Landscapes in ON1 Photo RAW - Recorded Webinar

you all right everybody so let's get started here first of all welcome thank you so much for joining the webinar today my name is Dylan and I'm the software and video educator here at ah one I'm actually joined by mo-mo do you want to say it a word or two so we can know your audio is working yeah I'll be here answering questions throughout the webinar so if you guys have anything you want Dylan to show again or any questions that pop up feel free to use that Q&A module throughout the entire time awesome thanks mo yeah like MOA saying if you do have any questions feel free to hit up the Q&A module and he'll get to as many as he can um if it's pertinent to what I'm doing you know he can stop me and we can kind of go over it live the webinar is also being recorded so if you do need to miss out on anything or you need to leave halfway through no worries we'll have it up on our blog and our YouTube and our Facebook so you can always just catch up later a little bit about the webinar we're gonna be going over landscapes today instead of almond photo raw to begin with we're gonna start out kind of going over how to organize a little bit better I'm not gonna spend too much time inside of browse showing you how to organize I'm kind of just gonna give you guys a few easy ways that you can rate your photos if you are looking to learn more about organizing and calling your photos there's an awesome webinar next week that mo is hosting about getting started and he'll go over a lot more about how to organize your photos better and browse and then after we dive in to a little bit instead of browse we're gonna go and take some photos inside of develop and kind of go over how to you know set the basic tonality and kind of set your color points for your shots like as you can see on my screen here I kind of just grabbed a ray of you know kind of underexposed or overexposed photos just kind of different shots there's also a couple photos that we can do some retouching in I know a lot of landscapes need some retouching especially if you're at a beach that's crowded or you're at a place that has a lot of people and then we'll go over a couple different ways you can use local adjustments to paint light or paint detail or you know really kind of selectively edit your photos and then we'll go over a little bit about how to use masking instead of landscapes and then lastly well not really lastly but another component inside the webinar is we're going to be going over how to add and apply different filters and effects to your photos and I'll give you guys some tips on you know my favorite filters that I like to add on to landscape shots so first of all we're inside of brows and this is basically where we're just going to be you know browsing for our photos and so I have these shots here and a quick way that I like to organize my landscape photos because I kind of shoot but different you know I like to shoot kind of a all different mediums of photography from real estate to landscape to portrait and so basically if you look on your left side of online photo ah you have these different pains over here and so what I like to do after I have my photos after I've found my photos is I'll just add a different album so I can add an album and I can just add you know a landscape album or you know any different album I want to and then I can just grab a photo and I can just drag it into here and drag and drop and then once I open up photo raw again I can simply click on that like a for example I have my masking and brushing here for a masking a brushing webinar I did and now I can just go back to my landscapes and I'll have my selected landscapes so this is good for if you want to maybe create an album for like Instagram or social media that you can always drag your favorites into because then you can go back and you can find those later and you can just export and you're good to go so a quick way to organize your landscapes I'm not incredibly huge on organizing my landscapes I know a lot of people are but just to give you guys an idea of how to is you can either you'll notice that if you hover above a photo here it'll have these five stars and then a box and then a heart and an X if you're completely unfamiliar with on photo ah these are just ratings that you can use to rate your photos and actually I have a poll real quick here I'm actually gonna start a poll and this will give me a better of a better idea of what you guys what your experience is what's on the photo so I just started that poll feel free to answer those questions and I'll just continue on here so basically if you want to rate your photo you can either click on these stars so if I wanted to rate it a five star I could simply click five stars and it will rate that photo of five star photo you can either do that or you could just just simply hit five on your keyboard and it will rate your photo for you a quick way if you want to rate photos and you want to auto advance to the next one which you you'll see if I click or if I hit five on my keyboard it'll auto advance to the next photo let's just select it up here in photo and Auto advance so if you don't want that to happen you can just unclick that and now if you set a rating so if I set this rating for three it won't advance to my next photo I like to keep it on just because when I'm writing stuff I usually do want to advance to the next photo so another nifty way besides just using the one through five keys is you can actually go in here and you can use different color ratings I know a ton of landscape people use these for you know they'll do like red for mountains and like yellow for oceans and green for foliage or whatever it may be landscape photographers are usually really organized when it comes to their photos since I shoot a whole different you know a bunch of mediums of photography I'm not really in tune with the whole organizing for landscapes but if you are a great way to organize is just as simply rather than clicking on this box and scrolling to the number just think about it in terms of numbers because if you just hit six or seven on your keyboard it'll rate it for you and then you don't have to click this box and go down here and find which which color you want to rate your photo another great way you could rate it is just simply like or dislike so if you have a bunch of landscapes and they're all kind of similar you kind of shot a bunch of them at the same time you can just click you know like or dislike or you could just click P and it'll like the photo for you and then you have all these photos rated so you know which ones you like and dislike and also if you do rate these photos so I'll just go through here and rate these real quick I'll just do like a one or two three is fine do five for two or four and then so I say I have all of these rated you notice that all of these tough ratings well if I go down here to my sort menu and I can go up to rating and then I can click hoops I can click descending and that'll put all of the five-star ratings at the top and then all of my lower star ratings at the bottom so if you do that and you have a of different landscapes you can easily just organize those so that you have all of the ones that you like that are five-star rated at the top and you can simply click those you can export them tend to develop whatever I may be just so you do keep track of your landscapes better is there any other any questions right now mo no no