(dramatic music) Narrator: We all know it. Walked it every day. But none of them were like these. (dramatic music) The World's Most Dangerous Ways to School. (dramatic music) Climbing, freezing, paddling for hours, all for the chance of a better life, risky, spectacular, and sometimes simply beautiful. (dramatic music) The World's Most Dangerous Ways to School. (dramatic music) They have only one goal, to attend school. But the only way to get there leads them across the river and the ice. (dramatic music) No one likes walking it, but whoever wants to go to school has no choice. Four days through the canyon. Four day of struggle, four days of torrential water. It is one of the longest existing ways to school, and definitely one of the most dangerous ones. (dramatic music) Sangla a village on the river Zanskar, high up in the Ladakh in the Indian Himalaya Mountains. Everything seems sheltered. Intimate, almost like a small world of its own. (dramatic music) Which is exactly the problem the 650 people living here face because their village lies in the midst of the Himalayan mountains which are up to 8,000 meters high. They are isolated in the outside world, in an almost never ending winter. There are only a few months free from snow and ice. That's why the children who want to attend the good schools in town must take on one of the most dangerous ways on earth. Motuk is only 10 years old, and even if it sounds incredible he takes on this extremely dangerous journey. Motuk attends boarding school in Leh the second largest town in Ladakh. The two months of winter break are now coming to a close. Even though lessons will first start in a week's time, it's Motuk's last day in the village. (upbeat music) Motuk is one of the few boys who regularly leave the village in order to attend one of the better schools in town. (upbeat music) Two years ago he won a scholarship for the school, since then his and his family's life have changed a lot. For his schooling Motuk leaves many of his friends behind for a long time because most of the children attend the standard school in the village. (dramatic music) The way to school really is an expedition lasting several days for which Motuk's parents Latak and Chostone prepare meticulously. Latak will accompany his son on the way across the frozen river. There are no shopping facilities or accommodations on the river. The essentials like provisions, and sleeping bags have to be carried by father and son themselves, Latak must not forget anything. Every packing mistake can become life threatening on their journey. The heavy load is carried on the self towed sleigh most of the way, the Chadar, as the way on the ice is called, makes many demands of fathers and sons. (speaking foreign language) -: The Chadar poses many riddles. The water may rise, at any time. Obstacles may appear from nowhere, therefore the journey may take seven to eight days, and sometimes even more than a fortnight, that's why we have to carry all the stuff with us. (soft music) Narrator: The children living in the up to 4,000 meter high lying mountain valleys of Northwestern India must decide early on whether they want to leave their village at some point. In most cases this is only possible if they go to a better school at an early age. Youngdoy lives in the neighboring village. Her big house is almost empty because none of her four children live at home on a permanent basis. All of them attend school far away from the village. Okay take this with, and this, and this also. Narrator: Her daughter Dokar is 12 years old and is anxiously preparing for her dangerous way to school. But for her dream job she puts up with a lot. (speaking foreign language) -: I want to be a doctor when I grow up. I want to take care of patients. I like doctors. Narrator: Her mother Youngdoy wants her children to attend good schools, that's why both she and her children accept the separation. -: If children agree to go to that school it's already a great relief, nowadays without proper schooling one is no longer a valuable member of society, that's why we send the children to school. Whether one becomes valuable or not education is a must. (upbeat music) Narrator: Shortly before departure Motuk who is in the fifth grade and his father take another close look at the river. They've only made the journey, the Chadar, one other time before, and that was the previous year. How long will it take them this time? And whether they will make it at all solely depends on the condition of the river's ice. Apart from this bridge, there is no infrastructure at all on the Zanskar, the river is completely untouched, inaccessible without a footpath on either side. For father and son it's of vital importance to know the river and its dangers in detail. -: We first have to cross the ice over there you agree don't you? Afterwards we can easily pull the sleigh through the snow. But Motuk is not really listening, he dreams what the risky way across the river might hold in store