Multi-Function Crosscut - Miter - Dado - Bevel - Tenon Cutting - Picture Frame Table Saw Sled!

[Music] hi my name is James today I'm going to show you our new flagship table sawce sled and all the things that it can do like all cross cut sleds of course it does cross Cuts very well but this table saw sled is unique it's not just a Crosscut sled it's something we've been working on for a little over a year and has a lot of amazing design features and abilities for example it will make picture frames and you're not limited by size the front fence has a quick disconnect feature so you can make picture frames with the sides to it as big as you like and it's extremely accurate the Triangular guide that holds the sections of picture frame in place was cut using the rules of geometry it wasn't cut with a tape measure or a framing square or a speed square it's cut so that it's perfect the resulting angles that this cuts are not accurate to a degree or a tenth of a degree or 100th of a degree they're absolutely perfect they're spoton 45° so if you're designing or building an elaborate picture frame then perfect for the angles is exactly what you want another feature this usually reserved for dedicated miter sleds that we've incorporated into our Crosscut sled is the ability to cut miters uh this incorporates a digital angle finder and it cuts also perfect it cuts to the accuracy of the digital angle finder which is about to the 100th of a degree and you can see we checked this here against a kex stainless steel 45° Square this little square is accurate to the thousandth of an inch and it felt spot on but sometimes you want to cut a miter that's considerably larger uh than something short no problem here because the quick disconnect front fist fence comes off and this removable section of The Back Fence comes off and you're not limited by length you can cut a board just as big as you want to pick up and set down on top of your table saw you can use the clamping system to clamp the board down before you cross cut it and we have the exact same accuracy here we're going to cut a 45° here and we'll mate these up and check out the accuracy that they produce but you're not limited to 45 with this miter sled you can cut any angle that you like if you want to use really long boards though you are limited to something in between about 0 and 46° all right so we'll take a quick look at this we'll line these guys up we'll take a quick look at this up against another kex uh stainless steel square and now we have a feature that I love and I use a lot actually uh and that's the ability to do bevel Cuts miter cuts are great and that's pretty unusual but bevel cut cuts are fantastic to be able to do on a sled normally if you do that you've kind of ruined your sled but with the zero clearance inserts that go both ways you can easily set this saw up to cut bevel Cuts anywhere from 0 to 45 or whatever bevel Cuts your saw will make another cool thing with the zero clearance inserts is you just spread them apart a little bit wider and you can cut Doos you could cut rabbits or you could use the ability to cut doos and rabbits and you can cut a Tenon you can cut a perfect Tenon and that's really handy um if you build tables and I used to build a lot of tables it's nice to have a jig that you can quickly make an accurate Tenon with and there's nothing more accurate than of course a table saw sled so some like the tenons like that insert them and some people want shoulders on the top and bottom of that board of course this will do that too we could readjust the depth a little bit if need be and simply put it right back up against our stop that's a homemade stop I'll show you how to make one of those and save you a ton of money over trying to buy a commercial one cuz you might notice you don't even need top track on a sled like this you build your own stop and you don't need top top track and you've saved like 75 or 80 bucks and there you go so we've cut a tentin in all the way around and the cool thing about this is the shoulders are perfect the shoulders are all exactly in the same plane so it's going to come perfect against your leg and then when you're all done with that of course it just takes a minute or so to put the table sawce sled back together you just readjust the uh zero clearance inserts clean it off and you're back to table sawce sled operation and you can do your cross cutting again so today we're going to wrap up the build this is part two hopefully you've seen part one if not it's on the YouTube channel and I'll put a link to it down below uh we're here going to cut and make a stop lock today uh one of the problems with table sawce sleds is they're expensive the parts for them are expensive and it's something that every woodworker has to have if you want to do quality woodworking you need a table saw sled for most of them after you buy a top track which can run 40 50 bucks and then a commercial clamp which could run another 40 you know after tax and shipping you've invested almost $100 just in that little component of your sled whereas the stop block clamping system that we have here literally just takes two pieces of hardwood and a dollar or two in Hardware and a few minutes to build works just as good as a commercial system and you don't need a top track or t track and you don't need to buy a commercial clamp so right off the bat you're you could be saving yourself as much as $100 on the sled plus it's cool you know something that you make yourself if you buy one of our sleds everybody who buys one of ours completed automatically gets an exotic