NEW Leica Q3 (Part 2) Tutorial | All you need to know

welcome back to my channel for part two of my fully comprehensive tutorial on the new Leica Q3 and if you have not seen part 1 you can do so by clicking on the link which I will post Down Below in the info box so you can see what I covered in part one I covered already a lot of ground here in particular on drive mode on focusing where we have lots of options on exposure metering where we have four different settings here and so on exposure compensation ISO I stopped just before white balance which will be the first topic of this video and then in part three of my tutorial I will look into videography and will let you everything know you need to know to become a professional video shooter with a new Leica Q3 let's kick this off [Music] all right as I just said the first setting we are going to look into is white balance and that's on page number two just after auto ISO settings and there are a bunch of settings here the first one is Auto and if you're on auto mode the camera decides what the right white balance is and you see here how it's calibrating the color temperature for instance if I focus and meet a light on Jennifer's Body let's go quickly in the status screen let's see what we have I'm here in autofocus single spot metering and I have field autofocus which is exactly what I want and then you can go into the menu and can tweak this for instance you could go to cloudy and if I go back into the live mode you see this became a bit warmer here in the color you can also besides the other settings go into the menu and say you want to have here the color temperature tweak by yourself and if I go to the right hand side it becomes warmer you see this here and if I go from the 5000 where I was before to the left hand side the color temperature becomes colder and more bluish and that is something you can directly set if you want so if I confirm this here by pushing the center button then I have this temperature locked in and you can also access this from the status screen as I showed in part one of this video and you see here it's locked in at 5000k and then here you could also switch you could go back for instance to Auto and choose your settings in this way I'm not back in auto white balance let's quickly go to the status screen so you see here AWB and now let's go into an interesting option which is the gray card and if I do that and choose it then I get a little rectangle in the middle of the frame and this is the area where white balance is measured so let's first of all take a shot now from the color LEDs in the background which will change the white balance and you will see this in a moment so let's go up here here we have the color LEDs let's meet a white balance and in order to really meter it and lock it you need to press down the shutter release button so let's do this it will sound to you like shut all right that's it and let's now take an image of Jennifer with that locked white balance which we meeted on the color LEDs on the background here we go and now let's change this to Auto white balance so you see the difference let's go here to AWB and then the camera will decide what the right white balance is so let's take a shot of Jennifer and let's go into play mode to have a look at that so this is auto white balance and you see how it looks like and if I now switch to the image I shot with white balance locked at the background LEDs it looks like this and it has a bit of a green tint here do you see that let's go back this is auto white balance this is the metered white balance via the LEDs on the background wall and you clearly see the difference here this is the natural look this is a bit more of a green tint because nobody would meter white balance on background LEDs but in order to illustrate my point that came in nice and handy all right that's already all on white balance let's go into the menu again and let's continue so we will now go to photo file format but that we already discussed in tutorial number one so we can choose between dng dng and JPEG and jpeg so there is not more to say here and the dng resolution we also discussed already and all the different options we had in order of mixing jpeg plus dng jpeg dng on only than with different resolutions on JPEG and dng and we figured out in part one that there are 15 combinations which you also see when you go to the status screen and swipe along here the axis you see it's all in 15 different combinations I go here for L JPEG and ldng and we also have here jpeg settings and I will cover the Leica looks later because that is an interesting topic and needs to like a photocept and I want to introduce the Leica photos app first but you have here as mentioned in part one the maximum jpeg resolution you can tweak your noise reduction I typically have this on low but you could go for medium if you wanted you have film Styles these are filters standard Vivid natural black and white filter two of them and then you can also tweak your film style settings so let's go in that if I want to tweak Vivid for instance I get here menu and I can go here to contrast highlight Shadow and sharpness and if I choose for instance Shadow here I can then go to the value and set this for instance to Plus 2. or I can set it to -2 so this is very convenient to tweak and in this way you get a different look on your jpeg image I typically don't use that because it's something I do in post if I want to have this type of effects but it works very nice and if you're a JPEG shooter that is an option you should explore then we have