Hello and welcome on Watches TV. Today we took our Watch Mobil II, up to the
Valley de Joux to go and see Mr. Friedman from the Audemars Piguet. We're going to talk about some of the latest
timepieces that we haven't yet talked on WatchesTV. So let's go. We now in the center register at the fabulous
and stunning AP Musee Atelier. If you guys want to know a little bit more
about this place, when I clearly invite you to check the walk through we did together
of this incredible place, because it's really worth visiting for sure. Today we're going to talk about a few watches
as you can see. Let's talk about the new Code 11.59 and you
come with bi-colored version, bi-material version, something we had already seen a little bit
once. Tell us a little bit more about that. Absolutely. In fact, I'm going to hand you the rose gold
ceramic version while I hold onto the white gold ceramic version. Remember when we launched Code 11.59 a couple
of years back. The real focal point of this collection was
to showcase hand finishing in a highly contemporary case. Can we create a case that's truly a canvas
for hand finishers in a way that only AP can do, in a way that's in the design language
that's really native to us. That's part of our continuous story of unconventional
case design and as well as the encountering of different finishing techniques within the
same watch to give that great play of light? The complexity of the case construction was
easier to work with the softness of gold, which is why we started there, but there was
always the goal to get some other materials integrated into the watch. As you mentioned, the first time we did a
two-tone tone was the only watch 2019, which was the 26600 Tourbillon manual-wound, that
had a white and rose two-tone tone. We were already getting closer on the ceramic
middle case and we finally been able to achieve it. What's really wonderful about the final version. It gives a lighter sense. Literally and figuratively the watch is a
little lighter, but it also feels lighter. It brings it even further into the contemporary
space, but most importantly is it really showcases that finishing in yet another different way
than the gold versions. It's really a true counterpart. We're really excited that Code 11.59 is now
the next collection to include our use of hand-finished ceramics. I'm just going to jump a little bit in the
future. Would it be possible to have the ceramic on
the opposite side, meaning that it's from the outside? Was it too complex to do in those kinds of
materials? The complexity in the construction as possible,
what it comes down to is the tolerance of the case, the brittleness of it. Because ceramic is an incredible material
in the sense that it's very difficult to scratch, but of course it can shatter, it can chip,
and it can break. That's the concern of the ceramic on the top
and the bottom of those portions of the watch, that we wouldn't be able to do it yet. Right now it doesn't seem plausible or possible,
but there are other alternative materials which we're also looking into as well. Let's jump to the next new watches within
evolution of the Offshore Diver and with some practical feature finally there. Definitely, we do have some more practical
features on these watches. As you recall, the origin of the Diver at
Audemars Piguet goes all the way back to 2005. It's been quite awhile. The first version was called the Scuba and
the Diver over time has really taken on a life of its own, it has a really strong collector
base. We really felt it was time for an evolution
of this watch. What we see here are three features that really
differentiate the watch from the previous versions. First and foremost it's the new generation
movement. It's a new caliber, the same caliber we introduced
on the Code three-hand collection, but it's been adapted for Offshore. Some changes were made so the designation
went from 4302 to 4308 with a very, very contemporary oscillating mass and beautiful finishing,
number one. Number two-tone, the dials are a little bit
different. The tapisserie is a little more pronounced,
a little larger. I feels again, we try to modernize it, which is going
to be the theme of Offshore today, is modernizing a collection, it's starting to show its age
a little bit in that sense. Then along those lines, when you look at the
dial you're going to see each of them have a very distinct flange with two different
colors. The idea is each of these Divers are going
to be sold with two-tone straps in which you can then swap the straps out very readily
yourself and with no tools. That's the other, I would say big development,
was this interchangeable strap system which you can see right there. You click the two-tone buttons, pop it off
and then you can switch the colors around. That was something that we really wanted to
be able to introduce in a fun, easy way and give that sense of personality to the watch
and individual nature to the watch. We've been listening to our clients, what
are they looking for? What have they customized on their own? What are some approaches that we could take
that we might not have thought of before? By the way, just jumping back to Code, this
is a great example. This textured rubber strap was not part of
the original collection. They were on much more traditional straps
beforehand. By putting this textured rubber strap on,
it really modernize the watch a little bit more, made it a little easier, more comfortable
to wear in all seasons. All of the new generation Offshores in the
Diver and the new 43s which we'll get to soon, all have this interchangeable strap system. What's really cool, if you have an older 42
millimeter, you're we're even going to be able to introduce a kit so you can put the
interchangeable straps system. You can retrofit. That's the goal. We're working on it now, it should be ready
next year. Interesting. Which will be fun, and you can go back as
well. If you're a purist, don't worry, you're not
changing your End of Days, your earlier watch. You're just doing an adaptation and then you
can bring it back as well. Something also is that, because I had never
seen this before, but you also have kind of an interchangeable buckle it's really..
