MF135 Restoration #9 Removing the Pistons and the Crankshaft

[Music] well you can see I've got the engine salon and what I've done I've gone up the shed going up to where the lathe and the milling machine and that are and I've made a couple of bolts that fit into the stand here with a half UNC thread and I've also made adapters and the adapters are 3/8 UNF there we go 3/8 UNF and those screwing to the block here if there's not enough feeding the block with the staff to put a washer under here which is what we're going to do we all leave the straight long for other applications and then yeah the idea is a disc this quality screws into there we spread a man as far as we can get this wider grip as we can on it and away we go so we should be able to turn it around then and tip him upside down and well we'll take the crank here we've taken off the Pistons out take the crank out and hopefully on this stand here we can give it a wash and measure the bore and do all that sort of stuff well there you go the engines in that stands yeah this is a boy point stand that I've had it to lots of cheap into snap-on if there ever is such a thing those very great stand I've had big 6-cylinder Perkins on of them I've had a 466 Bedford on believe it or not but we can turn it up and down for filming and all that so we're all set up what we'll show you that this date is when we hone in on on that number three Conrad D so we'll come in if we can try and get a bit of focus happening and just on the caps here there's a number three on the top and the bottom cap or it's on the cap and the con rod and that is away from the camshaft and so it's on the oil filter side would be another way of saying it I suppose you can see the oil filter housing in the shot there and so that's something to take note of if an engine hasn't got a piston that's already numbered there's nothing wrong with putting a couple of Center pop marks or setter punch marks on them and taking note whether it's left or right or something like that so I can't seem to get into oh nice I think you can just see the number three there but yeah just something to take note of at this stage take note of where you are and what you're doing with it and a little bit of a little bit of thought nail will help a lot I've got a heap of junk over and why why over there yeah that's from when we pulled the engines ahead I haven't tidied that up yet but I've and I probably won't until I get this block apart and we can measure the crank and do all that sort of thing so stay tuned we'll undo some Conrad nuts and we'll get the ball we'll get it to start the disassembly anyway that kind of zoomed in a little bit now we're going under to undo the Conrad nuts on number three now the reason I'm doing number three first is just out of interest we know the oil pressure on this engine was dropping away on us and so we're expecting a worn crank or worn bearings and the oil pumps right up the front of the engine so this is probably going to be the worst one not the main so much as the main it's the oil and then the oil comes to ender the journal to the begins so we're just there eleven sixteenth those nuts I'll just put the nuts back on so I don't lose them and often to get the caps off you can actually use the nuts so this is cap off now let's have a look look at the berry that is surprisingly good I was expecting to see the white metal worn and a copper backing so we can pop these bearings out and what I'm looking for on the back of the bearing there's a part number or a no 100 200 something like that written there okay this has STD so it's a standard crank so that tells us that these big in journals have not been ground at all they're still standard and look but look at that bearing that's in pretty good Nick I've got a feel on this engine got done up but then through neglect she cut dusted so no that's a bit of a surprise to me I expected to find more were there so I'll pull the other con rods off the end I'll just poke this back there just so we know where it goes oh I'll get these other ones off and I'll have a look there too let's see if I can actually see yeah we can just see number one sometimes soon as we get the Pistons out I put the caps back on again sometimes I'd that there's probably good practice too if you're going to use the bearings again which we we don't we don't want to use I'm wondering with the low oil pressure scenes the Pistons or the sorry the bearings are so good whether they did the engine and didn't put the oil pumping so we have to pop the oil pump apart shortly oh you can know you really use them thank that crank feels really good believe it or not do those bearings uh okay all right I'll turn off for a second I'll drop the other ones here and when we come to popping the Pistons out I'll turn the engine over so you can see them coming through well I've taken number one cap off and you can feel the groove here and look at the scoring in that bearing looks like it's had a big hunk of tell me out the hole and score round and round and round that may have been on a previous rebuild but the oil pump rings oil up shoots it into here and then it disperses around so being towards the front here this one would be one of the early ones to get the oil get that get you a better look at this you can sort of see it we've got too much light happening in here today which I've got lots of light for filming but sometimes it helps sometimes it doesn't and there's actually pits you can see little pits through here and that looks like it's been rubbish when it's been assembled you know a little little bits of pitting in the bearing so so number one on the crane doesn't feel real good so terrible what we can do now is windy engine over and what happens is all the pistons go down as far as they can go and so I'll try and turn him around so you can see what's happening see the Pistons in the bores see the con rod hanging down see that's that's clear of the crank now so we should just use the hammer handle get the handle of your hammer and just just give him a buck take the bearing it bearing comes out sometimes other times it doesn't and sometimes you're bugging your hammer handle a bit and once upon a time I used to actually go and buy half a shovel handle and we chopped the shovel handle off up into lengths probably so long and we just punch down