intelligent dynamic range Leica looks as I said I cover later and here you can go on auto high standard low and off and I typically have this on auto leave it to the camera but what it does is it brings more details and a bit more light into the Shadows it's something you can also achieve in post in Lightroom for instance or capture one but if you want to have it straight away in your jpegs then you should go for that setting and maybe switch it to standard which is then an option which will help you or you leave it to the camera and the camera will detect other Shadows to dark and then the camera will do the job for you simple like that next we have scene mode and C mode is a big help for beginners because if you go into that you can choose first of all Auto and then the camera is deciding what scene are you trying to shoot so if for instance you're pointing the camera to fireworks the camera will recognize this you also have here the usual program aperture priority shutter speed priority and manual mode which is what I typically have here and then you have I think nine different scenes which you can tweak here so you have sports portrait landscape that three night portrait snow Beach fireworks that's six and then Candlelight Sunset and Diggy scoping that's all in nine different scenes and let's have a look what happens if I go to some of them let's go here to my standard mode which is program aperture priority shutter speed priority and manual mode and if I look into that I have currently let's go here to a fixed shutter speed let's say we have here one over 60 seconds let's also go to an ISO value of I have not programmed this here on my button because from my former tutorial this was an exposure compensation so let's go to ISO and then I have here ISO and then let's go to an ISO of 100 so you see now here fully manual mode ISO 100 F 1.7 and that is tweaked of course on the aperture ring of the lens and a shutter speed set by the shutter speed dial here on the top of the camera to 1 over 60 seconds now let's change the scene mode Let's see what happens and this can be nicely Illustrated let's go here for instance to portrait if I go to portrait and go back into live view then you see here that the camera switched from a manual eyes of 100 to an auto ISO of 125. the aperture setting is still the same it's F 1.7 but the shutter speed changed from 1 over 60 seconds which before I set up with my shutter speed dial here to 1 over 80 Seconds and by the way also the focusing mode changed to face and eye detection and you see that was clearly before not on the live view and not set up in the camera that just came from the scene mode if I now go back here and say My Scene mode should go back to where I was before I should get the former parameters and you see here it is ISO 100 F 1.7 1 over 60 seconds and field autofocus and not face detection and eye recognition just to make another example because I want to point out one more thing here which I think confirms that for beginners the scene mode is ingenious let's switch here to fireworks so let's go to scene and then on scene let's go down here to Fiverr and watch what happens now all of a sudden it did not only go to auto eyes or 100 and depending on how dark the scene is ISO can now climb up because we're on auto ISO it also changed the aperture from widest open F 1.7 to an F 8.0 and I didn't even touch the aperture ring on the lens that's all done by the camera it also switched from 1 over 60 seconds on exposure time to a long exposure of 4 seconds and most astonishingly you see that Jennifer is blurry and no longer sharp and that by half pressing the shutter button what I just do now here it's not focusing because the camera knows that fireworks need an Infinity focus and switched automatically onto manual focus and overrules everything I'm doing here by just setting the lens into Infinity Focus that is an ingenious feature for people who are not yet familiar with manual photography but want to have quick and nice results alright going to page number three now the next one is Optical image stabilization so here we have Auto and then we have off or on now here's something important to note first of all if you're on auto the camera knows based on the sensors in the camera whether you need the support by image stabilization and if you need it because you're shooting handhold with a comparably longer exposure the camera will switch on by itself the optical image stabilization which happens in the lens and will help you to get a reasonably good shot if you switch it off then the camera will not help you there will be no Optical image stabilization at all and that is the mode which saves you most of the power because if you have it on on it will consume a lot of power because Optical image stabilization means the camera is permanently reacting to any change you do in the way you hand hold your camera in the way you set up your shooting parameters and is always trying to compensate for any shakes and movements or vibrations of the camera and I recommend to have this on auto because this is the best setting if you have a compatibly fast shutter speed Optical image stabilization will not kick in if you have the camera on a tripod and by the sensors it realizes you don't have any shakes and vibrations it will not use and consume power the optic limit stabilization but if you need it if you want to shoot at 1 over 10 seconds for instance then the camera will recognize this and will help you with Optical image stabilization so I think being on auto here is the right thing having