Yes, exactly. The buckle pops off as well. You can change your strap and your buckle
easily, because otherwise you would need a buckle for each strap and that could get quite
expensive. For sure. It takes some of the fun away. Talking about fun, and we're going to talk
about other watches a little bit different. Let's go before classical. Here we have also some pretty sweet new Royal
Oaks. Oh, that's a nice one to grab. The green dial tourbillon, the titanium. Kind of strange that you grabbed this one
first. Complication, that's what I'm paid to do. Looking after the complications. We're really excited with the Royal Oaks this
year. Right now we're looking, as you mentioned,
the more classic Royal Oaks. These are beautiful interpretations that we've
done for the year. We could have waited until next year for the
celebration. We wanted to go ahead and continue showing
the evolution of the new self-winding flying tourbillon which we introduced in the titanium
rose and steel at the end of last year. Coming with some new dial colors and some
new details. What you just mentioned is even more pertinent,
when you take into consideration that recent announcements on the fact that the 15202 is
maybe of the past. That's right. The one in my hand over here, the 15202, I
think you're referring to when, Francois, during the AP Live mentioned that the 15202
will be finished. Let's be clear on that so there's no confusion. Because we've heard many people either upset
or intrigued, "How can they do this?" The good news is that 39 millimeter Royal
Oak aka the Jumbo will never go away. Remember historically it's already gone through
multiple different names. What will be interesting for us to all discover
sooner than later, is what else other than the designation is changing. I can tell you these aesthetics are going
to continue to be respectful, the dimensions to the original. We're not going to depart from the design,
but there are some other changes coming and you can deduce what those changes might be. What warrants a new reference number is the
question. You can start to put that together yourself. We can have a little game on about this. There you go. I think you're going to be really excited. We're going to come next year with some really
exciting interpretations and representations of the Royal Oak. Some are going to be somewhat expected and
others are going to be very, very unexpected. We want to do some things that we know will
be instant classics and well loved, but it's also really important to keep moving things
forward as well. New movements, new movement designs, new case
architectures, new updates, making sure we continue to challenge the artisans, the watchmakers,
the technicians, the engineers. Making sure that they're not just representing
the past and recreating the past, but also forging into the future as well. We continue to see evolution as a field. To find balance, to find that-
Absolutely. We have a last model here on this tray and
it's quite a special one too, right? Indeed. I know you're into yellow gold, correct? Something classy about a yellow gold watch? I surprised myself with this, but indeed that's
pretty cool. No, come on, yellow gold is timeless, it's
beautiful. We don't do large volumes at Audemars Piguet
of yellow gold, but we're always jumping in and out of it and there's more to come with
yellow gold. It has its own appeal, its own texture, its
own aspects to it. Especially when we couple it with unusual
dials like we see here with this beautiful green dial. Now, what's interesting on this watch is as
you recall, we announced that we will be replacing the F. Piguet movements in the gold versions
with our in-house movement all ready now. The new rose gold versions of the Royal Oak
chronograph will be fitted with our brand new in-house, the same chronograph movement
that we see over here on the Code 11.59. Which means by implication that a model like
this will be among the very last precious metal Royal Oak chronographs to be produced
which have a closed case back and that F. Piguet movement. It's really the end of an era in that sense,
something special. We wanted to do it in yellow gold to give
that nice pronounced feel, and to really close this chapter with something different, something
fun. With that yellow gold Royal Oak case that
even has a touch of vintage, isn't it? There's a little vintage feel when you see
a yellow gold Royal Oak, especially on a chronograph model. We're really pleased to be moving on and closing
that chapter, but having said that, the F. Piguet caliber has been incredible for us. It has been a great partnership for us to
be able to utilize that wonderful movement, we're super proud of the in-house movement. We also are proud of the long history we had
