Kolkata’s Glorious Durga Puja! | India’s Mega Festivals | Full Episode | National Geographic

mark it hi I'm Gary Megan obsessed with food always on the road and the road has led me back to my favorite destination India I love this country for its color oh it's culture and mouthwatering Cuisine if only you could taste it wow and nothing brings it all together like India's festivals a share of flowers and because of the fervor and frenzy with which these are celebrated I'm calling them Mega festivals today I'm in kkat the city of joy to take part in a mega Festival that has gripped the city dotted with magnificent pandal energetic music and dancing bold displays of Art and of course delicious food over the next few days I'll go pandal hopping and learn drumming I'll keep Pace with the festival rush or at least I'll try to never have I stood in amongst so many people and even pick up a culinary skill or two this is Mega Festival D Pua [Music] Kolkata a city of Vice Roy artists and Bengali babos and this aristocratic city is known to be pretty laidback for 355 days of the [Music] year but for the remaining [Music] 10 [Music] when moua comes to town kotta can't stop celebrating there's this electric energy pulsating through the city during this 10day Mega Festival that is Duro [Music] Puja and when the city streets turned into a sea of humanity there's only one thing you can do just get swept away doap Puja kolkata's Mega Festival which is included in unesco's intangible cultural heritage of humanity transforms the metropolis a study conducted in 2019 revealed that the 10day durap Puja is a $42 billion doll economy in itself it generates an income for over 50 million people across the state either directly or indirectly all the frenzy is centered around the pandals or temporary temples home to goddess durgo During the 10day period And there are over 2,000 of them in Kata alone and I've come to one of the biggest in the city the Shri boomi handle I think I'm going to have to wait to get in there but just look at that I have never ever in my life seen so many people Shri boomi is known for its massive pandel so people are excited and I've been told there's going to be a million people here and I think that might be an understatement how am I going to get in well in this business it's all about contacts and I've got a couple of people that are going to help supero and rfer run a theater startup and a part of kolkata's vibrant art scene I must be honest I love being a VIP but I feel a little guilty and I'm trying to ignore all those people that way yeah they have like a 5 hour waiting time out oh my goodness some of them are returning because they can't make it to the panda right now oh my goodness now I feel even more guilty so what's so special about this handle like to wait 5 Hours come on you'll go in and see there's a reason people are waiting here for 5 [Music] hours [Music] so how was it Gary that is spectacular I thought I was in Kolkata and I think I've taken the wrong turn because that's sent Peter Basilica at the Vatican City the people who made this they've never visited this in person so they've done their research on internet and have come up with this unbelievable this is a temporary structure which is created out of say rot iron fiberglass and it's humongous it's like 103 ft in height 84 ft in width that's the structure of the Bund and they've used 5,000 bamboo to make the skeleton of this when I look at the mar they it looks like marble pillars gold I mean even the the statues look like you know they're carved out of granite you know and the lighting just brings everything alive as Grand and huge as the pandal is from the outside I'm Blown Away by the magnificence of the idol oh my goodness and you can see the care and attention given to the detail now I know what all the fuss is about cuz whatever jewelry is she's Dawning on her it's all made up of gold apparently we' we've got a figure it's worth 32 CR rupees that's almost that's $4 million million million it's been specifically made for the spendal you cover the front door you cover the back door and I'll slide out with the gold you know but that is easily said than done there's a network of cctvs at the pandle many of them pointing right at the idol the imag is lead into a central control room where volunteers keep an eye on the jewelry 24/7 I noticed that duramar Idol is killing a demon that is mahishasur a demon who could take the shape of a buffalo among other things in fact he had a boon that ensure he would never be killed by a man or a god with this superpower he conquered Heaven and Earth the Divas poured in all their energy or Shakti to create a feminine formed Durer who would go on to defeat mahisha s it's late in the evening when we emerge from the [Music] pandle but it looks like the party's going to go late Into the [Music] Night there's an old world charm about Kolkata and one feels transported back in [Music] time can I get one ticket please how [Music] much Kolkata has the only surviving network of trams in India and during durap Puja you won't see many so if you see what my advice is jump on and it's a different way to see the city the tram has brought me to a rather buzzing place I think this is my stop I'm getting off this is the famous mullet gut flower market [Music] home to the freshest flowers in Kolkata and the demands skyrockets during durap Pua there is a mad rush at the market and this is one of Asia's biggest flower markets and during doap Pua everybody comes to this [Music] Market [Music] everybody's getting a bit pushy and shovey but I'll tell you what I am completely lost anybody seen the director Michelle Michelle velle oh no there he is we're good but like the hero's Second Coming Vel our director returns all I can say is I'm pleased it's not me that got lost there's this cacophony of sound and color and a headyy smell of all the flowers Rose and and Jasmine [Music] particularly and also this this phenetic energy almost like the bees that are buzzing around absolutely