Mini Bandpass Enclosure Series - Full Build Plans and Demo!

in a previous video I notified you guys of my miniature enclosure series so if you would like to take a peek at the plans and see a demo stick around we got there and more coming right up [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] what is going on guys it's the budget base ed welcome back to the channel for anybody who has been here for a while you guys know that I love bad passing closures right now what you see on the table are three different enclosures two of them are vampires first up you got the vented enclosure this is a classical Porter design that many manufactures do put out this one right here is fitted all of these are fitted for a four inch driver second up is gonna be a four thought of bandpass it does have like one to three ratio fourth order classically is one steel section one important section as you guys can see there you got chamber one being a point three cubic foot chamber tube and point eight and the port tuning is 100 Hertz port displacement is point zero one four cubic foot very small enclosures next up is the sixth order bandpass enclosures this chamber is also one two three volume ratio chamber one is point three cubic foot chamber two is 408 cubic foot that chamber is tune of 70 Hertz that's the smaller chamber and the larger chamber is actually tuned to 35 Hertz in this video I'll be going behind the scenes and letting you guys know how I got all this conducted later on I would actually share with you why I started this here but for right now let's go take a look behind the scenes and see first what it is you guys would be dealing with once again with any great build you're gonna need some floor plans and you're also gonna need some tools to work with so that's kind of what you guys are looking at right these are the flat packs for all of the builds this is the one for the fourth order and the six order and as you guys can see is actually an additional one on the table that's because I actually have one for a folded horn as well first thing first the biggest tool out a lot is this drill press right here Harbor Freight special pick this guy for about a year and a half ago and it's really really good for drilling straight holes and when you have need for that this is an old black & decker jigsaw I actually was this was actually given to me by one of my neighbors a long time ago it really has served me well drill bits very very important when you're doing wood work get you a fresh pair of drill bits I've had these guys here going on a year and a half or so picked them up at the big-box store I believe it was Home Depot pay less than 20 bucks for them they've done me well next up is gonna be a some type of drill hand drill doesn't have to be a court in this one like this matrix from Black & Decker but just get yourself a drill very handy and a sender you don't have to have an electric sender like I do but this is an orbital one orbiting orbit in one from Walmart brand hyper tough very cheap very efficient it gets the job done it's late way better than doing things by hand and of course if you're working with glue would get yourself some wood glue get them take everything all worth Wow a lot of people think that it's the screws that hold things together with wood is usually the clamping force and glue the glue really is the star of the show and let it do it for the tool is up next what you guys are seeing is a second okay here we go with the drill press right now what you guys are looking at is just me getting ready to do it a guide hole this is really the most effective way to get a hole start at any time you have to do a center hole like what I'm gonna be doing right now I mean if any time you have to cut a hole in the center of a piece of wood like this get your hole big enough for your jigsaw to go in and make life a whole lot easier that's what I'm gonna do to all these guys next up is working with the jigsaw once again just keep it simple try to not make this too big always try too small in the beginning and right now if you have a circle jig this would be a lot easier I have a circle jig it just was a lot quicker to work with this with circles you have to make many many passes going deeper and deeper until you punch out of the wood and with four different enclosures to do I didn't feel like doing all that so I just went and got the jig it's a lot easier especially with half-inch wood this is half-inch MDF if anyone is curious about that and this would be the speaker that I'm gonna be putting inside of this enclosure a little bit more on this guy a little bit later and what you want to see is no light going through those holes and there we go achieve that plus is gonna have a gasket as well but air tight fit nonetheless and once again just give me another look at the baffles these are the flat packs at the end of what you're doing this is gonna be the fourth order I think that's the base reflux or the simple Porter Porter design this is the folded hold on I was talking about this is what the base reflux so the other one was actually the fourth order bandpass the bass reflex had a smallest flat pack and that's to be expected and this is the six order which has the largest flat pack because it's more material and that's that on that right now what you guys are looking at is the six sort of bandpass I'm sorry yeah this is the six sort of bandpass plans always start out in this virtual environment first before I cut any wood always do your measurements in here this is Google Sketchup I'm sorry it used to be called Google Sketchup nowadays it's owned by a company named tremble I don't know if Google owns that or tremble bought them out but most people still call it the Google Sketchup but maybe Google still owns it I don't know but this is an aerial view of the sixth order and as you guys can see here in the virtual