questions right now you're doing great keep my on going awesome okay so looking at the poll about 1 you know 5 percent of you said browse so we're gonna get out out of browse because I know it's probably pretty basic for you guys and we'll start with just heading in to develop so once you've found your photo you can just simply head into develop here and now we can start editing our photo this is kind of an underexposed photo but I didn't want to blow out any of the lights up here and generally when I'm shooting long exposure trying to get like astrophotography I generally want it to be a little darker especially using a Hama photo raw because you can easily bump up the shadows and the shadow slider and photo Rozz just beyond words so you'll see this photo here and really all we need to do to this shot is kind of pull up a little of those darker tones in our photo so if you have a photo like this and it's a little bit dark and you're like what do I need to do to kind of boost this photo up a little bit I would either head to these two sliders here either your mid-tones or your shadows because those are kind of the tones in our photo that are a little bit dark and a little bit lacking so if you just head over to your shadow slider you could just pull up your shadows and you'll notice right away that it's already bringing in a bunch of light and a bunch of a bunch of those shadow tones back into our shot so once you've kind of pulled up on those shadow tones it's gonna make your photo a little bit flat because it's you're all you're doing is pulling up the darker shadow each homes in your shot so since we don't need to mess with exposure and we kind of just pulled up on our shadows a great way to bring life back into your photo is just simply go up to your contrast slider which the contrast slider is just kind of gonna bring in more contrast by kind of adding in some darker tones into your mind into the micro contrast into your photo so to show you what I mean if I pull up on the contrast it's gonna darken the shot because it's gonna bring more contrast more dark tones into your shot so what I like to do whenever I'm whenever I have a photo like this is I'll mess with the shadows first and then the contrast to get where I want the contrast to be and then I'll head down to my mid-tones here and I'll pull that up a little bit and the mid-tones are gonna pull out the mid-tones in your shot which you're going to be kind of this the area up here by the mountain and down on the water here the areas that aren't incredibly dark or incredibly bright are your mid-tones so now that we kind of have a you know a basic tonality set if I hit the backslash key my keyboard you know in three sliders we've already gave this photo a lot of life well there's a ton more we can do to this shot and the first thing I want to do is I'm gonna actually just heat up the photo a little bit there's kind of this blue cast around it and I don't want to heat it up a ton I just kind of want to give it a little bit more of a heated up look just to bring a little bit more color back into this cloud here so I'm just gonna pull pull up on the temperature a little bit that's a little too strong probably right about there and now if I hit the backslash key my keyboard you know we have like a basic tonality and we have a basic color point set for our shot now we can do is usually with all landscapes or most landscapes you're gonna want to crop especially if you're shooting with a wide-angle lens if you're shooting raw you should be able to crop a photo pretty easily without getting any distortion or any noise this photo I think I shot it with I can't remember what body I shot it with but there's seems to be a lot of grain in here with in the darker areas so don't mind that all I'm gonna do is just click on crop and for those of you that aren't familiar with with these lines instead of the crop school these are the rule of thirds lines and so basically the rule is is that if you set your subject or a point of interest in your photo on the intersecting points of these it's gonna make it more interesting so if you're ever kind of confused on how you need to crop a photo or what your crop should be you can always just use these lines as your guide I wouldn't recommend every time you know putting your subject on the intersecting points of these lines because the rules are meant to be broken and you don't need to do that to make an interesting photo but if you are kind of confused and you're like wow I need to I need to crop this photo but I don't know how to crop it you can definitely use those these little points as kind of your guide so I'm going to do is I'm just gonna hold down my shift key I'm just gonna pull back on this crop and then I'll just pull it up and like I said earlier I'm just gonna set you know our subjects kind of on the intersecting points of these these lines here so I have the reflection down here and then I have my mountain on the line so if I hit enter I have a nicely cropped photo that has my subject on the intersecting lines of the rule of thirds which should make it a more interesting shot so now that we have our basic tonality set for our photo and we've kind of set our color point now what we can do is we can deal with the other areas in our photo by just using local adjustments so if you're not familiar with local adjustments local adjustments are a great way that you can sort of paint on light or detail or colors or kind of anything you want to do to your photo and they're all local they're all done locally and they're not they're all non destructible which every edit you do in set of photo raw is non-destructive anyway but local adjustments are a great way to sort of selectively apply edits to your shots for example if I want to darken this area in the reflection all I need to do is I've added a local adjustment layer I just make I'm just gonna make sure it's set to darken and now what I can do is with either my local adjustment brush or my local adjustment gradient in this case I'm just gonna use my local adjustment gradient because I can drop it down and then I can flip it and a little dark in that area on the reflection and within local adjustment gradients you have this little perforated line right here which is the feathering on your local adjustment gradient this little smaller bubble is how you rotate your gradient so if you want to rotate it and then this bigger bubble is how you move the gradient around on your photo so for this particular shot I just want it to be applied to the reflection of the water so I'll just lower that feather quite a bit so that feather is just kind of starting out where the horizon line is and then I'm gonna do is in local adjustments you can either pull up on the exposure to make it less but what I like to do is I'll just head over to my opacity and I'll just pull it down a little bit just so that it blends better with the actual photo and now if we hit the to turn this on and off does a great job of kind of subduing this area on our shot and making it a little less distracting because whenever it comes to reflections remember that the reflection is always going to be darker than the subject or the actual shot so whatever's on the water is going to be darker if you have a reflection that's incredibly bright it's gonna look unnatural so local adjustments are a great way that kind of subdue reflections in the water and kind of lead viewers eyes into the subject here so now that we have kind