Making a Handbuilt Slab Teapot - Rounding a Cylinder, Making a Spout, Hollow Handle, L

[Music] hi this video is going to be using soft slaps and I'm showing the process of making a teapot with us about a hollow handle collar lid and foot ring because this video is making a more advanced form if you are not familiar with how to make a really good cylinder you start with some of my simpler videos first I will put a link in the video description but on how to make a cylindrical cup or the cylindrical Bowl would be a good place to start before you go to something more advanced like a teapot I'm going through some of these rolling processes more quickly I've sped it up in this particular video I roll and flip and rotate the clay to stretch it in multiple directions so it will fit my patterns and I constantly release it from the table because it wants to get stuck to the canvas and then I rib it with some ribs here I'm using mud tool ribs again you can follow me on Amazon or check in the Google Doc for links to those tools now that my clay is red I'm going to go ahead and texture for the texturing here I'm using an mkm wooden texture roller these are wonderful little rollers I have some links in the Google Doc to those and also I have them noted on my Amazon influencer storefront now with the clay texture time put my patterns on top and cut it out with a needletool I prefer to use a needle tool when I'm cutting out patterns because I'm knife sometimes can get hung up on the edge of the pattern but the needle tool just rides against the side of it going to turn the textured bottom over and I'm going to bevel I'm using the sim or as I am bevel cutter I am going to use the larger of the two bevels I do like to make sure that it really overlaps well and you can see that now I'm scoring the bevels that are going to overlap I score the bottom edge of the side the interior edge of the side on bottom and the top of the base all right I've prepped the top of the bottom and I've prepped the two beveled sides and the bottom edge and just the inside of the bottom edge of the wall so everything is scored now I'm just adding some slip and I'll just restore I like to really make sure have a great connection here and going to build this on top of the base since I'm using a round to base to begin with I'm being very careful to make sure that I'm keeping the form round to match that original round shape of that base all right so I've now put my two bevels together on the wall and I'm going to just take the end of a knife and blend I love the rounded end of those Kemper wooden knives for that blending of the seams it's a nice gentle tool to do that all right so have the inside of the seam is blended and now I'm going to add a coil down in the area where I scored I'm rolling a coil that's probably about as thick as a pencil on this and then I'm scoring it and then I will slip it and put it in the bottom the reason I have scored all the way around the coils is because when I put it in the pot it might rotate and I just want to make sure that scoring is down in the corner and now I'm just placing the scored and slipped coil down in the bottom corner okay now I have the coil laying down in there and now I'm going to blend and I'm using the same rounded end of the wooden knife for blending that I did for the side seam all right now I have it blended and now I just need to smooth it I'm gonna turn this sideways smooth a little bit more don't forget if you're interested in these tools I do have links in my Amazon influencers storefront and on the Google Doc that's in the video description but these are great for blending alright now I have that coil blended on the inside now I would like to billow this out a little bit and just like I did in the cylinder and the bowl video I'm going to hold my fingers at the top and bottom of the wall sometimes it's helpful if you have a little water on your fingers so they slide freely on the inside of the wall as you billow it out this clay is very very plastic today so this is pretty much the last step that I'm able to do on this day the reason that I keep my fingers at the top and the bottom of the wall is it keeps me from stretching out those areas I just want to stretch the middle part one of the keys when stretching and rounding the form is to really look at it make sure that it is uniform all the way around and looks equivalent now I have to give I have to give the wall a little bit of time to stiffen up before I can make the curve on the bottom so I'm going to allow this to stiffen just a little bit before I come back I actually never recommend the use of a hairdryer with my students because they have a difficult time regulating how fast it's drying normally I would just allow it to dry exposed for a couple of hours but I was in a pinch to try to get this built within a half an hour so I took a hairdryer to it alright my walls have now stiffened up enough that I can hold it without really causing much damage and now I can go ahead and stretch the base like I wanted to so the idea is when you're stretching the bottom I went to really kind of round this interior corner by pushing my thumb