Long Overdue REFRESH on my S13 Project Car

today we are finally making some more progress on  the s13 if you guys remember about a year ago when   my car was in a million pieces I gave my front  300ZX calipers and rotors to my girlfriend she   needed brakes at the time and I was like well we  might as well upgrade and these are ready to go   and I had more Z calipers so I wasn't worried  I knew I was going to swap mine eventually so   here's the calipers ready to go but right before  the very first strips event back after repairing   the car the rotors that we had were the incorrect  size so I was not able to throw the rotors on and   the calipers so I just had stock breaks for now  but now that we have all the parts here we can do   that and another thing not only the front brake  seat service but the rears as well I think the   rotors in the back are warped because whenever  you're above 40 miles per hour and you tap the   brake you feel the whole car not Shake but you  feel a lot of vibration in the brake pedal and   sometimes it'll make noise so we have the rotors  for the rear as well and then we also have some   calipers to choose from in case one of those  calipers is sticking when we drove this car   to the West Coast and drifted multiple drift  events on the mountain downhill when we were   braking the rotor started to warp and that's  really not normal to do I do have two Cal on   the rear for each side one pair is for the hydro  and the other pairs for the base brakes so before   we jack this thing up and start taking parts off  I want to take you guys on a test drive so you   can hear the sound I don't think the brakes are  necessarily going to feel any stronger than the   base brakes these are plenty fine for this small  car but it's more so it dissipates heat better   with a better rotor diameter and more pistons  in the caliper so it's going a little test drive I don't know if you can hear that on camera or  not but it's like not good another thing this is   because I have a hydro you can see the  rotor wattage in the hydro see the vibration also hearing some caliber noise [Applause] I just heard a clunk and  we came to a complete stop   it's falling apart we'll have to do a full  nut and bold check while we're under there [Music] now usually it's not a good idea to  jack a 240 from the stock core support the   lower core support but in this case when we  redid the entire front end and the entire car   actually I reinforced it so it is a jack point  now and it's a lot easier to lift off the ground let's give the car a quick shake  down before we take the wheels off right off the bat I hear something hmm so I definitely feel play from  side to side but not up and down   and I'm looking in here and when I do  feel the play I do not see any play   actually happening in the inner and auto tie  rod which is usually what would be the issue   if you are getting side to side play but  it's actually coming from the ball joint   the ball joint I usually just replace with the  control arm in case of an incident in a drift   crash or something always good to have those on  hand I will say this side feels nice and tight   when we take the wheel off we'll still take a  closer look at everything just to be sure foreign usually I'd put these lug nuts back onto the hubs  but since we're taking the rotor off there's no   point to really doing that man these looks so  tiny compared to the Z brakes first thing we'll   do is just take off the stock brakes and  then we'll take a look at this ball joint we'll just let this hang off to the side for  a little bit you don't want to hang it to the   ground because you don't want to damage the  brake line not that we're using these brake   lines again but it's just a good habit to  get into save our hardware and just in case   we're going to need it I usually like to put  hardware near the jack stand personal preference   and it's that fast to take off stock breaks  I guess this is also a good view for the drop   knuckle what a drop knuckle really does is  ADD space in between a lower ball joint Mount   and where the center of the wheel bearing is  that helps correct the steering geometry as   you can see the control arms are still level in a  stock-ish form but when you slam a car without a   drop knuckle the control arms are sunk up so your  steering geometry is not correct and the car is   not happy about the ball joint even by hand I can  move it so to take off this arm we have to remove   the tension arm bolts obviously the lower ball  joint itself and then the bolt to the subframe   before I take off crucial parts to a car I always  like to make sure that my new part is actually   correct so I actually do have quite a few options  here I've always had the question of is the Z S14   and s13 control arm the same so I have all three  here to my knowledge the S14 lower control arm is   longer than s13 z32 I have no idea so we'll take  some measurements and figure that out and also you   cannot buy S14 control arms new they don't remake  them they're not readily available like the s13   or the z32 you can just go buy these for like 40  bucks or so on RockAuto or something but these   are only available new if you by Nismo there's  no other way to get an S14 lower control arm and   I found these control arms with the knuckles  and the coilovers in a junkyard this winter   actually just a couple months ago let's compare  the s13 to the z32 we'll