Learn Wainscoting - Proper Reveals, Corners, Windows, and Doors

what's up guys welcome back to the channel so we're just gonna get right into this not gonna waste any time cuz I got a lot to cover if you're here watching this video and you somehow missed the previous one I'm gonna put these in a playlist where you can watch them in sequence so all of this makes sense real quick before we get started determining these panel layouts I want to give you a tour of the room because it is important to the process so we've got this wall right here and that's the one we've been working on obviously then it comes around this long wall right here then it wraps this bullnose corner right here then we've got this door right here that's gonna get the same casing as our door over there with that back band casing so then we'll keep going this way got an even larger wall it's gonna look really nice right there across that big span and then you've got this small section right here the window under the window and then against the door now for those of you who claim you have OCD and just want me to finish that because it's been off for like the past two videos I can't do that yet because I've got to tie it in to the wainscot right here and that's and the reason I say you claim you have OCD is because a lot of people say that and they they don't really know what OCD it's a very serious thing I know what you mean though you just like to have balance but looking to reload ooh you definitely probably don't have it it's very serious all right the first thing I always do when I'm determining these panel dimensions is I grab whatever material I'm using as my vertical styles in this case a 1 by 4 and I push it up against the endpoints now since I build my wainscot in units and I installed it in units I just refer to where it terminates as an endpoint so anywhere there's a door casing that's an endpoint it has to terminate there so with that I push it up against it and then I just draw the line which I already did that in the previous video now that this line is established that's not gonna change that's a definite for sure thing everything in the field here from endpoint to endpoint is variable so we've established that endpoint right there now we're gonna establish this endpoint right here and this will be our first unit right here alright so if I push this 1 by 4 into this corner here you can see it's right on my pencil line that I made and when I put put it here in this corner you can see it's right on that pencil line that I made so we could see that clearly when you have a full 1 by 4 on one unit of the wainscot you've got to rip it down on the opposing unit to 2 and 3/4 of an inch in my case because I'm using these one by force so now what's revealed here from here to here is 2 in 3/4 and what's revealed from here to here is 2 and 3/4 you don't want to do this so I've got another piece of scrap of 1 by 4 and I have made this mistake where you just build the unit like that so now we've got a two and three-quarter inch reveal from here to here and then a three and a half inch reveal from here to here because we want the same reveal so if you were standing right there where you're viewing from the camera and you look at this they're gonna be showing the same material on each side so hopefully that makes sense but that's very important because you want this to look the exact same so you have a two and three-quarter inch reveal on each side when you're looking at this in the corner head on now when you're doing it this way and you're only showing that reveal up two and three quarters you might think that it's gonna look wrong if you're only revealing two and three quarters here but everything else is three and a half that's not gonna look right but I'm gonna tell you it looks perfect it looks absolutely right I've tried other ways I've tried to make it where you split the one by four in the middle here where you have like an inch and three quarters and then an inch and three quarters revealing it just looks too narrow for the corner it just doesn't look right again personal preference you can do it that way if you want again you draw some lines or you cut some samples and look at it but personally I would steer away from that just looks too dinky really in a corner core needs to look a little bit bigger but on the flip side of that let's say you want the exact three and a half inch reveal in the corner as well which means you would take a 1 by 6 and rip it down to where even one this this one hides it it's still showing three and a half but that looks too big this is the sweet spot right here I'm telling you probably done 80 to 100 Wainscott installs and I've experimented with a lot and this is what I go with but again personal preference try it out now another thing I want to address is another good question that came up was what if one of these walls I'm just assuming these walls are plumb is that okay I actually find that it is okay for the most part but here's my personal experience you take it for what it's worth I don't really ever even throw a level on these because even if they are just slightly you know out of plumb you can always just shim it and shim the back and just meet them up somewhere in the middle and your eye will never see that little bit of shimmer what I've found is that in a span of 40 inches you're not gonna have a huge slant check out that beautiful sky right there it's getting dark outside though and unfortunately I recorded a lot of footage earlier explaining the stuff I'm explaining to you in it just didn't work out with the audio and video so we're gonna get back here in here and try it again thankfully this camera is good at a low light so let's pick up where we left off that's YouTube for you sometimes you just you win some and you lose them so now our next step in figuring out these reveals brings us to this bullnose corner now this bullnose corner right here becomes the endpoint for this big wainscot unit on this wall it's the only outside corner in the room and I'm glad it's here because it brings up another one of my theories now keep in mind I call it a theory because it's totally up to the Installer my theory on this an outside corner is I'm going to go with a full one by four here and the full one by four here because in my theory when I'm standing and looking this way I don't see this wall or when I'm standing in looking this way I don't see this wall so it's safe to go with the full one by four right here take it for what it's worth again I'll keep saying that over and over but do what you want so what I need to do here is establish my lines on this bullnose corner and I'm gonna be wrapping this in that bullnose fashion I will not just be putting two 45s and making this you know a sharp 90 I'm gonna have it that bullnose 90 so if you have bull-nosed corners get one of these it's not even a question just get one they're so cheap and they're worth it I'll put a link in the description below where you can check it out now what this does it's a bull nose trim gauge it's just gonna wrap this bull nose corner and watch how easy this is gonna make my life so we'll go about right here about 40 inches and just pull down hold your pencil in there you can see how quick I marked that that's that line right there is key to where I'm gonna put my 1 by 4 board right here and establish my end point so I'm gonna do it on this side as well cuz I need one over here to done in a matter of seconds so now what I can do I can take my 1 by 4 and hold it up right there hold it straight on that line plumb right there and then mark the other side but I can't do that yet because what I need to do miter that vertical style because I'm gonna have 22.5 all the way around this 90 degree turn so if you do the math it's simple 22 point five times four cuts is gonna give