wood stop block we're going to include that in the uh in the purchase there there's a link below if you're interested to see uh go and look at check out the sled on our website um but the so the design itself really isn't 100% mine it's kind of an amalgam of some different designs that I saw I first saw something similar in fine Woodworking magazine probably 15 years ago and then I I saw Mike Taylor from Taylor toolworks also do something similar using a one 123 block and most recently I saw Matt Outlaw from 731 Woodworks do something also with a uh with a a 123 block and they're great um this one's wood it's a lot cheaper than a 123 uh 2 three stop block but you know you can you can build it any way you like I'll show you how we do this one okay so to start with we have taken our two pieces of hardwood and we've cut them to size and then we've attached them together with some double-sided tape that way anything I do to them like the drilling here is kind of one continuous hole all the way through that'll just make it a little more accurate uh and and work a little bit better when it gets uh attached to the sled so I've laid out three holes across the top and actually it wasn't me this is Ryan my daughter CED his boyfriend he's doing work in the shop with us now and and uh he's having a really good time but we drill these three holes just some Quin holes and I put a uh like a/4 in by 3 and 1/2 in HEX head bolt in there and Ryan has traced around that and he hasn't done this before but he is going to Chisel it out in order to allow that bolt head to get recessed so to start with we'll grab a forcer or a little bit bigger drill bit and make that uh a little bit bigger diameter and uh to get closer to the edges of the flats then we'll just take a chisel and we'll chisel that out as close as uh we can as close as he can there so that it fits the hex head bolt and you certainly don't have to be perfect with this you just want to prevent that Bolt from turning and we're going to even glue it in a little bit but uh well if it fits in just reasonably snug it's not going to turn it's not going to tear Through the Wood and it doesn't get a ton of pressure anyway but it looks nice since it's recessed and that's kind of the idea uh behind it and so he's about to test it here and see how well he did and it's it's actually pretty good not too bad may not be the nus mortise but it's a good place to practice some of your uh mortising skills there next step would just be to sand it down make it look nice uh get rid of the rough edges and then we went to Home Depot and got a piece of aluminum round bar/ qu inch aluminum round bar I think it's only about $3 for one of these it's a/4 by 36 in you could make an awful lot of stop blocks with this um but you do need to have one you may be able to get shorter ones I think I saw them 12 in but they didn't have any when we were in there 12 in would just be a couple of bucks and it'll cut great on the chop saw just be very careful when you're cutting it make sure the blade comes to a complete stop before you lift it up out of there so you don't accidentally grab that piece and throw it around and then we want to take that aluminum and sand the roughness off of it it Sands pretty well with a coarse bit of sandpaper and just make it a little bit smooth around the edges so nobody gets nicked or scraped on it and then we'll assemble the stop block here's how it goes so we put the bolt in most of the way and we're going to get some CA glue in there we want it to stay in there and stay recessed this isn't really uh glue is not really there for holding Force to prevent it from turning that's the mortise that's going to stop all that and then he we'll freeze this this is me doing the assembly and now we're going to put that aluminum in I have roughed up the bottom half inch of the aluminum there with the coarse sandpaper I don't know if you can see that uh this just allows the ca to get a little bit better grip on it and we're just going to sink that all the way down you can tap it in if the hole is a little bit tight but we'll sink that all the way down so it's kind of flush with the with the other side of that piece of wood and I've got the exact dimensions in the plans we also have plans for this of course so you can uh you can get a set of plans for it or like I said if you want to just buy the sled outright we'll sell it to you so we'll CA glue those in there and that's kind of it everything else just fits so we want to kind sand it up um get most of that CA glue off will'll sand it all the way around if you want to put a finish on it this would be a good time to get a finish on it and just take a few seconds to make it look nice you don't have to go crazy with it I want to take a second to give a shout out to everybody in our Kings find woodworking Community who's really patient with me over the last couple of months to put this thing together and uh yeah there it is this a stop Block it's all complete and it just goes on the fence like this on The Back Fence and you tighten it down and that's it real simple you loosen it and you slide it wherever you want to lock it down and we're going to put a tape measure right on the top of the fence send this we'll sand the fence smooth and a tape will stick up there but that's it we just got two stop blocks and I might have skipped a section out assembly this one's purple heart so if you get one of our sleds you don't know what kind of exotic you'll get but you'll get something cool and remember these two get glued in so they don't go anywhere and this is the moving