Magic Stud Finder! Installing LED Downlights & Wireless Switch

good morning everyone jordan here hope you're all well out there today is another sunny day here in cambridge and i'm busy installing some down lights in somebody's living room at the moment they've just got one single pendant and i'm going to be putting four recessed downlights in instead of that pendant and then relocating the pendant to a different part of the living room and i'm going to be doing some wireless switching so that the two sets of lights can be switched separately so it should be a nice little job i'll let you know how i get on as always hit a thumbs up if you like my videos don't forget to subscribe if you haven't done so already because i know that 68.7 of you haven't subscribed and that's not good enough and hit the notification bell so you don't miss out on future videos let's get into it [Music] so we're all dust sheeted up now and that just protects the floor and protects the furniture and everything so this is the current situation we've got this one light in the middle of the room and it's controlled by this one switch here what we're going to be doing is in this area we're going to be installing four recessed led down lights one in each corner and then the room's kind of divided into two so then this area is sort of like a living area they want this pendant moved to the middle of this ceiling here somewhere but obviously they don't want everything switched on together at once so what we're going to do is put a wireless receiver while two wireless receivers in the ceiling these kinetic wireless receivers and change that for a kinetic two gang switch so that essentially they can control that light separately to these recessed lights and that will just enable a little bit more flexibility without having to chase down the wall and run a new switch cable into the wall because it's a pretty solid wall so i'm going to take this pendant down and to obviously isolate the circuit first make sure it's safe take the pendant down measure up where i'm going to put the lights and i've got to figure out in the ceiling where the joists are which way they're going we might have to cut some holes to go over the joists with the cables because we can't take floorboards up up above but hopefully we can keep the damage to a minimum it just depends really where the joists are and how they go and then based on the spacing of the joists we're going to try to space the lights out about 80 centimeters from the wall 800 mil and 800 mil this way and the same in the corner there 800 mil out from there 800 mil out from there same in that corner same in that corner and then this pendant light will go in the middle of this section here so it's going to go probably about here somewhere and centered with the window so that everything lines up and looks nice so customers kindly given me a nice cup of coffee let me know your biscuit of choice in the comments and he has left me a box of biscuits but i'm trying to be good and not have sugar at the moment so i'm gonna resist the temptation to eat any biscuits but i love a good chocolate hobnob to dunk in my coffee let me know your preference of biscuit in the comments so we've got only one cable in here so that means it's probably a live switch hopefully a live switch otherwise if there's a junction box somewhere we're going to have an issue so i'm going to take this switch off and have a look if it is a live switch that's not really a problem because we can just bridge it out here so that that cable up there becomes permanent live and neutral i should have checked this when i came to do the quote really but new builds like this i mean it's not new new but it's about probably i don't know six years old they do tend to have all the cables jointed at the switch rather than at the light which i do prefer to be honest and it enables a bit more flexibility when it comes to smart lighting like because you've got a neutral at the switch you can do some kind of special things with smart lighting yeah so there we go we've got the neutrals just connected together there in a connector block the earth's uh or cpcs are connected together in the back of the box there and then we've got basically two permanent lives one in one out and then the switch live here so we can literally just connect these three together and then that will enable us to have permanent power in the ceiling to then run out from there with our two wireless controllers to our two sets of lights and then the kinetic switch that i've got here i will be able to just um pop it on over the top of this so it's got screw holes in the back which line up with the screw holes in the back box so i can literally screw that on over there and that'll look quite nice and neat and this just push and it creates a little bit of kinetic energy which sends a signal to the receiver they're really good these they're really so easy to pair up it's like really you know no brain stuff you know and the receivers are here you've just got two sets of connections in these basically live and neutral in and live and neutral out so this will just go up in the ceiling and then the out cable will go to our lights very very simple so first things first what we're going to do is just open up this so i open drill a 70 mil hole here just to create enough space to put the remote the wireless receivers in the ceiling and then that should give us an ability to fish either way as well and figure out which way the joists are going i have a feeling that they go this way in which case we're going to have to probably cut holes to go across the joists to the distance that we want to bring the down lights at but once i cut this hole i'll have a better idea so i've got a 70 mil hole cutter here with this thing what's called the dade d-a-d-e dust and debris extract eliminator and basically it just catches the dust when you drill the hole so it's a really handy little bit of kit for these kind of situations because it stops the dust going everywhere it is good to have like a bin to one side or somewhere to put the dust though