Motorcycling Maintenance - Funny 1942 British Military training film - Triumph - Norton - BSA

woohoo modern motorcycles are strong and reliable machines they can do almost everything that is ourselves and then be ready for more but like every other machine they must be looked after in other words methodical and careful maintenance is the only way to keep them in condition to meet unfailingly the varying conditions and the ruthless demands of war [Music] sometimes a hard day in the field leaves riders so tired that they want rest more than anything else but as in pre-mechanized days riders would attend their horses before themselves so must motorcyclists attend their wheeled steeds and have them ready for the next day or any sudden emergency there are vital things on a motorcycle that must be constantly done or checked in this daily inspection but before a start can be made the machine must be cleaned dirt may hide faults when cleaning is finished fill up with petrol by the way don't insist on a brimful tank as vibration and bad surfaces will cause petrol to leak out through the filler cap and so waste pressures fuel another point screw the filler cap up tightly then top up with oil a machine only runs well when it's well lubricated when petrol and oil are filled you'll be ready to move at a moment's notice if needed remember however before starting off on your next run to check the oil circulation by looking at the oil indicator if one is not fitted you can generally check the flow of oil from the return pipe in the oil tank inspection should follow a definite sequence tire pressures must be checked to get the best out of your tires and your machine on any surface smooth or rough level or gradient the tires must be at their correct pressure to be sure of correct pressure check your tires with a gauge he's put the dust cap on the ground never do this put the dust cap and gauge either in your pocket or in a safe clean place notice how he gives the inflator a couple of pumps to clear any dust or water which may have got into it this daily inspection has an important place in the maintenance of a motorcycle because it is a brief checkover to make certain that vital parts are functioning correctly now the lights just switch on and be sure they're working correctly and that includes the rear light don't forget to switch off the front forks can be checked by vigorously raising the handlebars up and down then it doesn't take long to run over the controls to make sure that they are secure and look at the bowden cables for fraying and the possibility of rust after the handlebars check over the machine for general security such parts as mud guards can be tested in a simple manner any looseness will be immediately apparent the rear chain is the final drive that makes the wheels go round so check its tension and the spring clip since the chain is partially exposed to the elements lubricated some machines have automatic lubrication but it is often advisable to augment this with the oil can it is most important to check over the tools you never know when you may need them then there's the puncture repair outfit see that it's all present and correct and check the spares for front and rear chains a missing link makes a chain useless pack your tools away carefully and securely many have been known to fall by the way you see it's not a long job it does mean that you can put your machine away confident that it is ready for your next run the daily inspection can cover only a small percentage of the parts that must be checked and adjusted so a system has been devised by which the complete machine is thoroughly inspected every week this is called the task system and it consists of six daily tasks which must be completed every week not only does this ensure continual maintenance but it has the added advantage that the writer learns every part of his machine there was once a man who thought the task system unnecessary but not for long [Music] each task contains a number of definite jobs for instance task number one is connected with the engine inspection is carried out methodically and begins with gas tight joints a leakage of the cylinder head joint would be shown by the presence of oil blown out at the joint if this is covered with dust or mud it must be wiped to inspect it and you must inspect it on both sides the engine mounting follows for security of such parts as the engine plate bolts and crank case bolts be careful not to use too much force on any bolts continual over tightening will stretch them nearly always the presence of oil on a joint indicates the need for investigation this magneto chain case showed a leakage an inspection reveals a loose screw so far the engine has been checked for security but what about its running it may have seemed all right when the machine was on the road at speed but slow running must also be checked and in this case it is very uneven after trying varying positions of the controls the trouble is traced to the carburetor this is a job for the fitters this is how it should have sounded your exhaust is a good telltale not more than a faint blue smoke should be visible much too faint for the camera to notice an indication that oil is getting past the piston is excessive smoke like this a very bad example compression is next if the kickstarter can be pressed down easily with the throttle wide open the compression is poor and it should be reported immediately when you can stand on the kickstarter with your full weight and cannot depress it then the compression is good in a high efficiency machine like a motorcycle adjustments are necessarily fine and must be checked this applies to tablets and it's quite simple to take off the cover and when both valves are closed feel with your fingers if there is too much or too little play they should revolve