P portion of the stop block it'll go in and out and then the uh star knobble just kind of lock it in place and that's it it's that easy really really easy design you no longer need te track up top you don't need top track you don't have to buy a commercial clamp this will hold Rock Solid and it looks really nice so I want to do one more thing to it to make it uh a Precision stop block I'm going to Mark a location for holes on either side we're using a 38 in drill bit here well actually sorry it's a 5/16 in drill bit cuz I'm going to thread those holes with a 38 inch bit or with a 38 in uh uh thread or wood threading wood threading tap and you can just a regular tap will work these are like the Wood Whisperer um thread Taps they work great because you can just put them in your drill and tap it and it just makes a really good high quality quality Tab and so simple you can actually just thread the screw in now so this is a 38 by 16 screw which means it has 16 threads per inch so one complete revolution of this machine screw this bolt here is makes the the bolt go in by 116th of an inch so one full Revolution makes the bolt go in by 1/16th of an inch and this is one way that we can get really precision woodworking this bolt is a little long I do have shorter ones that actually go out with the sleds but once you put it in all the way or a little just about all the way I just make a mark like this on the face of it and kind of at the top and uh we'll just whenever we start we'll kind of start with that right at the very top I know it's not quite at the top there but we'll put one on the other side and we'll do the same thing with that and this way the stop block will be uh will have very uh good incremental positioning on both sides of the fence so check it out stop block is now a micro adjust so with that facing straight up if we were to turn it one full Revolution that's going to push the wood away from the stop by exactly a 16th of an inch if we go half a res Revolution I wasn't quite half there it's going to move it out by a 302nd quarter of a revolution by a 64th and a eighth of a revolution by 128th far more accurate than you ever need to be and it's on both sides so it works on both sides of the fence that's it that's all you need to have a high Precision micro adjusting stop Block it's all built into the technology of that simple little Bolt the 16 threads per inch bolt that's all that matters and so while it's in place you make your little cut and if you realize it's not quite right you can just remove the screw a tiny bit and cut it again and that'll incrementally move the screw over or incrementally move your wood over to get exactly what you're looking for with the stop block done let let's turn our attention to the picture frame attachment the picture frame attachment is exceedingly simple it's just a triangle however it does have to be a Precision triangle we need it far more accurate uh than say for example a big framing square which is a really common piece of uh equipment that a lot of people Ed to make their uh to make their their their picture frame jigs uh it wouldn't be it wouldn't be out of the ordinary for uh a framing square to be off a degree or even two in some instances so we're going to use the rules of geometry to make this absolutely perfect we're going to start by cutting two perfect squares I think I picked 7 and 1/2 in squares because it fits nicely with the saw and how everything goes together and you'll need to do something that's about the same there'll be detailed instructions of course how to do this in the plan and I'm going to remove that fence because now I need to make a bigger Square something that's bigger than this sled uh so that's the nice thing about this this particular particular table sawt sled is I'm not limited to what I can Crosscut by the gap between the fences we just uh use that quick release uh front fence and we can put really big stock in there which is really handy for cabinet work uh I don't have to Lug around a great big gigantic heavy sled I could just you know put it on here take that fence off and make perfect cross cuts on pieces much much larger than I could ordinarily and I wanted to mention we got a lot of questions after the first video people are asking does the picture frame part come with the sled if I buy the pre-built sled or does the does the miter function with the digital lle finder come with the sled or what do I need to buy you don't have to buy anything every single thing is part of the sled if you were to buy the the sled from us uh it includes the digital angle finder all the hardware all the attachments the the uh the TR trck the miter bars the bolts the screws uh a pre-made stop clip uh stop block everything is there it's 100% you don't need to buy a single thing for it if you if you get it from us all right so here we go we're going to take these two little squares and we're going to line them up perfectly on one corner of the big square if you saw my older table saw video taable saw sled video you might remember this so this is very similar I'm going to just tape that in place so it doesn't move but it's perfectly aligned to the edge of the big square and then I'll tape this one right next to it and it's also now perfectly aligned along the edge of the square and then we'll just run a little piece here I am going to do some cutting in a moment so it doesn't have to be fully taped down there I just want to make sure this holds nice and snug so now if I take this piece off that I put on it's identical to the square that is remaining on the big Square