Millyard Kawasaki H2 1000 four cylinder

in this video I'm going to be talking about a Kawasaki h20004 cylinder that I made in 2003 talk a little bit about how I made the engine give it a service and take it for a ride it's been about three months since I started making this video a daffodils are long gone and it's well into summer so let's get the bike into the garden so we can have a look around it the grass is still really soft in the winter rain it's quite hard to push this is one of my early thousand CC H2 four-cylinder Kawasakis it differs from other models I've made in the fact that it has Chrome plated steel expansion Chambers K N filters and pre-tech Billet caliper front brakes the twin pre-tech calipers are so Fierce you can make the tire square with just one finger pressure on the lever I fitted these calipers to several of my h.2004s and also my Kawasaki V12 and the Viper v10 and here you can see the central two exhaust pipes just fit between the frame the paint is an non-standard Diamond Black Metallic and looks amazing and here you can see the bikes only done 71 miles in the last 20 years I fitted this bike with semi rear set foot rests so the brake layer is moved back a little bit and here you can see my original stampings 2003 when I make the three cylinder engine into a four-cylinder engine I use a standard hacksaw to cut the crankcases then file them up to suit until they fit nicely together here you can see the barrels which are basically two Central barrels with an outside left and outside right here they are before Vapor blasting and here you can see the engine mount is centrally in the frame it's not really that wide a crankshaft is pressed together from six pieces so I can basically unpress them add two more bits and repress them together as a 90 degree foursome in the crankshaft finished it's just a straightforward assembly I go into greater detail in other videos on my channel have a look at my Kawasaki four-cylinder playlist now back outside of the bike I fitted Hagen shocks and Avon tires this makes the handling so much nicer when I look at the carburetors my first thing I noticed is that the fuel pipes are really stiff and hard so they're going to need to be replaced the rubber pipes have gone really stiff and I can barely pull them off the stubs he's packed I had to use pliers on most of them before I try and start the bike I'm going to remove the carburettors to clean out all the Jets I did notice that one was leaking slightly as well so I'll address that the petrol tank can see I need to be removed first to gain access so the seat hinges up and the tank can be lifted off very carefully from the back I really like this view of the engine from the top I think it looks just perfect in the frame so now I can reducing off the clips and remove the K N filters with the air filters removed the next thing I'm going to do is loosen off and remove the chokes there's four separate cables that go to each carburettor each cable controls a separate plunger they just slide out of the carburetor bodies I then remove the fourth throttle slides I glance across the garden and the pigeon is looking at me again and he flies off to a little drink the car brush is on H2S a man's on rubber stubs so I'll loosen the front clip and I can pull off the first carburetor quite a tight fit but it comes off eventually and then I can remove the cables and the other carpeter bodies until they're all removed from the like with all the carburetors removed from the bike the next thing I'm going to do is turn them upside down and remove the plate Chambers after removing the first float chamber I'm quite surprised to see inside actually looks really clean inside the float chairman doesn't look too bad either there's no residual mess which is really good and Tracy brings me out a cup of tea which is just perfect we'll have a look at the second carburetor and it's strange they actually look quite clean but when you actually feel the floats they feel stiff as if it's like gummed up slightly like the petrol's just gone a bit jelly so you know I pull out the pin which slides out nicely take off the float and the needle itself and the cutoff valve feels a bit tight as well so this all needs to be cleaned with a carb cleaner I'll continue to remove all the floats from the car brushes then I'll progress to remove the Jets being very careful with the pilot jet to make sure the screwdriver fits tight into the slot otherwise you can actually damage the jet trying to unscrew it four main Jets removed I carefully lift out the brass washers and tap out the needle Jets with needle Jets removed I then remove the tick over screws and springs followed by the air screws not forgetting the little spring that sits behind the air screw these can sometimes ping out and get lost there's a proper commotion in the bird table a family starlings is flying feed the baby and fly back out there's never a dull moment when working in the garden but back to the carbs I use a fine wire brush to remove some of the loose oxidation then I put all the parts on my ultrasonic cleaner using a mildly acidic solution to remove all the oxidation and give them a nice clean look the Ultrasonic Cleaner vibrates the parts at very high frequency this removes and dislodges any corrosion and contamination it also upsets my microphone on the camera this is a solution I use you have to dilute it as it says in instructions but it works really well [Music] after about 10 minutes 50 degrees C parts are lifted out and they look absolutely amazing I'm really pleased with that okay as I turn off the Ultrasonic Cleaner I can hear this noise at the door here's a blackbird he's really tame he comes up to be fed every day so I give him some mealworms he loves them back in the garage I use my airline to blow off the remnants of cleaning fluid and start assembling the carburettors the first thing I assemble is the needle jet this slides into the center of the carburetor body and is aligned with a little Peg to make sure it's in the correct orientation you know when it's correct it just drops down flush the needle Jets held in place by the manger and a brass washer with the four main Jets fitted the next thing I'm going to do is put the cartilages if I first check they're clear using my prickers foreign just pushes through gently and if it rotates freely the hole in the side is clean and it's really important you have a good fitting screwdriver with a pilot Jets and can sometimes strip then you can't get them out of carburettors so a good fitting screwdriver should hold the jet nicely you can insert it into the carburetor body and do it up just tight I then fit the four tick over adjusting screws on the H2 they have a big aluminum disc to Aid operation so you can do it by finger without using a screwdriver wait I'm going to take over screws in place I can now fit the air screws screwing them down as they just seat and coming back one and a half which is a rough setting for a good startup the last thing I fit is a petrol cut off valve in the floats the floats drop in nicely into the carburetor and a little pin slides through to hold them in place where