NJ MVC New CDL Class A outside pre trip inspection

hi my name is Junior and I'm an instructor here for easy Wheels Driving School this video is to show you how to conduct the outside inspection for your exam at the DMV these changes have come this month in July July 10th was when they first started and this video will show you how to proceed and pass your tests in order for you to require your CDL Class A in this case so we uh after you do the inside and you do an external light check which is already considered a point for the test you would come outside and you will do certain things in order for you to continue to get the points required to pass they allow you to have a checklist like so you're allowed to bring this with you where you're not allowed to have as any markers on it okay so when you bring it to the DMV with you to take your test it has to be a clean sheet of paper like so you're allowed to Market as you go along during the test but it cannot have any markers prior so if you go down the list and you see front of the vehicle area you'll see that it has the lenses so in this scenario here we have our lenses that they're clear they're not cracked or damaged in any way they're secure our clearance lights are all proper color amber the lenses are not cracked or damaged and secure and same here again the headlights on this side the lenses are clear color clear not crack the damage in any way and so on then the next procedure would be it says fluid levels so you go and you will unlock the hood on both ends and then in order for you not to hurt yourself you put your foot on the bumper and you pull back it looks kind of heavy but it's actually extremely light just take your time so it doesn't slam and then you walk over to the side and you're going to identify the components okay now opening up the hood is kind of required if you do forget to do it and you decide to explain correctly and and point at the general direction they might accept it but it's more better always just to open it up it makes it easier for yourself because you can see the components and most some examples actually might require it's just like an optional thing I've heard some say that they they will someone won't but I think for the sake of your test you should always open it it doesn't do any harm so if we're going to do the fluids first where it says all fluid levels we'll start with the cooling Reservoir so my coolant reservoir is securely mounted I see that it's dry so no signs of any cracks or leaking all the hoses that connect to and from it are not rip cut or frayed and it's currently hot so I wouldn't open it because it might you know overflow now that being said just because I explained it in that way and I pointed that is enough you know you don't have to do it any much more than that and that's how the whole test will be you're just going to explain in detail what you're looking for and just have to point pretty much in that area if you could if you can see it then Point directly at it but if you're having trouble to see it as long as you're pointing exactly where more or less it will be and you explain it in detail you'll be fine so continuing on from there we have the power steering reservoir which is currently right here um it's at Max or adequate level it's uh not leaking not cracked not damaged all the hoses are connected to it are not rip cut or free they're not leaking and they have their clamps then you have your dipstick over here so if I was to check my dipstick I would pull it out wipe it clean reinsert it and make sure it's above the outline that will be required from there I could also check my air leaks or my air compressor by just listening and say I don't have any air lease coming from the air compressor all the hoses and lines that connect to it they're not ripped or torn or and or they're sealed correctly where it's not leaking or I don't hear any audible leaks so those will be mostly all the leaks you're looking for you would go you have the checklist where it says fluid uh levels then you can go with fluid levels and air leaks which I I actually can put it all together in one sum right there and then the next thing you go is for steering system so the steering system you probably will start from the power steering reservoir right so okay so my power steering reservoir is securely mounted I don't see anything wrong with it no kinds of leaks and so on and that hose right there connects to the next thing the next component for the power steering is the power steering gearbox my power steering gearbox is not missing any parts it's securely mounted to the frame all the nuts and bolts are present uh it's gear driven okay it has no belt um and all the holes that connect to it are also not rip cut or Freight or leaking the next piece that connects to the steering is called the pitman arm so my pitman arm is a solid piece of metal so you want to use no bends no dents no welding no excessive rust it has this upper connection secure with the mounting bolts there's no signs of Rush Trails on those and on the bottom connection it has a castle nut with a Cotter key in it or Cotter pin where it's nice and secure going along still we're doing the steering the next piece will be the drag link so you got the pitman arm and the drag link the drag link there's no bends no dents no welding no excessive rust front connection is secure with a castle nut and the Kata key and so is the rear so you're pretty much very repetitive when it comes to metal components finally if you look towards the back you'll see that you got the pimping on