Making a 2 Piece Vise For The Milling Machine

foreign [Music] [Music] so let's start off by porting out the obvious this is a pretty big chunk of metal and probably unsurprising given that I do do Machining down here I'm going to be Machining it pretty soon it's nothing hugely complicated just a few holes in Pockets but I also plan to face it and hopefully do that in one operation and that's going to present a bit of an issue when actually holding it down to the mill the bar of metal is roughly 150 by 300 mils and with the vice that I have it can only hold about 100 110 ml of stock 140 maximum if you take all the Jaws out and that simply isn't enough now it is possible to flip the jaws and put it on the back that's what those threaded holes are for but even if I did do that I'd be faced with about 120 mils of overhang on each side and that's simply more than I'm comfortable with plus I'm almost certain that the top surface of the Jaws that the pub will be sitting on isn't exactly flat or at least parallel to the main body obviously it's not a hugely expensive voice and I can't imagine that this was at the top list of priorities when grinding it in so if I was going to do that I'd probably want to get that checked in and ground at least flat and that brings us to now what I'm going to do is I'm going to make one of those two-piece split vices it should allow me the flexibility to clamp large pieces of work to the table and that should if everything goes to plan it should allow me to face it in one operation I have a spare piece of 50mm thick 10 20 grade steel and what I'll do is I'll mark it up and get a few pieces cut out now between you and me I'm not exactly sure if this would have been my first choice of material at least size wise but the new angle grinder definitely was able to chew through them but I guess even at the end I did have to break out the hacksaw [Music] foreign and that's our three pieces of stock cut out I'll have two pieces for the moving jaw at least one end and one for the fixture so before I go any further I do want to point out that what I'm doing here is a bit of an experimental design I'm sure we've all seen this old Turnage design and you know what it's actually a pretty good voice so good in fact that I built it twice the first time I made it was about four years ago for a milling machine that wasn't mine and as much as I'd like to show you a photo of it unfortunately it seems to have been lost to time the second one I made was for when I used my Surline lathe as a milling machine I attached a third axis to it and the easiest way to get advice onto it was to make a two-piece Vise it was a great little bit of kit but what I found out after using it for a little bit was I was getting a bit of jaw lift now I was only getting it on parts that were being popped up on parallels and held by the top bit of the jaw but it was definitely there and lifting the Jaws is just bad news all round it can significantly reduce the clamping force on the pass and that's why my middle voice uses an angle lock style and the nut pulls the jaw downwards the absolute last thing that you want is for your part to fly out of the vise and that's what fingers crossed is where my design improves upon the old design but before I can do anything else I need to quickly clean up the parts my angle grinding is okay but those parts still came out very rough so to clean the parts up I'll first come in with the face Mill to remove a bulk of the material and I can take a three or four mil depth of cut the three Cutters can remove a huge amount of material but they don't leave the best of finishes foreign I can now come in with a fly cutter with a button insert and clean it up and give it a mirror finish I'll give it a quick deeper and then we can machine the other sides all right one down three and that's the three pieces cleaned up did produce a fair amount of mess though I managed to do all the important faces but I'll tackle the sides later I don't currently have an envelope long enough and fly cutting tool pieces hasn't always gotten me the greatest of finishes for now though we can now start to machine the moving jaw which I'll first mark up this design will have a large cut out of the back and as a result we're going to need to remove a big chunk of material now the face remove that I've been using is just the wrong shape for doing this drop of cuts so I'll have to resort to using a roughing and nil to do most of the work roughing end mills are pretty awesome because they can come in and remove a huge amount of material in one pass except they produce a pretty rough finish so we'll have to come in later with the finishing and Mill and clean it up now because I'm removing so much material I want to flood it with the coolant the coolant should stop the End Mill from burning up and it should also help carry away the chips and I've got to say the building machine with its new motor and it being full of lead is really chewing through all that material and I'm really impressed with how it's going all right and that's the roughing done I'll come in with a finishing End Mill and clean it up well and that's the bottom side done definitely wasn't my sharpest End Mill but it looks really nice next I need to machine a 40-ish degree slope on the back Edge that'll be for the clamping mechanism now in a perfect world I'd machine this with the Tilt Vise and that would be that but unfortunately I don't have a proper one but what I do have is this old drill press Vise with a piece of round bar bolted to the front it does a great job with light Machining so fingers crossed it can handle this the round bar will get clamped in the big vice and that will tilt the other Vise at the correct angle and to do the Machining I'll be using the fly cutter with an aluminum cutting insert the inserts are sharp and it should keep the cutting Force as low as possible the only real issue that I have is these inserts don't last that long carbide's not really the greatest material for doing interrupted Cuts with and for what it's worth these inserts aren't really made for Machining Steel with that said it still produces a really good finish so the next thing I need to do is machine a dimple