Knock Sensor – 1999-2006 5.3L Chevy Silverado (Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, etc.)

[Music] hey welcome to another video from our fear no fix series on our youtube channel on the blue driver YouTube channel today on this 2005 Chevy Silverado 5.3 liter engine we are going to replace the knock sensor now this is a very long repair which means you can save a ton of money if with your blue driver you have pulled up p0 3 3 2 or a p0 3 2 7 most commonly p0 3 3 2 is what you're gonna read this is by the way the second most common repair and when that code does come up over 95% of the time it is the knock sensor Chris this is a long one you're probably looking at the lengthy video right now going about this you might skip ahead you're gonna see a lot of weird stuff we're gonna disconnect coolant lines fuel lines the whole intake manifold has to come out it seems like a lot of work it seems pretty intimidating it's not actually that bad just go step by step take an afternoon and do it and you'll be fine if you have any other vehicle with a 5.3 liter v8 say a Yukon Suburban anything like that it should be pretty much the exact same repair selection apply as well there's 44 steps but it's two and a half hours in the book you can figure out how much you can save so if you like this video if it helped you out subscribe to our channel like the video help other people find it and when you're all done male half your savings to Chris the tools you need for the knock sensor replacement are an 8 10 and 22 millimeter socket a ratchet a flathead screwdriver long and short 3/8 inch extensions vice grips hose clamp pliers and a quarter or three eighths inch torque wrench it's also helpful to have rags and a fuel line release tool we need to pull the intake manifold to get to the knock sensor to pull the intake manifold we have to disconnect the fuel line which is full of pressurized gas right now so before we get started we're gonna start the truck pull the fuel pump relay and let the engine stall to drop the fuel pressure to minimize the amount of fuel we spill all over the place once we disconnect the line so this isn't part of the repair but you can see we put our fuel pressure tester in line and we already have 50 psi of fuel pressure without even running the fuel pump relay is in the main fuse and relay box on the driver's side of the engine bay right here pull the top off and then inside you'll see a diagram showing the layout of all the fuses and the relays the fuel pump on this one is right here which corresponds to this relay right here so we'll just pull it out and put it aside so there might be a little bit of fuel pressure left in the system on this truck it's just a Schrader valve kind of like on your tires so what I'm gonna do I'm just gonna take a pic or a screwdriver or something I'm gonna take a rag I'm gonna put the rag underneath it and I'm just gonna press in on the pin and just let that little bit of gas come out and bleed off the pressure and this is just because it's a little more well controlled so when we disconnect the fuel line in a couple of minutes it's not going to go all over the place loosen this eight millimeter bolt right here and then we'll remove the engine cover lift up and pull out now we need to remove the outlet ducting from the airbox to the throttle body we start by loosening these two hose clamps one here and then the second one is over here and both are an 8 millimeter bolt there's a clip on the bottom of the outlet ducting that holds on the radiator hose and the coolant line for the throttle body the throttle body coolant line just pulls out then you can use a screw driver or a flat bladed tool insert it into the clip up here remove the radiator hose and then you can take the whole outlet ducting out and we'll put it aside on this step we're gonna have to remove the coolant line that runs through the throttle body it comes in and left here there's a hose clamp and then there's an outlet hose on the right with another hose clamp so if you want you can basically just put down a rag and pull them off you're gonna lose half a cup a cup of coolant alternately you can use some of those fancy pliers that are used for pinching off hoses stop them what I'm gonna do I'm gonna use vice grips and I'm going to put a rag in between the teeth just so we don't have bare metal crushing down so you know we're not going to tear the hose 20 miles this is trucking about it Chris miles 250,000 kilometers sorry I'm Canadian now we're gonna remove the two hose clamps you can do this with a needlenose pliers any sort of pliers or if you want to be fancy you can go in shallow the $15 and get a pair of hose clamp pliers which might make your life a lot easier but you don't need them I think we've done some other repairs where you wish you had that tool I was told I wasn't allowed to do anymore hoses without one yeah so I loosened one hose clamp slid it over second one is down here these things are worth every cent put down a rag to catch any coolant that spills and then pull off the coolant lines not too much this one here is a little bit trickier and there we go pull out on this gray clip and down on the tab and disconnect the throttle body next we'll move this hose by pulling out while we have the top of the engine clear we are doing another video on changing the throttle body on this 5.3 liter engine that's the subject of another video on our YouTube channel just like that brand new throttle body if you really want to see it in slow-mo we have a whole video for that process on our youtube channel we're gonna remove this plastic cover on the back of the intake now it's three ten millimeter bolts the one in the back is a little hard to get to so you might need a wrench for that one now we want to remove any debris that might be around the intake manifold this is to make sure that I can't fall in once we get the intake off for this the compressed air is really useful if you have access to a compressor you can use that or you can go down to any store and pick up a can of compressed air for blowing out your computer you want to make sure your safety glasses are on for this one just some nothing blows back and hits you in the eye and then we're just gonna blow some air right around where the intake manifold meets the block [Music] now we're gonna unplug each fuel injector there are eight connectors each one's the same design they all have a gray plastic clip here you pry that back then pull up on it it comes out then there's a plastic tab right here you pinch that pinch it hard sometimes it can be a little bit stubborn and pull up and then you want to put the plastic clip in right away or you're guaranteed to lose it now we'll remove the other seven injector plugs now we're gonna unbolt the intake manifold it's held