the floats fitted all four carbs I check that it will move okay nicely and they do so the next thing I'm going to do is check the float height this is the distance from the surface of the gasket ceiling face to the top of the float when the carbs held upside down to do this I use a Vernier caliper set to 24 millimeters and it should just slide over the float if it's a bit tight or a bit loose you adjust the little tang in the center until it's just perfect I care for the offer up the Vernier caliper with a gentle rocking motion and I can see it's just touching the flow which is perfect so this one's ready to go and I checked the subsequent three carburettors and they're all the same so I'm really pleased with that it's always good to check both sides of the float because if any twist one side might be correct the other side could be wrong in which case just gently twist them back so they're both the same the float Bowl gaskets are all hard and brittle and when I bend them they snap because these are no good so I need to get some new gaskets you can buy them online but I prefer to make my own gaskets it's really easy to do many years ago I had an old float Bowl that's badly corroded and Beyond repair so I cut off the bottom with a saw and made myself a template for drawing around like this and what's good it fits a H1 H2 and even the gt750 early models so you can use it for many bike applications so you place it on the gasket paper you can draw around and cut out your gaskets when drawing around the template you have to be careful not to move the template otherwise this will make the gasket the wrong shape with the gaskets marked out the first thing I do is punch the holes if you cut the gaskets out first then punch the holes you can split the gasket paper so it's always best to do it first foreign there we go that's all the holes punched so now I can use my Swiss army knife to cut out the gaskets the little scissors that come with them are just perfect for this I really enjoy making gaskets I quite often sit with cutting them out while I'm watching TV but you have to be careful with little bits flinging around the living room though so put down a piece of cloth on your lap first to catch all the bits and everything's great foreign Bowl just perfect I'm really pleased with that and it's really satisfying then you've made it yourself three more to go then we're all done the gaskets fit nicely into the carburetor body and snap in place it's important to check they don't touch the side of the floats because this can cause problems with flooding if it is sticking out a little bit too much you can just trim a bit more off your scissors but in this case they were fine so now I can score on the float chamber bodies and tighten the screws I'm using a JIS screwdriver you can buy these online and they fit the screws just perfect with the screws tightened I give the cards a little shake to make sure the floats are clear like a final check and everything's fine so that's brilliant so now we can start putting them back on the bike starting in the middle I'm working outwards so I fit the carburettors to the engine then the throttle slides and then the chokes until they're all fitted with the carbs all fitted I check the action of the throttle and it snaps shut back nicely which is really good so the next thing I'm going to do is synchronize The Tick overs and to do this I use a 4.5 millimeter drill and rest it just underneath the throttle slide adjusting the screw until it just pinches the drill it should be a nice sliding fit in and out the back of the carburetor it takes a little while on a bit of practice but you get there eventually so you basically screw in a little screw so it just raises the slide push the drill in then release the screw until it just pinches the drill into talking about a very slight grip and when you're happy that's just done that you repeat that another three carburettors and then that's a tick over set foreign it's always a good idea to snap the throttle a couple of times after you've done this initial tick over setting and then check the drill bits again and if there's any slight discrepancies just do some adjustments and snap it again and check again with the idle set the next thing I need to do is check the operation of the carburetor slides that they're in unison and to do this I listen for the click there's one click they're all in unison if they're not you can adjust the cable adjusters at the top of the carburetor bodies you can also use your fingers pushed in the back with Thumb in one carburetor and a finger in another to fill they move at the same time gradually moving along in this case because I hadn't Disturbed the cables everything was just right when I was pushing the bike into the garage I noticed there was a high-pitched squeal coming from a speedo every now and again so I removed the Speed Ahead from the bike so have a look inside on the back of the H2 speeder there's like a worm gear which is screwed on with two screws and this sometimes dries out so I listen to screws and removed it to have a look I looked inside and I could see that it was really dry in fact I couldn't see any grease at all this was quite probably the cause of a squeak and the shaft on the end of the speedo itself had rust on it dried powdered rust which is not ideal so I got that off with a software brush with the parts cleaned I put some grease in that in the housing and on the actual shaft itself this should stop the squeak you don't want to put on too much just a little bit so now the housing can be pushed back onto the speedo engaging with the worm gears and took the two screws and refet it to the bike before refitting the speedo to the bike I thought I'd try it out of my electric drill I use a square needle file it works perfect to drive the speedo I can see it's registering several miles an hour no squeak whatsoever so I'm really pleased with that so now I can safely fit it back to the bike knowing it's going to work with the bike all back together and checked over I need to take it out of a test ride so I'll take it to my nearest garage first of all to set it up because it hasn't been used in several years and take it for a very careful ride bearing in mind it's technically still running in foreign thank you thank you [Music] well I'm really pleased with that the bike falls strong through the gears well I couldn't rev it too much but it sounded amazing well thanks a lot watching I hope you enjoyed the video and I'll see you all soon

Channel: Allen Millyard

Views: 192,453

Keywords: kawasaki, millyard, Super Six, six cylinder, home made, shed, shed made, old school engineering, engine repair, Z1, Kawasaki Z900, Kawasaki Z1, Hacksaw, hand cutting, MCN, Classic motorcycle Mechanics, The motorbike Show, HCA, Filing, Files, Colchester Lathe, 1970's, Kawasaki, Camshaft, Haveago, millyardracing, hyperride2, Mikuni, Its fast, 500LC, RD250LC, Four cylinder, hca, henrycoletv, allen millyard, Yamaha, YL1, 100cc, Exhaust, 6 into 4, and it fits perfect, just by eye, four cylinder

Id: lE9oD0byfC8

Length: 19min 50sec (1190 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 04 2023