environment I have a dual baffle but at the end I thought that was overkill for a four inch driver so I did not incorporate a dual baffle within the actual build but yeah so this is all my port tuning this is 70 Hertz and 35 Hertz and this is what the floor plan looks like I forget what size but I think that's a 4 foot by 2 foot sheet of plywood in case you guys are wondering next up is the six order this is what it looked like dry fitted I always drive fit everything together before you do any mailing or gluing always drop it to make sure your your pieces fit together and everything that was in the virtual world has translated over to the real world and in my case that was a few a few glitches that I'd get on made some mistakes on the table saw but other than that everything came out looking pretty pretty pretty good I was satisfied with it so basically what I'm gonna be doing here is taking my measurements making sure everything fit well and then just doing a reversal on the flat pad next up is going to be the base reflux box most people just call this a simple ported or vented enclosure and this is where all of this started in case you guys are wondering why's this kind of making these little bitty boxes this is a sealed chamber right here I was curious about this set of bookshelf speakers that I have there they sound excellent one from Dave Mario and I wondered if I can better that build and that's when I started messing around with different designs right here you see an aerial view of my cubic footage is for sport displacement and things of that nature I do everything here in the software first figure out what that stuff is tune everything else later as well but it all starts here before you cut any wood get you a program such as this it'll save you a lot of time and effort and that's what everything is supposed to look like once this fully assembled but anyway the date 90o mk4 zero two's is a good sounding set of bookshelf speakers but I wanted to make it better so I went off in here and say if I give it a bigger chamber to knit lower giving more portaria with a sound better and from there my imagination just went crazy so that's why you got these videos and right now what you're looking at is the flat pack for the 4th water based reflex I'm just gonna be getting everything set up making certain that all my parts fit together like I said once again dry fitting you want to make sure everything fits together dry before you mess around but put it together because that's the worst thing to do is just spend all that time putting this thing together just to have it some-something either is in the wrong place or the wrong dimension especially when you you're gonna see once we get off into the 4 to 6 orders a lot of these these internal ports and things that nature are the same length and you can get them jacked up as far as I miss placing them right now is the fourth order you got your sales section on the left and you got your portage section on the right and as you can see I did leave the hum the measurement for my port displacement there which is point zero one for cubic foot again very very small but just keep in mind guys anything you do on this scale you can actually scale up this is a four inch drive or so in theory you can you can times this up multiply this by three and you got a twelve inch driver you see so that's kind of like one way of looking at of course some things will change because the TS parameters were changed but in short and on that seal shell just to keep it simple this is just a smaller version of what you would actually build for a larger driver here are more dimensions for this piece once again this is the fourth order bandpass enclosure port tuning is I think is I actually tune this thing later on I want to say at a hundred a hundred Hertz is what I tuned it to and this is the cut sheet once again I believe that's a two by four piece of wood and once again this is the flat pack for the fourth order just getting things set up making sure everything fit before I actually mess around we're putting any glue to any of this stuff that's very very important and as you guys can see I'm having some issues right there with we're putting stuff together because one of my walls were in the wrong place and this is what it looks like [Music] I must say I had fun building these guys I had a whole lot of fun I hope you guys are enjoying this as much as I am a lot of time was spent on this I mean you're talking about over 250 hours of video footage that I cut through just to give you guys this video so if someone you're looking like oh this thing is very very long just know that um it's not as long as it could've been but anyway right now what you guys are seeing it's me just making certain that my baffles are are correctly aligned with the speaker in the way that I want to put this driver I'm gonna be using a drill press to get this done the correct way the correct way these are all my bits that I'm using using a drill press so some people probably like what I can't afford a drill press I don't have a drill press why are you even using a drill press why not use a hand tool but the reason why you want to use a drill press is because the drill press is it gives you the straightest possible hole so anytime you're mounting something like this you want that hole not to be like slanted because then that would ruin your whole setup so if you want the straightest hole possible especially when building furniture and things of that nature use a drill press whenever you can use a drill press and right now what you guys are seeing is a glue job is the beginning of the glue job on the vanity enclosure or the the bass reflex one and as you guys can see the inner port there is already glued I find this very very helpful when you're doing bills like this is to take those inner ports and just go ahead and glue them