easily but not move up and down now let's have a look at task number two which deals with engine lubricating system and fuel system if the bolt on a rifle becomes stiff in action or even jams it's a hundred to one that it either hasn't been oiled or the oil is dirty it only runs smoothly if it is clean and lubricated the model is keep your oil topped up and feel it to test its quality to add clean oil to dirty oil that has lost its lubricating qualities is useless apart from the schedule change test the oil regularly and change it before if necessary it is not much use having nice clean oil if it's going to leak out so see that the crankcase plug is secure and the oil unions the best way to spot a leak here is to keep them clean then you can see immediately if oil is being lost this task includes the fuel as well as the lubricating system make sure the tank is secure both by checking the tank itself and the securing bolts don't strain them or the result may be a leaking tank then the carburetor see that it is secure on the cylinder and that the float chamber is tight onto the mixing chamber finally see that the carburetor is upright and at the same time examine for leaks if you see it dripping then there is something radically wrong and it must be reported immediately it's very simple to test for leaks at the petrol tab if your finger is dry then obviously the tap is also dry the same simple test does for petrol pipe unions petrol pipes both flexible and metal must be checked for chafing and kinks this one is rubber and has worn against the dynamos trap and as the damage is severe it must be changed as you can see it has worn deeply before the new pipe is fitted the dynamo strap must be moved around so that it can do no more damage this you see is quite a simple operation while the new petrol pipe is being fitted don't forget that there are oil pipes sometimes flexible sometimes metal which must be regularly inspected in the same way as this petrol pipe by the way when you replace a petrol pipe remember to turn on the petrol and test the unions for leaks that's all right nothing difficult about that task the next number three deals with the ignition system sparking plugs charging system and battery here is the mag dyno that produces the spark that explodes the mixture that pushes the piston that revolves the main shaft that drives the chain that turns the wheel start by seeing that the mag dyno is securely on its mounting then remove the contact breaker cover it's rather tricky but not difficult if you don't use force and see that the inside is clean and free from moisture a correct spark depends upon the operation of the contact breaker which you can see moving around and the points opening it is when they open that the spark occurs in the sparking plug the correct gap is therefore vital and should be checked with a feeler gauge attached to the magneto spanner replacing the cover is a fiddling job like taking it off but you'll soon get the neck with practice from the mag the spark is carried to the plug by a high tension wire which runs near the cylinder therefore it needs inspection for chafing or burning which might cause a shot having arrived at the plug our task number three says examine it it's sparks not shorts that engines require the insulation must be clean because dirty porcelain may cause a short circuit whether the insulation is porcelain or mica it must be kept clean all plugs should have a gas tight fit in the cylinder head with careful inspection of the ignition system you've gone a long way to retain the efficient running of your machine that is fine in the daylight but when you're riding at night efficient lighting is just as essential so the battery must be kept charged and in good condition after all the battery of a motorcycle receives the same jolts as the machine itself all the more reason therefore that it should be secure and kept clean and topped up dirt has even found its way in here and may cause shorts it's most important that the top of the battery should be kept free from dirt and dry though not difficult it requires patience to get around all the nooks and crannies top up with distilled water not tap water or water from a metal container it needs sufficient to cover the plates a quarter of an inch only more than this may be spilled by a vibration and road shocks before replacing the plugs make sure that the vent holes are clear so that the gas is generated in the battery can escape vents plugs and battery top all nice and clean now the terminal should be checked for security and corrosion this is as important as it is simple finally smear the terminals well with vaseline or lanolin to prevent corrosion if neither is available then clean the terminals frequently with a dry rag when the cover is replaced it must fit properly as you've seen dirt like love will find a way and under the best conditions so don't make its entrance easier by having a badly fitting cover make sure that the battery is firm in its cradle the motorcycle will give it enough jolting so don't let it suffer a secondary jerking by its being insecurely held what might be called the control parts of the machine are covered in the fourth task steering brakes wheels and tires starting with the handlebars check the mounting by moving the handlebars up and down any looseness will immediately be felt while there the handlebar controls can be checked the twist grip that's all right the front brake lever that is loose adjustment is simple just screw up until it is secure with all handlebar controls you can adjust them to suit your comfort air lever that's all right now across to the other side ignition lever exhaust valve lifter and clutch lever if a machine developed a wobble like this the steering assembly would immediately be suspected therefore it should be examined