of our local adjustment for the reflection another great thing instead of local adjustments is you can just paint light so what I like to do especially with mountains is I'll just add a local adjustment layer I'll select light in and now what I can do is I'll go up to my local adjustment brush which is K on your keyboard you can grab that and if you want to decrease the brush size all you have to do is hit the bracket keys on your keyboard so left bracket key will decrease it right bracket key will increase it and you can just decrease your brush size and whenever I'm painting local adjustments I never really worry about the opacity of the or the feathering because I just kind of head over to the opacity inside the local adjustment layer and adjust after so to give you an example I'm just going to brush some nice light onto my mountain here and I know it's gonna look incredibly intense don't worry we're gonna pull back on it so there we go it looks insane and it doesn't look very natural but the great thing about all these local adjustment layers and any filter that you add inside of effects is that you have the power to go back and adjust the opacity of that effect or layer so you can simply just head over to your opacity layer or you rapacity slider and then just pull it back I like to pull it back to just a zero and then incrementally kind of just pull up and you can kind of just add light as you please so there we go now if we turn this on and off it's actually looking a little too intense so we'll just pull it back again to about half that so there we go we've kind of brightened that up and giving it a little bit more life and now if you you know if you've added any of these local adjustment layers another thing you can do is you can readjust any of the settings in here so say you wanted to heat up this mountain a little bit because if you do apply a local adjustment layer and you do anything with lighten or you're boosting up the exposure more often than not you're gonna lose a little bit of that color in there so you'll notice that if I turn this all the way up and i zoom in here oops you'll notice that we were losing quite a bit of that color on our mountain so we go back and turn our opacity back down to about 25 ish now what we can do is we can just increase the color temperature a little bit to bring back some of that color back in or mountain there we go now we have a little bit more light given to our subject which is the mountain and we also have given some of that color back into it when we added the exposure another great tool if you're looking to use local adjustments is to grab a local adjustment layer and if you'll if you grab a local adjustment layer it's going to apply it and it's automatically going to be set to darken so you'll notice that if I close out of this and I add this layer the exposure is set to negative one what's always going to be set to negative one that's kind of the default but there's these awesome presets dials up here that you can add on to your shot and a great one that I like to add that's it's it's called magic I fix her but you can use it for anything and it ups the exposure and it ups the structure and it adds a little contrast and what you can do is if you're kind of the same thing I was doing earlier is you can do that you can use this preset style that preset style of magic I fix her and you can paint it onto like mountains and stuff or you know anything that really needs just kind of life added into it because it's gonna bring in some detail it's gonna bring in some contrast and it's gonna bring in some light so it's great for mountains or eyes or kind of really anything that you want to just kind of liven up and then like we did earlier is we can just head back into the opacity turn it down a bunch and then we can just boost up our color temperature and now we've added a little bit of life into our mountain here are there any questions so far moe hey no questions right now keep going on you're doing great awesome thanks alright so that's just one example of how to kind of liven up a photo real quick so if I hit the backslash key on my keyboard oops you know we did that in three sliders inside of développé and then we added two local adjustment layers so it really doesn't take much inside a photo rot to really bring your photo to life and then if you do have a photo like this where there is a little bit of noise I know with long exposures is kind of hard because you have to update the ISO a ton but no fear you can always just head in to either develop inside of overall settings and go down to your details right here and this is where you can fix any noise that you see in your shot so for example if i zoom in here you'll notice that there's quite a bit of noise in this cloud and then these shadows so you can do is just head down to your noise reduction and just kind of play with you know your luminance you'll see how by if I pulled up on that luminance it really pulled the noise away from that cloud here and then if you want to add or that if you want to use it on to the color so if you have these color eat colorful areas down in the reflection you can always just pull up on the color D noiser as well and then also to take denoising even further I'm just gonna reset that you can head into effects and add a filter and then there's a noise reduction filter already prepared for you instead of effects so that's one example of how to edit a landscape photo if it's a little overexposed or underexposed for example this photo was a little underexposed definitely play with your mid-tones and your shadows because that's kind of gonna bring up those darker areas in your shot definitely your shadows on the photo rot has an incredibly powerful shadow slider so if you do end up in a situation like this where your photos a little dark I wouldn't worry because you can always pull up on your shadows and then I think if it does pull out a little bit of noise you can always go in and you use some noise reduction and a little grain never little graininess ever hurt anybody anyway so if you do haven't have some noise in here and you don't like the way the noise reduction is working or it looks a little too to glow like just I wouldn't even worry about it because most of the time people aren't even gonna notice and the photos gonna look great regardless so alright so that's for kind of an underexposed photo now let's grab kind of an overexposed shot here and we'll do this one and this one is quite bright and another great thing about allman photo raw is that the power of the shadow sliders the shadow slider really helps to allow you to pull back on your exposure to reveal details like when within the sky or the clouds so you'll notice that if I go into tone of color here and I have these super incredibly bright clouds which I'm sure you guys if you if you've gone out and shot some landscapes you've noticed that it's kind of hard to expose for everything in a scene like this especially when you have is incredibly bright white clouds but if you get a situation like this I would try to expose it if you look at my levels here you'll notice that it's a little overexposed it's a little too bright but I wanted the detail in this rock and I didn't want to really have to pull out any of the shadows within it and I did that because I knew that on one photo raw if you pull back on the exposure and you pull up on the shadows you can get a nicely exposed shot so if I hold down the J key on