together because if you glue them together it'll make life a whole lot more year I've seen people struggle with sliding port walls internally once they've gotten the X what they would do they were externally glue things together then slide the ports in and a lot of times they catch hell doing that because the wood don't want to slide incorrectly and sometimes you can either have the port slanted so the bottom of the port will be wider than the top or vice versa so in order to get away with that or to not run into that problem in the beginning kind of do what I'm going to show you right here right now I'm gonna take I already preassembled port when I'm gonna attach it to the to the baffle and the way I do that if you guys can see I'm gonna use the speed square you see that I'm stuck this this B square what that's gonna do is make certain that that the dad is at a ninety degree angle so that when I place it back onto the when I fit it back to the enclosure I don't have to worry about my walls and my ports being not you know not being correct and at the end this is kind of what it looks like in the rough I went ahead I slapped the drivers in there just to see what it looks like what they what they fit like after the glue has dried and I must say you know they are already looking impressive to me and the one I'm most curious about actually is the bass reflex one because in my mind I'm like I think I may have made the chamber a little bit too big and the bigger you go with the chamber the you start to lose punch I didn't really like Keira care all that much about it I know it wasn't gonna sound perfect but the music that I listen to and the you know the videos that I listen to that I'm gonna plan on be less listen to this thing too it doesn't cause for a lot of punchy bass you know so I'm not worried about it that is the fourth order bass reflex this is the sixth order bandpass right here and I'm just checking my measurements once again just to make certain that everything is right where it's supposed to be that's 16 inches like it's supposed to be like if you didn't make those walls and straight and use that if I didn't use that speed square like I did the top of this can be instead of it can be 1/4 up to 1/4 inch or more off because you allowed the wood to straight at some point you didn't keep it perfectly straight but in this case it wasn't the case and everything's looking good just another look at the the ports I did around everything over I didn't show you the guys that I didn't want to make this video too long but as you guys can see the ports all around it internally and externally anywhere where a tear will travel I did try and round it over for that purpose yeah and that's kind of what I'm showing you guys right here I know some people are gonna say well where is the bracing I mean what a four inch driver it's not gonna flex 1/2 inch MDF I just don't see that happening so I didn't even I didn't put any additional bracing in there I could have done it just for display purposes or whatever but I thought what was more important as the airflow so I focused on that more and that'll do it for that all right so we're looking at right now is the tops so we have to fashion the tops to the enclosure now these are testing closes believe in line for the time being so what I would head and did is I went ahead and made this way this thing is gonna be removable at the top I'm gonna be able to access to this and to be able to service this whenever a need be and that's what you guys are seeing right now the process of me doing that right now you know what you're looking at is the terminal cup that goes on the back it actually has a crossover on the back of it as well these are these are parts from the MK 4:02 bookshelf speaker it's disassembled and I'm just using its parts okay in order to do this what you see right here are the wood inserts that I'm gonna be using I think these are M full wood inserts yes that's what that is these are M fours and I also have the screws sitting over there so that's the hardware that I'm gonna be needing in order to complete this of what I'm gonna do so I want like I said I want to make a detachable and it has to be airtight as well I'm gonna show you guys later on how I get it airtight [Music] and of course you can't get this job done without drill bits you gotta have these real the other one was about the welt and these are by actually forgot just a quick and you're like three set of drill bits and some tape so what we're gonna be doing now is getting this thing taped up that's very important because once you get the drilling on this thing you do not want it to wonder or stray you don't want it to so you want to go ahead and and get that out of the way get it get it locked down as secure as possible and right now I'm gonna get this this this plate right here on my drill press I don't need that plate so I'm gonna go ahead and get that guy out of the way and this is what I'm gonna be sitting the box on top of right here and that's how I'm going to be drilling but one thing I want you guys to notice about it this this I don't have enough to play with here so what I'm gonna do is add some extra material there and that'll help me out right now I'm just gonna get my pilot holes drilled I think this is a 1/8 it's real bit that I'm using right here I'm just gonna be stepping through getting it and I didn't drill every hole I kind of went overkill on my plan it's like come on you don't need all them holes so I didn't I didn't drill them I just got the corners in the middle sections that's for both the poorest in the walls and that's about it this is me chucking the little guy out and I'm gonna have to put the big guy in it's all about selection right now what I'm trying to do is just size the correct drill bit for the wood insert you won't want a slightly smaller then the drill bit I mean then they