of the Royal Oak chronograph with that excellent F. Piguet integrated movement. You'll still see a few of them around as we
phase that out and as we phase in the in-house movement. Almost a tribute watch? Almost a tribute watch, I like that. I like that. Absolutely. Let's jump to the next new watches. Again, Offshore. What's new here? Definitely. What's new here, is really we're creating
an entirely new category, a new collection within the Royal Oak Offshore. This is, first and foremost, a brand new case
size. We've come with a 43 millimeter Royal Oak
Offshore. As you recall, we had the 42 all the way back
to 1993 when it was introduced, The Beast, which was a big pronounced watch, thick. Different from anything that AP or really
any other traditional watch brand had done when it comes to sports watches. It was part of that era. You and I are old enough to remember the early
'90s. There was extreme sports, extreme travel,
extreme everything. Everything was big and bold and getting a
little crazy and very public as well. We were part of that cultural dialogue and
responded with the Royal Oak Offshore. Now, here we are a significant time later
and we love the 42, the classic dimensions, we're keeping it in the collection, it's still
going to be there. The Beast will exist in a couple of different
versions. We thought about ergonomics a lot when we
were thinking about what can we do with the Offshore to modernize it? How do we bring the Offshore into the future
while still keeping the original one? This is the latest chapter in this journey. The new 43-millimeter case dimensions, the
pusher profile is very different. The crown guard is different from what we've
done before. It brings a much edgier look to it, but you
can also see a beautiful curvature to the watch and to the elements of it so it really
hugs your wrist. It sits on your wrist better and that was
the ultimate goal. Again, I mentioned it a moment ago, was feel
ergonomics. That's the question we're asking on all of
our watches right now. One of the huge successes of Royal Oak was
that Gérald Genta had been a designer of women's watches. He knew how a watch should feel, not just
how a watch should look. It's a very important reminder for us to think
of all of these pieces it can look great, it can be your identity, it can express who
you are, but it also really needs to feel as best as possible. The other big changes are the tapisserie dial,
which we have a new mega tapisserie where the corners of the squares are a little different
if you look carefully. They're a little rounded out, a little more
texture there on the dial, new different colors. We have, of course, the ceramic elements implemented,
which is quite fun, man, because you wouldn't think of a Code 11.59 chrono and an Offshore
sharing DNA at a quick glance. When you're here with the two-tone of them
together, and you look at them together, you really see very, very much the same brush
strokes from the same artist in that sense, utilizing the same paints. The canvas is different, but everything else
is the same. Then lastly, we talked about the movement. We talked about the dial, and once again,
we have these interchangeable strap system, so very, very easy to swap it around. I see something sticking out of your jacket
there. You know what my field is. Look, I had complications, we also wanted
to make sure that the new generation Offshore was represented with a very, very highly complex
watch. Recently, not so long ago, just really at
the end of last year, on Code 11.59, we introduced the new generation of selfwinding flying tourbillon
with flyback chronograph. The first generation over here on this watch
was designed for Code, and you can see the bridges they're beautifully executed, very,
very contemporary, but also refined. This was the movement that was utilized as
the base for the Royal Oak Offshore. The movement was re-engineered, most importantly,
the bridges were completely redesigned and changed to be more in the design language
of Offshore. This is the first publicly available 43 millimeter
Royal Oak Offshore in the new dimensions. It's the selfwinding flying tourbillon with
flyback chronograph, based on the same movement introduced on Code. The Code was a limited edition of 50 pieces
in white gold and 52 tone, and now we've done this Offshore in titanium in a limited edition
of 100 watches. What's fun about that, is it gives a longer
lifespan to the base movement, while giving the designers, and the artisans, and the engineers
so much work to play with, and to experiment with, and to make proposals with. It really gives us a whole think tank process
which is different from R&D, because the R&D happened already on this movement. Now, we're really in a more design experimentation. This movement will have a lifespan again,
going into several years or even beyond, and we'll take other interpretations for other