so it's identical to the other Square so if I turn this now and line up this edge with those two Corner points then I now have uh the geometry of a perfect 45° angle and that's just done by rotating it uh and putting it to these two points so that's a perfect 45° angle it's far better than what you could make by just grabbing a tool and drawing a line and we're going to use this to uh this whole sit up system in order to cut this triangle and it's going to be perfect and when I was done I actually mated this with a triangle that I cut on the CNC machine uh which if you get a sled made from us I will confess that all of the parts are cut on the CNC machine okay so what I'm doing here is I have uh I've double-sided tape taped a straight edge to my fence so I have a longer stretch of fence and I have put some tape down and I'm gluing on that little board there little Straight Edge Board this this just gives me more contact surface against my fence now because I'm going to slice this on the table saw and you can tell that I'm going to cut corner to corner on that big piece of plywood because the other two small Corners are touching my fence so it's cutting a perfect 454590 triangle and there's no tool in the shop that you could buy that could measure uh this and show that it was off by any amount not even a thousandth of a degree probably I'm sure the wood would would swell and expand and contract enough that you could see some error but uh over time but that's it's really simple to make you don't have to do anything complicated you make three squares two little ones and a big one and then just use your your table soft fence and cut it that's it that's a perfect triangle and that's our picture frame triangle it's really that simple it's not that hard to do we could check it if we want with a uh uh with a framing square um the framing square isn't going to show anything because it's not as accurate as the wooden triangle that we just made but it does match up pretty well and I've never really dropped that framing square so I think it's pretty accurate I do want to get an approximate line down the middle there this is going to help me do some alignment because I do have to attach a ruler uh to this triangle as sort of a measuring system and now I'm marking some whole locations I'm marking like 4 in up from the bottom I think it's 4 in uh and I'm uh drawing a straight line across there because I've got to drill a couple of holes in order to have this secure to the TR trck on the sled we don't want this triangle to move once I attach it to the sled and these don't have to be dead on they just got to be in the right spot so that you know I can I can set up a t-bolt from the t- trck and use some star knobs and just hold this down to the sled so that's pretty simple and I know my uh the TR trck on my sled's 12 and 1 12 in apart so that's why I created the center line and I'm going no C certain distance out on each side in order to establish the uh the correct distance for those holes so you can drill it with a drill if you have a uh drill press you know I probably drill them on drill press to be a little more accurate I'm going to drill a perfect quarter-inch hole because I don't want much play in those I want the the bolt to fit snugly on those and if you were to um buy our paper templates we do have paper templates available for sale the the paper templates of course come with the pattern and I'm just going to throw this up here for you to see it and I'll just show you that uh that lines up perfectly with the pattern that we have so you could if you get this you could actually trace it and cut it that way um pretty simple so temporarily I was screwing the uh this removable section here in with a screw until these knobs came in of course if you get a sled from us it does come with these knobs which just a a little bit quicker of a way to remove this section of fence in in the preview you saw me use one of those knobs but now I have them in stock for all the sleds and that's it so a couple of uh t-bolts and some star knobs locks that triangle down so that triangle is really the real the whole deal that's everything for the sled right so I'm going to go through a a little bit of procedure here in order to get the ruler lined up right because I want to take an accurate measurement so if I want to make like an 8x10 picture frame I want to know that my numbers are accurate and I know I'm going to have to make a cut here to remove a portion of this so I'm going to butt this up nice and tight to the edge I'm just kind of using that to butt it up to the edge to show where it needs to [Music] go I'm just going to uh make uh the location mark the locations of where this is now if you were to get this on your own and not buy our sled for example you'll need to get a quality ruler this is actually a 2-in wide ruler that's 1/8 of an inch thick so it's very heavy duty it's a good idea to get the heaviest Duty that you can you have drawn a pencil line there that kind of roughly shows where that cut has to happen and I want to actually make that cut right to the very Peak I'm just kind of drawing that as a reference to show me the angle that I want to cut but I want to cut it to the very Peak right to the corner and the waist is on the the the side where I just drew the arrow that'll just make it more accurate so if I make an 8 by 10 picture frame it's you know not off by E of an inch or 16th of an inch it's going to be perfect so we'll dial that over and we'll just make sure the blade comes down right on that very Corner we'll leave the very corner and