the drag link and you have a steering knuckle the steering knuckle again very repetitive no bends no dents no welding no rust has a castle nut and karaki another component for the steering is called the tie rod the tie rod is connects on both sides is that skinny Long Bar over there you just got to point that direction again repeat the same no bends no dents no welding no rust and it has this castle nut and cutter key that will conclude all the steering components that are required for that part of the test going along the list because that's what we're going to do we're going to follow the list because this is only what you need to pass these little boxes indicate points the next will be for the steering axle we're going to do the tires so we'll go to the tires and we'll say these tires are uh no Recaps these are original because they have to be original in the front uh no bubbles there's no cuts on the sidewall they must be 4 32nd of GrooVe you will have to use a measuring gauge to make sure it is the proper uh of thread you have to explain that as well so you don't have to bring the measuring you just have to say it has to be at least 100 pounds of pressure and you would say I would use a pressure gauge and stick it in the air stem to make sure it has at least 100 pounds of pressure that is the tire continuing on we go to the rim so the rim no bands no dents no welding no excessive rust because it's solid metal okay the next thing would be lug nuts my lug nuts are all present there's no rush Trails or shiny metals that will indicate that they're loose you will also add on to the axle nuts no brush drills or shiny Metals all present another indicate looseness and they're all present I would probably just mention the axle seal here as well since I'm here it has no signs of leaks no signs of damages continuing on now it says do Springs and airbags and shocks so in this cases we're doing the front right we're under that's the suspension we're going to do the leaf springs all right so leaf springs they're both present they're not scissored they're not missing they're not shifted they're securely mounted they're not crack that I don't want to say crack too much I want to say no banks no dance no welding no rust and it's securely mounted with the front mount the front mount again no banks no dense the welding no rush because it's solid metal and a security mounted to the frame all the mounting bolts are present and the mounting boats have no rush for the shiny Metals as well and then in the back of the leaf springs you're going to have the rear mounts right there securely mounted to the frame uh like I said just pointing in the general direction it's not like you have to actually go there and touch it launch your point to where it is and you say the right things which is no bench dense welding the rust securely mounted to the leaf springs on the bottom with the mounting both and securely mounted the frame with the mounting bolts as well no sign of the rusters shiny Metals you will get the point that you're looking for on this checklist here okay so that concluded and then it also says shock so we have a shock absorber right here shock absorber it's not leaking any hydraulic fluids it's securely mounted to the leaf springs on the bottom with the mounting bolts and on the upper connection securely mounted to the frame that should take off that box right there it says next to do brake lines and hoses and leaks so we're gonna go here you're gonna see this line right here this line connects to the brake chamber this brake line has uh no rips or tears I don't hear any audible leaks coming from the brake line it's securely mounted to the brake chamber the brake chamber is not missing any components any parts it has all those nuts and bolts I don't hear any air leaks coming from the brake chamber as well push rod and slack adjuster because you must check any brake contamination so we're going to do the whole brake system so push rod and slack adjuster not missing any parts if I was to check it I would release the brakes make sure it doesn't have an inch of play inside you have a brake lining with a drum that connects to the drum and you want to make sure there's no debris um there's no oil or any type of liquid in between or they were contaminated from not having friction and stopping correctly um as well the brake line should have at least a quarter of an inch material and it should it should like have any cracks inside of it or any type of damage and that actually will conclude uh the whole steering axle as when you're done with that then you go to the side of the truck and that's what it says right here currently side of the vehicle so we're going to walk along the side of the vehicle we're going to go by the checklist it says to check lenses and reflectors so this is the lens right here we have a side marker it's proper color amber it's not crack the damage it's in place you look on the side you make sure if you see any other lights uh maybe in the rear we have in this truck particularly we only have that one marker so that'll be fine if you do have any reflectors or any additional lights you want to point them out you want to check the lenses and you want to check the reflectors traffic monitoring devices traffic monitoring devices so we've got our mirrors and our convex mirrors you want to mention that they're not crack the damage they're securely mounted in any way if you have anything additional for checking the traffic besides your mirrors you know sometimes you have an additional Mirror On Top you mentioned that as well