My Luck Is Never This Good - A Day In The Life Of A Gas Engineer 121

all right so I've just taken these apart and that's all the mark That's come out of it so let's just flush these pipes through as well make sure there's nothing else left inside then we can rebuild it all put it back together test it and hopefully should all be good right first job of the day got a green star 24i junr suspected block plate heat exchanger the customers actually found me off of of YouTube and emailed me and asked me to basically see if I cover this area which luckily I've got a few jobs in this area today so kind of worked out that I can get here and get this done as well before I do do the plate because obviously it's an expensive part going to do my own checks anyway so I've got my temperature clamps on the cold and the hot so nothing's running at the moment they they've said the heating is running absolutely fine so doesn't like there's going to be a problem with the main heat exchanger most likely the the plate so we've got 15° on the cold pipe at the moment 35° on the hot pipe let's run the hot tap and see what sort of uh temperature rises we get we want to get we're looking for minimum of 35° difference between the hot and the cold if the boiler starts cycling on and off on and off and we don't get that temperature rise then we know it's most likely is going to be the block plate heat exchanger so let's let it do its thing and we'll come back to it right so so we it got up to a 35° rise between the hot and the cold and then it's going to lock out so normally in my experience when it does when it's a blocked plate heat exchanger it doesn't lock out to a reset it basically the boiler will go out the burner will go off it will cool itself down and then will fire back up again so we'll keep short cycling on and off on and off the fact that it's going to reset I need to check what this is relating to I think it's ignition lockout and if it is ignition lockout it sounds similar to a problem that I had on another wor before where where it modulates down once it reaches temperature the gas F was actually out of calibration and you needed recalibrating and that then allowed it to carry on running all the time so I'm going to check that to see if it's if it is an ignition lock out F then we'll start going down that basis because I was getting the 35° rise between the hot and cold so let's see what the IGN let's see what the for code is and got from there so I just had a look in the Mis and in fact it is an overheat lockout so blue light is slow flash normally on flash is off the lockout button is flashing so everything is relating to overheating so saying heat exchanger block heat exchange B Baff removed and not refitted blah blah blah blah but the fact that the heating is working and we're only getting this problem on the hot water it's going to be a block plate then so it is what I thought it was let's get it drained out let's get the plate swapped over got one in the van and we'll get retested afterwards right system's been drained out expansion vessels been recharged a the old one was it's in there it's all crusted over so I've sorted that out as well swapped out the a got the vent open so that that should drain any water out actually we can close that now we've finished draining the boiler that's all good now the plate luckily it's all piped down so you might have seen in one of my videos how I drop it out the back I'll put a link up here and in the description as well so you can refer back to it but I'm also going to do it in this video as well so you guys can see exactly how I do it so on these older style models you can drop it down from the hot side so all I'll do here is is I'm going to disconnect probably just a nut here and if I've got play on the pipe to push it to the back and move it away from the wall and then drop it out if not you can also just undo you don't need to undo this nut you can just undo the two screws there remove that manifold or pull it forward that will swing out the way and that will allow you to move this hot pipe out the way and then we can drop the plate out through the bottom so that's how I'm going to do it right that's the old plate out see if I can get a bit better lighting so you can see on the heating side on the system side there are chunks of black debris in there the domestic side is obviously fine because it only get blocked up if those limes go so just go make sure you put it back in the same way so arrows pointing that way arrows pointing that way I think these they mark them as well bottom yeah bottom so you can't go wrong which way to put it in so now I'm just going to slide it up the same way it will go up between the hot and the flow bring it around like that slot it back in I've taken the o rings out so I'm going to swap the o rings out on the back there as well pop it back together and then retest it all all right so new plates in tap's running it's been running for about 3 minutes now and it's not locked out we've got 43.3 de temperature difference it's not locking out it's staying on job done let's go to the next one right next job got an EOTech Pro customers reported problems with the hot water side so heating's running absolutely fine he's calling me calling back after when I run a hot tap that temperature just shoots up I've just tried it but just going to show it again it's just ramping up there you go that's jumping by 3 4° at a time goes over 80° and shuts off so customers had warranty on the boiler and they've had the plate heat exchange replaced already they've had the prv replaced and burus have been replaced on the service but with this problem still reoccurring I got suspicion is the canoe filter because the plates on these they very rarely get blocked up that canoe filter is what protects the plate from getting blocked up so luckily this is the newer style one so I should be able