Making a lining for a denim jacket : Simplicity s8845

[Music] hi hello it's alexander welcome back to my channel today we're going to be talking about making a lining for a jean jacket specifically specifically this mimi g jacket by simplicity s8845 i have made this jacket before and always thought why not have a lining so in this video we're gonna get right into it and i'm gonna show you how i made a lining for this jacket now in this video i'll be showing you how i made a pattern for the lining and added the lining to the shell of the jacket the outside is called the shell the lining is called the lining if you are looking for a video on step by step on how to make this jacket i'll leave the link below i will preface right now that when making this jacket with the lining depending on one the type of lining you're using you may need to go up one size normally i wear a size large but because of the lining i'm using i'm going up to an extra large just to give me that extra room inside because the lining in most cases will take up that extra space in my case i'm using faux fur for the front panel and the back panel and then a thicker satin lining for the sleeves this will provide me an excellent warm jean jacket for the winter i do live in canada without further ado let's just get right into this project and get sewing let's start off by tracing our pattern for the lining we're going to do first is find naturally our pattern pieces from the tissue pattern and then just start tracing them tracing them as you normally would if you're using this as a regular pattern just trace everything out that you think you'll need for this jacket we'll need the front the collar the back and the sleeve pieces [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] once everything is traced out this is what we have collar sleeves an actual jacket bodice we're going to be using the actual body of the jacket to make changes for the lining so what we need to do is work with the actual body of the jacket because i am using swedish tracing paper as you can see here i can sew this together and that is what i'm doing i'm basically just sewing together the front panels and the back panels to make this basically a representation of the jacket now what we need to do is take all of our pieces and look what we need to do next next we really need to work on the front we're just going to fold over the front this would be the this would be the front facings and we're just going to do this is if this was a regular fabric as you can see what i'm doing here again we're doing this for the lining now this is something we really have to focus in on the front panels as you can see this is the sewn front panel with the facings still on now if we were going to sew or cut the fabric to match that it would not fit inside there it's just the way it goes so what we need to do is make sure everything is pressed nicely with the front facings turned under as if it was a finished jacket that includes the seam allowances everything match up those notches those tailor tags and make sure it all lies flat [Music] [Music] this includes tucking under any seam allowances or fold unders that is what i'm doing here making sure it all lies nice and flat make sure that when you did trace out your pattern you make sure to have all those on there as you can see here the front facing is folded under so we need to draw a line where that front facing stops on the inside of the jacket you draw it on the outside though it also helps if you have a pen that is working once you get a working pen you're going to draw a line where that facing folds to see right now i'm just drawing a line there making sure it matches where the facing ends see right there now we're going to need to draw a seam allowance for the lining so it tucks under that facing in this case i'm going to be doing 3 8 of an inch that gives a nice sturdy hold once sewn in place 3 8 of an inch also does not impede anywhere into the button hole area you don't want to have to sew through so many layers when doing a buttonhole the 3 8 means it tucks under the facing nicely and avoids any button holes [Music] draw that line nice and thick so you know where it is and what you're going to do now is fold the pattern piece there this creates your front pattern piece notice all the fabric you're going to save but that is the size of the pattern piece you need to cut now this means it will nicely tuck underneath the seam allowances and the facings and everything will work there i'm just sort of marking the 3 8 inch seam allowance and this will again tuck under the facing you really want to make sure that it catches that facing when you're sewing it all together [Music] and you can double check this just by folding everything over as you can see here it will catch so we're good to go i will say as we cut everything out it's always good to have good sharp scissors when cutting denim and faux fur really even the satin lining for that matter these are somewhat difficult materials to cut if you do not have the right sharp scissors so you might want to invest in some of those [Music] cutting everything out is next as you can see here here is the cutout for the actual shell of the jacket this would be the actual denim i didn't really film that because one wife camera died but here you get this you get the point next we're going to move on to the jacket now the jacket sleeves we are just going to pin onto the fabric as if you were just doing a regular jacket as you can see here i am using a thicker satin lining this will be because i'm in canada and sometimes it can get cold and i want this to be a warm jean jacket and the actual body of the jacket the part that touches your torso i am using faux fur in this case white chinchilla faux fur probably not the best choice but it was super soft and it feels really nice now i'm just gonna be pinning this if you ever use faux fur before um it can be tricky to pin but just pin and go as long as normal [Music] now again i am using faux fur not the easiest fabric to work with and let's be honest it will shed shed a lot the dreaded faux fur shed you will need a good vacuum cleaner if you are working with faux fur i am calling the outer part of the jacket the shell and for the purposes of this video i am not going to be doing a step by step if you would like a step by step sew along for this particular simplicity pattern i will leave a link below [Music] [Music] [Music] this is just sort of a progress as to how everything was taken care of including buttons general jacket assembly so as you can see we have got most of the jacket put together now i should tell you there are certain areas that we need to stop at so let's take a look at those [Music] so in part of adding the lining you're going to need to stop at number 26 you do not want to fold over or sew down the front here see it's still pinned it's still ready to go we're