Mammoth sized carriage doors with shop made windows.

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unlike Frankton welcome back to the boardroom in this video I'm going to build some mammoth sized carriage doors and here's my starting point this roll-up door is twelve feet wide by ten feet tall and this door is probably twenty years old the weather stripping's destroyed and the whole door has been bowed in a couple of inches by the wind so it was certainly time for a replacement and I decided to build carriage doors versus replacing this door with a better insulated new roll-up door for host of reasons and I'll go into those reasons later in the video the first step was to remove some old trim boards and prepare left and right jams and these jams are for two by fours nailed together that i milled one face of perfectly flat and I painted the bottom of these jams and I lifted them up off the concrete about an eighth of an inch with composite shims all of this is in an attempt to prevent moisture from wicking up and rotting these two by fours out and I have the milled side facing out and I hold these jams to the six by six posts of the building with some lag screws and I do this so that these are adjustable and this feature actually comes in handy later on in the build and next I attach a milled two by eight to the face of this and I do this just so you don't see the seams between all the two-by-four it's just kind of gives it a cleaner appearance and the next item on the list is the head of the door jamb and here I'm planing a slight angle on this so that water will run off and I just use some double-stick tape to hold a little shim to the edge of it and that creates the angle and these notches allow the head to fit around the left and right sides of the jamb a pre-primed and installed this headpiece when doing so I made sure that it was nice and level and straight also when installing the jams I spent a great deal of time making sure that they were plumb and square as well my plan was to build these carriage doors as torsion boxes so I'm going to use two by sixes that I'm just rough cutting right now I'm going to rough cut them and set them aside and let them rest for a day or two before doing final milling and while the rough-cut two-by-sixes are resting I needed to construct a temporary workbench one of the challenges of building a torsion box is you need a surface that's about as big as the torsion box you want to build and it needs to be pretty close to flat so I spent some time with a powered hand plane taking any bow out of these two by fours and here's a protip trust your eye when you sight down a piece of wood if it looks straight it probably is it's important to note that a bunch of perfectly straight pieces of wood joined together doesn't necessarily make a perfectly flat surface it would be very easy to introduce some twists into these doors if I didn't take the time to make this one continuous flat plane so I decided to break out my mighty laser level and if I sent out a level line and I measured up from my temporary workbench to that line and it was consistent all the way around I knew I would have a perfectly flat surface to be working on and I screwed on a couple of extra legs in the middle there just to prevent any sagging I measured all the way around one last time and I was good to go with my awesome super flat temporary workbench complete I turned my attention back to the two by sixes that I rough cut earlier and I get them as straight as possible on one edge I realized this is to buy material and I can only get these things so straight so once they're pretty close I take them over the bandsaw I ripped a final width which in this case is two and a quarter and once I have enough stock milled up I begin building the frames and the joinery couldn't be more simple its butt joints with 3-inch screws and the shop apprentice and I have something in common one of our very favorite toys I mean tools is the impact driver and he is always curious to see what I'm using an impact driver for once the outer frame is complete I add two more verticals and these define the left and right sides of the windows that I'm going to install after that I'm mark and installed two more pieces that define the top and the bottom of the windows and I work real hard to keep this nice and square and accurate I want to be able to build and fit the window in real snuggly into this opening and the last step is to install some blocking this is what I will attach the hinges to later on when I hang the doors and I want this connection to be a little more solid since it's gonna be under a bunch of tension so I'll use some good old fashioned wood glue I mean here's a quick look at how these adjustable strap hinges will lay onto this blocking and once the two frames were built I moved on to adding the skins and I'm starting with the outside layer this is a half inch thick exterior-grade plywood and I'm attaching this with a generous bead of construction adhesive and some trim head exterior deck screws I'm using a polyurethane construction adhesive which is good for a few reasons it's waterproof it's paintable and it sets up slow which is perfect for big projects like this unfortunately I was able to find some nice flat sheets of plywood at my local supplier but I was able to clamp the bow out of the plywood in between the strength of the glue and screws everything remained flat after assembly after I was done screwing down the