my keyboard it's going to show me my my clipping warnings so if I hold down the J key you'll notice that I have read clipping warnings up in the top where my sky is and that's just showing my my true white without any detail so all of these Reds in here are just showing me all of my true white clipping warnings without any detail on my shot and if I were to pull back on it and it shows some blue in here that's just showing my true black so to get rid of this as I'll just continue holding down my J key and I'll just pull back on my exposure slider and you'll notice right away that is bringing back in so much awesome detail into these clouds here if we go back I mean it's just night and day difference between the details and the clouds and then when I pulled it back so we'll pull back our exposure to about where we want it I'd say almost one and a half stops back so we have some nice detail in these clouds here and then like I did earlier as you can just head down to your shadow slider and you can just simply pull up on your shadows and it'll reveal those darker areas and now you're left with awesome clouds and a an evenly explode excuse me evenly exposed landscape so a great tip if you ever come across that when you're shooting landscapes is to definitely think about how you're going to edit that Alma photo raw has an amazing way to recover shadow details and also the tone back any bright areas in your shots so if you have some clouds like that hold down the J key see where your white clipping warnings are pull them back a little bit and then you can just reveal the shadows okay so now we have kind of a basic tonality set for our shot the next thing I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna crop this a little bit and we're gonna kind of do the same thing we did before we're kind of gonna use this line as our guide and we're just gonna pull back I'm gonna hold down shift and pull back on my crop here and the main thing I want to do is I kind of wanted to get rid of those people over there and then I kind of wanted to just tighten up the frame here so I'll just pull this in move this over a little bit and now we kind of have this point around where our subject is and then we have this other point where our four kind of begins so we have this little frame here kind of framing this corner and then it's leading this little line here is leading our eye right here into haystack rock on Cannon Beach so a good thing to think about whenever you're exposing or I mean not exposing whenever you're trying to compose a shot is to think about leading lines it's really easy in landscapes to use hills and foliage or whatever it may be logs to your advantage so that you can kind of have this this vessel that kind of carries viewers eyes into whatever subject you want in this case its haystack rock and so we have this nice little line leading into it it's nice and blurred out so it adds a little bit of depth to the photo so I'll just hit enter and now we have kind of a nicely cropped photo and we can start adding different different adjustments to it so now that we've kind of adjusted for our sky here and then pulled out the shadow tones it's looking a little bit flat but that's not a big deal because just like we did earlier we can play with our mid-tones and our contrast and give it a little bit more life so I'm just gonna pull up on the contrast a little bit and then I'm gonna pull up on the mid-tones a little bit and now if I hit the backslash key on my keyboard you'll see that basically only the the only thing that kind of changes is the sky and before we didn't really want to deal with any of the other tones in our shot other than the sky so that's exactly what we wanted we just wanted to get kind of some of those details back into the sky without affecting the overall exposure of our subject in our foreground so now that we kind of had that have those adjustments set now what we can do is if you've kind of if you're playing with the white and black clipping warnings say you're holding on the J key to see your see the red to see your true white what I would do is to play with your true black in your photo so this black slider is going to allow you to play with your true black in your shot and true black is a great way to add in contrast if this contrast slider isn't really doing it for you so again what you want to do is hold down on your J key and then you can pull back your black slider actually quite a bit we'll pull it about right there and you'll see that it gives it a nice little bit of contrast especially in this area down here and kind of gives it a little bit more detail kind of makes the photo pop and then the next thing I'm gonna do is there's this kind of I don't know weird overcast color on our shot here and the way to deal with that is if you're not sure if you need to heat up the photo or you need to cool the photo down is to just play with your temperature slider because you can always so say it I move this slider too far over here or too far over here all you have to do to reset it is just double click it so if you're scared to play with a slider because you're not sure what it does or you don't want to mess up the adjustment just play with it because you can always just mess with it mess it up and then double click the title and it'll go back to its default setting so don't be scared to play with any slider because it's incredibly easy to reset and go back so the best way to learn on how to edit these photos is to definitely just play with the sliders so now that we so I'll go back and I'll keep this photo up a little bit just to bring back some of the the colors within this the beach area here and then within the sky over here so now that we have a little bit more kind of yellowy color and it looks more like a sunset which it was so now we have kind of our basic tonality set for our shot now what we can do is I know a ton of you guys I'm sure have shot photos you know at a beach or somewhere where there's a bunch of people and you're like wow you know I don't want these people in the shot but I really want to get the shot so what you can do is you can take this shot with all those people in there and the great thing about all on photo raw is that it has all of the retouching tools available to you instead of develop and effects so if you do have these people in here and you want to remove them you can simply go to your your retouching tools over here which you have your magic eraser or your perfect eraser and then you have your clone stamp tool what I usually like to do is before I grab my clone stamp tool because the clone stamp tool is kind of a manual way to remove people or objects whereas the perfect eraser kind of does it for you is I like to grab my Dreiser just to see if it can do it for me and if it doesn't you can always just reset it and go back to your clone stamp tool but if it does do the work for you it's incredibly it makes your life a lot easier because you don't have to go and clone stamp all of these people out so we'll just go in here and I'll try to remove some of these people here okay I don't think it's gonna work on these people because there's a bit of different layers of tonality so we'll just grab our clone stamp tool here and if you aren't familiar with the clone stamp tool the clone stamp tool is kind of your your mandatory all-access object removal tool for your photo so it's all manual you have to do it yourself it's not gonna automatically detect where things