[Laughter] [Music] silk finest Fabric in the world luxury invented about 5,600 years ago in eastern China and associated with China like sushi with Japan then exchanged presented and sold all over the world silk garments become Mega Trends even in societies that have specialized in wall lady in [Music] silk about 2,000 years ago four great Empires Rome parthan kusan and China grew towards each other and their roads connected Goods knowledge and fashion streamed in all directions silk traveled from Eastern China via Central Asia to Egypt and Rome from place to place over land and sea 2,000 years ago afro Eurasia was connected and Wealthy as never before it was pulsating the small Kingdoms in Central Asia like kotan and lulan had great importance for exchange and mediation Neo was one of the many Oasis towns whose inhabitants kept the network alive for Caravans leaving China westwards had to pass along the taklamakan desert this region has been famous for sheep's walled textiles for more than a [Music] millennium the dress makers could do anything with wall weave braid embroider even paint figures solid fabrics for coats fine gws for shirts they sew tunic dresses short jackets long trousers and wide colorful skirts what did they do with the foreign silks [Music] now archaeological dress research could study this but garments Decay quickly unless dryness preserves [Music] them the taklamakan desert between the Tian Shan and the kundan mountains was already in ancient times a sea of sand at its core glistening in summer icy in Winter always dry the wind drove the sand in June waves over more than 1,000 km but the Melt and rain water still brought life from the mountains into the desert the rivers bore Reed belts and and let reparan forests grow the Tamarisk braced itself in the sand and its rough branches wore delicate pink blossoms you feel the magic the people collected water in basins and used it to supply Fields Vineyards and Traders Caravans [Laughter] [Music] in the ancient river Oasis of Nia a Chinese Japanese archaeological team discovered in 1995 the 2,000 year old body of a woman who died young and was buried in a tree coffin unusually the woman wore several layers of elegant silk dresses on top of each other the dryness seemed to have preserved them well but good enough to recognize their [Music] design a German Chinese research team is delving into the construction of the finds they want to make all the young ladies garments visible and wearable in their original state from the underwear to the [Music] robe in 2013 the garments were measured and examined under the magnifying glass in Shing jang's archaeological Institute in arti all clothes show signs of wear so they have been used it took 10 years to evaluate the data and reproduce the 10piece outfit many assumptions had to be [Laughter] corrected first surprise part of the inner layer Was Not Silk but wall the pant ANS socks and shoes a pair of shorts from two side Parts each the wide gusset from three pieces and the undyed waistband of two pieces was sewn together first the leg tubes were prefabricated separately at the top a zone of small scraps of fabric below it on the right a large sthe of fabric and on the left to the large piece still two additions then the tubes were closed and attached to the shorts finally the width was gathered at the ankle with brown wall yarn ready were the Bloomers in which you could do about anything with small patches the pants were repaired several times during their life on the inside of the legs where the fabric had become thin the wall material and weaving technique of the trouser legs is repeated on the shoes only with the basic color red [Music] for in is [Music] in the shoes she wore white boot-like felt [Laughter] socks her chest was not dressed in W but in silk a Gosa silk blouse with an extraordinary standup collar matching the shirt she wore a silk skirt over the wall [Music] trousers is [Music] [Laughter] but over that the young lady had a dress with a completely different cut and appearance is [Music] for effect [Music] yeah [Music] against [Music] [Music] [Music] the construction of the silk coat has the highest degree of complexity the two longest pieces in Gold beige of about 3 m run from the lower front hem over the shoulder to the lower back hem wedges have been added to the sides for the wide Bell shape more at the front so the coattails can overlap to get the necessary length small Parts had to be attached here and [Music] there gussets connect the shoulders with the sleeves from the wide sleeves rounded sections lead to the [Music] Cuffs the shaw collar consists of 13 rose-colored pieces [Music] the pieces around the neck have been cut diagonally from the fabric so that the diagonal grain allows the collar to fall particularly softly a small triangle indicates the possible closure point the flounce made of almost 13 M of fabric was brought to a good 3 m with 1 cm wide folds and applied to the lower [Music] Edge the flounce gets it plasticity from the wall fleece filling which makes it stable to create the Bell shape of the coat [Music] silhouette [Music] [Laughter] what insights did the Deep look into the layers of the near lady's clothing allow only the skirt and blouse are made of the monom material silk the shape of the WRA skirt shirt has ancestors in East China and could have been sewn there for export high- necked shirts with standup collars have so far only been found in Nia but on both women and men coat and tunic dress are made of silk and wool the coat design follows East Chinese style but the flounce is an element of the wide Woolen skirts from kodan the cut of the dress is a centuries old style of local Woolen fashion but here executed in silk trousers and stockings are made of wool only both are elements of fashion for riding and sitting on the D the tapestry with color transitions has roots in Greek ban art tradition that reached kotan so she wasn't just a lady in silk but a lady in wool and silk the young woman's robes are a very personal testimony to the Dress fashions in Central Asia 2,000 years ago when Nia was part of the networked World they show functionality combination of styles and materials and sustainable use of materials through zero waste we see great soral art in four silhouettes of Timeless Beauty and here are the current [Music] [Applause] [Music] looks [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]