said that on a tripod I recommend to switch it off I never had any issues on auto when I did shoot like a q camera on the tripod but I think best practice is to switch it to off if you have the camera on a tripod the next setting is photo aspect ratio and you have here the full frame of the sensor three to two you have a four to three ratio a one on one which is a square and a cinematic aspect ratio which is 16 to 9 and I typically have to sell three to two I want to use also on my jpegs the full frame of the full frame sensor but whatever you set up here will affect jpegs only in the raw file you still have the full frame visible and you can still post process it and do not lose information so that is the setting I hardly use then we have perspective control is currently off if I switch it on I get some frame lines here and you see this best if I move a little bit with the camera you see them here and they are based on the internal sensors of the camera and help you to get a steady shot so let's see what happens here if I move here a little bit and focus on Jennifer let's take a shot and you will see how it automatically corrects the perspective let's go into play mode so this is the full scene let's go into play mode and you see it cut off part of the image basically cropped in but corrected for straight lines and not any Fallen lines and that is a really good feature it's the first time we see this on like a q camera it's not on the Leica Q2 it never found its way into the Leica Q2 but it's now here on the Leica Q3 and I have by the way a fully fledged tutorial on perspective control on the Leica SL2 and sl2s on my channel I'll link the video down below in the info box and you will see how ingenious Leica is solving their perspective control Problem by making sure that the information of where the frames are is stored in the dng so the raw file and then in Lightroom you basically can use this with a push of a button but you can also convert back to the image if there would be no perspective control it's a really good feature I recommend using it I use it very often on cities and architecture and as I said in that video which I will link Down Below in the box you will learn everything about that feature you need to know because it works exactly the same way on the Leica Q3 as it works on the Leica sa2 and sl2s next we have here shutter type and we have three settings here we have mechanical electronic shutter and hybrid now mechanical shutter will allow you to go for the long exposures and then as fast as 1 over 2 000 seconds and then this is end of story on the electronic shutter you can go long but you can also go as fast as 1 over 16 000 seconds and hybrid means that you have basically the camera deciding depending on shutter speed so in the range from long exposures until as fast as 1 over 2 000 seconds the camera will go for the mechanical shutter and if it gets faster between 1 over 2 000 seconds and one over sixteen thousand seconds the camera will switch automatically to electronic shutter hybrid is the setting I recommend and it's the setting I'm using all the time because you should use the mechanical shutter as as long as it is possible and then if you want to go faster then one over two thousand seconds if you're on hybrid the camera automatically switches to electronic shutter and enables that let's quickly try this out let's go to Mechanical shutter let's go into the status screen and let's tap on exposure time and then you see the markers on the very right hand side and that means you cannot go faster than one over two thousand seconds if you are on mechanical shutter let's go back into the menu and let's switch this sorry now I jump too far let's go back here now you go to hybrid and see what happens if I go back into the status screen still on the shutter speed dial I'm at 1 over 2 000 seconds in the status screen if I tap on exposure time the marker jumps from the very right hand side now more to the left hand side and now I can move it and can go faster and you see here this goes as I mentioned before as fast as 1 over 16 000 seconds you cover the same range of shutter speeds if you go for electronic only but that is a setting I don't recommend because the readout time of the Leica Q3 sensor is not fast enough to avoid rolling shutter effects under all circumstances so my recommendation here really is go for hybrid the camera will use the mechanical shot as long as it is possible and then when you want to go really fast it switches automatically to electronic shutter very easy to use and actually a really good setting flash settings is something I'm not going to cover in this video I will actually make a separate video on flash photography with the Leica Q3 because there's some nothing really interesting going on here which not many people are aware of so there will be a separate video on that and then we have a setting for exposure preview and that switches between pasm and PAs and that means if you're on live view and half pressing the shutter button you get here in program aperture priority and shutter speed priority a fully fledged preview of how the image looks like in terms of colors white balance exposure and what have you but if you have it on pasm it will also give you that preview in the fully manual mode and that's the setting you should have at all times coming now to page 4 we have auto review and auto review can be at off or you can set the timer one second preview of an image you have shot three seconds five seconds permanent or until the shutter button is pressed and I typically