right up against it and I'm just trying to really round it on the interior I want to make sure that this has more of a roundish appearance and less of a flat slab appearance I'm going to take a roller kind of roll down this edge a little bit to make sure that it embeds into the wall and if I want to I can retexture a little bit and here I'm just trying to put a little bit of finishing touch on the actual shape to get it rounded cleaning it up some I am placing it in inside of a bowl just to offer it a little bit more support I just don't want to place it directly on the bottom and flatten it out trying to keep that bottom and curved my goal will be to get this leather hard or very close to leather hard and then I can put the top of piano long and this is the circular panel which will become the top collar and Here I am just laying out and going to rib some clay and then retexture it in order to cut the spout out of this so in my classroom and I have a basic teapot spout pattern for anyone that's ever done any sewing it looks somewhat like a sleeve of you know a garment I know this is significantly larger than I actually need so I am going to not cut it the entire length but I will shorten this end here and [Music] this is only an approximation because when you are putting a spout on you always cut it to actually match the form a little bit more and Here I am beveling both edges of the spout just like when you're making a cylinder you bevel the ends I'm scoring and slipping and then as I ease it together you want to kind of put it together slowly and you want to make sure that the bevels are overlapping I have some of these hardwood spout makers and it's really just like a tapered dowel you could use a dowel rod or the end of a paintbrush on the inside but I have some of these in my classroom so show my kids that I can use those and then making sure that it's overlapping and I'm even gonna run the texture roller right over that seam a little bit okay now I am going to blend the interior because down in there I don't know if you can see it but that is a pretty pronounced seam so I'll take a small tool and blend and smooth and here I'm just speeding this up but I'm really blending the interior of that seem quite well on both sides of this baton then I'm going to smooth it out on the inside with a paintbrush now for the tip of this I usually thin the rim a little bit more if I did this again I would have thinned it before I rolled it up and I would have made this out a little bit thinner and skinnier at the end and then when you think about how it sits on the body I usually like to have a little bit of a belly so with my finger on the inside this is where the seam is up here I'm going to stretch this kind of belly out the bottom end of the spout and I'm just continuing to stretch the base of the spout to make it even all the way around so I add almost a twist or it just a slight Bend I like to I like to make it so it's not really stiff looking like a cone but again I'll put a little twist on it like that so it will come up and flow out and I will store this with the teapot and get them both leather hard now I'm going to show how to make a hollow handle and I have a pattern here I use the same handle for say like a pitcher handle like this one or a teapot handle I just lengthen it for the teapot so in the case of this one I've textured my slab already and I just I like to make sure that it extend a little bit beyond therefore the teapot I'm going to bevel the two long edges just like with the cylinder so the bevels are going to be overlapping and then of course I'm going to score and slip both of the beveled edges now when you go to put together the handle the trick is you want to allow it to begin to curve and you have to kind of gently coax it into meeting as you are trying to curve it so as I begin to overlap these you can see how it's kind of coming together and I'm not really terribly worried about making it super super super clean because that seam is going to be on the underneath side and I don't mind this invisible and of course I'm arching it around I'm just read texturing a little bit right there and then I arch it I will be storing it on a tray now this one after I did this one I realized that's just maybe a little bit fatter than I really wanted so I usually do a couple handles just like I do with a mug I'm going to do a second one but this time I'm going to thin it out just a little bit more than I did on the first one so you can see the difference between the handle and the teapot there that the the one on the teapot is physically a lot skinnier so I'm just thinning it I was just kind of stretching it by you know tossing it on the table rib and then I'm going to texture it in the same manner oh I wanted to get it a little bit thinner and a little bit longer there so adding a little bit of texture now as I use this pattern I'm going to go longer and that I'm going to thin out the side so I'm going to take a little bit more off on the sides and now that I have a cut I'm going to bevel the same way that I did on the first one babbling both the sides so they're gonna match up score and then