need to clean out it's not going to use any content-aware technology like the perfect eraser does so it's kind of all up to you but a good way to do it especially if you're doing it on a beach is to lower your brush size a little bit kind of to what size you have the object you want to remove and then use lines in your photo for example these lines on the beach here use these lines to your advantage so the way the clone stamp tool works is you hold down your option key and then you set a point so for example this is going to be the point that I clone this is my anchor point so now you'll notice that if I hover over these people there's a little bit of that point on them because I have my feathering at 100 and them well past 800 so it's covering up these people so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna grab that point again and I'm just gonna brush it on and now we remove those people from our scene there's a little bit of this there's a little bit of a halo of this guy in here boom there we go and now to remove these people will do the same exact thing oh that's bad we're not gonna do that one I made it too small okay so there we go now we've removed all of the people from our scene here if we zoom out then we have nobody in our scene and it looks a lot better with nobody in there so a good rule of thumb if you're trying to remove people from a scene especially in a landscape is to try your perfect eraser first just to see if it does the work for you because if it does it's gonna save you a ton of time later what if it doesn't and you do need to use the clone stamp tool just keep in mind that you're gonna want to set an anchor point that's kind of similar to wherever you're trying to stamp out and then also try to really make the anchor point about or not the anchor point make the brush size of about the same size as you want you really want the object to be removed for example when I was removing that one person it was a little too small and then I wasn't coming out as natural so just be careful with that it does take some time to kind of perfect it and practice it a good thing to do was just to be a good thing to do would be to just to play with it and kind of see how it goes from there do you have any questions so far moe no there's no questions right now so just as a reminder to everyone there is a QA module there there's a few questions that I'm helping out answering gears but if there's anything you want Dylan to show over or that you want him to cover feel free to throw that into the QA module and we can easily show you that again awesome thanks moe so yeah so we'll head on to effects here and like I said there's just a bunch of you know I kind of just grabbed a bunch of different random photos that kind of had different styles to them that we can kind of play with so what kind of we'll take this photo for a minute into effects and I'll show you guys a few different filters that I like to add on to photos like this the first filter I'd probably want to add on to this shot is I'll add a filter and one of my favorite filters to add on to landscape photos is definitely sunshine and sunshine is an awesome filter because it it brightens the brighter areas in your shot and darkens the darker areas and you'll see that if I add this sunshine filter it's kind of a little bit too strong in the sky area here but I like what it's doing on this area we on this area kind of by the sand and then I like what it's doing too area on my rock so you can do is you can just simply invert this and now it's not applied to any of the sky areas and then you'll notice that you have your masking brush selected already but it's set to paint out protip if you're trying to switch it from paint out to paint in just hold down shift and hit X on your keyboard and you'll notice that it switches it right away so shift X just switch from paint into paint out and bracket keys again to increase the brush size and now you can just brush in that sunshine filter onto the area on your beach without it being applied to any of your sky boom so we have a little part over here so now if we turn that on and off it's really kind of giving it like a nice boost it's emulated that sunshine look and kind of give it a little bit more pop especially on the rock here and my next favorite filter that I like to add onto landscapes especially is I like to add dynamic contrast I'm sure you guys if you've played with photo raw know what dynamic contrast is it's an amazing amazing filter to add on to your shots and basically just you know you deal with the contrast and the detail within your photo there's a bunch of different settings in here that you can apply I usually like to stick with natural or soft in this example I'm going to stick with natural but I'm gonna pull down my large back to zero and I'm just gonna boost the small up a little bit about 15 probably and the reason I'm doing small and medium is because you'll notice that the area on this rock here is a lot of smaller areas of contrast and then the areas in here is a lot of medium areas of contrast whereas the large might deal with like large areas of tonal contrast maybe you know up in here with these larger areas of different tonality but for for now we're dealing with the smaller areas of micro contrast so well boost up the small leave the medium at 15 and then the same thing we did with the sunshine is we'll go to our masking options well invert the mask and now we'll just do the same thing like you did before except I'm gonna head up to my sorry I'm gonna head up to my perfect brush and I'm gonna make sure that's selected and the reason I like to select that is because if you're dealing with dynamic contrast especially if you're trying to make your subject pop with detail but you don't want any of the other background areas to have detail especially with clouds I'm not a huge fan of clouds having that crunchy detail so you can turn your perfect brush on so that it kind of separates the tonality and then it'll allow you to brush on the dynamic contrast onto the subject here without getting any on your foreground so to show you with that what that does is I'll just simply brush this on to my rock here and then I'll brush it over here I probably don't need to brush it onto the blurry part but I'm already there so I wouldn't brush it onto the blurred part if I were you but it doesn't really matter at this point I'm just kind of showing you guys how to brush it on and now if I view my mask oops oops anyway so if I'd be okay so if I view my mask sorry guys well anyway so if I view my mask here you'll notice that the red area is showing where that mask isn't applied to so you'll see that it's not even being applied to any of these areas within the sky here and it's basically only being applied to this area on my rock and applied to this area on the sandy hillside so that's exactly what we want and now what you can do is you can go back and you can brush it in to kind of refine it a little bit more you not to be too specific people aren't gonna be looking out for that much detail in your photo but I know that if you are kind of a perfectionist it's kind of the way to do it so now that we have that mask applied to our photo you'll notice that if we turn this on and off I'll zoom in here for you guys so you can see it better see how this giving that area of our rock just a ton more detail and then another great filter I like to add I'll zoom out here another great filter I like to add