have this on permanent this is the setting I'm using so if I take a shot of Jennifer here then the image is staying on the display and I can tap in to zoom and so on until I leave it for instance pressing the shutter button or pushing a menu button or something else so permanent here is in my opinion the right setting then next we have long exposure noise reduction I have this typically on on but you can also switch it off and there are situations where you could actually decide for off let's say you take a series of night shots and whenever you take let's say a 30 or 60 seconds exposure as an illustrative example the camera will use the same time after your shot to do a dark frame subtraction in order to calculate out any hot pixels and any noise and that can be quite tedious in particular if you go longer let's say you shoot for two minutes and then you have to wait after each two minute exposure another two minutes for noise reduction and you can easily also remove noise in post and in these situations I actually go for off but my standard setting here is on the next group of settings is under the customized control and that's a really good feature because here you can customize the camera for your own personal workflow let's go into that and there are first of all favorites now what are favorites if I go here to the status screen and you see here that between the status screen and between the menu there's nothing in between so let's go there back here here's the status screen if I push the menu button again I come to page number one in the menu if I push it again it goes to page number two three four five six and so on but if you edit the favorites there will be an additional page between the status screen and the menu page number one which contains only elements where you want to have quick access so let's try this out let's go back into customize control let's go to edit favorites and now here we have a long list what we can choose to appear on that page between the status screen and the official menu page number one so let's say I want to have here interval shooting so I switch it on I want to have exposure bracketing and I also want to have here let's say oh that's a good one from tutorial number one autofocus tracking start position let's switch these three settings on and now if I go into the menu here the status screen is the first page to come up but the second screen marked here is an asterisk is actually the page where my favorites appear and you see we have exactly the ones here I have chosen before we have interval shooting we have exposure bracketing and we have autofocus tracking start position and then we have a very last one which takes me then to the main menu where I left it off which was on page four because I was customizing controls here simple like that let's go back into customized control so edit favorites be covered you switch on what you want to appear on that page between the status screen and the menu page number one then we have different function buttons and I showed this in tutorial part one that if you press and hold a customizable button like for instance this one here I press and hold I can select a function which will be assigned to that customizable button and currently it's toggling between photo and video mode so if I press that button once it targets into video mode if I press it again it toggles back into still image mode but the list here is very long and maybe a lot of these options you don't want to see here when you press and hold that customizable button to assign a function to that button and you can actually select what's appearing in that list I'm currently scrolling through in the menu where we just left customized controls so let's go in there and let's go back here and if I choose FN button 2 so you will find in the menu that the first button here is fn1 and the second button here is fn2 then I can toggle on and off what's appearing in that list I was just scrolling through and let's quickly do that so I want to have the photo video toggle functionality to potentially be assigned to button 2 and I also want to have here I don't want to have the levels I I don't want to have the digital Zoom I want to have these three here so Auto exposure lock and auto focus lock I want to not have the magnification so I toggle this off drive mode I don't need interval shooting I have under favorites exposure bracketing I have under favorites self timer I don't need here focusing I don't need here and so on I just deactivate everything else for a moment and then we go back into that function button and see what's on the list and you will see that the list is thinned out significantly what's missing here is one button which says switch everything off or switch everything on that would be clearly more convenient than scrolling through that list and doing that tedious routing work here but it is what it is all right almost done maybe I want to keep the like a photos app let's switch this on and format card I definitely don't need on a customizable button an acoustic signal I also don't need there okay let's go back into live view and if I now press shortly that button here it toggles between video mode and photo mode because that's a sign but if I press and hold you see that list is now thinned out and all the positions which we saw before are gone here and I have only the ones appearing here which are toggled on in that menu entry under customized controls before it's very easy and very simple and if we compare it if I press and hold here I have that very short list if I press and