here again if you're a tiny bit off it doesn't matter U you know how picture frames work they kind of um extend past the the picture a little bit so if your picture frame is 16th of an inch bigger than uh you know than your photo photograph it doesn't matter the edges of the photograph are still hidden behind the walls of the frame anyway but I like to make it accurate so we'll put that back in there you see I've left the entire Corner intact right to the very Peak we'll put that there to stop [Music] it and we'll see if you can follow along with the the procedure that I'm kind of doing now because I've got to get that ruler to move off the edge of the triangle so that I can clamp onto it with a little clamp block a stop block that we're making for that but I need it to come right down the dead center of my triangle at the same time so I'm going to take my straight edge here which I know is not perfect but this allows me to slide the ruler up and by sliding the ruler up the edge of that I'm naturally moving the ruler away from the triangle on the right side and that's what I want we're keeping the ruler in line where it goes but I'm moving it off the edge of the triangle I hope that makes sense right so I'm going to take some plywood here this is actually 3/4 in plywood uh you could use a piece of solid hardwood here too it doesn't make any difference this is going to be the stop block for the picture frame basically it's a 3in x 5 in rectangle that has a 45° angle chopped off of one side of it and then we're going to make a groove right down the middle of it because it's got to fit over our ruler it's going to be our stop block for measuring frames I made a little mark on a piece of the same plywood that I made that triangle from which is just 38 inch plywood and that's the exact distance I want from the fence because that's where I want the groove to be because I want this to fit flat on the triangle and then I want the groove to be here to fit uh fit this over the ruler and we can fine-tune the adjustment a little bit of if we need to not a big deal and then we're going to take and test it that looks pretty good just in any old piece of scrap we're going to check the depth there to get it exact The Depths the depth is important I want that depth to match uh the triangle and I also wanted to make sure that it fit that ruler so the piece of my cut off from the ruler and it actually fits nice and snug in there it's perfect if it didn't I might need a thinner curve blade and has to take a couple of cuts but that's one of the reasons why I got a 1/8 in thick ruler because it makes this really easy and then we're going to cut the dado here the groove you can cut that any way you like you can do it on your router you can do it on your saw take whatever safety precautions that you need to make that a safe cut the blade does stick up just a small amount and this is how it works so it's going to go over the ruler which sits on top of the triangle and this will slide up and down to allow us to measure it okay so what I'm doing now is I'm just kind of locating where exactly this framing square fits over here when that edge of it lines up perfectly with the peak so I'm going to move it into the peak and I'm just going to draw a couple of lines because what I'm going to do is I'm going to put some tape down some painters tape down on my uh picture frame triangle and some painters tape down on the bottom of this framing square because I'm going to temporarily glue this onto the picture frame triangle so it's a little tedious takes you know a good minute or two to set this up but that's important because it's going to allow the the ruler which is our measuring device and more importantly it's the mating Edge for the edge of the picture frame piece that's going to be cut so it needs to be equidistant from the picture frame triangle at all times it can't be flush and touching it it's got to stick out because that's how the clamping system works the clamp has to grab it on the top and the bottom so it has to stick out but it has to stick out the exact same amount out all the way and don't worry if it sounds confusing it'll all make perfect sense in just a minute okay so check it out we have to have the end of the ruler come right to the peak but it has to be away from the triangle so the only way to do that is to move it straight forward exactly straight forward and that's what the blue framing square is for it allows us to move it exactly straight forward which moves it off of the picture frame triangle now it's got to be the same on both sides that's what we're talking about you got to keep that perfect for so we're going to feel it to the bottom of the dado and make sure it's touching perfectly all the way across there if we do that we know we've done it right and then we're going to tape that down and we'll check it the reason we're taping it is because we need it fixed in place so that we can screw it in place if you order the sled from us the picture frame and the and the ruler picture triangle the ruler will not be attached I'll mate them I'll Mount them it'll be perfect but we'll have to detach them for shipping I can't really get a box big enough it's going to ship these two pieces as one unit pre-attached but not to worry they will come back together perfectly I've done it a dozen times we've tested it there's no problems with it in fact we're going to take this one off in order to trim the ruler down a little bit and put it back on and we'll test it again it comes together perfectly every time then I'm going to measure every 2 to 3 in