for adjustment with the shock absorber slackened the forks should have free up and down movements then by holding the fork link and girder with one hand and rocking with the other any side play can immediately be felt all the knurled washers like this should also move freely but without side play now for the main spring a weak spring like this shows itself by throwing the fork links well out of horizontal if the tension is correct the fork links should be almost horizontal now you can see the difference when a new spring is fitted loss of tension by the way only takes place very gradually the steering head is the last of this assembly and for this the crankcase must be chalked up first completely slacking off the steering damper then by getting in front of the machine and rocking the forks any play can be felt there appears to be none here but if there were it would have to be reported as it's not a job for the rider while the machine is chalked up have a look at the tires for cuts and uneven wear the tread is liable to pick up bits on the road get them out before they cause a puncture hard riding conditions cause strain on the spokes and they tend to loosen should therefore be regularly checked and any loose spokes must be reported don't forget there are spokes on both sides of the wheel now the wheel bearings can be checked for play like this by rocking the wheel on a norton there should be no side play but on some machines there should be a little to check the front brake spin the wheel and press the brake lever if it nearly touches the handlebar it needs adjusting the adjustment is quite simple but keep the wheel spinning to make sure that the brake isn't binding now the brake lever has good clearance from the handlebar when it's full on with the rear brake the pedal should be at a comfortable height in conjunction with the footrest this is much too high it's even worse to have it too low like this because it would be very difficult to reach generally it should be approximately level with the footrest like this to adjust the brake pedal slacken the locking nut and to lower it unscrew the stop until the pedal is in the required position to raise the pedal you would naturally screw in the stop then tighten the locking nut and your adjustment is complete now you can see the value of correct adjustment it really can only properly be tested with the foot which should be able to reach the pedal with a minimum of movement incidentally never ride with your foot on the brake unless you're going to use it for the break itself spin the rear wheel and try it that seems all right nobody likes this sort of thing to happen the front forks are not working and he's having a most uncomfortable ride seized fork spindles are the cause probably through lack of lubrication lubrication is as important on these control and structural parts as it is in the engine now you can see how the well lubricated and adjusted forks absorb the shocks of the uneven ground and give the rider much greater control of his machine as a principle it can be said that any part that moves needs lubricating let us run over a few of them such as the steering head be careful here not to over grease or it'll find its way onto the steering damper always wipe the nipple clean before greasing and don't forget to wipe the surface grease off it only collects dust that was the steering head now the spindles and there are six nipples to ensure that they receive sufficient lubrication this one needs care otherwise grease will get onto the shock absorbers the hub is rather more awkward but don't neglect to wipe the nipple clean before greasing again avoid over greasing otherwise you'll force it through to the brake the hub is filled in order to grease the bearings which are on each side this cutaway model shows a correctly packed hub some motorcycle hubs cannot be greased with a gun and have to be dismantled and the bearings packed by hand the filthy condition of this bearing is the result of mud and water getting in and no amount of greasing can remedy the damage so periodically the hub should be dismantled cleaned and re-packed when mud gets into a bearing it acts as a grinder with this result badly worn and with considerable side play this is how a bearing should look and behave easy to revolve but without any play reverting to over greasing nipples which may allow grease to penetrate onto a friction surface should not be treated so vigorously as this brake shoe cam spindle the grease will get through into the brakes the wheel revolving will spread it onto the linings and render the brakes useless for general lubrication the oil can should be used intelligently neither sparingly nor liberally lubrication is to prevent friction on moving parts therefore give each part sufficient for its job but don't smother it the lubrication of the handlebar controls and bowden cables if done correctly with the finger directing the oil allows just the right amount for free working and protection from rust the fifth task deals with the transmission this includes the primary chain clutch gearbox and rear chain if you want your machine to run smoothly the transmission must be smooth the power of the engine must be transmitted to the rear wheel with the greatest amount of efficiency starting at the front the clutch lever should have free movement this one is too tight and the result is a slipping clutch you'll see that the rider has opened his throttle without any increase of speed the clutch cable being badly adjusted does not allow the clutch plates to close and grip firmly now you see the difference there is more movement allowing the plates to close completely because there is sufficient free movement at the clutch lever a quarter of an inch is enough with the gearbox normal running would probably indicate any fault so