It's a never ending story. Every year during the rainy season, Indra,
the god of rain and thunder, sends clouds
towards the region of Gurkha in Nepal. The monsoon is a symbol of prosperity and Indra, the god of all gods,
never does things by halves. Torrential rain crashes down
on the country. Far from the tourist traps, the roads and trails
of the mountain region become impassable and many villages are cut off
from the world for several months at a time. Krishna is perhaps the most important man
in this region. He's the only shopkeeper
within a 50 kilometer radius when he doesn't supply the goods,
everyone in the area suffers as a result. From now on, the roads
are completely waterlogged and driving becomes extremely difficult. We don't have a petrol station here. So for every vehicle, engine and generator
we rely on cans of petrol. We go to Gurkha to fill the cans
and then distribute them here. There you go, 1325 euros. Buy four cans of petrol
and five of diesel. By the time the driver gets back, 2000 litres of fuel will have been sold
over the course of the day. It must be said that the generators
are running at top speed here in Arquette. Even though the village has electricity,
there are often power cuts. The 3000 inhabitants of Arkhet
are counting on Rama, whilst Rama counts on his luck. The road is going to be sheer hell. Everyone taking it will get stuck
in the mud. Cars, tractors, buses,
I won't be the only one. This route from Arkhet to Gurkha
is just a tiny speck on the map, just 40 small kilometres
that Rama will have to endure through his sweat and exhaustion. Never complaining,
the Nepalese head on. They have a completely
different view of life. Come on guys, push!
-Push hard! Buddha, their karma, and the invisible world around them
guide them. When bad spirits pass through your body,
you die instantly. Doctors call it a heart attack. On these Nepalese roads most of the time,
mechanical horsepower is not much help. Four hooves are much better
than four tyres, but there's always a catch. In the face of danger, the animal can be
a little temperamental. The first time they take
the suspension bridge, they're frightened to death. The monsoon devastates the country,
but at the same time is a source of life. And without it, a large part of Nepal
would die of starvation. We're not planting this rice to sell,
it's barely enough to feed the family. I work hard just to survive,
not to earn money. According to the Nepalese,
nothing is important in this world. Suffering or not,
all that counts is wisdom. Rama, who is heading out
to get petrol in Gurkha, prefers to wait an hour or two
before hitting the road. Just a few hours
could make all the difference during monsoon season. This man carries the same name
as the god Ganesh and he's not far off from a god
in the eyes of his passengers. He's one of the only bus drivers
who's willing to travel during this time of the year. Ganesh my brother,
it's time to leave? And he even makes a point
of respecting the timetable. They now know their ETA, however,
is another matter altogether. This is Hanuma, he protects us. I burn incense in his honour
every morning. We have around 40 kilometres to travel. If we're doing this journey
in the dry season it takes four hours. During wet season, I never know
how long the journey can take. But sometimes, if we leave in the morning
we can potentially get there that evening. But it's equally as possible
to never get there at all. The road leading to Gurkha
is one of the poorest maintained in the country. Far away from many
of the nature reserves, that attract thousands of tourists, the Nepalese government
forgot about this road a long time ago. The locals have always maintained
the roads. However this year
the state has taken action. The road is improving. It's been a year since the roadworks
began, before it was a lot more dangerous. The army are building the roads,
but the money is coming from China. It is still unclear as
to when it will be finished. After passing the first few kilometres,
the old trail starts up again. The rain creates ruts,
when we drive into one, it's like that. The rain has completely
ruined this road. Aside from the shovels and pickaxes
that Ganesh brings along with him, he's missing one crucial element
to get out of these traps. So when he finds it,
he must bid farewell to morality. Suresh! Over there,
are those sand bags or gravel? Shall we steal two bags? The bus can skid on uphill slopes,
but thanks to sand we can get by. Stop chatting and hurry up,
I don't want to be caught. This petty theft
is not good for their karma. For Buddhists
who believe in reincarnation, good and bad actions
will affect their next life. Rama, the driver
who is buying fuel in Gurkha, finds himself a few kilometres
behind the bus and he's keen on keeping his good karma. He therefore transports
these passengers for free as they can't afford
a ticket on Ganesh's bus. Good for his karma, perhaps, but not for the passengers. It's the first time
I'm travelling like this, on the back of a truck
between petrol cans. Even if this road scares us,
what can we do? We have to get around. All the roads are in this state
around here. We have to take this route
to get to Kathmandu. The road is really falling apart. By the evening
my back is black and blue. Sink back a bit,
stretch out your leg. Watch your head! I'm going to hold on like this. Turn around to the other side
so you won't bang your head. Are you feeling a bit better now?
