New and Improved High Speed 3d Printers And Filaments

hi this is er Shapiro with make with tech I've been covering investigating reviewing 3D prins for about 5 years now and in the beginning when creal introduced the Ender 3 it revolutionized the ability for hobbyists for home users for small businesses to begin experimenting with 3D printers that were under $300 yet had good quality and with some work were able to produce consistent Prints but they were very slow in general you had to print at about 50 mm/ second that may meant that larger prints this is a vase that was not printed in vase mode would have taken five six hours or maybe more more to print over the last year something remarkable has happened you can now print large prints prints that would have been many hours in under an hour because there are a range of 3D printers now available that are marketed as printing at 250 to 500 mm/s that's as much as 10 times the published or generally usable speeds of an Ender three now in fact we're going to learn today that's not completely true but there are a variety of factors that influence print speed one of them that people may not think about a lot is filament so we're going to talk about all the factors a bit but then we're going to concentrate on a talking about a filament from same smart that's been produced specifically for high-speed printers that need a high flow rate of filament so stay tuned and let's learn something [Music] together [Music] now here at the make with tech organization we help makers users hobbyists learn new things and we like to learn those things interactively together so we have a YouTube channel you can go to forum. make.com and engage with thousands of other makers you can go to our website at make.com and read about technology and all we really ask is that you subscribe to the channel give us a thumbs up if you like the video and potentially click on some of our affiliate links that help support this channel now today we're going to talk about high-speed printers the printer I used for all of these examples today is the anchor make M5 which nowadays on Amazon you can purchase for as little as $360 it's a high-speed printer with an allmetal hot-end a direct extruder marketed as going up to 500 mm/ second and I will tell you it is very fast but let's dissect a bit about the components that are necessary what's necessary to print faster well the first thing you have to be able to do is physically you have to be able to move the print head potentially the print bed faster those surfaces are moved using stepper Motors so the stepper motors have to be sufficient quality that they can handle the higher speeds without breaking down you control a stepper motor which is called a stepper motor because it turns like a clock you know how the secondhand on a clock is not continuous it's step by step that's how stepper Motors work the electronics that controls those stepper Motors are integrated circuits or chips that are called stepper drivers the stepper drivers have to be able to control those Motors at very high speeds very precisely so we needed advances in stepper motor quality advances in stepp stepper drivers the next thing we needed is we needed the hot ends the Assembly of the heating element and the nozzle and the extruder that pulls the filament through and pushes it through the hot end they needed to be able to handle a higher flow rate what does that mean well as your printer is moving faster that means you have to extrude filament more quickly that means the volume of filament that you're going to push through that nozzle is a higher volume so the hardware the heating element in particular in many of these newer hot ends have to be able to heat a larger volume of filament more quickly the extruder needed to be able to feed that filament in more quickly which is one of the reasons many of these high-speed printers are direct extruders that means the mechanism that feeds the filament is right above the mechanism that melts the filament there's no tube no Bowden tube connecting the two together now in order to feed that filament more quickly at higher speed the filament has to be able to melt at precise temperature and then cool quickly because if it stays melted after it's laid down on the print bed for too long when you go to put the next layer on top it's just going to squish out spread out so it has to have a better tolerance for the point at which it melts and then the point at which it cools it has to also be a material aterial that flows very smoothly so all of these factors come into play but there's another factor that comes into play if you're moving that print head very quickly your printer is going to vibrate a lot more if it vibrates a lot more your print quality is going to be reduced you're going to see a phenomena called ghosting and individual layers of that print may not line up properly so you need to be able to address that that's addressed both in the firmware the software running in the printer but also in the slicers the newer slicers have to be able to handle the movements of the printer sending the G-Code the instructions to the firmware in such a way to minimize vibration in some higher-end devices today this does not include the anchor mate that I used for this printer you they actually take and add another computer onto the outside of the printer that computer is running a Raspberry Pi or another processor and offer running software called Clipper and the way that works to reduce vibration is they come with a little bit of a meter a device that you attach to the printer you run some tests moving the print head very rapidly you measure the actual vibrations because the vibrations will not only depend on the printer but depends on the table it's sitting on the best surface to print on is a concrete floor or table that doesn't vibrate at all but most of us print on tables that vibrate so the printer starts vibrating the table cable starts vibrating that set of vibrations can be measured by the sensor and used to calibrate so all of those things need to be taken into account to go from 50 mm/ second to potentially 500 now what about that 500 well in essence most of these high-speed printers are not printing at 500 they're doing travel moves that's moves where you're not extruding filament most of these higher speed printers are printing at about 250 maybe 300 mm/s as the top end for actual Extrusion that's still if we go back to what we discussed just a moment ago means you need to move a lot of filament well one company that is now producing filaments specifically for this new generation of high-speed printers ERS is called Sint smart and these sets of filaments are called the GT3 set of filaments they come in a number of different formulations these that were were sent to me by Sint smart at no cost so I could do this review are their matte style filaments that are really optimized to minimize your ability to see layer lines because one of the other tricks you use to print faster is you use use larger