Making an Edwardian Gibson Girl Lace Blouse

hello everyone and welcome to a new video this is the next installment in my wardrobe upgrade I knew a few glasses would be essential so today I'm working on this pattern from Foulke where the Gibson Girl blouse for the iconic Lacey Edwardian look let's just talk really quick about the Gibson Girl this was an earlier Dwalin phenomenon a new aesthetic look based on the illustrations of Charles Gibson portraying the new feminine ideal Gibson's new woman was a gentler version of the emerging suffragette requiring some degree of Independence but no unconventional femininity meet Camille Clifford one of Gibson's models in an iconic Gibson girl she was a famous actress and popular for her sensational beauty okay but the blouse so this pattern is called a gibson louse and looks like a standard lacey blouse the Shirtwaist very popular at the time I am absolutely obsessed with the Edwardian skirt and blouse combo this pattern looks very promising I decided to go with UA which has all of the lace insertion the UB is a simpler style which can be adapted to printer fabrics I made a mock-up of this and was happy with the fit it is only really fitted at the top yoke the rest is quite loose [Music] the first step in view a is to create the fabric from which the yolks will be cut this involves two large rectangles of the main fabric pin tucks and lace insertion I started by cutting out the rectangles and pinning on my lace the guide for this is not to scale so I placed my first strip of lace three inches from the edge I did Mark the pin tucks the pinned XR a quarter of an inch wide I mark the line that they would be sewn on marking three lines each half an inch apart this should leave some space in between each pin tuck [Music] I then based it all the lace on and started by tackling the pin tucks [Music] [Music] now this isn't the most accurate method by any means but it worked for me I simply followed the fabric along the mark line finger pressing and pinning and then sided by Machine 1/8 of an inch away from the fold using the marker on my presser foot as a guide ideally you would iron in between each tuck which makes them lay nicer and less prone to shifting but as I used heat-sensitive pen I didn't iron the piece until all of them were done this was a lengthy process [Music] once all the tucks were done and moved on to the lace insertion there is a lot of it on this blouse so I'll only really explain it once and try to keep the rest short this is the same method I use for my Edwardian combinations which I thought worked well first I sew down the lace that has been basted along both long edges I did this in a short stitch and in a discrete piece of the lace [Music] I then went end in from the wrong side and cut the faragon between those two stitch lines [Music] and then iron these little flaps of fabric outwards these iron folds are then six that stitched over and trimmed back it's a pretty neat finish [Music] [Music] I then had to cut into all this hard work and it was kind of heartbreaking so I kept all a little leftover scraps for his reasons I placed the yoke on the rectangle making sure the middle of the yoke aligned with the middle of the rectangle and particularly in the middle of a section of pintuck so that they would then look well against the pin tucks on the blouse I said pin tucks now like a thousand times [Music] [Music] I mark the shape and notches and then cut it out I then use the same method to mark and do the pin tags at the center front of the blouse [Music] the next instruction was to sew up the side seams I think a good finish for this lightweight blouse would have been French seams but I wasn't confident that I wouldn't need alterations so instead I sewed normal seams which are flat felled further on I didn't need out any alterations in the end [Music] placing my pattern back on the blouse pieces I use a tracing wheel to mark the lace insertion placement again there are better methods but personally I hate using carbon paper and this worked for me the wheel left little marks on the fabric that were easy to see but disappeared once the fabric was ironed I tested the scrap before doing this once I had the guide mark so I pinned my lace into place and repeated the process as described there is a lost a lot of lace insertion I better pick a good soundtrack for this [Music] the lace on the blouse is interesting it overlaps in some places for this I decided which strand of lace was on top and made sure this was mixed in both sides of the blouse and then sewed on one strand first and then the other sewing lace overlay [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] the next step was to sew two rows of gathering stitches across the top of the glass front between the notches I set my machine to the longest stitch [Music] securing one of the threads around a pin I