because each time you cut a hole you've got the core that you need to remove and then the dust tends to build up in this um so i've got my safety glasses on i'm gonna put this mask on as well just because there will still be a little bit of dust that could get into my lungs so better to be safe than sorry the old darth vader mask and then i've got to cut this in a way that i need to be careful not to damage the cable so interesting so it's got an unusual kind of net sort of like a net mesh i reckon they must have stapled that up to the ceiling before they boarded it to hold the insulation up out of the way because it's got that kind of rock wool insulation um but in terms of joists and things it looks like we might actually be able to fish over yeah okay so it's got those it's got those metal joists um i don't know what you call them but i can feel it looks like metal joists so i think that's what it is anyway there's kind of like a wooden batten along the ceiling going this way but then there's the metal piece going up at an angle so i'm hoping that that means we can pretty much fish anywhere we want to um but i'll get my rods in in the ceiling and see if that's the case or not you will have probably seen this in previous videos if you're one of my subscribers but this is one of my favorite tools this is a super rod mega set and it's an absolute lifesaver in situations like this where you've got to fish cables through an existing building because it's so cleverly designed that it makes it really easy to fish new cables in so these rods they just screw onto each other they're a meter each and you can extend so in the set that i've got there's like 25 rods or something and you've got different thicknesses and different um like flexibility so the red ones are kind of what i would call sort of medium gauge they're the ones i use the most but you do have black ones which are really thick and you've got yellow ones which are a bit thinner so what i'm going to do is just point this up into the ceiling and see how far we get brilliant okay so it's looking like it's looking like we're gonna be able to fish straight through here without damaging which would be amazing that is hitting something there but i'm quite sure what so what i'll do is i'll just try fishing directly that way first so it seems like that way we are hitting something no maybe not okay we're hitting something about a meter that way the meter's not quite enough but it's not far off let's try going this way and that way we've got yeah going all the way to the wall there fantastic we're gonna have to just measure out the holes hope that they don't align with any kind of joists or anything that might be in the way cut the holes and then hopefully we can just fish in between and then for going that way i'm going to need to get a cable that way for the pendant so let me check that as well while i'm at it okay so we're about a meter in i've hit something that's not gonna be quite enough and that'll take us to there we just need to go a little bit further than that um but i reckon if i go a different angle i'll probably get through it i think they are those i can't remember what you call them but they're like structural steel joists basically with holes in like like they're not even holes like big gaps yeah there's definitely something about a meter across there so i might have to cut a hole to just fish over that so i'm going to measure up and mark on the ceiling where i want the lights to go and then whether we can actually get them there or not it's going to be dependent on a few things but at least we can try this pica pencil is a bit annoying let me know if you use pica pencils and you've had this basically i i used one of the colored leads in it which is basically like wax crayon and it was a really hot day and it kind of melted and then now it's sort of sticky inside so i can't get the lead through properly it's a little bit annoying so i think i'm gonna have to get myself a new one but they're not cheap they're about like 20 quid for a set but it's nice to have a pencil rather than using sharpies i used to use sharpies but then you can't really erase sharpies so 80 by 80 that's gonna take us about so for this one because we've not got a reference point this way i'm going to measure that one from the wall there and then measure this one out the same distance and for that you need a proper tape maker so that's 235 and a half from the wall five and a half so we do the same for this one now it's a question of checking it with the customer to see if he's happy with these positions and then do i just go for it and drill it and hope that we don't hit anything or do i try and figure out if there's something behind it it's difficult in a ceiling like this i've got one of those stud buddy things which has it's like a really powerful magnet and you can move it around on the ceiling and it finds the screws so technically if you find a screw then you know that there's wood behind so i'll probably try that in fact i'll try that now just to see if there is roughly anything around there and then um if not i'll call the customer down get him to check the locations and if it's okay i'll drill the holes so this is the stud buddy and i'll leave a link in the description where you can get yourself one of these basically i thought it was kind of black magic at first when somebody showed me about this because i was like how the heck can that find wood and metal you know how can it find wood well it doesn't actually find the wood it finds the screws in the wood but by finding those screws you know kind of where the studs are and it's basically just got a really powerful magnet in here and that you just sort of go like that across the ceiling until it finds it grips on something and then that's a screw and then if you find another screw then you know that those are in line with each other then you know that that's the direction of the joist and that's kind of roughly the center of the joists so i'm going to give this a go here i haven't used it very often to be honest but this is the kind of thing