collections in the future but of course, we want to keep evolving it. This generation starting with the Code and
then onto the Offshore as mentioned, we've done the automatic before we did that on the
Concept two years ago, but this is the first time with flying tourbillon and flyback chronograph
initially on the Code and then year two on the Offshore. Different oscillating masses. You'll see even the organization of the mechanism
on the back is a little different. The caliber does not have the same designation,
even though it's utilizing the same base. When we make enough changes on a caliber,
we have to change the name for internal and external purposes. Internally, you can't call two movements the
same that are fundamentally different, different quantity of parts, etc. Then, of course, it's also important for the
clients and the market and the journalists to be able to clearly distinguish between
the different calibers as well. I believe this was 2952 and this became 2967. The prefix remains the same, the 29, but then
the suffix, the last two digits changes depending on the design of the watch. All right. Is there anything else we can add in terms
of where AP is going? Just little hints of something here and there? I'd have to be careful not to reveal too much,
you know my boss, I have to watch it. Look, we still have some great releases. We know he's sword. That's right. I can dodge pretty quickly though. I've learned after getting hit a few times
you know, a joke. We still have some great pieces coming between
now and the end of the year, so we're going to have more communications later on in the
year. Another wave of releases later on in the year,
and you're going to see some wonderful interpretations again, across the collections. I would say Royal Oak, maybe we take a breather
on knowing what's coming up around the corner. Most of the Royal Oaks for the year we've
dropped. We're going to give a little breath before
2022 comes, but keep your eyes open for what's coming with Concept, what's coming with Code. Later on in the year some really, really great
things coming, and then at the end of the year and into next year, it's really going
to be a fun journey. As I mentioned, we're going to make sure we
haven't stacked all the eggs in one basket. 2022 it's going to be electric. It's going to be a lot of fun for Royal Oak,
but make no mistake, 2023, we're going to be coming out of that anniversary year also
strong. Not forgetting where we just were with Royal
Oak, but also looking at some new interpretations and new ideas across the collections. Don't forget you have Offshore, you have Concept,
you have Royal Oak. ReMaster 02 might rear its head at some point
in the future as well. 01 really meant something. It did to a lot of people. It meant something to a lot of people. We'll see what the future holds for that one
as well. Nothing too soon on that, we really take our
time. I think you're already pretty busy there. We're pretty busy, we need to pace, we need
to make sure. And also, we talked about this once before. At Audemars Piguet, we're at capacity and
our production limitations aren't a choice. It's not to create scarcity, we're at capacity
we can't produce more watches until we hire more watchmakers and train them for the extensive
finishings, machine finishings, and of course, hand finishings, and that's the goal. We know we can make a little bit more, but
we have to do it step-by-step. When we introduce any new model or any new
interpretation, two things happen, either older models need to be discontinued or production
quantities have to be adjusted accordingly. This is a challenge and we recognize that
which is why for perpetuals or tourbillons, jumping to complications, the rarity it's
across the board. Because every time we introduce a new one,
even if it's only 100 watches, that means 100 less of something else. That's gives a little window into the positive
challenges that we have because you want to deliver the hits. You want to make sure that you're satisfying
clients who are looking for what they view as the ultimate Audemars Piguet watch. it's also important to try new things, new
interpretations, new designs, new aesthetics, otherwise, we're never going to forge into
the future. We would have never arrived at that Offshore
without the Code coming first. Those portals between the collections are
so important. Each collection has their own identity, but
they certainly can communicate with each other with each other in that sense. All right. Well, thank you for all this insight, and
looking forward to coming back to check some of these new watches. You're welcome anytime. We love having you guys. Thank you so much! Thank you, guys! Well, hope you enjoyed this. See you soon and Viva Watchmaking! Take care!