-Better? I'm nearly dead. Further down the road, Ganesh's bus is slowly pushing on. Despite the beautiful weather, the earth is hardly drying out. I've been a driver on this route
for ten years, before I was an assistant driver
for four years. So, 14 years altogether. It was a friend that taught me,
he let me drive his bus. I would start by driving
three or four kilometres, that's how I learned. I passed my driving test and one month later
I was behind the wheel. Every time he takes the wheel, Ganesh
repeats the same phrase by Buddha over and over again: "Wise is the one who faces adversity
with patience equal to his strength". On this journey,
Buddha's words take on their full meaning. The bus is now stuck, the tyres
are skidding and it can't get out. It's really shaking. Luckily I've got a hold of it. Rama and his passengers
end up catching up with Ganesh's bus. A bit further down
the bus is stuck in the mud. There are other vehicles stuck behind
and there's no way to overtake it. This emergency stop is neither to offend the passengers
on the truck nor Rama, who has his own ideas
when it comes to drive camaraderie. Not so good for his karma. First, I observe the situation. I make sure he's trying
to get himself out. There's no point trying to help,
before checking they can free themselves. It's not looking good,
but Ganesh and his assistant congratulate one another
for having stolen the sandbags from the side of the road. Even in Nepal,
underhanded games never prosper. It's a burst tyre. The tyre's exploded. We need to get the spare tyre out
and repair it. All good? Okay, let's go. I'm going to park there
and we can fix it. It's our last spare time. Did you manage to detach it? There's a part that's torn here. It's not surprising given
the state of the road. I must have rolled over a rock
and there you have it. This often happens to us,
at least once or twice a month. The tyres are really worn. With new ones, we wouldn't be
in this mess, comes with the job. The puncher made this restaurant happy
as all of the passengers rushed to it. It's not cold at all.
-There's been a power cut. The passengers are greeted
with warm drinks and tasty meals. For a small sum, Ganesh
and his assistant wolf down a dal, rice, lentils
and a few pieces of chicken in a very spicy sauce. In Nepal, it's traditional to eat
with your hands. I don't know how to eat with a spoon. It feels good to eat, I was hungry,
I'll take a nice little nap after. As a bus driver, Ganesh
earns 600 euros per month and Suresh makes half of that. They barely have enough to live on, but according to them, there's no reason to complain. I started working when I was a child, I like my work,
I don't want to anything else. We get to see the country, meet people,
wherever we go we eat well, like here. In the evening we drink good beer,
we earn our living, it's perfect. Making do with what one has. For Buddhists, one must accept that bad deeds
of a former life are paid for in the next. Jetty and her mother
break up rocks all day, an unrewarding,
yet necessary job. Their work is used
for repairing the roads. My mother is very old,
she's at least 80 years old. She's deaf, she always says to me: "What is the point in talking
when I can't hear the reply!" Our life revolves around breaking rocks
and carrying them on our backs. I dream of an easier life,
but alas that's not possible where I am. It cuts my fingers. Fragments go into your eyes. It takes a long time! We have to collect them into a pile,
carry them, break them and then smash them into tiny pieces. It's hard work, but we couldn't feed
ourselves if we didn't work so hard. it took us a month to break up all
these rocks, and we'll get paid 60 euros. A meager sum in comparison
with the work that goes into it. But it allows Jetty
to live comfortably with her three children
and her disabled husband. I love having my little cigarette break. Jetty and her family's life
becomes even more complicated during monsoon season. When it rains, I can't work
as much as I'd like to. The rain is too heavy. I'm in a lot of pain, here, here
and again here. An then I have a really bad headache. Sometimes I feel like I'm dead! The showers never last long,