hold on function button number one it's still the long list because I have not customized yet in the menu what I want to appear there in terms of functions to be assigned to that button that's how it works and that's how you can customize it for your own personal workflow the next customization which works in exactly the same way is the center button and that's this one here and it works in exactly the same way if I currently press it very shortly it will go into magnification because that's what's assigned to this button and if I press it again it goes even closer if I press it again it goes back and then it zooms in again and then it goes back and if I want to get rid of it I just press the shutter release button very quickly so that's what's currently assigned but in the same way as on fn2 and fn1 I can press and hold and can assign a function and again you have this very long list and again you can go into the menu under customize control and let the camera know what you want to see here it's exactly the same procedure you can toggle on functions or you can toggle them off and then you can choose them later by press and hold and then we have another customizable button which has exactly the same functions and that's here under the thumb wheel button that's the button here on top of the rear control wheel and here we have the same situation as what I just demonstrated on the center button and fn2 and fn1 and then we have the wheel assignment which is this one here so I can turn this and here we can go for ISO exposure compensation Auto and off and I demonstrated this already when we spoke about exposure compensation in tutorial part one the next setting here in the menu is digital zoom and I covered this in detail in my intro video to the Leica Q3 I also showed to you that with the metadata the Leica Q3 tells Lightroom what crop you have applied here and the simulations are 28 deaths without a crop then 35 millimeter focal length 50 millimeter 70 and 90. the 90 is new on the Leica Q3 was not there on the Leica Q2 and Lightroom Knows by The metadata of the image what crop you have chosen and it will appear in that way even in the raw file but you can take it back and win back the original frame as I said I showed this in my intro video I will link the video down below in the info box so you can look this up if you want no need to speak about this any longer here the next feature is a very important one and that's user profiles and you see currently we have only one profile here which is the default profile and that's active and you can here store up to six different configurations for your camera which you can then recall very quickly if you need them so let's try this out I've now set up here one configuration and if we go into the status screen you see I have an aperture of f 1.7 I have shutter speed not auto shutter speed but fixed here of 1 over 250 seconds I have a fixed ISO value of 400 and I also want to have single here on autofocus and I think field autofocus is fine but on the metering side I would like to have spot let's say this is my configuration and I need this for a certain workflow when I take the camera out in the field now I can store this under user profile so let's have a look how it works so we go into the menu again into user profiles still we have only the default profile here and now let's go to manage profiles and then I can say my current configuration with all the parameters I just set can be stored as a profile and let's save this as user one you see there are six storage places here and then it asks me if I want to save this as user 1 I say yes and by the way if I go back here to the higher level I can also rename this so if I go here into user one I can give it a different name and could for instance say this is just call it use you know that's for the sake of Simplicity let's confirm this and then this has also a tailor-made name here namely use so I've stored this and now whenever I'm in the default profile or in some other profile let's go here I can choose to see let's go back to default and let's choose it then you see I'm now back in auto ISO and for instance on autofocus I'm back to intelligent autofocus I have here multi metering instead of spot metering what I had before and so on if I now want to quickly switch back to the configuration I stored before I go here to use and you see it also records the name I gave it in the menu a moment ago and now I'm in use and now we have ISO 400 we have here the spot metering as I said we have not iaf but autofocus single and we have all these parameters back which I set up before shutter speed of 1 over 250 seconds and so on so in this way you can store up to six configurations and you can recall them quickly via the status screen or again you customize the function button for that and then you can also access it via a mechanical button that's the way it works I think it's very useful if you get used to it you can store different configurations for instance one configuration for time lapses where you only want to shoot jpegs or for the night sky where you have long exposures and all these settings you need for that you can store in up to six configurations for quick access quite nice the next setting here is capture assistance let's go into that and we can choose here grid on or off if I choose on I get a grid overlay in my live view we can also switch it off again I can also have clipping and zebra which is a standard indication you see here when I have pressed the shutter button I get some areas where we have too much light where it's