that would be a lifesaver in certain situations um so i'm going to give it a go here and see how we get on all right we've got a screw here so you see that it just sticks to the ceiling so we have got a screw here or something metal at least yeah bang on where that hole is that's typical so okay we've got another one here so it looks like this is actually a joist going there in that direct line yeah there's another one here look so we can see straight away we've got joyce going there so good job i used this oh that's brilliant actually really good little tool so yeah there's more screws here yeah so we've got a definite line here now what i can do then is just shift this slightly so that we go just to the side of the joist so we can either shift it that way or this way depending on what the customer wants i'm thinking probably this way is going to be better uh maybe 20 centimeters so we'll check the other ones first and see but there's definitely a choice there let's see if we've got anything else here okay we've got another one here so that's like if i measure that it's probably like 50 centers 60 okay 60 centers is the joists probably anyway yeah we've got another screw here look another one here yeah that's great actually great little tool right so i've remarked these holes so i've moved them 20 centimeters this way the customer was happy with that so hopefully now i can just drill and they'll be okay i just want to double check the size of these holes actually before i drill them because i've got a 70 mil hole cutter which i think is the right size for these jcc downlights but always good to double check before you drill the hole double check the instructions i think it's probably supposed to be like a 63 or something but oh no that's perfect 70 mil so let's do this hey we didn't hit anything so that's good there is a big thick cable there and a 10mm bonding cable it looks like a cooker cable but anyway we didn't cut it that's a little tip for you if you're drilling through these don't push your drill all the way through as soon as you get through the plasterboard pull your drill back out because you never quite know what's going to be above there so one down well that's fantastic so we've got the whole drill there's nothing in the way so that stud buddy really did come to the rescue that was a fantastic tool i'm going to use that more often so now see if we can fish the cables what i'm going to do as well is obviously this is going to be sealed up so i can't put the receiver there because it's not going to be accessible for maintenance so i'm going to have to put the receivers at the down light position so that at least they can get to them in the future if they need to reprogram them add any extra switches in or just if there's any issues they're accessible for maintenance so i'm going to have to just basically put that cable in a maintenance free junction box extend it over to one of the down lights and then from that down light i'll put the two receivers in one place from one receiver i'll go back to here and then across to the pendant light and then from the other receiver i'll go to the first down light second down light third down light fourth down so that's how it's going to work but first things first i just need to try and get some cables in between these down lights [Music] right well i'm struggling a bit here to be honest um i wanted to get from that light position well basically to fish the cables through to here where the pendant is going to go but i keep hitting there's a beam here so i've drilled it but it's been boarded underneath the steel beam um so i'm not quite sure how to get over it really i've tried sort of fishing at an angle like fish that way and then try to fish sort of this way as well and then join up in the middle but it's really tricky so i'm gonna stop for some lunch sometimes just a little bit of a pause and then think about it and you can come up with a solution so that's what i'm gonna do so unfortunately i've not got my little attachment with the beads the metal beads i usually use because it broke and i need to order a new one so i'm going to use this instead for here this is the super rod uh cable tongue i've not used it very often but i think in this situation it's going to be perfect for getting yeah there we go fantastic exactly where i need to be brilliant so i'm going to put a little bit of um oval conduit over that just to protect the cable for when they're filling it in so i'll slide the overall conduit i'll cut it to the right length slide it over the cable and then slide the cable through on the cable tub so the cable tongue has got a hole in it like that so what i can do is strip this cable back a little bit i pull it through like so thread the oval conduit on the cable first and then i'll just thread that through like that bend it over and then you should just pull through basically there you go under bar that will protect the cable so they can then fill it in again afterwards and i'll all be fine and then this is our position for our pendant so i can just refix the old pendant up and here is a joist so i can screw it straight into the joist so it should get a nice solid fixing because they said they want to fit a lampshade quite a heavy lampshade on it [Music] right so i managed to get a cable between those two downlights so all i've got to do now is get from here to that one over there i can't get through with the rods it keeps hitting something but i just stuck my hand up into this hole and that same cooker cable that i said to you earlier about and the 10 mil earth are also just above this hole so i think that actually there is a route through and it's probably just going through these steel joists but see if i wriggle that i can i can see that other cable moving so the super rod set has this and i've never used this before but i'm going to try this today i'm going to try and hook that over the 10mm earth right and then attach my rod on and use this to slide the rod all the way along and through to where the temple earth is just above that second hole there right and then