would insert and this is what I came up with this is this guy right here and as you guys see once I place it over top the only thing you see sticking out is the threads and that's what you want you only wanted threads sticking out you want the body of it to actually go inside I'm just showing you guys I think it's a 13 something couldn't get it on camera there it is 13 by 64 and the 3 by 16 - I'm using I wanted one a slightly larger as well before - uh just give me an added security and just in case the one I choose it's too small just go up step up do it like that so get that guy inserted chuck it down and we're relatively ready to drill right here just as we did with the pilot holes we're just gonna be going around making sure things fit before we continue and there we go all right so right now what you guys are looking at is the countersinks you're gonna have to get this countersunk because the I'm sorry give you guys the reveal of what it looks like once I actually finish with it so those transferred perfectly the schematics on top is very crucial to a project like this always get your schematics drawing on top right now I'm testing the the wood insert and it looks like it fits pretty good and now I want to test is the length of these screws right here and the reason why this is important is because I'm gonna air tight I'm gonna I want to air tight seal so I'm gonna be building a gasket and this doesn't seem like it's sticking out long enough the gasket itself is a quarter inch tall so that thing only looks like it was sticking out about a quarter-inch so I'm gonna have to get some countersinks and we're gonna have to countersink that so once I choose the right one full of that I'm gonna use the hands real for this so some of you probably are wondering why use your hands real now you use a drill press before well the drill press have already gotten it straight for me you want just that straight hole to transfer all the way through but once you do that you can just use a drill bit and be done I mean use a hand tool and be done with it just cleaning things up right now and now I'm gonna go over here and see some damage that idea kind of widening those holes on those corners kind of damaged something a bit but it's okay cuz I'm gonna round I plan on rounding them over in the future anyway so that shouldn't be a big deal not a major deal case you guys are wondering what drill bit was sighs to use for that there you go and as you guys can see now I have a lot more left than I did at first and that was the goal so right now we're gonna try to get this things real then you guys are gonna see a problem that I ran into this is something that that happens when you we are using these wood inserts especially with wood wood such as MDF okay once I got that in there as you guys can see I'm gonna have to hit that corner and I don't know if you can see it's a micro micro a microscopic it's like a hairline fracture once I put it into the wood because it wood is so soft MDF is so soft the subsidy you guys can see exactly what I'm talking about so once I go inside you see what's happening they're splitting the wood so my remedy today what's the first get the wood I thought maybe the wood dust was still inside and it wouldn't let it go down so I'll settle it but as you guys can see that wasn't the case that corner is just too weak to do this so what I'm gonna be doing is using a little trick I gonna learn from the old school's put some pressure on it then you can go in at just fine no cracks see that you see it's let you guys see that again you clamp it down and what this does is it prevents it and it literally forces the wood to squeeze that um that drill bit in the fight day or the threats of it doesn't force the wood outward it actually forces the pressure forces the threats of the drill bit into the wood more so you don't get that splitting and this is a bigger bit that I planned on using I said well I may as well just go around with a larger bit in order to get this you know to not have that problem again so they clean things up come back and you try it again but as you guys can see I was having the same problem anyway so pretty much what I had to do on every hole which is a pain in the rear but advantage is worth it I'm used to dealing more so with 3/4 MDF than I am with half inch MDF with wood sense anyway these things work best in hardwood not something like this MDF for Yahoo don't know it's only wood dust and glue that's all it is it's basically wood dust and glue and of course I had to do my corners the same way I can remember shopping around that alonger go with a corner a corner jig just for clamping corners and I didn't buy it now I wish I had there anyway it worked out for the best I didn't get any splitting and this is what it looks like that's those first couple victims I added some blue in there as well I don't know if you guys can see I missed that corner but it's okay I'll come back and get it later but the grip pliers worked so in case you guys are having that issue on one of your bills that's a way to Remy it next up is gonna be cutting out for the tweeter and in order to do that what I'm using here is the portion of bits fortunate bigs come in really really in handy when especially if you're trying to countersink some things these things are amazing and as you guys can see I'm using the 1/2 for the tweeter cut out but before you do that you need to get your placement correct so I'm gonna just be using an old-school method of doing this just by placing everything and get a spare piece of straightedge wood and use it as a straight edge and just move forward with that cut it out get everything crossplane find your Center and it's time we used a bit once again a drill press is on the table and like I said if you don't have a drill press you can you can do this with a hand tool because fortunately Bicks have