La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] la dura dura means the heart heart is a route that I bolted six years ago in Oleanna Spain it felt kind of impossible for me when I first bolted it I was like there's no way I'm gonna do this but not do a door and there being like the perfect route for me and I just needed Adam to kind of show that to me we are in Eliana and I've been trying this awesome project both and by Chris you know Adam he's climbed all the hardest routes in the world and he was looking to push his limits even further and I was like well dude maybe should check out this project later Audra because it might be just what you're looking for I touched the hose and it did not look that impossible watching Adam my mind's eye Dora Dora got me really excited all of a sudden it was like oh my gosh I can do this thing I started working on it with him and it was a really special moment from yeah the two of us to team up together to bring into life the hardest route in the world after months of trying to Adam started getting really close so what's the return Thank You winter six months later when the conditions got good again Adam came down from the Czech Republic and we picked up where we left off just working on the route again relearning all the subtleties there's so many small details to all the different moves found that even though I was trying to stay in shape during the summer time I really had to get under that specific doradora shape [Music] [Music] it has some really bad holes on it you make a move to a small side Pole and get a really crappy intermediate shuffle your feet off take this little - football thing [Music] you take this really crappy peanut hold readjust your body and you make this super big span iron cross to this hole but I can only take with two fingers when I first get it you come into a little under clang and you do kind of a dead point to a good wakeup maybe it's like a v14 Boulder problem or something like that you have to crimp as hard as you can you put your left heel hook and you go into very bad intermediate you have to bring your left foot up and you go into the ball from here would be kind of cool to clip the draw but it takes like 2 seconds so it's definitely much better to skip it make a huge spend way out right go into Andhra clink and you do a dyno into who Aiko originally we thought once you stick that gastón you're in there but I probably fell at least 10 15 20 times after that on that next move and Adams well this is my fourth trip to awliya and this year it seems like I almost spent here more time to home I tried to strewed just so many times it feels like the hardest route I've ever tried and it's really cool to see Chris after and just multiple times struggling on it seeing it seeing him being very very close and I wish he sent it anytime soon if he send it it will make me even more motivated to finish it off as well ah [Music] first time I stuck the Waco I realized like wow I really can do this thing I'm gonna do this thing and that's when all the nerves and like anxiety creeps in on a project once you stick the lower crux you still have a hard 14 C above you after you get a pretty bad shake out on this really uncomfortable knee bar you have the whole upper crux by no means is it over you have a hard dead point move do you get this he'll hook up lock off this little blocky three finger crimp and just stab to this to finger pinched left heel to a slow peak rim and you have to go into the pinch it's so stretched up and you have to be kind of fresh it's really easy to miss it that move is the moment of truth for sure on the whole route Adam is super possessed when he climbs it's pretty red he just wants it so bad and that's something I really learned from him because I'm such a kind of like laid-back guy when it comes to my climbing and just kind of let it flow but sometimes you got to like force it a little bit he climbs you really fast very precise very efficient and coordinated and it's it's really cool to see just such a fine-tuned climbing machine [Music] [Music] [Applause] this whole process of working on ladder ladder with Adam was kind of a cool opportunity for me to repay those favors to all those legendary climbers and and you know my own personal heroes that kind of helped me along the way maybe I can give something to the next generation and show them what the next step might look like and give them like a stepping stone in the same way that I had one when I was a kid the more I tried it I have the roots so wired that it doesn't feel any easier there is no margin to make anything more efficient my muscles just memorize the move so perfectly that I either have to be a little bit stronger or just have a little bit more luck [Music] I couldn't believe that I really stuck it I really couldn't be any closer to the falling and as I was resting I felt like I hadn't hardly big it was so intense it was so hard to calm down [Music] [Music] the rest of the rude which could be about late beyond itself it was just really sketchy because I really didn't want to mess it up [Music] after trying a route for almost nine nine weeks falling off on the very very top of the route that would really suck but I was lucky enough to send the route [Music] [Applause] gonna say hard to describe how happy I am today I didn't really feel confident I could do it but I had empty mind no worries and I just did everything perfectly my dream came true [Music] thanks grace for voting this beast I got to do it too man when Adam did finally send la Dora Dora I was really happy for him and it only made me want to do it even more I had to work for it a little bit longer but about a month later it came and it was so satisfying [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] come on [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] good job and you know oftentimes by the time you know we clipped the acres and by the time our feet are back on the ground we're already thinking about the next project but my doradora for me it's the culmination of a bunch of years work living in Spain developing new roots trying to find that next level grade [Music] really [Music]

Channel: REEL ROCK

Views: 7,363,855

Rating: 4.7931018 out of 5

Keywords: climbing, rock climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, La Dura Dura, hardest route, hardest climb, 5.15, 9b+, Oliana, Reel Rock, Big UP Productions, Sender Films, prana, black diamond, petzl, sterling rope, walltopia, evolv

Id: V1P97VVt6_k

Length: 19min 16sec (1156 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 26 2014

Reddit Comments

[u/diker88]

all i can think of is his THAT EXTREMELY STRANGE facial air.....gosh

[u/searine]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pdWAcK6Eh8

[u/jtioannou]

I would be screaming like a little bitch with some of those handholds he had. I would probably start screaming from the bottom and not stop until I was back on the bottom.

[u/Action_James]

I'm not sure if it's the hardest, but free climbing half dome is definitely the ballsiest rock climb in the world. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR1jwwagtaQ

[u/carelessandimprudent]

Great video! The screaming/grunting woke the gf up and I showed her I was indeed only watching a rock climbing video.

[u/distorto_realitatem]

This really put me on edge... I felt like I was falling every time they failed.

[u/TheBlauKid]

That was pretty amazing

[u/StifNippleScissorMan]

If you want more climbing videos, here is a video of Adam Ondra, same guy from the video, climbing Change, in Flatanger, Norway. Sadly you don't get to see the entire climb in detail, but there is a full movie available for a few bucks. Worth the money if you're into climbing videos.

The route in OP's video is graded at 9b+, and is one of only two routes in the world graded that hard. The other one Change, in Norway, which Ondra climbed just before La Dura Dura. They are both graded the same, but deciding exactly which one is the hardest is hard to say.

I really do love the La Dura Dura film though. As a climber it is just great to watch. For one, you have Chris Sharma, who can only be described as a legend. One of the poster children of sports climbing. Always a crowd favorite. A household name for most climbers, and the pioneer of his generation.

Then there is Adam Ondra, who at the time of filming, was 19 years old. At age 19 he has made the first ascent of the two hardest routes in the world, and he keeps pushing boundaries. I don't know shit about football, but he is the Ronaldo/Messi/whatever of the climbing world. He really is so far ahead of everyone else in the sport, and everyone is very excited to see how far he is going to go.

[u/TheFlounder]

There's something about the way these guys look. Like feral vampires or something.

But, that would explain the strength to climb with THEIR FRICKIN FINGERS.