on to these shots especially landscape shots is I'll add a tone enhancer and I'll go in here and I'll head down to curves and I kind of like to do this with a lot of my photos I've been doing this with pretty much every photo lately and I just it kind of just seems like a great way to kind of liven up your shot a little bit and with this photo it might not work out because we've kind of pulled back our exposure into the clouds but if you do have a photo and it's just kind of lacking on life and your it looks a little fun you don't know what to do with it a great way to kind of bring in a little bit of pop is to head down to going to tone enhancer head down to your curves which is basically your tone curve and this area is going to be your shadows and you know your complete blacks down here this area is going to be your mid-tones and then you're going to have your highlights so what I like to do is I'll just pull up on my mid-tones here quite a bit and then I'll just pull back on my shadow slider and you'll let us that kind of brings in a little bit of pop in a little bit of detail and then you can also just go back up and pull back oops on your on your exposure to give it a little bit more detail in those clouds son if I turn this on and off you know it's a good way to just kind of bring in a little bit of life into your photo and then another way to enhance your sky a little bit is if you're looking to give it a little bit more color it's looking a little bland is you can simply go to color enhancer and you can click sky and you'll notice that it didn't do a whole lot right there because there's not a whole lot of blue in our sky but if I turn this on and off leaving this area in our sky quite a bit of nice little light blue and kind of darker blue in here and you'll notice that is if I turn this on and off it's bringing in a lot of blue into this area right there so what I can do is I can you'll remember that I painted on this dynamic contrast and I painted it everywhere but the sky so what we can do is we can copy this head into our color enhancer and that we can paste that mask and then we can invert it and now if we view it the mask is only being applied to the sky area up here and it's not being applied to our rock or the hillside where the sand is so there we go so now if I hit the backslash key my keyboard you'll see we really kind of liven up this photo with only using a few different effects and different filters are there any questions so far mo okay sorry about that couldn't read you couldn't find my way in there yeah no questions so keep going this webinar is being recorded for those of you who are wondering will have it posted today otherwise keep on going doing awesome thanks fun okay so I do well I question just popped up here from Matthew saying I realized that brushing and development are a bit hasty due to time constraints how long do you spend editing an image outside of webinars do you utilize the perfect brush and I'd say I probably spend the same amount of time editing photos in the webinar as I do outside of them because I'm not I'm kind of a when it comes to photography I try to take like an honest photo unless I'm really getting creative with the filters and effects in it and the reason I love photo raw is that you can just simply add a filter adult you know added as many filters as you want and you can create a unique look in seconds so but however when it comes to retouching I probably would spend a lot more time retouching a photo outside of the webinar just because retouching if you do mess it up it does look incredibly janky and incredibly unnatural so I wouldn't worry about spending too much time with editing your photos if you do take like an awesome shot or you have you know out of and out of the camera great photo but when it comes to retouching I would probably spend a lot more time with it just because it's a great tool to have in your arsenal and if you do it right it makes your photo look a lot better so so we'll move on here and we'll go back and again I just have you know a few photos that I have that I thought I could show you guys some different tips and tricks with so we'll grab this one and this is just a Milky Way photo I shot near Mount Hood a few weeks ago and the reason I'm doing this one is because a it's an Astro shot and they're super fun to edit but B is that I shot it with my camera what body I use but came out incredibly noisy so this would be a good one as another example for noise reduction so whenever it comes to Astro shots I typically like to crop first and I like to crop first because I there's not a whole lot of interesting stuff going on in this area over here or this area up top or over here so just grab the crop tool again and just like we were doing before we're gonna kind of use these real third lines to guide us in our crop so we'll hold down the shift-key here pull it down and I'll just bring it down until I have probably the Milky Way I can kind of put the Milky Way on sort of this area of the rule of thirds and then I can kind of bring the mountain here closer to this so yeah so that looks like a decent crop hit enter and now we have kind of a nicely cropped photo and whenever you're dealing with stuff like this kind of like in that earlier example when I shot over the over Lake Trillium and you have the reflection is that with long exposure photos you you're gonna want to pull out some of the life in the shot but you're not gonna want to overpower it to where you can't see any of these stars so what I mean by that is you want to bring in some exposure or some sort of mid-tone boost or shadow boost but you don't want to overdo it so overdoing it would be like doing that where you can't even see any more of the Milky Way it's all blown out so what I would do is deal with your shadows a little bit first then maybe your mid-tones but you'll notice that right away your if you pull up your shadows and your mid-tones you're you're kind of pulling out a lot of that detail in the milky way so what you can do is after you pull up on your shadows and mid-tones it maybe or highlights a little bit and your whites because you do have some whites in the frame you have these whites in the stars as you can play with your contrast now and your black slider so now if I pull up on the contrast here you'll see that it's bringing a lot more of that detail back into my Milky Way without kind of removing some of that exposure we already brought in you can also go down to your blacks and pull that back a little bit and you don't have to do this all at the same time you can kind of play with your mid-tones and your shadows pull down on your blacks pull back on your mid-tones so it's kind of all about just kind of buying that perfect balance when it comes to tonality especially with astrophotography so now if I hit the backslash key on my keyboard it's looking a little better there's still some stuff we can do to it and what I want to do is I'm just gonna pull up on my temperature a little bit probably right about there just to bring back some of those nice colors in our Milky Way here and we already have some blue cast over here so we're probably good with the color and then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna head down to these details here and I'm just gonna go to my noise reduction and I'm just gonna pull up on it quite a bit probably about there so we have a little bit of noise reduction in our shot maybe even a little less probably about 