but long enough to ruin everything. Ganesh's bus may no longer be new,
but it's still sturdy. Unlike this new 4x4,
which finds itself immobilized in the middle of the road. The car over there,
the odds are that it will get stuck. I stopped to assess the situation,
to see how to get past. The driver just
can't seem to get out. Ganesh suggests taking the wheel. We need to shake the car. Shake it on both sides. Nothing is happening. The two ton vehicle stays where it is,
no matter who's driving. The sun is beating down. It's 40 degrees. Two hours later,
they've marked out a plan of action. No vehicle on this road drives
over four kilometres an hour on average. Some even leave their trucks behind because the truck, that's supposed
to save them, also gets into trouble. After 40 kilometres of effort
and 12 tiring hours, Ganesh's bus arrives
in the symbolic town of Gurkha. Its Maharaja unites
all the different regions to give birth to modern Nepal. However, for Ganesh and his passengers,
modernity is still a myth. Tomorrow we'll head back,
we'll take the same route and it will be the same as today. Fifteen minutes after the bus
Rama arrives at the entrance of the town. Everyone congratulates one another
for making it in one piece. Thank you so much, my son,
may you have a long and happy life. Unlike Ganesh, Rama
barely has time to catch his breath. The village is counting on him
to quickly return with the fuel for the generators. We're finishing up filling up
the jerry cans, then we'll head back to Arkhet. We need to be quick
as it'll be night soon. I feel like it's going to rain. Rama earns 30 euros per journey, a measly salary
for 24 hours of driving. Rama arrived back in Arkhet
the next morning. His passengers
also continued their journey. They all headed to a small village
with a great power. This annual celebration
brings luck and happiness for the rest of the year. Since the earthquake
that destroyed the country in 2015, the Nepalese never miss
the bracelet ceremony. I'm putting this sacred thread
around your wrist, the one used to bind together
the most powerful... and most generous of the Bali kings,
it will protect you forever. Today we celebrate the "Rakhi" holiday
of sacred bracelets, to receive protection from the gods. You don't have a red thread?
-No, there's no more red. According to tradition
the sacred thread protects us. The shaman celebration
is also very important. They only perform their sacred dance
one a year, and it's today. At the same time as the bracelet,
the tilak is placed in the middle of the forehead. It represents the third eye
of the goddess Shiva and symbolizes the rising sun. During the process,
the priest adds a few grains of rice in order to feed the spirts. According to the shamans,
this protection is crucial as there has been an outbreak
of attacks from bad spirits ever since the earthquake
that caused 8000 deaths. There are always visitors
to Shaman Santa Bahadur Hut. There are ghosts,
they can throw curses on us. And the doctors can do nothing about them,
the Shamans however can. When bad spirits pass through the body,
we die instantly. The doctors call it a heart attack. But if the bad spirits just brush past you
you are only paralyzed. In cases of serious illness, like cancer,
I can't do anything, then you must see a doctor. The villagers pay the shaman
in whatever way they can. She has fever, she's coughing,
maybe it's only the flu. If it's an illness caused
by the village spirits... ...there's a risk it will get worse
if I bring her straight to the doctor. You should always do at least one or two
ceremonies with the Shaman before. The people only see it as rice
on the ground but as a Shaman I use this
to feed the spirits. It's like I'm placing it directly
into their mouths. Satisfied the bad spirits have flown away. The monsoon grows stronger with each day. In a short while,
it will be at its strongest more than 300 litres of water
per metre squared in one month. A tidal wave from the sky. The villages on top of the mountain
will soon be inaccessible. A journey is being planned
against the rain in order to restock. Boss, the order. Where is it from?