I'll slip and again I'm focusing on it kind of gently curving it kind of coaxing it around trying to get it into that rounded handle shape as I'm putting together the seamed edges and again I do recommend that you make a couple handles you will inevitably always have one handle that looks a little bit better than the other and you'll have a better selection to choose from and what I will do is I will store this on a plastic tray covered with a bag and I'll get it to be the same moisture as the rest of the pot I want to allow everything to dry together and we come the same oyster now I'm just going to wrap all the parts together tightly in a bag so the moisture will even out between them all so I can add them when they're the same way stir okay so I've been storing my spouts in the upper flange slab and the tea pot for a couple of days wrapped up tightly and it just no leather hard now that it is a little bit stiffer I can redefine the bottom a little bit more I'm going to just take a rounded rib and kind of come in here and make sure that this looks even from the exterior so as I push that out I want to make sure that it looks pretty pretty good pretty even and I'm really compressing right on the seam where I put those two together and here I'm just continuing to round it to really refine that form okay now the initial slab that I cut out I think I'm gonna trim that down a little bit it's just a little larger than I was hoping it would be and with this sped up a little bit now I'm just trimming down the size of the circle a little bit to make it a little smaller and after looking at it I want to then go ahead and cut the middle but first I'm going to mark so I can then put the circular template dead center and then cut out the middle so using a little drafting template I cut out the hole for the lid now I'm going to take I just have some biscuits that I made a Drake mold and I'm going to drape this collar I'll call it a collar on this teapot so it curves and angles down the way that I would like it to and just speeding this up a little bit where I Justin shaping it to that domed contour and then I can put this on there I just need to make sure that it's level and centered and the attachment part would be like attaching anything you need to make sure that you're scoring and slipping really well I'm being very very active with the scoring that I'm doing and there I'm just applying some slip and then just need to make sure it's big enough and I'm also going to do the top edge of the wall same thing really making sure this is going to be a good tight connection slipping that then I'm actually rolling a coil scouring the entire coil slipping that and I'm placing it between them so it's a squishy coil that's going to be between the collar and the wall I forgot to mention that I blended the coil to the side of the wall before I put the collar on okay now I'm looking across this so I can get this level and then where I put the coil in there and I blended it already to the teapot body now I can take the coil and blend it upward into the collar as well and again I just want to speed this part up a little bit but I'm blending blindly I can't see what I'm doing but I'm just blending that as smooth as I can with my finger while making sure that the edges look good now I'm going to flatten out some clay because I need a little bit more so I can make a foot ring I could have used the slab sticks I just and just kind of winging it there by throwing it out texturing and then I'm using one of the hardwood slab sticks to make the height of my foot ring so I know it's even I cut the ends at a bevel and then I try that out I decided to take a little bit more off and I know that the beveled ends will overlap slippin score and won those and then I'm going to roll out a bit more clay this time using slab sticks and texturing and this will be the template for the lid the circle of course is larger than the opening that I have already cut and I'm also going to put that on the dome so I know it's going to form the same dome shape and here I'm just cutting a strip which will be the flange for the interior of the lid which sticks down in the pot and it gives it some weight and it holds the lid on so I've reversed the mold now and I put the lid on the inside I've made my flange just like foot ring slipped and scored and attach that and blending it a little bit with a little bit of slip adding an interior coil that I've squirting slipped and I'm blending that as well that will give it a little bit of extra strength to have that little coil in there and now here I'm just kind of placing and flaring the foot ring on that domed mold to get a sense of what it would look like on the bottom of the rounded teapot and after I like the form of that foot ring I set it to the side to stiffen and here it has to end up for a little bit and I'm going to be attaching by scoring and slipping the foot ring to the bottom of the pot adding a little coil and blending it for a little bit more stability and I'm just taking a paint brush and cleaning up different things on the outside now when you're ready to attach a spout you want to think about