Manual Mill Tutorial

all right so today we're going to be learning how to use this manual mill is the mill we have in our machine shop down in brown and it's a pretty awesome machine and it's how you're going to use it so this mill has three axes it has this handle which moves the table left and right and counterclockwise moves the table towards you and clockwise moves it away from you this handle moves the table forwards and backwards relative to the operator which stands pretty much right here it also has a z-axis which raises and lowers the table this is the joint the knee joint which attaches to that axis like so and the up Direction is marked on here so clockwise raises the table like so and when I'm done using this if it's going to get in my way or anything I like to flip it around and put it on like so so I can't kick it or mess with it so I have a good clean cut moving on to other operations the on/off switch is right here there is currently nothing in this bit in the Chuck we can put any type of tool into this machine that will fit into the Kaulitz so I'm going to go ahead and show you how to load one of those into the machine I'm going to be loading this edge finder to show how to find very edge of a part or zeroing it we have these call-outs like I said each one has a different diameter we have big small each of them should be marked with the correct size that it is this is a 3/16 inch collet and this is my 3/16 inch edge finder so I'll put it in like so should be a press fit pretty snug already and then what happens is there's a keyway on these Kaulitz which finds the key in the Chuck I'll go ahead and press the call it all the way up against the Machine and this shaft right here screws into threads which on the back of these Kaulitz so I'll hand tighten that first with my hand kept on the collet make sure that it doesn't fall out so it doesn't damage the bit or maybe if I had a part in there a damage the part I can grab this wrench which is back here tightening try to get it nice and snug get it some taps but not too tight that you can't take it out again if you need to put that back right now the machine has a break on it is on this side over here is an in position in an out position the in position means the brake is on meaning that I can't turn this so move the lever to out by pulling out this black pin and now this machine is free to move so to use this I'm going to be putting in a part into my vise so this is the vise which holds anything that I'll be working on anything I need to be holding while I'm cutting it with this this tool so over here I've prepared what I need to clamp my part in to the vise this is the material that we'll be working with today high-density polyethylene I've went ahead and faced this side so it's nice and smooth so that this edge finder will find a nice flat edge so we can go ahead and make cut I'm using these parallels they come in pairs totally parallel and it's the name I'll be using them as spacers for these grips today so with this I can open and close the vise so open it put my parallels in drop my little grips in there now I can go ahead and put in my part when setting in my stock part that I'm using I'm gonna go ahead and put this in so it's like hanging out a couple inches I'm actually going to be facing this side of it about an inch deep just as an example cut so I'll put this in there leaving whatever I'm going to be cutting the area I'll be cutting hanging out of the vise so that I definitely won't run into the vise with my tool which would damage the vise and wind damage the tool and then I want that to have so go ahead and type that and tighten that in there same thing nice and tight this material is kind of soft so I'm not going to really crank it in there but just so that it won't move and I can go ahead and turn on this edge finder and find that edge so the on switch is up here I'm using the forward direction I'll double check make sure my brake is off that make a horrible screeching noise if I were to leave that on so I'll leave that off go ahead and turn this on and basically just but this up against the side of this face okay so I'll bring the part up against my edge finder and I'll watch it it has a moveable end at the bottom and as I bring it up and blend it up against that face it'll slow down its shimmying until it's pretty much perfectly centered and then I know it's centered once the center actually breaks off like so so you'll see that the edge finding bottom has actually moved away from the center that's how I know that I'm right on that edge so I'm going to zero that point each of these dials has different indicator scale as to your position it's in thousands of inch so each tick mark is one thousandth of an inch I'll loosen that up set that point so I know where that is again I can find it again move it away turn it off so now that I found that zero I want to check it again and make sure that I actually have that at that zero point so lower the table and move this over both of these sides of the table have dials but I use this one so I'll go up to this guy and bring that to my zero point which is right there so what I found is the exact center of any tool that I'll be putting in here so I can go ahead change this one out for the tool that will be cutting with and then I'll be able to make my cut which will be a depth of one inch into the part and cutting down about a quarter of an inch so move this way I'll make sure the brake is on which makes listening a bit much easier put this back on do it if they call it gets stuck in there I'll actually keep this threaded and actually give it a little bit of a tap which knocks it out of place without damaging the threads too much so unscrew this the rest of the way take this out put these back where I found them on this mill there's an ice holder for all the collets then they each have a space to make sure that they go back to where you found them for the cut I'll be using a half inch end mill this particular tool has two flutes which is suitable for cutting the soft material if it were steel or aluminum you might want to think about