sheeting I removed the bulk of the excess with a jigsaw and I came back with a router and a flush trim bit to clean everything up just right [Music] and I don't think NASA's gonna give me an award for precision flatness but for a hack cabinet maker in his garage using subpar materials that's a pretty flat door over ten foot span next it was time to flip the doors over which was not an easy process and add some solid wood edging and I didn't want to use any metal fasteners when attaching this because I was actually going to cut away this edging if I needed to do a little bit of fine-tuning to the fit of the doors once the edging was attached to all four sides I could flip the door back over and use a lipping planer to flush it up perfectly to the surface of the door and a lesson I don't think I'll ever learn is how much time to add to a project when it's really big a big project tends to slow you down it's hard to move around and so on and for whatever reason I never remember to add a little extra time to take into account how big a project is and just like peanut butter onto a toasted English muffin I cut and fit some foam board into each of the nooks and crannies of the doors and this foam board is two-inch thick it's r-13 and has a foil face oh yeah in one final detail before gluing the other layer of plywood on I made a story stick for where the blocking was for the hinges so that there would be no mistakes during install and with all the foam board glued in place I now can put the inside layer of plywood on this is held on again with a whole pile of construction adhesive and some of those same trim head screws the only difference is this time I'm using a 3/8 inch plywood earlier in the video I mentioned I would talk about my reasoning for making carriage doors versus just replacing the roll-up door and I had three reasons for wanting to go this way the best roll-up doors are still fairly drafty even the most expensive ones aren't that well insulated I thought I could do better in that regard the second reason is the tracks that are associated with world doors they sort of clutter the ceiling of my shop and I wanted things to feel more open plus when a roll-up door is up it would block any lights mounted on the sealing above it that's no good and the last reason is I think carriage doors are just kind of cool and I thought it might add a neat feel to my shop and the last step in building these doors is to add some decorative pieces to make them look more like traditional carriage doors versus the torsion boxes that they actually are and the first couple of trim pieces I installed I used wood glue but it was fairly hot this day and the glue is setting up too quick so I switched back to the polyurethane construction adhesive and this worked better when I was installing the trim boards I let him overhang the edge of the door a little bit and I decided it would just be easiest to come back and flush trim them with a router versus try and get them lined up just perfect to begin with now the doors are complete it's time to move on to prep and paint I think there are two options with exterior projects and that is build everything out of cedar which is naturally weather resistant or the painting process needs to be done really well and my go-to for any exterior project is I put down a coat of primer then I come back with a solvent base caulking I caulk every crack every pinhole every knot hole every screw hole I do a real good job with that then I come back and I put another layer primer on top of that and I follow that up with a few coats of paint and I've found that this gives me a good number of years of service before things need to be refinished next bullet point on the agenda is to build a couple of windows I get started by milling lumber to the correct dimensions and I perform the necessary notching to the windowsills to make sure that they'll fit in the openings properly and since water is the sworn enemy of exterior woodwork I add a bevel to make sure that water runs off and in fact any surface that would be horizontal on this build I've added a small bevel too just to reduce the risk of rot and I use screws and glue to assemble the window frames and I like to use a little extra glue on applications like this I'm using waterproof type on three and I really soak the end grain should water meander its way in there I think sealing that end grain offers a little extra protection and I rip up a bunch of 9/16 square pieces that I may use for the window stays next Lee I add some paste wax to a jig so that it doesn't get glued in place this jig helps me accurately locate the window stays within the frame more type on three and a gazillion spring clamps to clamp these in place and there again is a bevel on the lower window state I probably could have used Brad nails to put these in but I thought that having to go back and fill all the nail holes would have ended up taking longer than just putting the spring clamps on and gluing everything in place once the glue is dry do some caulking and I'm kind of going out of order here because I ran out of primer and I wanted to keep moving and sealing up all the little cracks and crevices so water can't get in there really is the thing that will extend the life of an exterior project the most right now it's time for installation and I get started by in nailing some shims on to the jams here these represent the gaps that I'm looking for around the doors the doors aren't real