Overexposed I can go back here and switch this off again we can also have the level course or level meter and then we can see whether the tripod constellation with the camera is level metered here you see the green line at this point in time and we can have in addition to that also the histogram and we can also combine them if I switch both of them on they will both appear in the live view and you see here now if I now move my shutter speed dial for instance the histogram here in the upper left hand side corner will change you see how it's turning to the brighter side and here it's turning to the darker side is very simple Works in a nice way and these overlays are very often very useful if you can toggle them on and off here so that you have them when you need them and get the information about your exposure your level meter or what have you alright we are changing sites from page number four to page number five and here we have the play mode setup and here we can first of all say group display mode that is something very useful I'm going to demonstrate this in a moment you can also have in play mode clipping that means if you take a picture and you press the play button then you will see the same information about highlights being clipped as you just saw it under C brand clipping in live view and we also can show the histogram let's switch all of them off for a moment let's go here and let's take a picture and let's over expose it so let's go here to something very bright let's say 1 over 30 seconds we only see Jennifer the background is now heavily Overexposed let's take an image let's go into play mode and then we have this here let's double tap so you see Jennifer is here and now if I go into these overlays sorry let's go out in live view so we go here into play mode setup and we say we want to see the clipping let's switch it on if I go back into play mode it shows me the clipping you see that quite nice and it's actually very useful if you want to identify smaller areas in an image where you have over exposure and where you need to correct for the next shot quite useful let's go back here into live view and then into the setting let's switch this off you can also have the histogram or combinations of them let's switch this on if I go into play mode I get now my histogram here in the upper left hand side corner and you see how much this is skewed to the right hand side because the background behind the NFR is heavily Overexposed that's the way it works the setting I skipped now is group display mode and that's a very interesting one so I switched this off for the time being and if you're shooting a series of images for instance in continue shooting Burst Mode then all image will be grouped which belong to that particular sequence or if you shoot intervalometer images and everything in that series of shots in the sequence of shots will be grouped into one group and only the first image of that series will be displayed and you can manage them as a group and that is quite good because you need this from time to time otherwise it's sometimes very hard to manage a sequence of images for instance being shot in the intervalometer setting and we can try this out very quickly so let's go into drive mode and in drive mode Let's go to continue shooting let's say we have four frames per second it will be very boring because it's always just the ending for my beautiful model here and let me shoot that sequence and let's switch group off let's go here back into the menu let's say play mode setup this is off all right let's take a series of shots by continuously pressing the shutter release button I think that's enough the camera is still buffering here and writing the images to the SD card and if I go into play mode I have now that boring sequence here so we have image number one two three you see here the counter and they are all the same because I shot the same scene in burst mode and continue shooting you see that all right let's do the same thing now by switching group mode on let's go back into play mode and let's say this is on now so we repeat the sequence the buffer is empty by now so we have some Headroom here let's release it and let's give the camera some time to buffer if you're now going to play we have a different appearance instead of an image only and these frames from The Continuous burst shooting one after another we have now here play button we have another icon and there are certain things we can do so first of all we can play the sequence which is super boring because it's just Jennifer in front of us but you see here now the progress bar and I can now scroll between these 18 shots I've taken from frame number one in the group up to frame number 18. I can also convert these 18 frames into a video if I want and it says here create video and I can go for yes and do so if I want I don't want to do this at this point in time and if I go back into play I have here another symbol and that can be activated by using the control button down here so if I press that watch how the icon is changing it's changing from a group symbol of images to a single image and it shows me here that's frame number one then with the directional arrow on horizontal Direction I can scroll through these images and you see now I'm at frame number five and it goes to frame number 18 as we just saw in the sequence and that is how it works so there are lots of things you can do here it's very convenient to have them grouped and to deal with them as a group and as I said just frame number one will be the first frame you see instead of seeing