I just got off screw it in then power supplies in so this mess is why we couldn't install the power supply lying flat and it's also why we couldn't install the global VPS connector while the motherboard was outside of the case like we normally recommend we could have maybe install the power supply first but that wouldn't really have made our lives much easier so let's go about routing these things shall we the MM ATX cable is pretty easy just go into this little hole here thankfully the 24 pin just has these extra 4 pins here it's the 20+4 ATX connector which helps in managing these cables just make sure they're clipped together and push it down until it clicks alright so now for the 12-volt EPS connector and that's gonna go through this little hole here once it's through snap it together then line it up which can be a little bit tricky thankfully we've got plenty of clearance so with it in slot push down until you hear the click now the next thing we're gonna want to do is pull all of the slack from inside the case to this side of the case and that will leave as little as possible for us to deal with on the inside we'll also probably never need these cables here at least not right now so we can push those back through if I had been thinking ahead I would have just not routed them through but yeah that's not what we're doing today so since we'll basically never hang these we can tie them off and leave them in this conveniently located five and a quarter inch Bay that will also never use because who owns an optical drive anymore so into this little drive bay these go and we never have to look at them again speaking of storage we chose the WD blue 250 gigabyte m2 module for its low profile and low cost now I know you can get cheaper SSDs but this was the cheapest that included that D Ram cache which is extremely important for performance as we've seen in the past now to install the module we're going had to find the m2 slot on the motherboard for our drive the problem is that the one in the center of the board here labeled ultra m2 is only for nvme meaning that our SATA SSD needs to go in the other slot which is conveniently located down at the bottom right of the board so we'll line up the notches on the end of the module with the key on the slot and it goes should go right in we won't see any more pins so we can then take this retaining screw screw it down and we're nice and secure you'll notice that it covers up the bottom middle motherboard screw which is why we didn't install it before now 250 gigabytes of solid-state storage isn't enough for everything we want to run on this machine I mean individual games commonly can be up to 50 gigabytes or larger these days I've seen some that are like closer to a hundred and that's why we've got this 2 terabyte Seagate Barracuda which critically is a 7200 rpm drive meaning that while it's more power-hungry than the slower 5400 rpm options we'll be loading our games more quickly plus since it's an older model it's just as cheap now we've got a couple of options for mounting the drive and neither are very good the first option is to just install it into the bottom of the five and quarter-inch Bay where the guide rail is provided but unless you have a long neck screw driver you're just not going to get a solid mount with that in mind we'll be mounting two this yes I am serious now the manual says to mount the drives here with their connectors facing the rear of the case like this but we'll get much cleaner cable management if we mount it like this with the connectors facing the front we can hide those cables through the front panel or via the five and a quarter inch bay in case you're wondering yes we could mount the drive or second drive to this bottom half here but that would interfere with our GPUs PCI Express connectors when we go to install them as you'll see speaking of connectors now it's time to cable manage this thing we've been kind of doing that the whole time but now that the drive is securely mounted it's time to tidy up the cabling in preparation for the GPU which will be the last thing that we install here and of course we need to get the drive wired up and yeah you know if I were thinking more clearly I probably would have done the cable management before the drive but since our velcro ties are actually too big for the loops that are provided here on the case oh go ahead and run these now and then cable management then afterwards just to tidy things up thankfully we only have the one that we need to run all I need this to be hanging out here either I'm not very good at this remember that SATA cable chain that we left out at this point this is where we need it going to cross it over like this with one of my handy-dandy tweezers clip this off or not there we go and now you've got just enough length here OOP that hurt to feed it down through this hole here it's a little difficult to see there we go as a bonus we can fish this up through that seen hole and we can send it out through here but that we can go back down here with the rest of the front panel cables and plug directly into the motherboard then we can close it back up now we have a fully connected drive with basically no mess so taking care not to cross over any cables we'll slide our USB 3.0 header into here and plug it directly into the board like so I kind of hate those connectors but we will have to pull the slack back out but gently because these connectors have a tendency to either break or pull loose with very little force so with that done now we can start tying these up now this step isn't terribly important but it's important to me flatten out a little bit all right so we need both of these but we only need one of them to have all of their connectors so we can tie one of these back