how you're going to place the spout on there what kind of angle how tall it's going to be so here you can see I'm holding it behind the pop and keeping the opening of the spout to be higher than the level of the liquid that will be in the top body if the spout is down to low the liquid will dribble out and you want to think about it not being too long so I'm holding it behind it so I can get a sense of the contour that I'm going to be cutting the end of the spout I always make the spout bigger and then I end up by needing to mark it and trim away some to put it on and attach it at an angle so I have marked it there with my knife and now you can see I'm shading it definitely at an angle because I need this bout to have an uplift again sometimes beginners put their spout sticking straight out and the liquid can only be filled up halfway in the teapot now here I'm really working on the contour to make sure that the contour is going to match the pot body okay you can see it's curved to match the pot body and then I'm going to mark the exterior of this now marking the exterior is just an indication of where the outside is going to be that's not wearing padding the hole and different people cut the holes differently sometimes with teapots some people do small holes and they do a strainer I don't I use a tee ball instead so I'm going to cut an interior hole which is bigger so the tee just flows and passes right through and then I'm going to kind of just punch that out and then I'm doing it at a bit of a bevel so the hole gets wider as it goes in there and it helps the tee to kind of flow out more naturally and then of course scoring and slipping both the end of the spouts where it attaches and the pot body and I often add one extra thing here when I'm hand building a teapot I sometimes will add a little coil which is what I'm going to do here because these walls are pretty thin it's only a quarter of an inch in thickness I'm rolling a coil I'm going to score and slip the coil and then I'm going to firmly attach it to the pot body itself before I attach the spout it just gives you a little bit more stability so when you go to attach it it it gives you a little squishy extra bit of clay there and I hold my hand on the inside of the pot as I firmly push it against it and I want to make sure again it has the uplift that I need it to have you don't want it to be sticking out to horizontally needs what needs to be straight to you don't want it to be crooked when you put it on that's a an important factor and when cleaning it up I use a paint brush and really seal that make sure it looks clean and tidy I always like to make sure that I'm pushing firmly on the interior against the wall to make sure it's really well connected now for the handle you can see that I have to modify that angle to get it to match onto the collar so just like modifying the spout you have to get it the contour to match so you also want to make sure that this is also completely aligned with the spout you don't want it to be off and crooked that's always disappointing and when I make sure that my angle looks like it's matching and I'm clearing the lid I set the lid on there to make sure that I knew I wasn't hitting the lid then I will attach it similar to the way that I attached this belt score and slip rolling the coil and just a really firm firm firm attachment now because this is a hollow handle one thing I'm not too sure if I show it here in the video but I do take a needle tool and I will pierce it and make one simple needle to a hole someplace in the handle so it will act as a little vent hole since right now it's just trapped there but of course make sure it's very thoroughly dry before you fire it too now I'm just doing a little alteration on the tip I probably wouldn't do this again I don't think it poured as well once I did this it made it a little too wide I think but I was just doing a little decorative and cleaning it up with a paintbrush and now for the lid I wanted to think about creating a handle which kind of mimicked the handle of the teapot so I'm using a small little coil texturing it and I'm arching it so it's going to look a little bit like the arched handle and then I sized it and make sure it looks ok before I score and slip this on so there you can see that's what that looks like and then I'm going to score and slip this and that's the process I use on making a slab teapot don't forget to follow me on Amazon or check out the Google Doc links and let me know if you have any questions in the comments [Music]

Channel: KaransPotsAndGlass

Views: 61,382

Rating: 4.8823528 out of 5

Keywords: clay, ceramic, stoneware, earthenware, make, demonstrate, create, how to, how, to, demo, show, tea, teapot, serving, spout, handle, lid, lidded, pour, porcelain, coffee, pot, pouring, footring, handbuild, handbuilding, slab, slabs, textured, soft, cylinder, bowl, mkm, rollers, wood, wooden, xiem, bevel, cutter, score, slip, pattern, glaze, functional, Karan, Amazon, etsy, Witham, Walsh, Lebanon, ohio, mason, youtuber, best, watch

Id: noMf0LOYXXo

Length: 29min 19sec (1759 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 29 2019