a guide right there in the center you guys just see me punch that out you can use a hand tool with this it's not this is not completely necessary but uh to get that straightness going I just want to use it because it's always best if you got a drill press music and this is where I'm going to continue with the hand tool until I punch through and this is what it looks like [Music] okay now it's gonna be time for the terminal cut terminal cut was a bit tricky cuz I didn't measure things like I was supposed to but it's okay we got everything going I'll use another old-school method just to see how much distance was in between the actual terminal cut opening and the where it actually the crossover section is so once I got all that going once again get the drill bits make a guide hole in this case fool because we're not gonna be doing a corner you can use forcing the bits to do this as well get those guide holes going actually be a lot quicker if you do that and this is the test fit and it works that's a success so right now what we're gonna be doing is getting this thing sealed up working on getting it airtight and like I said it's a quarter-inch high it's a half-inch wide which is perfect for this setup right here this is what it looks like and this thing just have a one sticky side one side not sticky this is window seal so it works best fool what we're trying to do now which is to keep air where it's supposed to go like keep it routed properly so let's just get it stuck down on there and yes it's covering those holes but that's okay I later found out that the screws punched through it quite easy this is what it looks like and like I said this is a test rig so you want to make sure that it is accessible anytime you need for it to be and next up what we're going to be doing is checking out the sound test and for this I'm going to be letting you guys actually see this is the default pair of the MK 4 zero twos [Music] [Music] yeah so I kind of just wanted to let you guys see that this is a pretty decent pair of bookshelf speakers they are not something that even to be laughed at or something they actually needed improvement this is just me and what I wanted to do right now is a real war test where world music test of it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] yeah just kind of wanted to give you guys a fair shot at this to let you guys see that you know this is not that these things are pretty decent they are not crappy ones and I want you guys to see originally what they sound like before I get to doing my tests or whatnot what I've done now is actually set it up with the Pioneer deh 150 and I'm gonna be doing a left and right comparison let me let me pause right quick what you guys seen earlier in the earlier set up this setup right here is actually being ran on the default setup here this is a powered pair the speaker on the owner on the right actually has the power input in slaves to the one on the on the left but what I'm going to be doing for the test itself is I'm actually gonna be running it from the car stereo so I'm checking my voltage here which we're good--we're above twelve and I'm gonna be running it from here and I'm gonna be doing a left and right on the left is the the bass reflex enclosure you guys just seen me do and on the right is gonna be that passive speaker that not empowered one is what you're gonna be seeing on the right okay so this is this is not under his own power this is gonna be a base sweep from 150 all the way down to 20 Hertz for the guy on the left [Music] [Music] and that's 20 Hertz [Music] and that's 20 Hertz so yeah these things are toned to 50 Hertz I believe I've atoning the event the event it got to so uh yeah that's that's pretty much what you got there next up is gonna be real world music and let you see what they sound like together then I'm gonna give them to you separate [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] this is gonna be the second track of real world music with these guys hope you guys are enjoying [Music] just checking my boss is still above 12 good [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so that'll do it for this one guys what do you guys think about that let me know in the comment sections below do you guys think that I should do the fourth order and six sort of band parents the same way that I did this meaning that should I put the crossover network inside place the tweeter on the front and use it as a bookshelf setup or should I dedicate the fourth order and sixth order bandpass setup to only subwoofer functionality that's the question that I have for you guys cuz I'm kind of split in between those two options I want to actually keep the base reflect four of a better design a better base response to me and my opinion a sound better I don't know I'll let you guys be the judge of that but I want to know should I keep these two guys or just go ahead and test it as is and convert it later on if need be what do you guys think make it a subwoofer enclosure or put the Twitter and crossover on the inside let me know what you guys think in the comment sections below until next time if you like DIY builds comparisons and competitions please consider clicking that subscribe button so you don't miss a thing

Channel: BudgetBassHead

Views: 100,743

Keywords: enclosure, ported enclosure, band-pass, 4th Order Bandpass, 4th Order Bass Reflex, 6th order band-pass box design, 6th order band-pass box, 4th order bandpass box, 4th order subwoofer box port tuning, 6th order woofer box, 6th order box 4 inch woofer, 4th order woofer box 4 inch woofer, 6th order speaker box 4 inch woofer, woofer box build, 4 inch woofer box build, mini 4 inch woofer box build, miniature 4 inch woofer box build, miniature woofer box build, mini woofer box

Id: KEyYxqcmRKQ

Length: 46min 13sec (2773 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 20 2020