just for the sake of neatness so we can fish both of these through here then I can tie this down like so now I need to figure out what to do with this guy that'll at least keep it in place more or less although I would really like another cable management point now one thing you might notice is that it actually isn't flush with the sides of the case but that's not actually a bad thing because our panel has this nice big bump on it which lets us just slide it on okay and the front looks pretty clean too which is a good thing because now we need to install our graphics card now our goal for this build is a 1440p 60 capable machine so for that we're turning to the geforce r-tx 20 70 gaming OC card from gigabyte it's about $12 or 3% more than the standard gaming card but it's cloth tick with 7% higher which means it's a trade-off worth making in the pursuit of absolute best price to performance at this budget anyway and yeah let's get this in to install our GPU we're first going to need to break off these tabs that come the PCI Express slots now this is a hallmark of Cheaper cases and nothing to be concerned about you can just gently stick a screwdriver in here like so to kind of get it out of position and then you can just kind of bend it up and down a few times like this and then just break right off now we already have most of ours free because I did do a test fit in this but for you guys you're going to have to pry these free so once the slots are free it's time for the main event now the first thing we should do is make sure that the tab on the back of the slot is in the down position it was already there but if it's up just push it down that will unlock the retention clip for our GPU which can go in like so now one more thing to note this case has basically no room back here install your PCI Express power connectors first before you do anything else now angling this in is a little bit tricky in a case like this but once you have it aligned all you need to do is give it a little press until you hear the click now what we need to do is screw in our retention screws now once you've tidied up the PCI Express cables and gotten everything nice and organized it's time to take a step back and admire your work it's been rough but we're almost done it's time to go ahead and slide the side panels back on and secure them into place with the thumb screws like so so now we'll plug everything in and wait the longest few seconds of our lives it's powered on [Music] bullet post Oh keyboard lit up okay as Rock helpfully as Rock shows you exactly which key to mash so we just mash delete or you can hit f2 now most of this stuff in the BIOS will probably want to leave it defaults for now but primarily what we want to do here is enable XMP which can be done by going over to the OC Tweaker then going down to XMP setting and choosing X and P 2.0 profile 1 and we should see that our Ram is now running at the proper speed which is great so we will go ahead and do Save Changes and exits all right looks like Windows is installed I won't go into the step-by-step on how to do that but for those of you who are stuck and do want to install Windows grab an 8 gigabyte or larger USB key and put it into another computer that's already running Windows from here you can download the media creation tool from Microsoft which can automatically set up a Windows installer on your USB key once that's done just plug it in reboot it should automatically start the Windows setup process and once that's done you should already have all of your drivers installed out-of-the-box but you'll want the latest Nvidia driver along with the AMD chipset driver which you can grab from their respective websites now as for how this thing performs well I've already loaded up the drive with a bunch of tools and games to test drive so let's give it from spinning jelly I guess ok yeah that's about what I'd expect Linus likes doom let's use a shadow the Tomb Raider and run the benchmark yeah that's pretty good high 60s 1440p highest up above 70 now it probably dropped down to like the low 60s at minimum yeah Wow ok that's actually more impressive than I thought it would be so there you have it an unassuming box well wired and filled with nothing but the best bang for buck components you can get for $1,000 or less absolutely no fluff this plate makes magnet mounted metal prints that are durable and don't require any power tools in order to hang them they've got over a quarter million different artworks spanning a bunch of different styles and influences and with their easy magnetic mounting there's no holes in the wall and you can easily replace them we plant ten trees for every display purchased and you can use code Ltd to save 15% through the link in the video description thanks for watching guys this video sucked you know what to do but it was awesome get subscribed hit that like button check out where the link to order buy some of the stuff we featured in the video description also linked in the description is our merch store which has cool shirts like of this one and our community forum which you should totally join also let me know you guys want to see more of us writers being in front of the camera more often or would you rather - or would you rather some kind of combination of the best of both worlds yeah we win Gladys is retiring forcibly
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Channel: undefined
Views: 5,172,541
Rating: 4.9320569 out of 5
Keywords: build, budget, $1000, build guide, how-to, parts, PC, computer, gaming, 1440p, RTX, AMD, GeForce, Ryzen, value, bang for buck
Id: zkiIW0Twj3U
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 30min 46sec (1846 seconds)
Published: Sat May 04 2019
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