for him. -: I want to be a pilot when I grow up. Because the pilot and his plane are always up in the air. I like that, I'd love to be up in the air. (speaking foreign language) Narrator: The way to his dream? Dangerous and far. About 100 kilometers on foot through melting ice lie ahead of the 10 year old boy. The Chadar has many facets, and even among the local experts it is considered to be entirely unpredictable. (rushing water) (dramatic music) Anyone walking along here is afraid of falling in and being pulled under by the current. The last dinner within the family circle. Motuk was at home for two and a half months, now he's leaving again for a very long time. The family is proud because Motuk was selected for a school which was founded by the Dalai Lama. Not only in the neighboring Tibet, but also in the Indian Ladakh the Dalai Lama is the most worshiped and admired person. Motuk says goodbye to his family with a song in honor of the school founder. (speaking foreign language) (singing in foreign language) The next morning the 12 year old Dokar starts even earlier on her way to school. Her home is quite far away from the point of access to the river, her mother Youngdol accompanies her. (dramatic music) Motuk says goodbye to his mother outside the house. Except two weeks for summer holidays he won't see his family for nine months from now on. (speaking foreign language) (soft music) Family: Bye bye! (speaking foreign language) -: I'm very sad and have no appetite. The first two weeks after letting my child go are very tough and lonely, after a fortnight I miss them less and it gets a bit better. -: Being on my own is difficult, when my big brother is at home we do everything together. He tends the sheep and the goats but now I have to do that by myself, and that's difficult. Narrator: With good reason parents and children cross the river always in small groups, that way they can help each other in an emergency and profit from the others experience. Motuk and his father meet Dokar down at the river, she will join them. (dramatic music) (speaking foreign language) -: Hello how are you? Shake his hand, come on shake his hand. Narrator: Two more fellow students are waiting. Teshma and Jordan. They are accompanied by Jordan's father Thinly. Latok carries Dokar's baggage. His sleigh must bare more than 30 kilograms by now. (speaking foreign language) The six of them plan to make the 100 kilometers in three to four days, if nothing goes wrong. Motuk and the other children use hiking sticks for better support. The adults carry the sticks for a different reason. (speaking foreign language) -: With the stick we check if the snow and the ice are okay. The stick is a tool for us. Here the snow is hard and good. (dramatic music) Narrator: At the beginning the path is wide the ice strong and thick, the children are making good progress on the fresh snow. (dramatic music) It is cold in spite of the sunshine temperatures lie at minus 10 degrees celsius, in the shade it is far colder. (dramatic music) The first three hours of the way that will last for days lies now behind the children. They're tired and have decided to ride on the sleighs. (dramatic music) Time for the first break right next to the river on the ice. Thinly lights the kerosene stove. Latak fetches water, from the river of course. Hot and sweet food is supposed to invigorate the children, dinner is what as always is in wintertime even at home, Chai and Samba, this is a sweet milky tea made with barley flour. (speaking foreign language) One 10 minute break per hour. One big break per day. By following this rhythm the adults hope that the children will be able to cope with the challenges of this long way to school. At least Motuk is optimistic, he has been through this once before. -: Last time it wasn't that far, I liked it. I was only a bit scared. (dramatic music) Narrator: Afternoon is approaching, it won't be long until the sun disappears behind the mountains of the canyon, then temperatures could quickly drop below minus 30 degrees celsius. Concentration suffers from the permanent cold and exertion but it makes no difference, they have to keep going, and quickly. (dramatic music) Motuk's mother Chostone is visiting a stupa in Sangla at the Buddhist monument, she will pray for a safe passage for Motuk and Latak. (dramatic music) -: Last year that Chadar was very tough. Sometimes they had to walk in the water, all the clothes got wet and so did the money. They nearly fell off the rocks, but luckily they were rescued. (upbeat music) Narrator: During the winter months the Chadar is the only way to leave the high mountain valley Zanskar, in this uppermost northwestern part of India there is practically no infrastructure. (soft music) Whoever doesn't absolutely need to go to town stays in his village and goes to town in summer. (soft music) For many Ladakhes the Chadar is an adventure they never want to experience. But still school children regularly make the long journey. (speaking