take both right sides   I'm not lining up the back of the control arm for  this measurement I'm lining up the mount to the   subframe because that's what's going to determine  the overall length all right those are straight   I honestly think they're the same length  looks like the tension rod bolts are in   the same location sway bar mount slightly off  but you could still make it work no problem   NASA team does have a reinforcement on it  and the bump stops are a little different   but you can always just grind these off also  the Z has a mount welded in here not even   sure what that's for overall I would say that  the z32 control arm would work directly on an   s13 now let's bring the S14 control arm into  the equation and grab the right side as well so lined up with the mounting hole sway bar mounts  the same tension arm bolts are the same our bump   stops are different but the S14 Bump Stop looks  like the z32 bump stop that's pretty interesting   but the S14 is slightly longer honestly only  by about 10 millimeters there's also a myth   that the S14 ball joint will not work with an  s13 control arm so we're going to test that   theory out as well while we're doing all this  I'm going to put the s13s on to my cart though   that's for sure now these are S14 Knuckles when  I take off the old control arm I'll attach this   ball joint to that knuckle just in case if it is  different I don't want to damage my brand new ball   joints you know what I mean so in the meantime  let's get this lower control arm off the car   oh there we go already off but I wanted to show  you guys how loose this ball joint is you should   not move that freely and up and down since these  are Moog control arms they come with greasable   zerk fittings which you have to thread into here  first then you can pump grease into there and   pumping grease into these ball joints prevents  them from failing well prematurely failing I   guess so I guess we'll grab an eight mil real  quick of course it's the socket that's missing wait a second it's already on I'm doing my  nut and bolt check right now and not that this   tension bracket bolt was loose but I was able to  get like half a turn out of it the rest of these   were super tight so I don't think that was really  making a noise but again good to check especially   after drifting it rebuilding it everything over  here is nice and tightened up now this would be   a good time to review what the wheel is rubbing  inside the wheel well on low drift cars there's   always going to be something that rubs and in  our case we are rubbing right on the top here   which is totally normal and also on the rear  I'm surprised however that we are not rubbing   on this scene usually this seam gets hammered  in but I did increase my Caster so the Caster   angle is much more harsh which basically just  means that this arm is shorter than it would   be from the factory pulling the wheel forward  more and out of the way of the seam now I did   that because I like a lot of self steer while  drifting looks like nothing has rubbed on this   side which obviously that's a good thing we welded  tubs into this car to prevent that from happening   in the first place and it's doing its job looking  into the future maybe I'll try to make rear Tubs   on the shock Tower not a lot of people do those  I don't think I've ever seen someone do that but   look at how high up it is here versus how low it  is here and it's also rubbing here too actually   so yeah something to think about for sure but  now we can finally slap some brakes on this thing oh that's the rears here we go these rotors  are drilled for four and five lug that's pretty   interesting [Music] hopefully these fit these  calipers now you know left from right for the   calipers based on where the bleeder screw is the  bleeder screw has to go on top that's how you get   the air out the caliper mounts in the front of  the knuckle so this would be the front left now   last time we were trying to do the Z breaks this  is where we got snagged up because the rotor did   not fit inside the caliper now if you're going to  order brakes for your Z or you have Z breaks you   need to order brakes or whatever this is how you  confirm what rotors you need to buy so this is   the thickness of the rotor there's two different  size calibers this is why this is important this   measures about 26 millimeters now you go into  the caliper itself and that measures about 30   millimeters and these calipers are the smaller of  the two sizes these are considered 26 millimeter   rotors but our distance here was 30 millimeters  with Z calipers I like to just Mount these right   away because then you can just slide the brake  pads in the side of it the caliper is just one   piece it's not too like a traditional  caliper where it has a bracket separate   now usually when they ship rotors they grease  them up so they don't rust in transit but these   are zinc coated so there's no grease on them the  zinc will prevent it from rusting now that the   caliper is tight we confirm that the rotor spins  that's how you know that you have the right size   rotor you can see the clearance is very small in  there but it is enough let's put on the conversion   line you can use the stock 300ZX brake lines but  they're like two pieces and ones like a metal   piece that comes off and a rubber hose so that's  why people just use conversion lines because it's   just one nice