amazing but I just don't want a window shop I've been invited to a [Music] home and I don't want to turn up empty-handed and these are beautiful and there's 25 Lotus is in here how much 400 rupees so there's 50 rupees to the Australian dollar so what 25 cents per flow that's pretty good can I take these can I take this [Music] one 800 yeah thank you loaded with flowers I love it I'm heading to a bon Bari these are old acial homes that once belonged to Bengal zamidar or landlords the tradition of celebrating durgapuja started in bid Baris in the 17th [Music] century my hosts AET and malvika who have gathered their extended family to celebrate saptami the seventh day of dap [Music] Puja hello how are you goodar namashkar welcome to the PUO thank you for the invitation and I bought these for the push pangali the flowers has requested so hope that's okay yes wonderful you're just on time because we're about to start the pushpanjali welcome should we go yes yes on this day devotees offer p Push band jelly or offerings of flowers to [Music] Moga so Bobby pishi what is the significance of that significance this is basically to ward of evil and to welcome the Positive Vibes right and it's always your job to do this because I'm good at it can you show me how to do it okay so youd put one lip under yeah and one lip over yeah it'll happen it hang on CH TR by the fifth day you'll be able [Music] [Applause] [Music] to wow it's it's Gary Megan surrounded by Gary's Angels is that right well if you want put it that way come on give me my moment of Glory Gary's angel I love it so is there a sense of responsibility to keep this tradition going and alive and well I think there is a lot of the women around you though we are Gary's angels we are also entrepreneurs lawyers Executives and have you know a full working lives but we take time out for the family p so Dura PUO is a celebratory time and bengalis love singing so uh munu pishi will give us a [Music] song sitting in meler and Jet Bonet Bari amongst people who accepted me as a friend and I feel the feminine energy of duramar lift me an energy that moves the spirit of millions of people to create something extraordinary look what I found it's regal isn't it but with all these celebrations I fancy something a little sweet so t that's Bengali for let's go fast I'm heading to 130y Old sweet shop called balaram mik Raman mik or simply bams sudip mik is the fourth generation of a family that runs this business and is a man who keeps a watchful eye as millions of sweets make it from the kitchens to the counters for this festive Rush s hello I'm glad you answered my message and it you must be getting slammed at the moment this is the busiest time of the year so I recognize this m mishy yeah kind of but there's some things I don't recognize like what's that one there this mango Mish this is the most famous one and then what's this one here this is like a it looks baked it's called sh M but it's it's actually baked it's cooked overnight I've never seen this can we try that too oh yeah lovely is this traditional dessert or is this very traditional very traditional this mango one is delicious this is another Superstar this called Big Rula I I looked you up and this was one of the things that that came up was baked rasula I've never heard of it oh yeah see I prefer this thank you so much don't be offended but rasula I I like it but I can leave it but this this is lovely because it's caramelized and toasty if only you could taste it sandish occupies pride of place in a Bengali sweet shop and this cotage cheese dessert has been given many avatars here at ballaram so what's the most what are the most popular choices the popular most popular is this jol shes ah look at that how are these made jol Bora means water filled ah but it's not filled with water though is it what's it it's filled with syrup or honey ooh it's always nice when you find a little surprise in something I'd love to try making something so could we of course this's come and get look at this show me how show me how to do it we put pistachio first so pistachio first that way around put it in half half the mold okay so half a mold into there little bit of pressure and then a hole inside and then this is ah I see and then you pour the syrup yep and then seal seup okay the first one's bent out of shape so I slightly slip it into a pole behind me I need to get better and same yeah so you that and then look one all I'm feeling is the pressure of those eyes over there looking at our Terri my terrible uh efforts you know what it's like all jobs in the kitchen you know when you're up home and you're chatting and you're with your family and you're making 12 what a lovely job when you're in a factory the joy for some reason just seeps away but when I walk away it'll take them all and throw them away no no no no I'm going to sell them 1,000 rupees puppies that was quite a sugar rush to burn that energy off I'm heading to the new town pandle where an allw women duy troop is practicing love it this troop is female dakis okay this is the first time like we have got the female dhis that's pretty special isn't it yes and how do people react with a female troop of dhis it's a overwhelming response like enormous and now you'll have young women that want to to be T players and you know the lineage will carry on and eventually you just push out the push out the men and it just becomes it becomes female T troops I love it I want to have a go o oh this is this is not the lightest thing in the world is it so this one is that right so this one is like are we ready for some bad Taki playing so slow down a second Gaz needs a little bit of [Music] time all right all right I reckon i' leave it up to the professionals but where there is music can dancing be far behind [Music] amazing I love that did you see my little moves there did you like that so what what is this dance called This is called duni dance this is duni It's a earn pot where we put coconut yeah it's hot it's hot uh we put coconut coer and duno