all frames they are hidden behind that frame number one the next group of settings concerns the display and the electronic viewfinder evf if I go into that I have here under evf versus LCD several settings I can choose LCD only if I do that let's choose it then the sensor here which measures how close something gets to the electronic viewfinder is deactivated so if I approach this here nothing happens The View always stays on the LCD if I go here for electronic viewfinder only then the same would apply to the evf and my LCD would be deactivated I'm not doing it right now because otherwise I will have to lift up the camera to my eye then we have Auto and if we on auto the sensor V is activated so if my eye approaches the evf The View switches from the LCD to the evf if my eye goes away then the view switches back to the LCD and that is my standard setting here and then we have evf extended and that is an interesting setting let's go into that because now I'm in shooting mode and in shooting mode because I'm usually seeing here the live view but that is now gone and jumped from the LCD into the evf I have in shooting mode the evf activated but if I want to control something like play for instance then it switches back to the LCD or if I push the menu button it also switches back to the LCD and that's the way evf extended is working so we can easily deactivate this here again and go to my standard setting which is auto then we have the eye sensor sensitivity that can be low or high is self-explanatory we have LCD brightness we don't have to go into that LCD color adjustment and evf brightness and evf color adjustment and here we have the frame rate if you want to make sure that there is no lagging in the way you see things in the evf then go to 120 frames per seconds but be aware that this costs you a bit more battery Lifetime and you will have more consumption of power and I typically have this on 60 I think the evf with 60 frames per seconds is just good enough for me and that's all the settings you have here let's now talk about the Leica photos app and in order to make this tutorial an authentic experience I've again reset my Leica Q3 to factory settings and I also have a fresh smartphone here the Samsung Galaxy s23 Ultra which has never been connected to the Leica Q3 before and I want to show you how to connect this and how to use it and then I also want to look into the Leica looks which you can download via the photos app to your Leica Q3 so let's kick this off the first thing we need to do is we go into the menu on page number five which is here and then Leica photos and then we go into pair and that basically sets the camera into waiting state to connect with the smartphone let's go down here and let's press plus let's swipe to the Q cameras let's go here let's select the Q3 and then we say continue if we do it it says camera found like a Q3 we say connect and by the way the user experience is slightly different on the iPhone but it's almost the same so don't be worried if you understand it here you can also repeat that on the iPhone and you see it says here connection setup connecting to camera Wi-Fi we also see activity here on the camera LCD screen and with some luck we get disconnected wirelessly then it says camera edit on the smartphone we turn not on gear tagging but we could if you wanted to get GPS data into the metadata of images we see the gallery coming up here and we can now go to remote shooting and if I tap on that I get a representation of my live view on the LCD screen of the camera on my smartphone now I can for instance take a shot here but I can also toggle between video mode and you see how spot-on is reacting back to photo mode we have the self timer here we have all kinds of options here we can tweak white balance file format jpeg resolution exposure metering dng resolution and Leica looks I come to that later we can also leave the remote shooting application here and go into camera settings and then we go here and then we see for instance the firmware you can update the firmware via the Leica photos app on your iPhone or your Android phone you have all kinds of settings here and what I want to cover next next is Leica looks and for Leica looks if you go into the menu you go into jpeg settings and that is here and then we have here the Leica looks which is a new innovation from Leica and if you go into that it says please use Leica photos to download Leica looks okay let's do this the question is where can we do it here and if you're not familiar with the app it's very hard to figure this out so the place where you finally get the Leica looks is actually here with these icons if you tap on that you see here contemporary Classic Blue selenium and CPR so there are five of them and if I tap on contemporary for instance I can now download it by saying transfer to the Leica Q3 which happens instantly we can also go to classic transfer to the Leica Q3 that's good let's go to Blue let's transfer it good and then the last two ones is selenium and then we have here sepia let's go there and we transfer this to that's all so the Leica looks are now on the camera and if I now go in the menu into Leica looks I find them here contemporary Classic Blue selenium and sepia let's go back into live view and then we see how the appearance of the image changed here or let's go to classic for instance and let's have a look how this looks like a totally different look [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] these looks have been tailor-made calibrated by Leica experts in the headquarter so they