little line it's not just a whole  bunch of stuff floating around in your wheel well   last thing you want is your wheel to catch it  so I'm actually going to attach the new line to   the caliper first and then to this point because  that will prevent more fluid from dripping out I   like the green pretty snazzy before you tighten  the brake line down all the way make sure you   route it where you want it to go because then you  can still move it you tighten it first and you're   going to just bind it the new line is on I don't  have my Clips here to hold in the brake line so   I just zip that in place it does get the job done  but I'm gonna have to add that to the to-do list   to find one of those or I guess probably two of  them I bet I'm missing the other side as well   here's a quick comparison of what the brakes  look like side by side 300ZX over here the s13   caliber Works directly with an S14 rotor and the  z32 brakes bolt directly onto the S chassis the   only thing you have to modify I think is the  bag dust shield which mine are long gone so   other than that works perfectly fine now let's see  if this s13 control arm bolts to the S14 knuckle okay so far so good looks like they are different unless  the threads are just not working with it yeah no ball joint is definitely different now we just gotta put the brake pads  in and sometimes I like to screw on   a lug nut just to make sure that the rotor sits   in there flat sometimes it makes it  a little easier to put the pads on when you spin it it's nice and straight so the  cool thing about these pads is you don't even   need to grease them up no I'm just kidding you  gotta put grease on it and before I grease these   I always like to dry test them so the friction  material obviously goes towards the Rover   and just slides right in it's that easy  but then you have to match up the pins   which I have right here and those slide  through the caliper on the front all the   way through each brake pad and then  towards the rear where you put a pin I also greased up the pins because this is  what the brake pads are going to be sliding on   that to the first brake pad  oh gotta push this one in more   there you go now see there's a little hole  on the back of it I have these little clips   this is a very easy brake swap you can  do to increase stopping power and also   make the car look a little bit cooler not  bad oh also these are four Pistons versus   the stock which is one single piston and we got  to do all that all over again to the other side oh look at that it's already done this is that  all right so now we have to start on the rears   I didn't even take off the wheels yet back there  foreign so in order to get the rotor off of this   side we actually have to take off the traction arm  and the upper control arm which is the camper arm   and that is because this has a GK Tech adapter  plate which allows you to run two calipers on   the rear versus just the one so it takes a little  bit longer than a normal brake job would but we'll   get it done also the hydro calipers work perfectly  fine so we don't need to mess around with those   based on the way my lines are run the bottoms  are hydro and these are base brakes so these   are the ones that we're going to be working with  here's a closer look at why we need to take off   all those control arms this is the caliper bolt  that we need to get to and as you can see this   arm is in the way so we have to take that off and  this is why we have to take off the upper control   arm because the bolt doesn't even clear coming up  we got our arms out of the way this is where our   ratcheting wrench comes in clutch because you  can't even fit a socket and Ratchet in there   now I'm in the process of loosening the wheel  bearing bolts so we can get enough play to get   access to that last bolt because I can't even fit  a wrench in there and we'll take off the axle nut so I just loosened everything up I didn't take  everything off completely as you can see the axle   is still in so now we can actually fit our wrench  where we need to look at that clearance crazy and even then you can't even take the bolt all  the way out the things we do for these cars   that's just one caliber now we have to  take off the toe arm so we can fold the   whole knuckle down enough that way we have  access to get to this bottom caliper bolt foreign yeah if I were to do this dual caliper  again on another s chassis I would definitely   just get the whole knuckle instead of this  adapter plate it also spaces the wheels out   about what do you say seven ish millimeters just  keep that in mind if you're building your project   and looking into Parts since I suspect one of  the base brake calipers to be locking up I'm   gonna push in these Pistons all the way and see  if they actually move or not I'm sure there's a   tool for this but this is what I have to work  with so we're going to squeeze this piston in   see how it's moving nice and free all right so  that Piston's good now I don't want to squeeze   this side and ruin the face so I'm going to put a  towel there this side also goes in nice and free okay so this caliper I would say is good not   the issue we're just going to  replace the rotor on this side also another good indication  that this caliper wasn't the   one sticking is because both brake pads are  worn evenly one's not bigger than the other now I do have new brake pads to put on this side  