foreign language) The sun has just gone down behind the mountain in the river valley, it suddenly turns ice cold. Their first night out in this unforgiving wilderness lies before them. Latak and Thinly now need shelter as quickly as possible for the night. A few meters above the river they have discovered a cave. (speaking foreign language) Finding a safe shelter by the river is an adventure in itself and it certainly won't be the only time they will all have to climb the rocks. (soft music) They will spend the first night up here in this half open cave. The cold has already struck the children to the marrow, they must keep themselves warm by every means in order not to fall ill. (soft music) (speaking foreign language) At nightfall temperatures decreased to minus 30 degrees celsius. (speaking foreign language) Now the fire not only warms the inhabitants but also heats up the cave floor a bit, on which fathers and children will later want to sleep. Motuk is tired and his father is concerned about the following days. If the weather remains good this will be a calm Chadar. If it gets bad anything can happen, I think it'll work out. (dramatic music) Narrator: At least day two starts with sunshine. The night was cold, but bearable. On the Chadar there are no pajamas or extra clothing, one sleeps in the clothes one is already wearing. The only way to endure the icy temperatures in the old army sleeping bags, and a solid night's sleep is important for the children. (dramatic music) -: I get tired when we walk for a long time, sometimes we don't take any breaks, but I like the breaks. When we stop for the night I look forward to my sleep. Narrator: From now on things get very serious, the most difficult passages on the way to school are imminent. (dramatic music) The river Zanskar digs ever deeper into the canyon. The speed in which the river flows increases dramatically and there is less and less ice along its banks, from now on this way to school is seriously dangerous. (dramatic music) Two kilometers further down they reach the first really difficult passage. The ice at the edge of the rock is so narrow and thin it seems they are stuck for the moment. (dramatic music) With all his experience Latak checks whether the ice is strong enough to support them. (dramatic music) Here the river is not deep, but fast and extremely cold. If one of the children fell into the water here quite definitely he or she would be pulled under the ice by the river's current, the mistake would be fatal. 10 ten year old Motuk dares to go first, his father Latak keeps his eyes glued to him all the time. (dramatic music) Passages like this one, a foretaste of the difficulties which experience has shown will be awaiting them in the course of this journey. Latak and Thinly take no risks, their responsibility for the children is too great. This time everything works out fine. (speaking foreign language) But the next problem is just around the corner. The river levels have risen during the night. Water has run across the ice cover and another ice layer has formed, a treacherous one indeed. Moving forward on the river becomes ever more difficult. The danger intensifies as the route leads downhill. As the group advances towards the valley the warmer it gets. The ice on the rocks gets thinner and thinner. (dramatic music) Here the ice has already broken away from the edge of the rock. (speaking foreign language) The fathers decide to examine the next few meters on their own without children. The danger of breaking through and slipping into the water is too great. (dramatic music) If they can't continue on the ice they must avoid it by moving across the rocks. (speaking foreign language) -: Can we cross here? From up above or from here? -: No, it's impossible from here we have to climb the other way. (dramatic music) Narrator: At all costs the Latak wants to avoid a dangerous climb and takes another close look at the narrow parts. (dramatic music) No chance at all, they have to climb over the rocks. (speaking foreign language) Falling is only one of the fears that trouble Latak. (speaking foreign language) -: What can one say about that Chadar? Three years ago a boy broke through the ice and died. I knew the boy. That's not allowed to happen, and shouldn't ever happen, that's what I pray for. (dramatic music) The men have to investigate whether the rock is passable at all here. (dramatic music) It seems possible. Moreover, they don't really have a choice. (speaking foreign language) The fathers decide to carry the luggage over to the other side first. (dramatic music) It's a balancing act and a very dangerous one too, more so with 30 kilograms of weight on their backs. (dramatic music) Thinly fights his way up the rock inch-by-inch in his rubber boots. The higher he climbs the more difficult the passage gets, the rock ledge is the crux. Far more narrow, steep and difficult, the descent to the river. Thinly grips his way down without safety ropes. One false step