are supposed to give you something special and clearly it's fun to play with them there is one confusing element with Leica looks and you see here that currently we are in Leica selenium so I've selected this in the menu let's quickly go there and you have here selenium and you can go to classic for instance then it's a different Leica look but how do you actually get out of that mode that your jpeg is again shown as a standard and not with a Leica look now it says Leica CLS here on the LCD screen and you do that by going back into jpeg settings and that is a bit unexpected what I'm going to show here you go actually to film style and then you say standard again and this overwrites then the Leica looks and now you see here standard and you are back to what you are used to see before you have the Leica looks loaded into your camera simple like that but not really intuitive after the Leica photos app we have format card that self-explanatory I'm not doing it now because I want to keep what's on the card we have camera information let's skip camera settings for the moment and there you get your firmware version my recent one is one one zero we also have some other informations like the MAC address license information copyright information that is currently off I typically have this on and then I can feed in here information and the artist so let's go into that let's delete everything I have here and let's say this is math photographer so let's try to do this from behind the camera not so easy but will work hopefully photo graph for okay see that was the mistake as I said from behind the camera not so easy it's a small keyboard but now you see this here and you can do the same on artist and then this will be written in the metadata and if someone steals your images and forgets to clean up the metadata you can prove that this is your image and you're the authoritative source for that image and for the art coming with that image so that's what happens here under copyright information and then it goes back to Firmware again and then the very last entries we have here language that's easy self-explanatory and here you can reset the camera which I did at the very beginning of this video and then the last one we need to discuss is camera settings and first of all you can edit the first letter of your file name and I typically have this on Queue because this is a q camera from Leica then you can reset your image numbering here I don't want to do it at this point in time you can also go into power saving and auto power off I typically have at the maximum namely 10 minutes I don't want the camera to go off all the time and then I need to wake it up and on display off I have it typically at five minutes which also the longest period you can set up here and then this is also done acoustic signal very simple self-explanatory volume between low and high electronic shutter sound I keep it off but if you switch it on you get some sound confirmation even under electronic shutter not as silent as you saw previously in the video and then autofocus confirmation is a good one typically here if I have pressed the shutter button and it focuses on Jennifer you see that the rectangle here turns green but I have no sound confirmation if I go back into this menu entry and go here into autofocus confirmation then it will give me a beep when Focus was found listen and now to also demonstrate this you can also tweak them here the volume if I go too high it will be a bit louder you hear but I find this not so nice so typically I have this off because I see in the green color that Focus has been found but it's a matter of taste of course what you set up here so let's switch this off and let's go back here then we have USB charging I always have this on on I typically charge my camera via the USBC Port I hardly use the external charger and then we have the USB mode and if you want to for instance connect your iPhone with the USBC and lightning cable to the camera here which is a standard procedure the cable is in the box then go under all circumstances for Apple mfi but there are other modes here for instance PTP mass storage if you want to transfer images and you can also get the camera to ask you when it realizes that a cable has been connected what you want to use so there are different options here and then we have Wi-Fi settings here I don't think I need to cover that because that's easy and we also spoke about that quickly when we looked into the Leica photos app date and time is clear and then pixel mapping is actually done automatically every two weeks but if you would have some hot pixels or stuck pixels somewhere in between you can do the pixel mapping menu really and if you confirm it then it asks you whether you really want to do it and then the camera does the procedure which it typically does every two weeks just a talk at this particular point in time all right that's it I think I covered now in part number one of my tutorial and part number two every single setting for still images and in part number three of my tutorial we'll swipe here switch into video mode and I will explain everything to you you might want to know or need to know for professional video shooting with the new Leica Q3 if you liked that video don't forget to drop me a thumbs up stay tuned on my channel there is always more to come thanks for watching stay safe and healthy and of course peace out

Channel: mathphotographer

Views: 22,097

Keywords: Leica Q3, Leica

Id: mzp4m0t2FE8

Length: 44min 54sec (2694 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 15 2023