super heavy probably just over 200 pounds of piece they are unwieldy due to their size so I called my buddy Josh and he comes over to help me lift them in place you remember those shims I nailed in place just a few seconds ago well we nudged one out of place when moving this door into position so I had to run round right quick and move that out of the way then we nudged the door over against the jamb and I used some shims to lift the door up and press it against the head of a jam and then from there I have some blocking installed on the inside and josh is just pressing the door against that blocking holding it in place while I work on the hinges these are called strap hinges and they're adjustable which is really nice I ended up using the adjustment features slightly to just line things up a little bit better these are galvanized the stainless steel ball-bearing version of these same hinges was literally ten times the cost and these hinges weren't cheap just unto themselves so I'll see how long these last if they end up wearing out I'll decide if I should upgrade in the future August 18th 2019 represented the 50th anniversary of Woodstock that's also about that date that I started building these doors Woodstock is a subject that I've always been really interested in even though I wasn't even born when it happened I had kind of liked to study the subject I'm a big fan of music is you know so during this build I was listening to a ton of Woodstock performances and the standout for me has to be Joe Cocker's version of with a little help from my friends it's a great song if you've not heard it it is a must go listen to it it also happens to be the theme song for one of my favorite shows that growing up as a kid the Wonder Years after getting the doors hung I realized they were out of coplanar by about a quarter of an inch I was able to loosen up the lag screw reach rule a new hole use a clamp to shift the jam over pulled everything back down and then the doors lined up perfectly with the doors swinging nicely it was time to install the window frames I did this with a generous amount of caulking and some screws I'm not actually using glass for the windows I'm using a material called polycarbonate this is what they make greenhouses out of this is a good material because it's pretty cost effective and it's reasonably well insulated and it could be cut and worked with regular woodworking tools so I get started by using the old air blaster to clean out the channels and then I add some foil tape to the bottom to make sure little bugs and stuff don't get in there and soil my view you can order polycarbonate panels in all different kinds of variations this happens to be what's known as five walled it's 16 millimeters thick and I ordered the stuff with a special 10-year Hale warranty which is needed in my area and I'm sealing the polycarbonate panels in place with one of my favorite adhesives this stuff seems to be pretty good it's clear it's paintable and it's cleanup with soapy water which makes it fairly unique amongst the adhesives available on the market today and I apply a generous bead to the inside edge of the window stays I pop the panel in place and then I used some moldings and screws to physically hold the window then I go back around to the outside and I do another bead all the way around the edge of the window just to make sure that it's watertight and lastly I pull off and gently dispose of the plastic covering one of the downsides of polycarbonate panels is they're not totally transparent in this case it's fine the windows are over five feet off the ground so it's not like I'm gonna be looking out them anyway but it's one thing to consider I also added some jamb extensions and I sized them so that I could add some more insulating foam as well as some weather stripping and now let's take a look at the rest of the hardware that I used I used a couple dis tako style clamps to pull the door shut I also used a latch bolt just because I'm hardcore and I live in a super windy area so I needed a way to hold the door open I couldn't just let it flop around and so here's what I came up with I used a double sided snap hook and a couple of eye bolts and it's fairly easy to use and it holds the doors rock-solid so I'm pretty happy with the end results I used the dista Coast Isle clamps to help pull the doors shut because I thought having the doors pressed into the weather stripping would really help seal out the winter storms that come from the north which is the direction that these doors face of the making of this video there's two things left to do one pull down the old roll-up door and add the weatherstripping which I'm gonna do when the paint is fully cured so far I'm pleased with end results I think the doors look really good they work good I'd like to go through a full winter before I decide if I really knock this out of the park or not and I think I achieve my original two goals of keeping this as tight as possible for winter and as open and breezy as possible for summer I hope you enjoyed the video thank you very much for watching until next time
Info
Channel: Mike Farrington
Views: 164,453
Rating: 4.9424639 out of 5
Keywords: woodworking, wood working, carpentry, DIY, garage door, DIY windows, shop built windows, shop doors, workshop doors
Id: PEmhfZg8NY0
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 18min 8sec (1088 seconds)
Published: Thu Sep 19 2019
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