11 a little bit goes a long way with noise reduction sometimes so be aware and now what we can do is we can head into effects and when it comes to filters instead of effects I do this every time but I always add the sunshine filter but I love the sunshine filter so much I think it really brings out a lot of life inside of shots that normally you wouldn't be able to get so with astrophotography especially if you're shooting like the Milky Way or shooting stars or something at night the sunshine field is going to be awesome because it's gonna bring out the brighter areas in your photo and then it's gonna subdue the darker tones so it's kind of exactly what we want with this milky way's we want these brighter areas of the Milky Way to come to life but we don't want to you know bring out too much of it to where we can't see any of the details so we can do is we can add a filter we can add sunshine and you'll notice right away but that does an awesome job of kind of bringing out these details in our milky way and kind of subduing the areas around it that are a little bit darker you can also play with the different presets in here I normally like to keep it at natural it's kind of my favorite preset with pretty much every filter that has the natural setting just seems a little bit more relaxed and it doesn't seem as edited but there are some great preset styles in here I know the what is it the glow ones a great one especially if you have reflections is a little too bright for this one but if you do click the glow one you can always pull down the amount or play with this the warmth and saturation so you don't always have those different controls that you can adjust I typically like to stick with natural and that looks pretty good for our shot here the next filter I like to add if I'm ever dealing with you know astrophotography like this is I'll add a filter and again I'll add dynamic contrast and this time I'll just go down to this preset style and I'll go to texture enhancer and then I'll pull it back a ton and then just pull it up incrementally until you get what you want so now if I hit this on and off I needs a little bit more there we go now we have a little bit of detail added into our Milky Way here and I don't want it to be applied to this area around it so I can just go to my masking options I'll invert it shift X to switch to paint in and then I'll just brush it on where my monkey way is so now if I hit the backslash key my keyboard you know we've kind of added a lot of life to this photo and we only really did it in a couple of sliders and two different filters so we'll go back here and we'll do maybe one or two more photos here it's kind of getting to about that time and we'll do yeah we'll do the sunset one we haven't done a sunset one yet so sunset photos are a great great photo to edit they're probably one of the most fun photos to edit the reason I like this one is kind of kind of had this little this light coming on this rock here and it kind of led my eye into the sunset so if you have a sunset photo especially a photo that's like this and you have a lot of color in the clouds and a lot of color in the water you're gonna kind of want to you're gonna probably want to deal with the saturation somehow and especially with this shot that's a little too orange and well not a little too orange it's pretty red but that's kind of how it looked so what you can do is you can just go to your temperature and you can either cool it down a little bit because I do want to bring back some of the blue up here and we can always paint in different colors within our sky so I guess speaking more to that if you guys are worried about how to start out with your photo or how do I begin and edit or what do I do to edit my shot what I would do is just try to play with these basic tone and color sliders like your exposure and your mid-tones and your shadows and then head down to your temperature and your saturation just to see like what colors you want in your shot because you can always go back and readjust them later so I wouldn't worry too much about getting that initial tonality set right away so if I hit the backslash key my keyboard you'll see just just by adding that a little bit of blue it brought some blue back into our sky here and so now what we can do is I'm just gonna hold down my J key again to see if I have any true white or true black and I have some true black in my photo which is completely fine and so it looks like most of the the photo is pretty well exposed so we'll just head to our shadows and now we'll pull back on the exposure a little bit then we'll add a little bit of contrast and we'll add a little bit more true black and then a little bit of a little bit less saturation there we go it's a little more exposed and we can always bring back saturation into the sky if we want to which we can do later but for now I'm just gonna go over to my crop tool here and we're just gonna crop this and I'm gonna crop it so that I have sort of this leading line going into the middle and I'm gonna use my leveling tool to level a photo just simply click the leveling tool here and then you can just drag it across a horizon line boom and it'll you know level your photo instantly so we'll probably keep the Sun right in the middle have this little line in the middle hit enter and now we have you know this nice sunset pic so the first thing I'm going to do besides the overall settings inside of telling a color or inside of develop using tone and color is I'm gonna add a local adjustment layer I'm going to make sure it's set to light in I'm gonna boost up the shadows quite a bit and then I'm gonna add quite a bit of structure so that gives some detail and then I'm just gonna paint it in and then I'm not gonna go back and I'm gonna pull back on the opacity and then I'm just gonna increment aliy so there we go now the kind of we kind of have that area that kind of leads the viewers eye into the sunset there and now what we can do is we can add another local adjustment layer and we'll lighten it again but we'll pull this back to about I don't know 0.7 a little bit of shadows and then we'll use our local adjustment gradient we'll drop it down then we can just flip this around and pull the feathering down and then we can do the same thing we did before and just play with the opacity so pull back some of those more details in here so that we have a nice little foreground in here and a nice background so the next thing I'm gonna do is I'm not gonna add a local adjustment layer I'm gonna head into effects and I'm going to add again the sunshine filter and you'll see right away that by adding that sunshine filter it you know took our photo to the next level pretty much in one filter so if I hit turn this on and off you'll see that we kept some of that light in here from what we painted in because if we went to local adjustments and we turn this off you'll see it's not it's not as lit up there's no exposure there and the water looks dark whereas if we paint it in the you know those minor local adjustment layers it kind of elevated our photo and allowed us to you know have a nice foreground and also have a nice background a great a great tool also if you're looking to kind of leave the viewers eye into something like this it's a add a filter add dynamic contrast and then go into your masking options invert it go down to your tone and then up your shadows and then up your vibrance and now you hold down shift and X to go back to