lubricated with the correct grade of oil thick oil may cover the filler hole and cause an air lock using the oil can prevents this as power is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox by the primary chain this chain is vital correct tension is most important and the method of testing it is to feel the adjustment through the inspection hole turn over the engine with the kickstarter and test the chain at several different points with the cover off you'll be able to see the correct amount of up and down movement which should be approximately three-eighths of an inch at its tightest point the primary chain runs in an oil bath and near the bottom of the case is a level plug which should be removed before topping up the procedure is to top up with m220 oil until it overflows through the oil level hole the overflow will show you that the correct bath level has been reached thus ensuring the lubrication of the chain when replacing the plug be careful not to over tighten and damage the washer don't forget to replace the inspection cover otherwise oil is liable to splash out and dust get in the rear chain is the final stage of the transmission we have taken off the guard if the chain is loose it would give jerky transmission and increased wear this chain is obviously a need of adjustment the hexagon and the adjuster bolt on both sides of the rear wheel are the means of adjustment as both sides are similar we'll show you only one side the hexagons are loosened the locking nut on the adjuster bolt is slackened and the adjuster bolt is screwed in and the turns noted until the wheel has moved far enough back to take up the slack in the chain the correct amount of up and down movement about three quarters of an inch is taken midway between the gearbox and rear wheel sprockets and at the tightest point of the chain the lock nut is now tightened the adjuster screw on the other side screwed in the same amount of turns and the hexagons tightened as the wheel has been moved rearwards don't forget to check the brake rod adjustment whenever the chains are adjusted it is always essential to check the alignment of front and rear wheels by means of a straight edged board the alignment correct give the hexagons a final titan and so to task number six which deals with frame fittings lamps horn and general items it's rather like looking over a house to check over the fixtures and fittings brazed or welded joints should be wiped so that you can see signs of cracks or rust which would indicate the beginnings of a faulty joint any looseness in a joint would cause the paint to crack and allow rust to form you can therefore see the value of wiping before inspecting lack of careful inspection would have overlooked this battery cradle joint with the possible loss of the battery apart from the frame itself there are many fittings attached to the frame by lugs pillion foot rests prop stand these are subject to damage which might pass unnoticed except for a regular inspection the security of bolts and nuts must be checked because a motorcycle has tough work to do and nuts may loosen as you know vibration and road shocks tend to loosen nuts and bolts and constant inspection is necessary spanners should be used to check security and should never be forced as you see the pressure is firm and just great enough for the particular nut or bolt a cylinder head nut stands up to considerable force but using the same force on a petrol union may cause considerable damage such as this the amount of purchase afforded by a long ring spanner may result in strip threads this ring spanner though of small gauge is long and can soon cause irreparable damage to threads look at that for a strip thread another point use a spanner of the exact gauge required if the spanner gauge is greater than the nut the corners will soon be worn and so will your knuckles in addition the correct spanner should be used for each job for instance these two spanners fit the same size nuts the large one should be used for example on a holding down nut which is designed for greater tension the smaller spanner would naturally be used say on a union where there is less tension you should be able to feel the tightness of a nut or union the basic principle of tightening or adjusting is the intelligent use of tools there are a host of hints and tips which you will learn from your instructor or by experience and many of them will add considerably to the comfort of your journeys as for instance the correct way to adjust your shock absorbers there is nothing involved in the task system in fact it is a straightforward as it is essential because it has been devised to ensure that every part of the machine is regularly examined in a methodical rotation the system is flexible but all the six tasks must be carried out on your machine every week then you'll keep your machine up to concert pitch so that it will unfailingly respond to all the demands you may make of it [Music] motorcyclists are cheerful folk at least those who through regular maintenance keep their machines in fine fettle theirs are the smiles of men who know their tasks but above all carry them out [Music] woohoo

Channel: Tripp On Two Wheels

Views: 36,431

Rating: 4.9614921 out of 5

Keywords: british dispatch riders, dispatch riders, World War Two dispatch riders, vintage Norton motorcycles, Norton 16h, 1942, motorcycle maintenance, Norton maintenance, maintenance, vintage Norton motorcycle, vintage triumph motorcycle, vintage bsa motorcycle, vintage matchless motorcycle, British military motorcycles, military motorcycles, World War Two motorcycles, british military training video, motorcycle training film, british military training film, british motorcycles, classic

Id: xoW-7b0-UOw

Length: 35min 28sec (2128 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 14 2021