in theory that should get me through let's see if it works i never thought of using it like this before but i think this is actually the purpose of of this particular tool let me know in the comments open the key ring enough to get it around the 10mm earth which is quite thick okay we are on so let me show you that now right so this is over the 10 millimeter so in theory if i push this along it's going to follow the same path as that 10 mil earth and maybe we'll make it to the other side i did it it worked that was brilliant awesome tool never never would have imagined that you could do that but that is genius so i'm gonna go to the other end now and just see if it's up above there but lengthwise it should be cause i'm two rods two rods depth in now so let me see i can see it from here already can you see that slide that back a little bit i've actually gone too far there we go look at that there we go now question is can i undo it and there we have it one rod coming in here and out there so now i will attach my cable pulling sleeve which is somewhere around here here we go this is a genius bit of kit as well you've probably seen me use this before it's like one of those chinese finger trap things and it basically just gives constant force gripping onto the cable so the harder you pull it the harder it grips onto the cable and it's absolutely brilliant for these kind of situations and what i'm going to do with this is just take it into the finger trap as well because as long as you're pulling then it's super strong but if you push back for some reason like for example if it gets stuck on one of the joists and i have to push it back a little bit to free it up then sometimes it can come loose so i just use a bit of tape and just tape it on here free up a bit of loose cable there we go and then this is the easy part [Music] there we go all that struggling and that's the easy part so that's a great result i'm really pleased with that so now basically all the cabling is in uh and the only making good that's needed is that hole there and this hole here so it's not bad at all really this these two cables would just be connected together in a maintenance free junction box so i'll do that now then over here we've got our two receivers to go in so we'll have the feed in we'll loop that between the two receivers and then the outgoing cables we've got this one for the down lights and this one for the pendant and then it literally loops from here to there to there to there to do the down lights so i'm gonna start getting everything connected up now all right so now it's time to connect these kinetic um receivers so i've got two they're identical so what i've done is i have just written on the back which light is which then when it comes to programming them i won't get confused so i'll choose the downlighters first and this is the feed in so i've got to strip this back and then it's literally just live neutral in live neutral out the only tricky part with these is that there's no terminal for the cpcs so you've got to leave the cpcs a little bit longer and then basically put them in a wago so i just usually bend the cpc back like that then the actual length of the conductors within here is not very long so in order to get the cord grip working properly you've got to cut them back pretty short so i will cut them back to that was probably about an inch from the sheath to the end of the wire and then just strip that back and then with this one i'm going to need a loop of cable to go from this receiver to the next one to give give the permanent live and neutral to the next one as well it's a bit fiddly when you've got three cables but i mean i could do a maintenance free junction box and and go out of that into this but certainly the terminals are big enough so it's easier to just do them all straight in and out rather than doing another junction box there we go so we've got three cables there's plenty of room there that will cord grip on nicely and then i just need to connect these together with a little wago three-way should fit [Music] so these kinetic receivers are super easy to program this is the switch obviously we've got these two receivers so this one's for the down lights so i want the left hand switch to do the downlight so what i do is just press and hold the button on the front here until it starts flashing so it'll start flashing a little red led there we go and then i press that and it programs it and now when i press it it turns it on and off simple as that and i'll do the same with this one which is for the pendant press and hold red light starts flashing press that and it's programmed now that turns the pendant light on and off easy as that and then when you want to reset them to reprogram them or add an extra switch you just press and hold that and it deletes the program so it's dead easy right so i've reconfigured this slightly because i've forgotten to connect the actual down light so i've got these two now everything going through this junction box so i've just got to push all this up neatly into the ceiling i need to put a cable tie on there to make that maintenance free [Music] so that's it we have light and uh pretty happy with the result i'm glad i managed to get things in without too much damage to the ceiling so that was really satisfying and it's much brighter in this room now recessed led downlights are definitely the way forward so i hope you've enjoyed this video and found it interesting if you have don't forget to hit the thumbs up button and if you haven't done so already subscribe to the channel because i do post videos here very regularly all about the life of an electrician and if you hit the notification bell then you won't miss out on your videos thank you so much for watching and have a great day [Music] you

Channel: Artisan Electrics

Views: 214,230

Rating: 4.8809671 out of 5

Keywords: stud buddy, super rod, super rod mega set, cable fishing, cable rods, installing downlights, finding studs, stud finder

Id: gUoTO0wS68I

Length: 34min 13sec (2053 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 17 2020