-From the grocery store in Mangbo. Oil,
oil, gas. Corrugated iron, noodles, rice. Eggs, soap, cement. You're going to load all that. The sheets of iron
from the roof from houses are not very resistant to strong winds. The iron sheets give me a headache,
that's why I have the helmet on. Above all, they brighten up daily life
during these long months cut off from the world. Go ahead slowly,
if it breaks, it's us who'll pay for it. At 18 years old, Maella is the youngest driver
in the region. Pass the green boxes first. In my work you need to be strong,
you also have to use your head, be smart. Strength isn't enough, when it's tough
you have to think really hard. Sometimes I get frustrated
that I'm not doing something else. I'm tired, I'm bored,
but hey, you have to work hard. Only five trucks are available
to go to Mangbo, 20 kilometres further up. A small distance
that has nonetheless destroyed many trucks in the past. So the villagers have called
upon another means of transport, which so far has a 100% success rate. Every day, several trailers full of mules
like this one unite to take on the mountain. Tonight it's going to rain. I need to hurry up to transport the goods,
if not they'll get wet. Once the road is wet, it's really slippy and there's a risk the load
will get damaged In this bag there's bars of soap
to wash clothes. Over there are biscuits,
and I'm going to take it all up there. The mules carry 30 kilos of sugar
used for drinking tea on each side. 600 kilograms
of equipment and food to carry for 8 hours up steep paths. Many of the mules are uncooperative. Some even escape. For a few rupees,
this young man brings them back on the right track. How are you, my sister-in-law? Why are you running around at your age?
-That's life. Namasté my brother. I'm in a bit of a hurry,
we'll catch up later. Where are you going? Right to the top. The race between the mules
and the trucks begins. The route taken by the driver
seems more suited to mules. Maella isn't passing
15 kilometres an hour. I take this road often,
every time I wonder: "What will happen to us this time?" Because of past experience,
I'm very careful with my truck. I listen to it carefully, how it behaves,
if it makes an unusual noise. I'm always thinking about
the vehicle whilst driving. I fear the rain the most. I'm scared we'll slip on the ground,
or end up completely stuck. There are also falling rocks
that can damage the truck. Maella travels with Shubba,
his 14 years old assistant. He's learning the trade, but he must put
his heart and soul into it. There's no time for slackers. Put rocks on it,
this road is crumbling. Who told you to take out this rock? What changes if I leave it? If you remove it, there's a risk
the truck could tumble down the slope. Don't stop, add more. Put some everywhere,
you need to be more vigilant. Look at this work. It's hopeless! Come on, hurry up. I'm happy to work with Maella. We're from the same village
and he knows me well. He doesn't make me work too hard
and he doesn't hit me. Shubba was staying at home all day
doing nothing. I suggested he come and work with me,
that way he's learning the trade. The first time I was in the truck
I was worried. I wondered why it was shaking so much. Now I'm used to it and I really like it. At the village entrance two truck drivers
await Maella like he is the Messiah. When there's a serious problem, the drivers trust his skill alone
to solve it. I'm waiting for Maella to come and tow me because my truck is
in the middle of the road. The road is so bad
that I broke the axle. While Maella is saving his friend on the other side of the mountain, Sucre and his mules
are making progress, slowly but surely. It's the mule setting the pace
of this journey, not Sukkar. The mule's endurance is only equal
to the reputation of the men of this region, The Gurkhas,
fearless and hardworking men. Since the middle of the 19th century,
the British Army recognised the value
of these mountain dwellers. They created an elite unit
composed only of Gurkhas. To this day,
these commandos are being sent on the trickiest missions. Sukkar is no longer
a soldier but he's still fighting every day. Yes, it's hard work,
but I have no choice. I have three daughters,
I need to raise and educate them. Buy school supplies,
I need to eat morning and night. The soil in my village is poor