and he falls into the river together with his backpack. (speaking foreign language) Done even without safety equipment. They somehow managed. While the children are still completely unaware of the dangerous situation, Latak sets off with the remaining luggage. (dramatic music) So far the Chadar has worked out well for the children. Now the first really great challenge on their way to school lies ahead of them. First up, Motuk and Dakar. (speaking foreign language) (dramatic music) The adults split up in a way so that they can help the children at the most dangerous spots. (speaking foreign language) (speaking foreign language) The fathers do not carry ropes or any security devices, should Motuk slip, Thinly must by all means catch him. (speaking foreign language) Now once more it gets really steep. (speaking foreign language) One slip and fall into the cold water and the river would instantly carry away the children. (speaking foreign language) The fear is written all over Motuk's face. (speaking foreign language) (dramatic music) But in the end everyone manages the dangerous passage across the rocks. -: I was afraid while climbing, but it was also fun. The mountains are high and it's scary to look down. (upbeat music) Narrator: Done. The next passage is easier especially on the sleigh. From time to time the clear ice surfaces, the right moment to catch a breath. (upbeat music) -: Like this the way to school is fun and time flies for the next few kilometers. (speaking foreign language) -: On the Chadar I like riding the sleigh the most. because it feels like sitting in a little car, it is a lot of fun. Narrator: The next day, day three, the weather has suddenly changed. The fathers had been expecting this already yesterday, it's snowing. Fresh snow means rising temperatures and therefore rising water levels here in the narrowest and steepest part of the canyon. This could have serious consequences. (dramatic music) Today they're great for playing with, at high water, the iron bars serve as a footbridge across the river. If they too are beneath water level there is no way forward, then the river becomes impassable at this point. (speaking foreign language) -: I've never been held up here by high water, but I've heard of people that had to go around this place and they needed an extra two days because of high water. (soft music) Last time Latak was standing in the water up to his belly. It quickly becomes obvious that again, he and the children will not get away from the high water. An approaching group knows what it looks like over there on the river. Man In Red Hat: Hello how are you? -: What does it look like over there? Man In Red Hat: High water, it's up to here. (speaking foreign language) Latak: Up to the knee? Man In Red Hat: Yeah. -: Up to where exactly? Man In Red Hat: Up to here, now to here. Narrator: In fact the condition of the ice coverage is ominous, menacing, worrisome, threatening. How high the water actually is becomes evident only when the school children and their fathers are right in the middle of it because the water level may suddenly rise within minutes. (speaking foreign language) To dodge into the rocks once again is absolutely impossible. They are too steep here. Thinly urges them to hurry up. -: Okay, that's not a lot of water let's go. Not over there come here. Narrator: Latak dares to go on to this passage together with the two boys and Teshma, the rubber boots are impermeable, but not lined. The feet immediately turned ice cold and that hurts. (speaking foreign language) For the moment Dokar stays behind. Her boots are not high enough. (speaking foreign language) In the middle of the river levels seem to decrease a little again, but the children are now ice cold in their boots. Jordan can't go on any longer, after 200 meters, he is absolutely exhausted and needs to be carried. A little later the water gets deeper once again. Now it seeps into the rubber boots. (dramatic music) (speaking foreign language) At least Motuk has stayed dry. In contrast to Jordan. (speaking foreign language) Water has seeped into his boots at these icy temperatures. (dramatic music) Luckily, his father has taken precautions, and has a fresh pair of socks for him. (upbeat music) Latak has now waded back to fetch Dokar. (speaking foreign language) (soft music) Everything is completely wet at minus 30 degrees. (soft music) Thinly didn't pack extra dry socks for himself though, and so the old ones in the wet rubber boots will have to do. (dramatic music) Latak must cross the river three times, for Dokar one piggyback ride is already enough. -: I was very afraid here a moment ago. It feels as if you're falling into the river but I like the climbing. Narrator: Day four, the destination seems within reach. Only a few minor tricky passages lie ahead of them now. (speaking foreign language) Motuk and the others are in a hurry to reach the town now. On the one hand they are simply tired out after 90 kilometers of marching, and on