paint in and now you can just paint in nice dynamic contrast onto your foreground all while keeping the shadows and vibrance up so that you're not removing any of that exposure or adding in micro contrast that will make your photo more dark and the same thing again you can just go to your opacity pull it back to zero and then kind of incrementally pull it up to how you please so now if I turn that on and off there's a great job of kind of Live Meeting up that foreground area for us and the last filter you could add onto a photo like this I usually like to add maybe a vignette sometimes I'll usually just go to big softy and there we go I can probably pull back on the opacity again and now if I turn this on and off we have you know this nice sunshine photo and we didn't really do a whole lot to it we kind of just pulled up on you know the shadows out of the a couple filters and yeah so I've hit the backslash K my keyboard just kind of liven up the photo just by using a couple different adjustments to it do we have any other questions mo no no questions right now yeah so just to remind everyone this is being recorded we'll have this posted up on the website today if you want to go back and watch anything awesome all right guys well let's do one quick photo here um it's been about an hour so we'll do one more photo and then I can leave you guys to start playing with photo rah so I should go to this one and this is gonna be a good photo I'm gonna show you guys a little bit on how to paint light using local adjustments so if we head into develop and the first thing I want to do to this shot is I'm just gonna crop it so again hold down the shift key pull it in get a nice crop and you can grab your leveling tool the leveling tool does it doesn't need to be inside the crop range so if you are looking to use a horizontal or a horizontal line that's outside the crop crop range you can do that as well there we go we have our photo crop now I'm just gonna hit enter and so we have this photo and we have the mountain here and then these clouds kind of going over the crown of it what I want to do is I want to deal with sort of more of the detail in this mountain here and less about what's in the clouds so basically what I'm gonna do as far as the tone of color goes is all I'm going to do is I'm going to pull up on the contrast pull up on my mid-tones and then pull back pull back excuse me on my black sliders so I'm just gonna hold down the J key on my keyboard so there we go that's all I'm gonna do instead of as far as the tonality goes and then I'm just gonna head down to my temperature here and I'm just gonna heat the photo up a little bit to kind of remove some of that blue cast so there we go if I hit the backslash key on my keyboard now it's kind of got a more of an airy feel to it it's a little less blue so now we have our tonality set let's head into local adjustments and the first thing I want to do is I want to add contrast and how to add contrast using local adjustments is you want to use a darkened layer or a light and layer and all you're gonna do is just make sure it's set to darken make sure your brush size is kind of appropriate and then you can just what I do is I just brush on this dark and local adjustment layer onto the darker areas on the mountain here and you don't have to be exact you're gonna pull back on this quite a bit but it's a great way to bring in contrast to your photo without having to actually make sure the clouds hovering over at the right time so we'll just paint a little bit more here and again all I'm doing it's just kind of painting around where the shadows are and you'll see what I'm doing in a second it's not gonna look so great right now but it'll look good in a minute and again I'm not being incredibly exact I honestly probably wouldn't be too exact in real life either but definitely for the webinar I'm not being that exact okay so now we have just like a well paint more here a couple areas that have you know a little bit of shadowy detail and we kind of painted over them so now we can do is just head over to our adjustment here and turn down the opacity again and then just kind of pull up on it again incrementally so now if I turn that on and off it added a lot of nice contrast onto our mountain here and then we can do the exact same thing but we can add a light layer so I had a local adjustment layer set it to lighten and again we'll just paint in the brighter areas on our mountain okay so same thing go back to your local adjustment layer turn down the opacity and then turn it up incrementally so now if we hit the backslash key on our keyboard you'll see that in this mountain area here we really added an a lot of nice we gonna pull up on this more there we go okay so that's kind of how to paint light onto your landscape area it's a great for with you have sorry it's great if you have overcast clouds that are kind of you have the Sun that's peeking through and adding different contrast on to your landscape layer and you want to just bring in a little bit more contrast and a little bit more life to your shot the next thing I would do onto this photo is I'd probably go into effects I'd add a filter and I'd probably add dynamic contrast and I would do the same thing we've been doing is I would invert the mask and then I would just shift X and just paint it in to the mountain here so we turn that on and off it's doing a great job of bringing in some of that detail into our mountain and another cool thing if you do have clouds like this they're a little bit darker I think they were just like some nice storm clouds I see if you want to add like a dramatic look under your photo is you can head into your local adjustments you can add another layer and you can add a darkened layer and you can drop that darkened layer just right on top of your clouds and will bring up the feather in quite a bit and you'll notice that if I turn this on and off it's really bringing in some dramatic feels to the clouds up here and you can always just pull back the opacity like we were doing earlier and make it more natural and so the last thing I'd probably do to this photo is how to add a filter and again I'd probably just add sunshine there we go and now if I hit the backslash key on my keyboard you know we have this nice kind of dramatic scene here where we've dealt with the different contrast in the mountain we've dealt with the clouds here and then we've added some detail so are there any last questions mo before we finish up here no you are good there are no questions awesome all right guys well again thank you so much for joining me those are just kind of some tips and tricks on how to edit your photos using online photo raw again this photo this webinar is being recorded so if you did miss out on anything we're all gonna be posting it to our YouTube or blog on our Facebook later today so feel free to catch up on there and again thanks so much for joining me I'm Dylan with on one and have a great day

Channel: ON1

Views: 4,380

Keywords: on1, onone software, effects, photo editing, image editing, photo effects, photo filters, photography filters, lightroom presets, masking, inspiration, photo raw, raw processor, raw, image, photography, photography training, landscape photography, portrait photography, travel photography, professional photography, professional photographer, photo editor, image editor

Id: d7g4u3ap7U8

Length: 66min 54sec (4014 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 03 2018