but until I know for sure that I need to replace   them I'm not going to because those pads had  plenty of life left in them now for the sake   of not being too repetitive I've already begun  this side and found that the brake pads are very   low much lower than they were on the other side  and also slightly uneven if it looks like the   inside pad has less material than the outer pad  so we're going to try and squeeze these in once   again and see how easily they move and that will  determine whether or not we replace this caliper   so it looks like regardless we're gonna have to do  brake pads as well on both sides but they're just   like the front brakes where it's so easy you just  slide the pads in so yeah let's see how it does okay that went in really easy almost easier  than the other side but this outer one like   cannot move at all it will not budge oh my gosh  it literally made no difference so that tells me   this caliper is seized we need to replace this  one caliper and I will also have to trim down   just a little piece on the side that's just  part of the kit to run the two calibers you   have to make clearance so they can butt up  next to each other nothing too crazy though   you can barely tell if there's any material  missing okay that's pretty crusty looking still crusty but less crusty let's try this  one the first thing I'll do is verify that   these Pistons actually move and then we'll have  to verify that the brake line threads are okay   because that's another known issue with these  aluminum calipers they're nice and light but with   all the steel fittings they tend to strip out you  got to be honest this one feels tight cannot move   it this copper might also be seized and brought  out the other caliper hopefully this one's okay   oh this Piston's good see how we're oozing some  fluid so far so good oh man both Pistons were   able to slide in Freely I took off the stock brake  line the threads are okay in there and I also took   off the bleeder screw and made sure those threads  were okay and also verify there's no rust buildup   internally so this caliper is good and before we  forget this is where we need to grind the caliper   you can see there's just an indent from the  casting this is nothing too crucial or important it's all ready to go cleaned up the pins  as well and installed the new brake pads   now we just got to put this side all the  way back together with the new caliper   I will also mention that the rear brakes on the  z32 the calipers and rotors are the same for all   gears and models and turbo or non-turbo the front  calipers is where that differs that's why there's   two different sizes and three different caliper  types but the rears all the same oh and those   rear z32 calipers had those clips that I needed  so I cleaned this up a lot it doesn't look so   Jank with the zip ties in there so got those  mounted correctly on both sides and the rear   already had them so yeah we're ready to rock Tim  stopped by and Toronto's G out of hibernation in   the summer I washed it for the first time since  I've owned it it's here I'm gonna replace the   headlight bulb so I don't get pulled over on the  way to this meeting oh is one missing out but it's   filled with condensation so I need like a new  like assembly and the bulb is an HID Xenon and   it cost me a hundred dollars for One Stop damn  well it's good to see this thing out again yes go ahead and give her a few pumps foreign can't forget the wood blocks don't forget to put the car in here [Applause] welcome aboard oh my goodness let's get it [Music] rub it up dub yep [Music] so far so good the brakes actually work sailing   we'll get it up to speed to re-verify do it  before when I would hold a hydro you could   see the warpage of the rotor in the hydro  like the hydro was bouncing I can imagine [Music] man these brakes are really  good actually absolutely great the car sounds great dude this is so nice only one day on jack stands how many 240 owners  can say that these brakes look super good   absolutely love them especially the fronts  don't get me started still need to break them   in honestly there really wasn't enough Street  time to really get him up to temperature but   they worked great so couldn't be happier no food  leaking everything looks good I'm sorry if there   were any lines across the video these lights do  not correspond well with my camera and there's no   setting to adjust it unfortunately don't forget  to drop a like in the video and if you have a   second make sure you didn't get unsubscribed  I don't know why YouTube randomly does that   to people but I'll see you guys next time I  think the next thing I'm going to do is start   working on the Z suspension because I haven't even  looked into it yet I'm sure it's all super crusty   [Music]

Channel: PrizzaMike

Views: 70,918

Keywords: drift, 240sx, car mod, nissan, 180sx, nissan 180sx, drifting, drifter, s13, s14, s15, how to drift, 240sx drifting, right hand drive, restoration, project car, ka24, rb25det, road trip, junkyard, junkyard finds, junkyard score, restoration car, car fix, abandoned car, junk yard, welding, welding car, fabrication, car diy, diy car repair, diy car restoration, car building, car mechanic, fixing cars, custom car, clean car build, jdm, T-bone 240sx, projectcar, driftcar, positive, dream car

Id: nvowdcQVGDo

Length: 23min 6sec (1386 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 12 2023