the other hand the rising temperatures are melting the ice more and more. (dramatic music) Here a few kilometers away from the road leading to Li, once again gets really dangerous. (dramatic music) The edges of the ice on both sides of the river are very thin. (dramatic music) The current and the warmth have almost cleared the river of ice, again the rocks are the only way out. (dramatic music) Going up seems to be less tiring this time, but going down. (dramatic music) This detour so shortly before the end is very hard for the students. (speaking foreign language) Especially Jordan who is so exhausted he can hardly walk anymore. He repeatedly loses his balance. (dramatic music) (dramatic music) (yells) (speaking foreign language) -: The fact that we went over the rocks once again was not so bad, but sometimes I was afraid too. Because from the top it feels like you are looking down a high steep wall. Narrator: But then the children have made it. After about 100 kilometers on the river, a steep path forks off towards the street. The last real obstacle on the way to school in Li. Now the fathers two are exhausted. (dramatic music) They want to freshen themselves up a little before arriving at the big town. (dramatic music) At the end of the school holidays share taxis are waiting for fathers and children who have to return to school appear in the middle of nowhere. It's another 60 kilometers to Leh. Motuk, Jordan, Dokar and Teshma are totally tired. They fall asleep immediately and are too exhausted to be glad to have made it across the river. (dramatic music) Two hours later they reach Leh. (dramatic music) After a four day expedition the boys arrive at the school gate. The girls attended different, bigger school, they have to drive on. Here at the stairs of the Jamyang School, one of the most dangerous ways to school on earth ends for Motuk and Jordan. And school begins. (speaking foreign language) Together with their fathers they register for the new school year. Only a few steps away is Motuk's dormitory. (dramatic music) The 10 year old shares his bedroom with seven fellow students. (dramatic music) Two of the boys have already arrived, they come from remote valleys. Their way to school is much shorter so their parents can visit them from time to time, in marked contrast to Motuk. (dramatic music) -: Of course I'm a bit sad, but at the same time I am happy to meet my friends again, but it's still very sad because my dad brought me here and now he has to leave. Narrator: A few minutes later it's time to go. The fathers must quickly return due to the rising temperatures. After only half an hour they say goodbye to their sons without further ado. (speaking foreign language) -: Don't be cheeky, don't start fighting, and be good at school, take good care of each other. (dramatic music) -: It feels bad, very sad, I feel like crying. Leaving the children behind like that. It's just sad. -: But we don't cry because we don't want to set a bad example, it might make them want to cry even more, that's why we try to control ourselves and just leave quickly. Narrator: Latak and Thinly quickly set out because of the unpredictable conditions on the river. They don't know how long the ice will last and do not want to waste time. (chatter) The next day is a Saturday, the beginning of the new school year. (singing in foreign language) Everyone in Motuk's school starts with a Buddhist prayer. Dokar's school lies at the upper end of town, here too everyone prays, then the headmaster holds an introductory speech for the new school year. (speaking foreign language) Dokar's school is much bigger. After the morning assembly 1,400 students go to their classrooms. (chatter) (speaking foreign language) -: Okay, how are you? All: Fine sir. Narrator: Dokar is in the seventh grade now, she's got math class or rather, The Joy of Mathematics. Motuk now is in the fifth grade, and he swiftly receives a pile of new books, one luxury the school of his home village does not offer. (chatter) (gong being struck) Lunchtime, all 300 students of the Jamyang School assemble in the auditorium. They're having rice and lentils served by the so called foster mothers. (chatter) for Motuk the foster mothers are the people to whom he relates most closely at boarding school. They live together with him in the residential home and support their fosterling not only practically, but also morally. One of them is Domasekey. -: When the children return from holidays at first they miss their parents very much. Their mother, their dad, but after a week everything returns to normal again, we let the children play, we divide them into different groups. We console them, and slowly they calm down. (dramatic music) Narrator: Time will heal the painful farewells. Motuk and Jordan have found a surrogate family here at school. Their fathers Latak and Thinly are back on the Chadar. Ahead of them lies a long and dangerous way, and no one knows what surprises it holds in store. (upbeat music)
