New method of planking using progressive bevel planing

alright I'm back on Remora here this little Harry show of 12 and a half and I've started planking the starboard side I've got a couple planks on it already and I'm going to show you how I've accomplished it it's accomplished in a little different manner than most people would do it and I'm not going to use a pattern that divided runs so this plank is the same width as this plank the same width as every plank it's going to be seven equal width planks on it I've redefined this line at the top of the broad straight right here because it is basically in the position I want it to be in but it's a little bit wavy so these planks are staying on here the Goblet and the first broad straight and I'm going to strip these off and replant get our next move actually is to just wrap a new plank around here so that we can go inside and trace it that's the first thing we're going to do now we're inside room or here and you can see that this is the plank that I wrapped around and like I said it's up on top of this plank and up on top of this and what I'm going to do is trace the very bottom of the previous plank onto the back of that plank and that establishes the shape of the top of that plank and now we're after the bottom shape and I've already lined the framing off like I said in seven equal parts from the nails that I drove through in the magic line I've measured that with a metric tape and the reason why I use a metric tape is because it divides in a 10 system and it's very easy for me to pick up the division with a pair of dividers and then walk down the frame on the inside rather than the outside and establish my line off lines on the inside of the frame so what I'm going to do next I'm going to cut this plank on the top edge then I'm going to remove the plank that it slapped up on to here and then once it's fit to that top edge then I'm going to transfer the line off lines onto the bottom edge of the plank and then cut that now that we've removed the plank from the boat and set it on the bench we've put a spacer between it and the bench so that we could saw it without so on into the bench we've saw very close to the line but we haven't taken the line away the next step is to pick up a plane and lay it on its side on the bench so that it planes that top edge right to the line at 90 degrees so the top edge of that plank will be perfectly 90 degrees and we're going to split that pencil line right down the middle and the next thing we're going to do is remove the plank that's below the plank that we're going to install and we're going to scrape up the frames and remove the screws and get all that residual stuff off the outside of the frame and so our new plank will lay right tight against it now in order to get the bevel to match this plank I've designed a new system these are little spaces that I've designed here there are three quarters of an inch by 3/4 of an inch I've cut a little radius on one side so it lays against the frame and without teetering back and forth it was flat on the back it would Teta like this that's no good for me I want it to lay nice and flat on there and not move around I've drilled a hole in it put a little piece of this plastic coated wire through it so that I can put it on the frame and twist that wire up behind the frame and hold it right in position so they don't keep falling down on us now that little spacer is designed so that it spaces the plank out away from the frame and and a little bit maybe a quarter inch outside of the plank that's on there already and it's going to put this plank in the proper relativity to that plank so that I can slide a plane along this plank and plane the plank that I'm going to install to the proper bevel on the top edge so we pick up the spaces and wire them onto the frames in the right position get them on there nice and tight so that when we stretch the plank over them they don't move around too much and then we clamp the plank down nice and tight over it and now it's in the right position to clean the top edge to a progressive bevel that it's good enough I'd F we put a black magic marker line on the very top outboard edge of the plank that we're going to install the reason for that is is that when we start slip board indistinctive bevel it's going to be removing the material from the inboard edge of that plank and it's going to be cleaned until we start to see that black magic muscle line disappear in effect what we're doing is planing a progressively changing bevel on the top of the plank that we're going to install to match up to the 90 degree bevel that was sawn and play onto the plank above it all right it's going to almost disappear right now instead maka line starts to disappear we know we've planed all the way across that top surface of the plank and it's going to mate up to the plank above it perfectly the next thing we do is remove it rip off the spaces that we put on the framing and put the plank back into position now we're up inside the boat again and we're going to mock the line off lines that we've got on the frame and onto the back of the plank that would be represent the very bottom edge of the plank and then we're going to remove it again and saw that edge but that line has got two purposes one is that's the bottom edge of the plank it also tells us where to hollow it to we're going to hollow the plank after we take it down next time and cut the bottom edge and that should make the plank fit perfectly so we nail down a batten through the line lock lines that were put onto the backside of the plank and then draw a nice pencil line we cut along that pencil line afterwards freehand with a little skill soil even I felt a little bit of room and then we've taken plane it to 90 degrees using the slip board technique on the bench laying flat rather than being up on edge where it's very difficult to control the angle of the plane all right we're going to use two different planes to back this plank out back after it's got a lot more hollow in it so we use in this plane and you can see that this plane is very rounded on the bottom and what we're trying to do is get the inside of this plank to match up with the shape of the frames and then as I go forward I'm actually going to use this plane it's flat on the bottom but it has a rounded blade in it so it's easier to control than this one is no what's this you want to keep checking to see how much material you have taken out so you take a straightedge and you put it from one edge of the plank to the other and the light shines in under the straight edge and it's very simple to see what shape you flamed into it and where material has to be taken out where it doesn't maybe you're touching air and you can mock the high spot over here and pick up you're playing again and keep working on those high spots until you get a nice uniform shape and that shape might change from one end of the plank to the other because of the curvature of the frames themselves once the backin out is complete and checked will fasten the plank into position and go on using exactly the same technique on the rest of the planks on the starboard side

Channel: Tips from a Shipwright

Views: 334,902

Rating: 4.9377213 out of 5

Keywords: wooden, boat building, youtube, shipwright, marine, nautical, sailing, woodenboat herreshoff

Id: yIcRdMyOnnk

Length: 6min 54sec (414 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 20 2016

Reddit Comments

[u/TomServoHere]

The amount of work that goes into repairing one of these boats is amazing.

[u/PointlessTrivia]

That New England accent always reminds me of This Old House...

[u/bak4320]

Metric system FTW: "I've measured this section with a metric tape, and the reason I use a metric tape is because it works on the tens system, and it's very easy for me..."

[u/sk3pt1c]

Fascinating! So much knowledge :)

[u/[deleted]]

Those planes are sharp as hell. Very satisfying to wach

[u/MIDNIGHTZOMBIE]

"So here I took the bippity boop on the lay away line to make sure the flim flammerty doesn't go over the shibbity bop on the plank."

Hmmm, yes, "plank" indeed.

[u/HumboldtBlue]

Plank.

That man and I share a native language and yet there were a few stretches when he was speaking that he may as well have been speaking Urdu for all I understood.

Plank.

[u/BrokenMilkGlass]

And that's what mastery looks like...

[u/AlexFreire]

I have said that in a lot of this guy's videos, but I can't contain myself and say it again: this guy is not only a master of his craft like I never seen before, but he's really fucking clever.