it's a incense it creates a smoke and we dance with this in front of M and what's the purpose of the DUI Dan it's welcoming madga it's a part of our worshipping this is a practice yeah this is a practice the main performance is on ashami which is where does that fit eth day of dura Puja Eighth Day okay but you have to show me a few steps just we can take a pot so take the pot and we are going to dance along with the drum beats and I'll try and follow you so that's same kind of yes okay take just a question do men dance differently to women no so you're not teaching me something you're going to laugh at no I'm just checking because you know if I turn up and I'm doing like this dance and all these men go what's he doing no no no absolutely right play play away Taki let's go let's go ready okay so oh you got to do this so it's the same thing oh hang on a minute you went a different direction I am so uncoordinated maybe I should teach him a few of my own moves look feel I'm feeling good now I'm feeling good oh that's that's hot did I do okay yeah excellent I feel so uncoordinated it's ridiculous and because this is hot too and the sun I am just melting so we are inviting you for the performance on ashami I'd love to come love to come but I don't have to dance do I have to dance yes you need to dance why in front of people yes oh I'm I'm a shy guy I don't know if I can do it and can I can I come like this no no you're going to wear a Indian attire yeah a Kaa pajama a Kaa pajama yes for this dance will I look nice in a Kaa pajama will you be okay yeah yeah okay I'll be ready for inspection you know and I'll join you for a dance that's [Applause] lovely I'll been asked to dress up for the occasion so it's time to go shopping for some traditional attire but it looks like the whole city has got the same idea never have I stood in amongst so many people like when I look around there is thousands and thousands of people here it makes me feel I'm being swept away on the current now we got stuck right in the middle of the crossroads Chow Chow that's [Music] nice fancy wow I'm like a king in this what do you reckon how much is this one 195 see got a oh there a pain 15 on n p fixed price fixed price please do not bargain I didn't see that on the way in but I love a bargain I like this that one's nice too I need my wife you know to help me pick one and how much are these 14 1445 again the pain oh and then it would go with something like this like a pajama it's expensive though how much are these this is 600 so 1,500 for both of them for you it's a fantastic do you want to test it cuz I can try it on but you're the expert it's a good size it's a good price definitely okay I trust you anyway my ashme is salted now so that was good shopping love [Music] it I cannot wait to be part of the ashami celebrations you looking too good The Eighth Day of the mega Festival oh who wants this one me no toga [Music] Pua I'm in Kolkata to celebrate the 10day mega Festival dur of bja so far I've been part of Mega crows stepped inside jaw-dropping pandel tasted the best of benoli sweets but things are about to kick into an even higher gear if you can believe it and right now I'm quite pleased with myself for the deal I've got on the Curt you it's okay I put a lot of effort into my outfit and I should do because ashami is the Eighth Day of durap Puja and it's considered to be the most auspicious day in a 10-day Festival it's also the day that a fierce form of the Goddess emerges and is [Music] worshiped [Music] to find out more I meet deie she was part of a study that got Durga Puja recognized as a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage of humanity this is the preparation for the shundi Puja which is one of the most important rituals in Durga Puja and what you see here is 108 lamps or Dias yeah and we're going to be lighting this during the shundi Puja is offered 108 [Music] lotuses and Chap and B a meal with 56 dishes so it takes place at the juncture of asamy and noomi so the last 24 minutes of osami and the first 24 minutes of Nomi is when we perform the sh do you notice something all the priests here are women what's even more interesting about this particular Puja is that the chanting and the drumming is being done by female [Music] priests so in terms of the Priestess that is really unusual that is very unusual because traditionally we've always seen men performing these duties so it's very welcome and very refreshing to see I don't know if I can do that it's a specious sound mean by the women [Music] everyone's friendly right now everyone's they all submitting themselves to the goddess which is why everyone wants to get a piece of her want let the and I hope I can must half the energy as cooli greets me COI how are you this is debie you looking too good ladies what do you reckon the Punjabi I love it so you want me to actually dance in front of everybody how embarrassing it's terrible only if you do it I'll do it you'll do it as well okay come on [Music] then [Music] [Music] oh that was incredible I I lack a little rhythm but what a beautiful experience amazing but I'll leave it to the professional shall I which is you I've embarrassed myself I know it but I've had fun that's what you call a classic Gary move you know what else is a classic Gary move food I'm joined by Debbie's friends as we have pushka a quintessential Kolkata street food away for it wait for it this is the great push wait wait the great pushka tasting how good is the Kolkata pushka ready 1 2 3 what do you think of it yeah it's nice nice show me show me one so a little bit of this mixture right I've got to speed up right sure not I got to get my street smarts up not joking it's actually tasting better they're tasting better yeah yes you know why cuz I'm skimming all the coriander off the top there's all this coriander and chili on the top who wants this one me no M pretty good you know in India we have the same which is which means you have magic in your hands and that's how nice is that but the magic comes