and I can't grow much from it. With the money I earn I can feed
my family and raise my kids. Before each journey,
Sukkar prays to the gods that one of his mules
doesn't have a bad fall. Crossing the suspended bridge
is always a cause for concern. The first time they took
the suspension bridge, they were frightened to death. But after two or three trips across it,
they got used to it. Unfortunately it's not unusual for them
to fear for their lives. Ever since the earthquake,
the mountain has been swarming with porters,
the villagers who can't afford to pay for a lorry or mule. The mules carry cargo on their backs, cargo that enables the villagers
to rebuild their lives. The cupboard is too big to transport
on a mule's back. My house was destroyed
in the earthquake. When I ran out of the houses
the door crushed me. I was injured on my back and head. I stayed in hospital for 45 days
with multiple fractures. Now I struggle to carry heavy things. Back with the truck drivers,
Maella still hasn't reached his friend, who's broken down. After 5 hours, he still trundling
along this rain drenched road painfully slowly. The wheel dances and slides
in the red earth. Take out more sand. The broken down truck
is just after this slope. This lady seems to be enjoying all
of his trouble. The show is far from over
from her. We drivers help each other out,
it's natural. Tomorrow I might find myself
in the same situation. We give each other a hand
and don't ask our bosses. The cable is broke, I went back down
and it's broken again. Maella has to abandon his friend. He must deliver his goods
before night falls. He'll come back to find him later if he himself
doesn't end up stuck on the road. There's still ten kilometres
left until Mangbo village. Sukkar and his tireless troupe of mules
have just reached the grocery store after five hours of walking. I work every day. I only give myself three or four days off
each month. It's important to resupply the villages. Today I earned 31 euros. Contrary to the villagers,
the only misfortune Sukkar might one day experience
is the road being laid with tar. Maella arrives long after the mule driver. The village is now supplied
for most of the monsoon season. Admir is the owner
of this colourful store, the only shop on this side
of the mountain. So here,
there are shoes and sandals. Over there I've got fancy dresses. There, stationary for students. Noodle, soda, biscuits,
cigarettes, beer, chewing gum. Do you everything in your store? Yes, sir, I've got everything. I need to go to Arkhet to get
most of the products. We only produce corn and wheat
in the village. We don't have the right soil
to grow rice. Without truck deliveries,
I would have to go to Arkhet. To get there it takes me two days,
one to get there and one to get back. Maella kept his word
and has come back for his friend Ashok. But this time he's brought
a rope to tow him. This latest defeat leaves the men
with only one option: take out the stones, one by one,
to make the road as smooth as possible. It will take them the whole evening
to get the truck back to the village. Maella doesn't really have
the time to relax. The arrival of the monsoon
means heading back to the field, or rather the paddy. The young driver has traded
the steering wheel for the handles of the plough. It's a lot more tiring to work
on the field than drive the truck. It's harder to manipulate
a plough than turn a wheel. The rice we're planting isn't to sell,
it's just enough to feed the family. I work hard just to survive,
not to earn money. Uncle, auntie, brother, cousin. Nobody gets out of the family chores. Here I'm pulling out the rice plants. And then I'll give them to my mother
and sister who will replant them. You don't want to go and plant them?
-No, I don't want to. Why? I just don't want to, that's all. Maella's mother
had other hopes for her son, but when he was 16 she had to put him to work. I would have liked him to have a good job,
being a driver is hard work. Even though I didn't go to school,
I tried to educate my children. But just working the land,
how can I pay for their studies? I would also like to study
to get another job, like a primary school teacher,
that would be nice. She could leave here,
each to their karma. The dream for Maella and his family
is to improve their karma, to ensure prosperity in their next life.