uh down the ruler or 4 in down this ruler I want to get four or five screws in it uh to hold it securely to the plywood so we'll start by by drilling a hole in the ruler only that's about the diameter of the outside of the screw that we're using I'm going to use a number 6X 3/8 in Long screw so for sure it's not going to poke through the bottom of that 38 inch plywood and we're going to follow up with a counter sync I'll put a link to all these things in the description in the event that you need something like this and you don't already have it so we want the counter sync bit to be big enough so that the screw is flush with the top of the ruler or at least really close nothing's really going to ride over the top of it but it's a nice neat tight look if it's set up that way if it's a little below the surface that's fine there's a screw oh I was wrong sorry sorry it's um it's number 6 by 716 so it's a tiny bit longer than 38 all right and that's it then we're going to screw these down all the way across here I always like to do when I'm doing a a system like this is get one in the middle first and screw it and then I can get some of the other holes in and uh and screw those down too but that first one kind of helps anchor everything in place and keep it just a little more solid for the remainder of the drilling and before I continue I'd like to vacuum up all of these metal chips I don't want them around my sawce stop and if we're satisfied with that and that looks pretty good to me then we have to take this uh ruler here since I have a sawce stop and chop a little bit of this off it's already in the perfect spot so we know it's going to measure correctly all the way down so we don't need the very tip of it there so I marked it roughly with that red pin to show about where I'm going to chop it and then we'll unscrew it is what I was talking about we can take it off and put it back on and we'll just take it over to the chopsaw and we'll chop that bit off it doesn't matter really how much you take off you know if you just take off a tiny bit it won't really come into contact with the blade and you'll be fine if you don't have a saw stop probably doesn't make any difference um I always kind of trimmed them back anyway even when I didn't have a saw stop that just kind of gets rid of the uh gets rid of the the rough edges there because the the saw blade will occasionally touch it a little bit and it just becom sharp and becomes a hassle so it's a little bit neater if it stays away from the saw blade then I'm going to file it a little bit so that it smooth to the touch I don't want anything sharp that can cut me and we're going to put it back in place you see we're mating the holes back in and the the best tech technique to do this I have found is to put all the screws in partway don't sink them yet just get them all in partway and that helps get the alignment back perfect and once you have them all in partway you can follow up and sync them and we'll check it with the stop block but I'm sure it'll be perfect this is in fact how you make any picture frame sled really I've been making picture frame sleds I think since I saw them in fine woodworking that are something similar to this uh back in the late 80s or early 90s it's been a really long time next we're going to install the uh toggle clamp the toggle clamp is what's going to lock this uh stop onto the ruler just like a little friction stop I'm going to Mark the holes and then we'll just drill them and drive them home I'm going to use a cabinet screw here I could use a counter sync screw but I've got these sitting here on my shelf and I don't use them too much anymore so I'm going to kind of get rid of these but any screw here would work fine these just have a nice big grip kind of like a washer on top there and they'll hold it nice and snug if you get a small toggle clamp like this you will have to make sure that the foot of the toggle clamp goes all the way down in order to make contact with the ruler and so this is how it works you put it in place it slides over that ruler of course and you just move it to the right position and then lock the toggle clamp down it's as simple as that it's a 200 lb toggle clamp so it's pretty strong it's not going to go anywhere but you know it's not rock solid so you really can't slam the picture frame Parts against it when you're doing it but uh but it'll work great that's it and so that wraps up the picture frame portion of the build all right so next we are going to build the section of the sled that allows you to make miter Cuts this build is very straightforward we're just going to use the piece of the 38 in plywood it's got to be specific dimensions in order for us to maximize the miter angle that we can get and then we will have to drill a hole in it let's look at it shape we also need to cut the corner off just a little bit in order for the digital angle finder to work nicely there and we'll put a hole in it at the right spot and this will allow it to attach to the sled so that we get consistent results with our cutting so it'll basically go in here like this and then the miter Will Go On Top we'll lock this down and we can make our cuts that test fit looks nice next step is to install the digital angle finder and of course if you buy buy the sled from us it comes pre-installed everything's all done for you I'll put a link in the description below for some of these digital angle finders there's about three or four that all work perfectly um they all the same function uh they're very very similar in make I I think they might even be made by