depending on the vehicle you're taking the test in next would be battery so the battery it's right here you just have to pretty much open up this little uh uh compartment and you would say if I was to check the battery I would unlock it open it up make sure I see that there's no corrosion or any battery acid dripping um that they're not the wires are connected or not ripped or torn or uh you know in any way damaged um and they're they're sealed correctly and then you would just say I would lock it back up and you don't check in the battery it's very simple you don't have to physically open it you just have to explain uh like I just like I did there now fuel tank is next so our fuel tank I don't see any leaks it's dry the whole tank um I don't see any holes the fuel cap is present if I was to check it I would open it make sure it has a chain with a with a rubber seal inside of it um the straps are securely mounted to the frame they're not cutting or ripped in any way the gas lines are also sealed I don't see any air uh excuse me I don't see any leaks they're dry they're not rip cut or Freight in any way and they're secure and then you will go also so this has a def um tank you can mention it you would say my DEF tank as well is now leaking I don't see any it's dry I don't see any time the damage or any holes it has also its cap all the lines are sealed correctly I don't see no no rips or tears or any type of leaking it's dry done with the fuel tanks at the bottom it says frames so we will go to the frame of the of the truck on the side of the truck in the rear my frame is not Bend bent or welded it's secure it's solid metal so it's pretty simple no excessive rust and you're pretty much done with that that's another point now combination vehicles only so this is definitely a combination vehicle we have a fifth wheel so we're going to start with our lines from both ends starting from the side the side of the truck I'm going to say my electrical wire is in the lock position it looks like it's it's fully in if I was to check it I would pull it out make sure nothing is stuck inside the prongs it depends they're not damaged or bent my and you would say the color that it is so in this case my electrical wire is green then I have my service line which is blue that's sealed correctly that sealed I don't hear any air leaks any other bullies coming from it no rip tear no rip uh no rib no cuts no phrase I don't hear any leaks and the emergency line is the red one so yield correctly I don't hear any audible leaks no real Cuts or phrase follow the lines through they're not touching any truck part um they're secured they're not Tangled these are my glass handles I would say if I was to check them I would open it make sure that the O-ring or the rubber seals are present not like bent or cut and then I would uh put them back nice and even so that I don't hear any audible leaks I would repeat the same thing for the service line I would say that I would check the glass by opening it make sure it's not missing the O-ring the the It's Not Bent or in a way damaged where it would leak in the air and then I would say I would connect it back nice and stirred nice and even where it wouldn't leak in the air and finally again the electrical wire on this end must be plugged in all the way uh the prawns cannot be um have anything in between inside of them and the pins cannot be damaged or bent in any way because that would affect the lights of the trailer to function okay done with that now we're gonna go uh we're still doing the coupling what you're doing the combination that's the first part now we're going to actually go to the fifth wheel itself over here so we're going to start with the apron right the apron has no holes there's no Gap or space between the apron and the fifth wheel itself with the skid plate my skid plate is a solid metal so no bends no dense no welding no rust and then securely mounted on top of the platform my platform is not missing any parts all the bolts are not to present it has a locking pin with a copter key in it the mounting balls are connected to the frame there's no rush for the shiny metals that were indicated they're loose and my release arm is in the full lock position which means it's in if it was out it would be release now you don't have to go underneath the trailer but you want to point in the general direction because you got to always think safety safety safety you don't want to uh get yourself in a position where something can happen like if you're coming out the vehicle you want to do the three-point contact and you and in this scenario you never really want to go underneath so I'm just going to cross down and point towards the direction over there where I would say my my Kim pin uh is is has its lock jaws around the cam pin so it's secure my Kim pin Is Not Bent in to welded or damaged in any way I have no space is well greased it's well lubricated uh all the all the components are there and on the missing or the mounting bolts are present they connect from the platform to the frame and uh the no rush or the shiny metals and that will conclude the fifth wheel compartment that should be more than you know at some point if you have enough points they might stop the test early if you want you to reach a certain amount of points I believe it's 22 is what you need but if they haven't stopped you that means that maybe you haven't reached the point so you're usually continue on until you go to the back I also want to mention that if you go to the rear of the trailer right and you realize oh wait I forgot to mention a