to get the left hand side panel off hopefully it's not too tight there um and then that should give me better access to the canoe filter so going to drain this out get it stripped out and then have a look see what's going on in there right boil is all been drained out I've managed to loosen the side panel but I can't get it off fully because I think on these ones there's little hinges that go in at the back so you kind of need to be able to pull it out and then off that way I think it's on the Eco it PES it's got the down facing hooks where you can pull it up this one yeah don't think this one goes up which is should be okay anyway so now I'm just got to undo that clip there uh FL head undo that clip pop the flow pipe out uh that's all still open so should be able to just pop that out and hopefully there shouldn't be any water I might actually have to undo that clip as well all right let me do all that first right so I've got that popped out and we're just letting a bit of air just letting the rest of it drain out and then because this is like a slip coupling now that I've got that out I should just be able to slide it up and then fish the canoe filter out of there hopefully it's not that badly blocked up that it breaks inside because that will be a proper nightmare then so let's see so I've just tried to put my finger in there and there's literally Rocks coming out of it look at that let's uh get the plum tub so we can see exactly was caught up in there cuz that is bad let's have a look see what more comes out of it I'm actually worried about pushing the muck in even more actually that flow pipe it's all got mck in it as well right I'm going to have to strip this all out now well that almost never happens that came out in one piece but the problem lies within this pip workor don't know if you can see it but I'm going to flash it out but there's chunks in there that actually seems to be okay I think I'm still probably just going to replace it with a new one get rid of this one cuz this is probably going probably gone brittle anyway all right so I've just taken these apart and that's all the mark That's come out of it so let's just flush these pipes through as well make sure there's nothing else left inside then we can rebuild it all put it back together test it and hopefully should all be good right I've managed to get it back in the side P actually ended up just dropping off which actually done me a bit of a favor that's back in now let's open up the fly and return I vals before I put the case and everything but I'm going to test it leaks wow that is that don't want to oh that's open already sorry I opened the FL vals and I need to to on pressure so let's do that one there one there let keep mind that building pressure building pressure I always keep my hose connected onto the drain off because you just never know all right that pressure is climbing cool so far so good so I'm going to stick that in P0 let it Purge out put it all back together and then we'll test it right hot water running Bo has been purged out now before that temperature on there was a shooting up to over 80° right now that's climbing a lot more steady that was jumping up in like 2 3 4° increments because of that blockage in the flow pipe now that's going up 1° at a time but a lot more slower as well so it's only just reached 60° 61 62 see before it was like 70 73 76 78 82 off that's still on 63 64 that's staying on problem Sol let's go on to the next one all right Dennis big man going to film him doing this TRV change I let him off on the last one because I didn't want him under pressure but on this one we've got an audience everyone's going to be watching him you got the whole family watching you no pressure you don't need that we not change the tail we just ch am the is Den why am I being Den no no he's done it before he this the first time he's been he's doing it on camera so let's go right so just prepping the valve get it pasted up I actually fitted all of these valves on I've fitted I've replaced not I fitted all of the valves in this prop about 10 years ago and only now one has started to fail a bit I think the pin's not working properly so coming back to one of my old jobs to get Dennis to do the repair now te yeah we'll see we'll see we'll see right so what we going to do first so isolated that side yeah we're going to loen the not yeah you know it was 10 years ago cuz I put PTF on the threads which way you tightening which way you going come on I've taught you better than that there's no pressure there's only well as it stands 8,700 subscribers watching you so no pressure in what did the whole KN come off with it yeah all right that's fine um it's coming off is it coming off yeah all right put it put that back on the tail where's the Olive here so put the knot on first onto the tail yeah put the olive on yeah now put your valve body on tighten up the bottom one cuz that it's moving did we good yeah I think that's tight enough right yeah careful don't overturn it right let's going and fill up some pressure right that's all on no leaks which is what we like good job Dennis thank you and that's us done for the day actually because the last two jobs I had are being rescheduled because yeah time just getting on a bit 10 to six and yeah that's it for today

Channel: CP Utility Solutions

Views: 5,750

Keywords: plumbing, boiler install, boiler, boiler repair, boiler wiring, plumber, gas engineer, gas, vaillant, turbomax, eca, baxi, potterton, combi boiler, heating wiring, y-plan, y plan, powerflush, honeywell, honeywell evo home, diy, plumbing fail, plumbing disaster, s-plan, s plan, boiler service, boiler breakdown, gas safety, gas safe, ufh, underfloor heating, worcester bosch, worcester, ideal boiler, water leak, radiator, pipework, pipe bending

Id: sCfBLHJA2R4

Length: 19min 3sec (1143 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 20 2024