going to be inserting the lining underneath that so do not go past number 26 in the instructions but you then need to skip to number 29 you then need to skip to number 29 to complete the back area [Music] because you have to actually make the jacket to get the lining into it you then need to skip to the sleeve section and do the sleeves or at least add them to the bodice of the jacket but when in saying that there is this part of the sleeve which is the cuff part down here which you're only going to do the top stitching for until the green dot or the green taylor stack that you have in your pattern this will leave this section in here the cuff area completely raw up the sides and again we need these to be raw so that we can add the lining so again you're basically going to do almost everything to the jacket except oh also notice how there is no collar do not add that collar yet repeat do not add that collar yet so you have the basic bodice here ready to go the front is not fully finished though and neither are these arm cuffs and neither is the bottom everything else inside the jacket is finished [Music] and because we are doing this jacket with a lining we do not need to do full flat felled seams we can just sort of make up faux flat felled seams let's continue on once the shell of the jacket was complete it was time to sew the lining now ago again faux fur is not the easiest thing to sew you may need to get out your walking foot or you might need to change your presser foot pressure if your machine does have that [Music] now again you may not be using faux fur and a satin lining you may be using shearling for the entire coat or just a plain cotton lining but again if you're using fabrics like mine take your time use lots of pins you're basically making a jacket that's going to go inside another jacket lining and a shell [Music] and you are just going to sew this lining at the regular seam allowances here we are with a full lining done the chinchilla for a back and then the satin sleeves the satin sleeves make it easier for you to slide your arm all the way through and just like the shell of the jacket on the sleeve i have left the sleeve cuff area undone i just did sewing to the tailor's tack as per the instructions [Music] now it's time to marry the lining to the actual shell so we are going to slip the lining inside matching up the seams where appropriate making sure those seams match are very important because if they don't the lining will not sit correctly inside the shell this also includes the seams in the sleeve and the seam along the neck [Music] at the sleeve cuff this is where you're going to turn under the shell and the sleeve cuff lining to the appropriate width this way it will be nicely seamed when you go back to sew it as you can see in this close up here again i'm using lots of pins see how i did that on the cuff opening lots of pins turned back were appropriate and pinned in place now it's time to go to the other sections [Music] adding the lining to the shell of the jacket can be tricky depending on the type of lining you are using in my case faux fur it's almost like manhandling a cow up a back staircase fussy and can go all over the place be patient again if you are doing this you will need to use some good sharp pins to hold everything into place [Music] i will say this once again i cannot stress enough how important it is to match up every seam this includes the seams at the bottom one quick note is because this has pockets you may need to turn the pocket slightly to get that seam lined up they will lay flat in the end just make sure you do that [Music] it's also very important while you're doing this to make sure that you have everything lined up for when you fold over the facings on this jacket it covers the raw edges of the lining in this case faux fur was a little made it more difficult but you want to cover those raw edges with a turned over facing you'll notice this in your instructions that there will be a turned over facing follow that and make sure that your lining goes underneath that but only by a quarter to three-eighths of an inch [Music] once you have the lining in i always like to do a nice stay stitch or baste it down at about a quarter of an inch this will just sort of hold everything in place so there won't be anything shifting around on you plus it means you can take out all those pins [Music] [Music] [Music] this is one of the great things about doing a lining this way you don't have to do any flipping you don't have to do any turning inside out because the way the cuffs and the hem and the collar go on that will conceal all the raw edges here i am pinning the cuff to the sleeve making sure to line up all my notches don't be a naughty notch ignorer [Music] really from this point on you are just continuing on the sewing process from the instructions now that you have the lining base it in you just finish the coat and garment it makes it so easy and so simple to add a lining to this jacket [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] and because you've put everything in place everything looks nice look at that cuff now i'm using color matching thread i'll go over with a jean thread afterwards but look at that the lining is nicely concealed in that cuff no raw edges finishing once we've got all the cuff color and hem band on is really just adding the decorative top stitching in this case using jean thread which is generally thicker and is a yellow orange color this will make it a true jean jacket also it helps if you have enough thread i just ran out now again for the purposes of this video it was more to show you that you can add a lighting to this jacket easily and shows you how to do it now that we've got everything done it's time for a fashion show to see how this all turned out [Music] [Music] so [Music] so [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] so there you have it one finished jean jacket with a lining faux fur and satin in my case it's not a difficult process you just have to take your time and make sure you get everything lined up if you have any comments please leave them below i'm always interested in knowing what you think of my projects or if you like my videos anything of that nature or if you have any future video suggestions i have taken note of some and i've had them worked into my schedule if you liked this video please give it a thumbs up don't forget to hit the subscribe button and if you like hit the bell icon so that you get notified when my next videos come out bye now have a good day [Music] you

Channel: Alexander O'Kane

Views: 920

Keywords: s8845, sewing, men who sew, fashion, men's fashion, denim, denim jacket, jean jacket, simplicity, mimi g, simplicity s8845, sewing men's wear, mimi g style, sewing pattern, sewing blog, sewing clothing

Id: RLo7AXWjVYQ

Length: 26min 25sec (1585 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 14 2021