on the piece of shovel handle nice and soft and and you didn't wreck the hammer handle so I'll go and find something either from the hammer handle so I don't wreck it and a little bump a few Pistons out well I went and had a look and I fan and I'll mop with the handle broken on it was an old mop handle so I nicked it so look what we do now you try and centralize the cotton there you go lucky that didn't fall on the ground or surprised what do I didn't mention was if you have a big lip on top of the ball like I said there's no lip here hardly you may have to remove the lip or get rid of the lip first but I didn't have to do with this that's one piston assembly out now the Rings are very sharp which is a sign of the worn engine it's got the old style well control ring here probably the new set of rings will be a cast upon the same as this lower one one two three four five where a five ring piston so we'll watch all this something we'll go through the process and measuring it up chances are I'm not going to use it I'll probably put new pistons and rings and the whole wad in but yeah look we're filming it was shown how it's done so let's do the whole show right all the Pistons an area and to remove the crank we need to undo all the main bearing caps but before we do that we need to remove the rear seal housing now this engine has a right rear seal if if the engine number had a now on it finished with a DL you would have a lip rear seal this is just a D so it's a right for you seal so these housings get done up incorrectly and get warped and all sorts of things these little alloy housings it's in two halves you have an upper and a lower half and by undoing these bolts here just the two through you can actually lift this rear bearing cap but I don't do that I pull it all differently big longboats good job for not down this little bit so I've got the two main clamping bolts undone now these blokes have real thin little heads on them again so make sure your spinners in a good Nick this old girl I've had for years she's a bit she's a bit sloppy on the head but I know you like you have some spinners that you like I'll just drop them all in the pot for the moment oh this one sounds like they're slashing the patty-cakes at all we'll have a slasher in the background all day this might be real good for filming but anyway you don't listen to that bit no Kelly dogs look and she says I'll get that bastard where is he and then once again there's three more three more nuts under there yeah to get that off sometimes a little lippy you can just just touch the leaf on but I - thing to be today so easy time finding time find it and just go change on I need to slow to see the end of it there we go there's the bottom and that's a rope seal through here and I used as a little gasket on there so same process lots undo the three bolts for this other section I should have that right out of the way Roy well now we've got all this rear engine seal a up I've just undone the bolts here for the main bearings now the main bearing caps have one two three and four from the front from the front back if you haven't got that on your engine take them take a moment and put it on there even if you have the number two bearing cap on the number two spot but you have it back the front when you tighten that down the engine will lock up same with the con rods if you have number three on number three but you don't have the two numbers freeze that we saw before lined up you'll nip it up on the engine will stop turning so take note of these little things they they do help now usually I leave the bolts in these and you can rock them back and forth and use them as a handle near that bearing did you feel somewhere on that mine that sometimes if the if it's an old engine you will have more wear on the mine because a lot of people just drop the sump off and put a new set of begins in which may have happened here who knows into air pop look at that automatic that's your front one that feels pretty good Center one okay I might zoom this out a bit I'm concerned you're missing out on some of that three and you'll notice on the bearings is a little tag there stops them from turning on most engines con-rods at all there's another one down in the block here they always go together you'll see a little shadow mark so those so another thing we can do at this stage is roller bearing shelia and once again we're looking for STD or Oh 100 or it was just gonna part number without any numbers you can presume it a standard yes so this doesn't have a STD or any numbers like that on it but there's three double one to one double to one and it doesn't have STD or Oh 100 - oh so if this crank was ground all oversize bearings have oh 104 1002 oh and all that so this hasn't got that so we're presuming it hasn't been grand and this back one it's easy a little bit tighter it has thrusts I don't know if you can see a little tag just there but I'll show you once I'll get it off quickest way to get an itchy nose hands like that right now that's the rear mind and you have a thrust yeah some of the thrusts you'll notice have a steel back the steel back goes to the housing and the soft Babbitt metal the crank turns on that and you have your two little oil grooves here so we have the thrust washer sitting knee you can't get oversized thrusts if you need them from time to time yeah turn the crank there there needs that other thrusts it turns yep then you'll notice the thrusts on the cap side has a tag to stop a turning and the thrust on the bottom doesn't have a tag it's a sit see and because this top one can't turn it can't turn order so the bottom one has no tag and that crank should just lift here there you go that's the wreath rust all right we'll give everything a bath um I got the other shed and get more and more kilometres and bits and pieces and we'll run through checking that we're on the crank and we'll clean the block and do the board all that sort of thing [Music] you

Channel: Bundy Bears Shed

Views: 12,761

Rating: 4.9239545 out of 5

Keywords: MF135, fe35, mf35, perkins ad3.152, ad3.152, a3.152, tractor restoration, tractor repair, massey, massey ferguson, fergy, fergie, perkins engine, perkins piston, perkins crankshaft, tractor crank

Id: IoZqvNnGTm8

Length: 23min 8sec (1388 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 13 2018