from these guys right oh look another one another one another one one more one last one one together one last round okay lovely huh 9 10 pushers I'm very happy the Restless beats of the duys the energy of the denucci dancers and the flavors packed inside those tiny pkas ashami was intense and one of the defining things about this Festival is the m massive crowds everywhere this is the penultimate day in Kara's Mega festival durap puua and I want to squeeze in a few more pandal hops if I can next up chetler pandle which I've heard has been 2 years in the [Applause] [Music] making this is among the newer crop of pandal which are sending out a powerful message by putting environment at the center of their design it's designed to spark your sense of [Music] curiosity oh I love this one this is my favorite pandle so far I can connect with it these beautiful kind of natural materials and what I see is these you know rigid but acrobatic figures you know entwined together and then almost you know sprayed across the [Music] ceiling here [Music] I meet supero who introduces me to shret shret nice to meet you a Heritage conservationist by day and a classical musician by night this entire structure the entire Decor has been made out of banana box so there's like 1.5 lakhs of banana box which we used to create this over 2 years that's lovely and I love the looks wonderful yeah all of this is made out of some part of the tree like you can we can see the bananas as the Bangals oh yeah so the banana fruit which is actually what is kind of you know covering the goddess and also the main locket of the necklace oh yeah I can see now that's actually a very very beautiful flower a big one I I really like this cat la pandal has been 2 years in the making and it's made entirely of banana bark it represents the very best of Bengal's artistic Ingenuity every part of the banana tree has been used in the making of This Idol the fruit that adorned marder's hands the flowers in the necklace everything about this pandle is spectacular chetler pandle is as thought-provoking as it is beautiful and it is where my pandle hopping comes to an end as is this Mega festival and this Mega Festival has a mega end there's a final burst of shatti that will reverberate through cata a burst of colors now again Burgery and a thrilling ride accompanied by cries of Celebration and there goes duar oh my [Music] goodness after 9 days of frenzied celebrations today is a bit of sweep day I'm heading back to mv's home where preparations are underway to Bid Farewell to duramar [Music] melica how are you hi there's lots going on in here lots of noise I brought you a little a little sweet treat thank you for you so what's happening so this is the last Act of the dura PUO where we bid farewell to the goddess once again the narrative is twofold one is the Victorious goddess is going back to the Kash mountain with her children so there's celebration on one hand and on the other hand this is a daughter leaving her parents' home and going back to her in-laws it's a Bittersweet [Music] moment but the sagging Spirits perk up with a burst of the million there's laughter once more and a playful [Music] mood so I heard that this normally is for just the married ladies in the group but Mel vicer has insisted on putting it on me I don't mind I'm going now good yeah now they're having too much [Music] fun so what's the significance of all this color this is Beya which is a celebration of Victory and uh the goddess is Victorious and is going back to her house so we are bidding farewell and we put sindur on her head and also married women then put cindor on each other's face but uh in many homes now single women uh women of all marital status is complicated single LGBT the work they all do it get involved which is lovely which is lovely but there's another interesting TR every year one person from the family takes it upon herself to remain sad she restricts herself to a room and thinks only sad thoughts PA J loudly [Music] yes oh careful careful well that was a bit of heave ho but when this just started people used to carry the goddess on their shoulders down to the hugly river and then submerge it and I'm glad now that it's going on a truck and I can be part of [Applause] it [Music] J I got to see the in a completely different way hanging on the back chanting and everybody paying Their Blessings as the truck went past and the Idol went past which is really lovely but more than that you know how I feel it's just being part of that um ceremony being part of someone else's family and really connecting in a very different [Music] way oh what an experience absolutely [Music] [Applause] amazing and there it goes dugar oh my goodness and I understand the celebration but I also understand uh the sadness attached to it you know as she returns [Music] home Durer embodies creation and destruction and what exists between these two things life and this is what I've experienced in durap Pua the energy is infectious the Magnificent pandal the drummers the dancers and I feel like I've been Swept Away in this frenzy of festivities I'm exhausted but I feel energized and what I've come to realize is that culture and tradition is not something you can read about and understand it's something you've got to experience and how do you experience it you experience it at dolap puua and you experience it in India's Mega [Music] festivals [Music] go what about no take 12 so if you're here during pja take 71 normal said that the goddess appears in her most fierce form to be worship take 34 there's this electric energy pulsating through the city during the 10day mega Festival that is dur Pua 20 rupes

Channel: National Geographic India

Views: 276,486

Keywords: Durga Puja, Durga Puja in Kolkata, durga puja 2023, durga puja feswtival, india, india's mega festivals, kolkata known for, kolkata sweets, kolkata tourist places, nat geo india, national geographic

Id: AWKXVD2rshw

Length: 41min 14sec (2474 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 18 2023