then pulled on the bobbin thread from one end distributing the gathers until is sufficiently gathered it helped to pin to the yoke while gathering us at a strategic point such as the middle and the ends I use the pin to stroke the gathers to make them look nicer this was basted in Sun by machine [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] and then trim back the yoke seam allowance as this was pokey er and folded over the blouse seam allowance pinning into place and felling by hand [Music] [Music] I moved on to working on the back yolks 2 rows of gathering stitches our Sun between the notches on the back I used the same method of pinning the yoke on and then card ring as needed to fit this was pin basted in Sun bat machine I also fell this by hand [Music] [Music] the ties are ironed inwards and folded in half so there are no raw edges they then recommend you can top stitch this in place but I of course deciding free time is not a necessity so the edges by hand with a small whip stitch [Music] these are then positioned at the back of the blouse where there are another two rows of gathering stitches which I showed myself sawing but cannot remember where the ties are pinned into place and then gathering stitches are pulled to fit matching a notch on the tie I tied off the gathering stitches and then pin the tie over this can also be machine son but instead new yesterday I'm doing it by hand for the collar I cut out strips of lace to match the required length then I saw this together by hand whip stitching them together [Music] [Music] the final strip of lace has one row of gathering stitches done by machine the bobbin thread was pulled together and the lace becomes this one curled strand from hell that won't lay flat after taming it into position I pinned it on top of the edge of the color and sewed it in place by hand this past construction would have been a lot quicker if I just used my bloody machine [Music] then I turn down a rock top edge of the blouse hemming it into place [Music] at this point I realized I had a knack she finished the back hedges I just kept over that by the instructions so I turned the raw edges under this is a large seam allowance to allow for the closure this was whip stitch down [Music] and then finished hemming and good touch the common [Music] the color was pinned into place and sewn together [Music] the last step was to work on the sleeves I decided to not do the lace insertion as on the pattern I'd like to say this was a stylistic decision but honestly I was sick and tired of lace insertion by this point and I just wanted it done so instead I just cut out the sleeves and sewed up the side seams the seams were felled by hand leaving a small gap at the bottom so I can get it on and off [Music] [Music] then so too was gathering stitches at the sleeve head between notches I pinned the sleeve on matching the notches and then pulled the bobbin thread together as needed keeping most of the gathers to the top in front of the sleeve [Music] this was then basted in Sun by machine [Music] to finish this I encased it in lace tape by wrapping the tape around the trim seam allowance and so sewing it by machine I finished the gap with the calf by turning the raw edges under and stitching it [Music] [Music] I sewed two rows of gathering stitches a quarter of an inch apart of the cuff for the cuff the patent describes a historical cuff which as far as I can tell issues a bias bound cuff without the gab instead I used the patent to cut out two strips of lace these were sewn together by hand across the top [Music] I then turn the short edges under and sew those down to I gather the cuffs to fit the lace and then quickly put the gathers through my machine to secure them [Music] this edges then fit in between the two strips of lace and sewn by hand I've lost this footage sorry [Music] last step is to hem the bottom of the blouse and to sew on five thousand hooks in eyes at the center back [Music] and those done I love this blouse it's lovely and comfortable and delicate and everything I wanted from this pattern I am bit torn on a color not sure I like the ruffle bit but it's staying on for now and I would say there are two options for the length of the back I chose the longer one and the blouse is still a little short for me so I'll just keep that in mind [Music] [Applause] thank you so much for watching and I'll see you soon for more history bounding wardrobe adventures you

Channel: Cat's Costumery

Views: 78,865

Rating: 4.9893746 out of 5

Keywords: sewing, sew, costume, historical, costube, gibson, gibson girl, edwardian, period, 20th century, turn of the century, folkwear patterns, lace, lace shirt, lace blouse, shirtwaist, waist, historically inspired, costumery, historybound, historybounding

Id: KrmeGHBjdTg

Length: 25min 5sec (1505 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 17 2020