layer Heights instead of perhaps 2 mm you use. 24.25 or 28 millim in fact the anchor mate Studio which is a beta of a new slicer that's based on the source code from prusa this is a 0.25 mm layer height when you select the fast option all of these print prints were printed using the fast option now let's take a look at this filament this is I've opened a number of the colors they sent me a number of colors this is an unopened one it is interesting it comes in a cardboard box um that does not expressly say recyclable but has the feel of something that's recyclable it also has actually cardboard ends on the Reel of filament which is really quite nice because that is more recyclable it's sealed very very well there's no air in here there is um a material in here a silica gel to absorb moisture I found these filaments to be wound very very well um and they fed without any difficulty the other thing I noticed immediately is while they are 1.75 mm they're the standard size they feel let me take out one that's already open here for some reason to the hand they actually feel a little thicker perhaps it's because of the matte surface they are also quite a bit more flexible pla can get quite brittle in particular if you let the immunity go pla gets quite brittle brittle this seems quite a bit more flexible which would lead to um my belief that there are marketing that says that this filament is a bit stronger is accurate the other thing is that while this filament and let's make sure I get this right is indicated as 180 to 220° C it appears that at the glass transition temperature the temperature where it gets soft and starts melting based on their literature is quite a bit higher than a typical pla typical pla the glass transition temperature might be around 70 80° C this is listed as 140 that would mean that this P would be better for applications let's say something you're going to use in an automobile that can quite get quite warm it also appears that that higher glass transition temperature is one of the reasons that it works appropriately in high-speed printing because it won't start softening until a higher temperature and then when a line of filament is laid down it doesn't have to cool off as much in order to solidify so those are all the things that I read about in the market marketing literature let me show you what I actually found so I did some prints in hatchbox pla which is a pla I've gone to for years and works very reliably and then also in the new Sint smart highspeed high flow rate filament the one thing you will notice right away is the hatchbox pla the layer lines are more noticeable and I can tell you using other prints that I've printed in traditional pla at 0.25 mm layer Heights you see the layer lines the layer lines are very hard to see in this same smart filament the other thing I noticed and these were printed at 200° Celsius initially all of the prints I'll talk about the fact that I increased that in a moment on the hatchbox there is some very fine stringing inside there is no stringing on this filament but there's a place where there was an adhesion problem and a bit of drooping in a bridge I'll show you that in a closeup um I solv that problem by increasing the print temperature to about 210° C and you'll see that problem more in this next print now this is a vase but it was not printed in vase mode which is why you can see a seam very visible here and the reason is this top section will not print properly in vase mode in fact it's a little messy on this print and there's a section where the bridges fell apart I have printed this I didn't print it today but I have printed this in other filaments uh that did not occur I believe that's because I printed at 200° C because you'll see another print in a moment which is absolutely perfect that I printed at 210 and that did not occur what is very noticeable is this surface area is beautiful it's almost looks like an injection molded material because it's really so difficult to see the layer lines now if you run your thumbnail or your fingernail across it you can tell there are layer lines it is really a beautiful surface finish now the next thing I printed was this calibration CAD at 200% once again it's a beautiful print it's just really clean there is no stringing this one I did print at 210 Celsius um the detail is very nice layer lines are difficult to see there was one area here where there was a bridge that once again was not perfect um but everything else is really perfect on this print and I wanted to look at dimensional accuracy using this filament so let's see here this should be 40 mm this is 39.882556 dimensional accuracy is to print something where there are pieces that need to fit together this is a little uh screw on container you could use this to hold buttons or something else beautiful print and once again the thing that I noticed more than anything else is the surface quality using this filament is about the best I've seen now next I printed another print to check on on bridging and this is printed in hatchbox and the surfaces are a little bit rough it printed okay but the surfaces are a little rough this was printed at 210c using the same smart filament and it's gorgeous this is once again a gorgeous print and because you can't see the layer lines it looks like it was injection molded so I hope you learned something about high-speed printing today I enjoyed doing these experiments with a high-speed printer once again I used the anchor made m5c I'm a big fan of the two new anchormate printers because anchormate is trying to do something very pral likee by doing a tightly integrated set of devices firmware and software all manufacturers are moving in that direction creality starting to move in that direction but it seems that ankor makes industrial engineering they're the people make the battery for your phone they make headphones under the sound name they make cameras they make a wide range of things for a billion dollar company it seems their integration is a bit smoother likewise this filament from same smart is really a very maker friendly filament that will produce prints that I think you enjoy using functionally and as gifts thanks so much for watching if you liked it give me a thumbs up subscribe to the channel you can ask questions over at Forum thatmake tech.com have a great day and let's continue to learn things together

Channel: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)

Views: 4,283

Keywords: 3DPrinting, FDMPrinting, fdm printer, High Speed 3D printing, Ankermake, Ankermake M5, Ankermake M5C, Filament, 3d Printer Vibrations, 3d printing, fdm printing, fdm printing explained, fdm printing basics, ankermake m5c review, 3d printing vibration, 3d printer shaking, Glass Transition, glass transition temperature, 3d printer slicers, 3d printing general, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printer bed shaking, Sain Smart, Sain Smart Filament

Id: 1WLn3thdSKU

Length: 19min 36sec (1176 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 06 2023