component a steering component or a fluid level you just return back because you haven't finished the test yet and you tell them the part that you forgot but you won't be able to make up for it if you start talking about this tire in the back or this tire here everything has to be done with the front steering axle like it says here so if this is mentioning the front steering axle you must focus on that particular axle only so if you get something don't get nervous just go right back and then just you know turn on the parts you missed and they'll accept it okay so continuing on now that we finish with the combination of the vehicle we're going to go to the trailer it says trailer only so we're going to talk about the landing gear and the clearance so what it means about clearance is you want to make sure that when your truck is turning if the landing gear does not hit the actual truck um and then also you want to make sure that the clearance on the landing gear is that it's always fully raised while you're driving so in this case it is fully raised hot you will explain how it operates you would say if I wanted to operate it for whatever reason I take the crank handle and I would crank it all the way until it touches the ground fully that's how and then if I wanted to raise it I would Crank It by uh the way other way correctly all the way up until it's fully raised and you have to make sure that the crank handle itself is latched it's not hanging so that's that's just they want to make sure that you know how to operate the landing gear and then it has proper clearance and it's securely mounted to the frame and the support frame for the landing gear is no bends then so welding because it's solid metal you can add all of that just so you can get that point okay now reflective tape which is this right here it's a DLT tape right you want to say that it's more than 50 of the trailer it's proper color uh white and red uh you also have some more reflectors here so you want to mention all your reflectors like so you want to see these reflectors Amber this is yellow and they're in place and the lens is not cracked or damaged we're going to point out all of our clearance lights on the trailer so we have one there uh proper color amber not crack the damage we have a side marker down here as well my side marker here my lens is not crack the damage proper color amber and the top one is also not tractor damage proper color amber now note from up to the rear from the middle forward is always going to be Amber that's a must but once you get to the rear you'll notice that the color is red so make sure you don't get confused and you say uh amber to this this will always be red so my rear uh clearance light is purple color red the lenses are not crack the damage it's in place my reflectors also lenses are proper color red did not crack the damage in place as well says the clearest day it says to do the landing gear and the reflector tape and then the rear of the trailer lenses and reflectors so we just did all the lenses reflected now we're going to the very far back and all we got to do now is again keep pointing out our lenses and reflectors so we got our outside our our signal lights uh proper color red not crack the damage you can actually have you choose to have them working and on you can before you come out the truck you could just have turned them on wear your headlights it's fine doesn't really matter much but you would say the lenses are not crack the damage proper color red present same for the brake lights my brake lights are proper color red lenses are not crack the damage and in place reflectors proper color red not crack the damage and in place and my DOT tape is present it's proper color red and white my top clearance lights are all proper color red the nurses are not crack the damage in any way and if you look at the list you should be done by then you should have achieved the points that you're looking for it's a pretty simple test I guess you know they have decided to focus more on the Maneuvers which is I think it's the proper way uh because this is for safety you just want to do a little quick pre-trip before you on the road if you do see something wrong you wouldn't take the vehicle on the road but alongside of that the test is very focused now on the Maneuvers and the driving which is more realistic and I we all agree that that's more proper so that being said I hope this video helps all you guys I hope you guys decide to come see us we're the number one school here in uh in New Jersey we're easy Wheels we'll do one-on-one training we tend to retailer to your needs we're open seven days a week um you can look us up we're throughout the whole state from north to south and we're here for you guys you know um this part of the test uh hopefully I I was here easy Wheels help you pass this part and then we would like to help you with the rest to make you start your new career and I hope to see you guys all soon take care and on behalf of myself I wish you the best

Channel: EZWheels DrivingSchoolsNJ

Views: 44,138

Keywords: Truck driving school, CDL training, Professional truck driving, Road safety, Career opportunities, Expert instructors, State-of-the-art facilities, Hands-on experience, Job placement assistance, trucking career, commercial driver's license, trucking school, truck driving classes, experienced instructors, Professional truck driver, Hands-on training, Experienced instructors, Class A pre-trip inspection

Id: NMiq506rJhc

Length: 19min 59sec (1199 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 16 2023