having more flutes but you can learn about that and feed these beads and manufacturing processes same thing there's a key way I line it up with my key inside spin it around and there we go push it up tighten this all the way down not too tight make sure my break comes off so this is free spinning and I'm good to go so now I find the very top of this part so that I can know exactly how deep I'm going to go so the way I'm going to do that is all line up the bit with a very center of my part this can be found using the edge finder as well to find the outer radius and then move that distance to the very center or you can kind of just see it with your eyes so I'm lining it up I'm awesome spinning the tool the bit so that those two flutes that I was talking about line up with the center line of this material that's because those two flutes at the very bottom that's where like the deepest part of the tool is and that's what I want to 0 against the top of this so I get this sheet of paper which I know is about three thousandths of an inch or point zero zero three inches and I'm going to put that between the tool and apart this serves to kind of have a physical barrier so I don't scratch my part or anything like that and works pretty well for doing stuff like this so double-check that I'm at the zero point put my paper between the tool and the part and raise my part basically and I'll be shaking this a little bit until the tool grabs the paper so right there if I were to move that anymore I would actually be ripping the paper and I don't want to do that so that's how I know that the tool is right on top of the part so on this knob I'm going to go ahead unscrew the handle move this to zero and remember we have a thickness of three thousandths of an inch of this piece of paper so I'm actually going to offset that from my zero so I'll set it to about like in like a negative three you can kind of think about it so that when I bring this handle up those three thousandths this tool is exactly on the very top of my part so I'll go ahead tighten that and then I'll lower my part down so just like I did with the edge finder I'm going to bring everything to my zero point make sure that looks good to me and then I can make my cut so I'll take this to my zero another important thing about using these machines for precision machining each of these knobs has a little bit of play in it meaning that on this handle there's about twenty thousands of an inch that on the knob you can see moving but it's not physically moving the table so what that means is whenever I'm going back to my zero point I have to come at it the same direction that I zeroed it so I move my part up against the edge finder this way so that's the way I'm going to be finding that zero so due to my zero looks pretty good to me so that's zero I'll move this a little bit out of the way check my Z and that looks good to me so I'm happy with my zeros I can go ahead and drop my tool down to the depth that I'll be cutting and walk it through the part or actually if you bring the part through the blade kind of like a lawnmower pattern to remove all the material and have a nice flat pace so I'll move the part out of the way of the tool and from that zero point I'm going to be raising it a quarter of an inch or 250,000 just to kind of show you guys a cut one turn on this wheel is a hundred thousandths so I'm going to be doing two and a half turns this should end where it reads fifty so that's set I'll bring this back to my zero which means I'll actually be cutting into this part with the radius of my bit which is another quarter of an inch which is important to know okay so move it again to hundred thousandths cool it's kind of confusing sometimes looking at this end and going to your zero I actually didn't go far enough again so I'll take it back to my zero and that should be right on looks good to me I can go ahead and turn the machine on forward direction and start making my cut the way I'm gonna do that is with the machine on I'm gonna walk the part into the blade and then when I'm come when I'm done with that face I'll move this another 250,000 southern cutting with like an even depth so each time it's an even cut I'll remember where I am and how far I've gone so I'll make four passes of quarter of an inch each time ending up with should be almost exactly one inch from the very top front face of this to the where I stopped at a depth of the core vanish so go ahead and do that take the saw flip it around so I don't mess with it and we can go ahead and make our cut so I'm done with my cut I'll go ahead turn off the machine there's a handbrake white right here pulling that stops the blade and so with this stopped I'll go ahead and remove the part dust off my my tabletop and make sure that this is exactly how I want it it's actually important to leave it in the vise before you're done with it measure it a couple times make sure that it's exactly where you want it and then once you're convinced with your your cut you can take it out and go on to the next part or whatever so I'll use this loosen the vise and just slide them apart out good to go on every station in this machine shop there should be brushes like so which are used just to clean off the table this is important she's the keep like a clean shop and to be courteous to the people who are after you also if I were to have be cutting aluminum or something something harder and they were to be underneath my parallels with my set I part down that means that my tool or my piece would actually be an angle I wouldn't be cutting perfectly flush with this table so that's important for several reasons so when you're done with that cleaning the table make sure you put everything back where you found it I'll return these to the table top over there put the parallels back any tools that were on the table I'll leave them there and just try to leave it like even better than when I found it

Channel: Learn@MINES

Views: 304,906

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Id: 5ZkP5RW41rg

Length: 20min 3sec (1203 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 07 2015