me that 90-degree turn that I'm looking for go up the table saw here set up to 22 and a half degrees and all I have to do is make sure that when the blade rips this board that I still get the full 1 by 4 width so I'm going to rip it right to this outer edge here because I need that full three-and-a-half inch width to show up on my wainscot panel might take me one or two chances to creep up on it but no big deal better to creep up on it than to cut it too short so if we look at this board right here that I just ripped on the table saw at that 22 and 1/2 degree miter there's a few things I want to point out about it so the face of it that's gonna be exposed facing outwards the finish side right here which is this side it should still be three and a half inches if I ripped it properly and it's right at three and a half inches so we're good there the next thing I want to point out to you about this board is that the left side that has the miter on it you can see has this long point right here in this short point right here this long point is called the toe of the miter this short point is called the heel of the miter this part of the miter the heel we need to put that and line it up exactly with the pencil line we just made with our bull nose trim gage once we do that we can run our pencil along this non mitered side this flat stock side and that will give us our perfect dimensions for that wainscot unit so remember that short point of the miter is the heel and we're gonna put this right on the pencil line we're gonna put our heel right on the pencil line you know line that up just like that I want to get it perfect okay that looks pretty good to me then I want to hold it firm well just come on the other side and Mark it with my pencil and that sets the parameters now for this small unit now if I was to just do it with a 1 by 4 there wasn't ripped let me show you how off that would be because I've made this mistake before you're going quick and you're trying to get things done and you don't want to do this so I'll mark this one too so that is the space right there of that miter so let's see how much that is is a 3/8 of an inch so make sure when you're laying this out for these reveals that you go ahead and mitre even the sample for making your marks so I'm gonna do it on this side too so this is what we end up with right here shows us all of our reveals and gives us dimensions that we can work with now when we go to determine panel width so that's how you would do an outside bullnose corner if this were a 90-degree corner without the bull nose you could just miter two samples together and Mark it in that fashion all right so real quick I want to talk to you guys about this door right here this is unique if you remember I did a video when I set this door and I talked about how you needed to be perfectly spaced here and here it needed to be split perfectly even now that comes in very important right now at this point because I'll show you some when I put this casing here see if I can get this alright when I put that like that you can see there's a space back there where I'm definitely not going to be able to fit any type of wainscoting panel obviously or anything really so what we'll go back there is simply just a 1 by rip down to fill in that area it will get a cap and it will get a baseboard at the bottom same thing on this side there won't be any space here to put anything of significance so it'll just be a rip down piece of 1 by material and it'll go right there now this door casing will be in before we move on and start building these units but I just wanted to point that out anytime you have wainscot where it's gonna turn into a small area like that all you can do is really fill it in with one bite material so next we'll go over and talk about the window so you can see my window here is not case yet either and that'll probably be one of the next upcoming videos where we case this and get it ready for the wainscot application but I could still figure out my reveals and check everything even before I case this window and I'm gonna show you how I do that right now so the way I can mark this window without even having it cased out yet and check the reveals and everything is just using this little marking tool that I made it's really easy it's just my window casing nailed into a simulated jamb extension so my window casing and door casing is this here it's a 1 by 3 1 by 2 and cove molding this is all just a scrap 1 by 3 now my window jamb is gonna be wider than that I think it's like 4 and 1/2 inches but just for the sake of the tool I mean this doesn't have to be exactly what it really needs to be so this will hug around the window jamb and then I can mark here and that will tell me exactly where I need to begin my next style all I gotta do is hold it so that it's flush with the inside jam here and then I can just simply take a pencil and Mark the side of it now I only have to mark it from about 40 inches down I don't need a mark around the whole thing because all this is doing is it's just establishing where my next vertical style is going to begin so I could just mark it like this just mark it like that or if I wanted to I could take it a step further and just tack it in and then at that point I could hold my vertical style up against it like this make sure it's nice and flush and then I could mark right there and that now sets the parameter for everything this side of the window so the left side of the window this process the exact same thing will be followed on the right side of the window so here's an up-close look at that like I mentioned the jamb simulator is much shorter than it needs to be because again it's just a simulator but the casing is true the reveal is true I'm gonna have that actual reveal when I case this window out so everything here gets me the dimensions that I need to get this Wainscott unit laid out for this side of the window I'll probably do a whole separate video on because it's going to be a challenge and that's gonna be this back band casing meeting up with my cap but what I'm thinking is I'll bring my 1 by 2 cap and just not around the back band right here and then just cut that back band short so I can have my vertical style just go straight into the casing and then I can in the cove cove molding here and it can just continue to go up so there won't be any Cove molding from about here down so that's what I'm thinking if you have any ideas let me know what you think but that's pretty much it as far as setting reveals and getting everything ready it's very important that everything in this video is taken into consideration if you're gonna do this yourself because you can waste a lot of time especially after you build a unit and you find out man it's wrong I should have should have done this I should have done that oh yeah and one other thing I got a lot of materials here I got materials that I'm staging right here and look at that I got the handrails in and the square baluster as we went with the square balusters and we're just about to take all this Christmas stuff down because the season is over but I like the way this looks let me know what you think about it all right so that's gonna do it for this video thank you so much for watching and please leave your questions and comments below we're gonna be building the unit's casing that window casing the door in the next few videos if you have any questions regarding that let me know because most of the content of this video right now that you're watching was from questions from the previous video and I think we're just going to keep it rolling so thanks for watching and I'll see you all on the next one take care [Music]

Channel: Finish Carpentry TV

Views: 188,897

Keywords:

Id: XHbp4wcByBY

Length: 18min 16sec (1096 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 28 2019