into the face and I'll start by drilling a small four millimeter pilot hole I'll then swap over to a 20 millimeter ball and Mill and then start to plunge down now almost immediately it was pretty obvious that this setup wasn't going to be rigid enough I mean it was probably obvious beforehand but it should be pretty clear now but unfortunately I don't have much of an alternative so I put on some noise canceling earmuffs close the workshop door and went to town on it [Music] [Applause] and eventually it was machined foreign [Laughter] the final thing left to do is add two holes at the front so I can bold his head of soft Jaws on and that is the first part done next we can start to machine the bottom part of the moving jaw our first machine a step on each side to allow it to slide under the top piece and doing this is pretty straightforward with the dro next I need to make a cutout to match the radius left by the End Mill on the top part I could have folded in by hand but I think a 45 degree chamfer does the job and the parts now fit together really nicely there is a little bit of movement but it's still a very good fit we can now finish off the rest of the locking mechanism now originally the plan was to bore a 16 mil hole to the body for a piece of Rod but it quickly became obvious that I'm not going to be able to do this I'd need a four jaw Chuck for the lathe and I don't have one yet this should be a great example of it looking really easy in SolidWorks but actually making it in real life yeah that's not so easy so instead I had to think of a different more realistic approach so what I'll do is I'll put the part back in the Tilt Vice and then I'll plunge down with an angel to create a flat spot foreign well I wasn't really planning that but you know what this is a pretty good example of dual lift causing a lot of trouble you can probably see just how counted over that moving jaw is and how little is actually holding on there's a good reason why I don't use this Firestone building anymore but unfortunately I don't have a good alternative so I'll tighten this one up as much as I can and I'll back off the pressure definitely a really cool example but this part is going to need fixing with the flat spot now made I'll go in with a four millimeter drill and I'll drill that through the whole body I'll then follow it halfway with a 12 millimeter drill I can now flip it around and then use that hole that I drilled before for alignment and then I can go in with the big End Mill [Applause] foreign [Applause] was a little bit long for this Mill so I just cut it down my cut down on the flex and why magma shooting this a little bit nicer the final thing left to do is clean up that top face and then drill and counterbore two holes for some M10 screws all right [Laughter] and that is the bottom piece done we can now finish up the moving jaw assembly by Machining up the Locking balls which I'll make using the ball Turner on the lathe the first piece I'll be making is a 20 millimeter ball with an M8 thread tapped all the way through it [Applause] thank you the second piece is just a half sphere with an eight millimeter through hole foreign [Music] [Applause] polished up but I left the ball a little bit rough to allow it to give a bit of bite when it gets tightened the vinyl thing left to do is machine the fixed jaw now the cuts are pretty straightforward but it just means removing a lot of material [Music] and you can probably see here the coolant does a great job at removing all those small chips produced by the roughing End Mill definitely had to remove a lot of material and it definitely took a lot of life out of this end Mill [Applause] all right foreign all in all it actually looks really nice so let's get it all assembled and see if it works as you can probably guess the ball sits down in that recess that we cut on the bottom and the screw will pull the top jaw forwards and downwards in effect this will make the Clapping action but it will also make sure that the jaw doesn't lift and that's because the jaw is being pulled down into the work piece I still would have preferred to use a proper pin rather than a ball but I think for a vice this size it will still work and of course the rough texture that I left on the ball means that there's enough bite on it so that it doesn't just spin in the socket the final thing left to do is make a set of aluminum soft drawers and we can then test it out and see if it works all right and just to simplify all the Machining of set up a vice stop and doing it this way means I don't have to reset the dro every time I change out the part all right foreign and that's the two-piece Vice setup it's now clamped down to the table and the jaws now only have to move about two or three millimeters in order to lock everything all very tightly down to the table it's not so tight that I'm at risk of breaking my t-slots but it's Trot enough that I'm pushing this with all my body weight and I can't get it to move all in all this is going to be perfect for doing facing Drilling and a few pockets I think I might have to raise this piece up on a few parallels just to be able to machine the top and in doing so I can't see any dual lift and that's going to be about it for the moment I'd start to machine it right now but unfortunately I don't have a fly cutter big enough to do this in one big pass so you're gonna have to wait a few weeks before I make that and then we can get stuck into Machining this big piece of Steel and then you'll be able to see this big vice in action until then thank you very much for watching hope you learned something new see you next week

Channel: Artisan Makes

Views: 118,807

Keywords: 2 piece vise, 2 piece vice, split vise, split vice, machine vise, milling machine vise, vise build, making a milling machine vise, making a 2 piece vise, making a milling machine vice, milling machine vice build, how to make a vise, milling machine 2 piece vice, milling machine split vise, mill vise, mill vice, milling machine, DIY vice, DIY mill vise, mill vise build DIY, CNC, CNC vise, CNC mill vise, t slot vice, t slot vise

Id: lPaWWocHGM8

Length: 23min 42sec (1422 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 22 2023