My Top Ten Tips For Starting A Retinoid | Dr Sam Bunting

hi guys welcome back to Sam here helping you get closer to great skin so today I wanted to show you how I apply my retinoid and give you some sneaky insider tips to getting the most out of this essential skincare ingredient let's get started so it's night time which is when I always use a retinoid and I'm cleansed now what I do next will depend for you guys on where you're at with your retinoids so let's consider the scenario one you've never used one before this is your first time you're feeling a little bit nervous maybe I know there's a lot of you who experience anxiety when they think about rats in the woods and either that's more Facebook group needs a little survey so the way I suggest you going gently is to first think about moisturizing before you do your retinoid it's called buffering and I think that there is absolutely no harm in starting in a way that does almost nothing because I think it's through regular usage you build confidence and if you remember this is not a sprint it's a marathon it's about the long term there's no rush to do everything immediately so I would start off with moisturizing after cleansing and I'm going to use dr. Sam solace moisturizer because it contains niacin and like the reason for including us in my in my moisturizer was to help those starting retinoids it is niacinamide is a great ingredient for helping you reduce the irritancy of retinoids because it increases ceramide content in the skin making your barrier that a little bit or robust so I'm gonna moisturize all over I'm going to use two pumps 13 dot technique as you guys know and what's really important here is that I take care of areas that might be extra prone to irritancy now today I'm not going to do my neck and decolletage I can see where that advanced level retinoid use and my patients will know that so what it's key when you're starting is that you get confident so let's just focus on the thicker more tolerant areas of the face in the first instance so I've done like 13 dots I'm gonna rub it in and what's really key is that eye barrier off areas that are prone to trouble so that means the thin skin around the eyes it means collecting in crevices now if any of you have little lives or wrinkles nasal labial marionette waves you want to be very careful because you don't want product to accumulate and even your tiniest amount extra well the retina is sitting in those creases overnight it can make you more prone to redness than irritancy so as I said I'm not paying attention to my neck today just take my faith now if I was extra cautious and maybe naturally prone to dry skin around my eyes anyway I would do an extra bit of moisturizer around my eyes it's what I call moisturizer goggles swish oh he sounds slightly absurd but that means you're more likely to remember it and I would literally have moisturizers sitting on the surface because the thing is no matter how precisely you apply your retinoid products tend to creep and that means that when you're lying in your pillow and maybe you're smashing your face you know shouldn't lie on your side but if you do it can just encourage product to track a little bit into that thinner inner part of the eye and the other thing is sometimes you just like so don't be swipe the eye area when you're applying the rest knowing you get retinoid on your eye it makes things dry and peely or I was just a bit dry or underneath which makes your wrinkles look worse and then you start to worry that actually the retinoid is doing more harm than good so moisturizer goggles if you're really worried about your eye area moisturizers are all over and if you have you know a little bit of extra moisturizer I put it in the creases of the nose another area where point can tend to settle and irritate check out those little areas where fine lines and wrinkles might be and then let it all soak in give yourself good 5 to 10 minutes before you come back to do your retinoids step and then the final step is anyone who's used a right and way before it knows that lips are prone to dryness if you get retinoids on them so I always put lip balm on as a barrier you're essentially protecting the orifices which isn't a very nice term but it's very important particularly at the creases and some people are naturally just prone to having some fine lines there and again it's not a nice place to have retinoids collect because it will cause blindness and irritation okay so that's me prepped and ready to apply my retinoid now I know you to get too caught up in my choice of retinoid today I'm doing a separate video on what retinoid is right for you and going through all the different ones but I'm going to use this one today but come because it comes in a nice pump format so what I think is key when you're starting a retinoid is to do less often and smaller amounts building up to bigger amounts more often as tolerance develops and that's a process that happens over the course of weeks to months so for the average patient I'm seeing for the first time I tend to start them on every other day and I use a quantity what I call a half finger tip amount which is essentially like that so half the distance from the crease to the end of the finger okay it's approximately okay sighs - Monte you want to use that sort of terminology and it's around a quarter of a gram of product over time as they get more tolerant and are able to use the product daily I'll build up to a fingertip amount which is around half a gram so pumps are easy I mean there are other products of course on the market like the ordinary try not to Freud that comes in a serum format I find droppers are a little harder to quantify the amount that you're using and I do prefer the cream because then again it's easier to distribute in a precise fashion serums are more liquid and I can lead to more you know potential spread onto areas you don't wanna treat so I'm ending my 13.2 technique again and I won't show you anything to do with eyes for next today because I think those are areas that as I say I call high high risk in a way but advanced level right your use of course there are areas that we want to treat because we want a thicker skin we want skin that's more resistant to wrinkling but as I said get used to doing it on the thicker parts on cheeks forehead nose entry first I'm then gonna really firmly rub that it you want to saturate the upper layer of your skin and you want to really work product in you don't it's sitting on the surface it's just gonna irritate a bit sitting on the surface what we want is ultimately to get the product into the stratum corneum and then to drip down into the dermis where it can work its magic on collagen production hyaluronic acid production and so forth I'm gonna really work in those areas nice and even because consistency with these things is absolutely key now anyone who's concerned about fine lines in the top lip will of course want to apply their retinoid there but I use a little bit less so I use the majority on these thicker parts and then I'm working in carefully two areas like that at the end you do want to work it into your nose because of course two priests appearance of your pores so a nice frame access but again I will consciously wipe away the crease area so it's not sitting there and collecting so final thoughts that's fully absorbed now and it's touch dry there's no product there for me to move around again if I was super nervous and extra cautious and naturally prone to dry skin or I had a bad experience with active products before I would now put another layer of moisturizer on it's what I call the moisturizer duvet so you've got a layer underneath to buffer the letter over the top to minimize dryness it's nighttime looking a little over Juhi isn't gonna hurt you no you're not wearing eye makeup sliding off or anything and if it gets you extra space to tolerate the rats know it more quickly then it's a great thing you have plenty of time over the next few weeks the next few months to build up the way you use your rest or to make it stronger but now is not the time for that and what's really important is to understand that what happens tomorrow isn't really the time that we worry about I worry about what might happen in three to five days because that's when retinoid dryness tends to appear so don't get cocky if you wake up day two and think oh I'm completely fine no stick to the every other day regime stick to the generous use of moisturizer before and even after and give yourself full two weeks of that protocol before deciding am I going to be okay can I ask a late or do I need a bit longer on the same slow track and it's fine to be that person okay so that's pretty much it that's how I approach it that's how I would start with time you can build up the frequency and the quantity so you can go from every other night every night have a fingertip to a finger tip amount and then when you're ready and that's usually after three months six months that sort of timeframe you can think about increasing the strengths - if you like what you see and you want to get even more results really try doing this video for you guys I hope you liked it if you did hit subscribe and hit the like button and I'll see you again soon bye for now

Channel: Dr Sam Bunting

Views: 417,321

Keywords: best dermatologist, london dermatologist, dermatologist vlogger, acne treatment, acne prone skin care routine, acne prone skin, flawless cleanser, flawless moisturiser, flawless sunscreen, dr sam bunting, dr sam, shea butter product, zinc oxide for acne, niacinamide, retinol, retinoid, differin, bakuchiol, tretinoin, retinaldeyhde, retinoic acid, retinol cream, vitamin a, retin-a

Id: dCH6On-5Rto

Length: 10min 6sec (606 seconds)

Published: Thu May 23 2019