the same company uh we just basically what I showing there is we want it to line up right to the edge of this piece of plywood so I'm going to put some double-sided tape to hold it in place and then I've got a kind of a board uh buted up against the plywood that way when I set this angle finder in place I can also butt it up against the plywood and that's going to keep the the angle reading true so when we zero it before we make our first cut then of course once we uh make any adjustment to the bevel to the angle there um it'll measure accurately and we'll screw it in you if you go and buy this and do this yourself you will have to drill and counter sync these uh you can do it on the drill press or you could just do it by hand just a regular drill bit Works um the steel is not hardened steel in any of these so it drills through pretty easily uh once you have it drilled you will need to counter sync it and the counter sync is important because we want the screw to be flush because this digital angle finder has to open and close nicely so I'll put a little bit of tape on the top because we're going to have a board that goes on the top of that and we changed the battery from the side over there on the black plastic so you can you can always have access to change the battery no problem and hold this up against the edge because the board that I put on top I want it to be perfectly flush with the front edge of that gauge and all these steps just ensure that the um the zero mark on the miter gauge is in fact true zero relative to the sled fence and of course that'll make it true 990 relative to the blade and then we'll screw it in we'll just leave the tape there permanently but we'll screw it together and that's that's pretty simple that's it that's all there is to that it's screwed down to the base and that's screwed together now we want to put a little Block in front and this block in front is what's going to butt up against our plywood so CA glue is really all you need this is never under any pressure now a miter gauge like this this is not something that you if you're going to make production miter Cuts something much more serious uh you're going to need a better miter gauge than this a better system than this like the incr miter 5,000 I have that unfortunately just does one thing miters but it does miters very well so if you're going to be cutting ERS all day long you're going to want to go something a little more industrial a little more heavy duty but if you just occasionally need a 30° angle on something or 42 degree angle on something this is far more accurate than a chopsaw much easier much nicer cut and it's it's it's just the way to go it's more accurate but if you're here again it's also faster to set up but if you need to be cutting all day long big long heavy boards then you're going to want to probably go with something you know more dedicated to that purpose unfortunately uh building a slud like this is sort of a a design compromise you have to make lots of compromises in order to get lots of functions into the sled one or two of those functions might not be optimal for say production work and and that's what this is here although as you can see from this gauge here of course it cuts very very accurately and that's just no modification just by keeping those uh keeping all those edges square that we lined up when we screwed the miter gauge onto the piece of plywood so next and last we are going to cut out for the DAT and you see I have the zero clearance inserts moved all the way out of the way we'll butt them up to the datato when it comes time now this will work for a table saw that tilts left or right and you can see it's on that side because this table saw my saw tilts left if you had a right tilting saw you would be slicing out the other side that's just how it's configured to work but once we have the data there we can slide the uh zero clearance inserts right over to it you want to make sure you're buding it to the teeth to the carbide teeth not to the body of the blade uh otherwise you'll just you know keep trimming away at your inserts until they get too small um if that does happen it's not really a big deal um Some people prefer to do that in order to make sure they absolutely have zero clearance um and if you do and you trim them away after you know a couple of months of use it's no big deal you can make another set if you even if you buy the sled from us I'll give you the plans uh the exact dimensions and measurements to make yourself another set with we even sell the sets on our website so you can you can pick up set you don't have to make them but they're not too hard to make and that that's really it that is the um dat function once the dato function is done of course it's very easy to just put the sled back together and that really concludes all of the special builds to put all of the various jigs together that this sled features I hope you enjoyed it and thanks for watching [Music]

Channel: Kings Fine Woodworking

Views: 520,404

Keywords: ultimate table saw sled, best table saw sled, crosscut sled, dado sled, removable insert, table saw sled, perfect crosscut, crosscut jig, woodworking table saw sled, woodworking cross-cut sled, build a table saw sled, crosscut, cross cut sled, miter sled, how to make a cross cut sled, how to make a cross-cut sled, table saw sled plans, 5 cut squaring method, sled, small table saw sled, zero clearance insert, cross-cut sled, table saw, sierra de mesa trineo, 5 cut

Id: IhIUWeSwwHE

Length: 40min 25sec (2425 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 14 2023