down with ten eight millimeter bolts five per side the bolts are one two three four number five back here is near the firewall six seven eight nine and then number ten back near the firewall again this last bolt at the back is a little hard to get to you might need to experiment with a couple different sizes of extensions and deep versus shallow sockets here's what's working for me there's one bolt hidden down here just behind this right around here it's hard to see and it's easy to forget now this is gonna sound obvious and may be kind of stupid but count the bolts you have last time I did this I only took nine out and I spend a half hour trying to figure why the intake wouldn't come off unclip the map sensor at the back of the intake unhook the two clips here and here unplug the alternator unclip and remove the evap line and then unplug the connector remove this 10 millimeter nut right here move the wiring harness aside now we're going to remove the vacuum line from the brake booster it runs from right here to the back of the intake you can remove either one but this hose clamp here is a lot easier to reach unplug the PCV line unplug the knock sensor unclip the other side of the connector from the intake by pulling up in this metal tab now we're gonna disconnect the fuel line first put down a rag to catch any gas that might drip out now we're going to use our fuel line quick release tool some people will use something like a piece of plastic to push up inside the collar to push the tabs in this will work but these tools are only about ten dollars and they make the job a lot easier place the tool on the fuel line close it slide it under the collar to push in the locking tabs and grab the fuel line twist a little bit and pull back and it'll pop right off and watch for a little bit of gas that's going to spill out I step before removing the intake we'll take the evap line feed it back under the fuel line so it doesn't get caught up and then we'll push it aside out of the way now we're ready to remove the intake there's a little bit more room in here than there is my project Miata watch out for coolant and gas which might spill now we're going to take some rags and we're gonna put them down in the intake ports here just to make sure that none of these leaves or needles or anything get in there and now we're ready to take that the knock sensor the two knock sensors are right here and here under the rubber plugs to access them just pull up and then unclip the connector now that we have access to the knock sensor we'll remove it with a 22 millimeter socket and all this hauling the top half of the engine off for this just to get to that so it kind of goes without saying you're probably gonna want to change both of these you pull this code it's either one of these sensors has gone bad and with this amount of work I'm not doing this again it's disappointing that this is on this truck most vehicles have these much more accessible to take the intake office we're going to torque to 15 foot-pounds plug in the sensor and then hold on to the wire up here slide the plug down and there we go now it's time to reinstall the intake we're gonna remove these rags before we do just look for any debris that might fall down once the rags are out be really careful not to drop anything now we'll clean up the mating surface for the gaskets on the hits all right Chris here you go what about these gaskets we're not replacing them today no officially you're supposed to these are a pretty expensive part they're rubber they should be reusable personally I wouldn't but ultimately that's up to you first step reassembly we're gonna bolt up the intake manifold we'll start up by threading in all 10 bolts just finger tight before we thread them in we're gonna apply just a little bit of Loctite - for you - that's blue medium strength might be a little much there for now I'm just doing these finger tight when it comes time to torque them up there's a two-stage process and they have to be done specific order I'll show you that order now in a couple seconds and then also we'll put a link below that'll give you a diagram you can use to follow when you're doing this yourself now we're going to torque down the intake this is a two-stage procedure we're gonna go in the order shown on screen and we're gonna go on the first round everything's gonna be 44 inch pounds the second round is gonna be 89 inch pounds you're probably gonna notice that I'm using a 3/8 inch torque wrench here this is too big for these torques ideally you want a quarter inch for this so we're gonna do the first round 44 inch pounds using the order shown the second pass same order but 89 inch pounds this time all right let's do it evap line PCV hose brake booster evap connector alternator connector now we'll put the wiring harness back and the 10 millimeter nut clip on the wiring harness and the knock sensor connector connector for the map sensor now we plug in the injectors on the driver side this tab points to the back of the truck on the passenger side the tabs face forward and now for this cover three ten millimeter bolts push on the fuel line and it clicks in place and replace the metal clip hook up this hose behind the throttle body and plug in the throttle body connector push down to the grey tab throttle body coolant line now it's unlikely to be a problem but since you might spill a little bit of coolant on this step you should check your coolant after and top it up as necessary now we're out late ducting gonna clip on the rad hose and we're also gonna clip in the throttle body coolant line install the ducting throttle body and on the mass airflow sensor tighten your hose clamps finally the engine cover ever finally done all right that's it this thing is buttoned up we're ready to get the car back out on the road whenever you have a check engine light on use your blue driver to reset the check engine light but you're still not ready to take an emission test you are gonna need to complete a drive cycle to reset your monitors that takes about 40 to 45 minutes of driving before you take in a mission chat test do your smog check function on your blue driver Chris it's a long one but it's not hard and by doing it yourself you're gonna save a ton of money a ton of money indeed this is two and a half hours in the OEM book that it takes so you know how much money you're gonna be saving I might have taken you an afternoon but well worth it there's 44 steps nothing here to be afraid of this should be easy as you just saw and if you liked the video please like it on YouTube and subscribe to our Channel got new stuff coming all the time unintel next time fear no fix you

Channel: BlueDriver

Views: 323,931

Rating: 4.8985715 out of 5

Keywords: BlueDriver, fear no fix, auto repair, automobile repair, DIY, chevy, chevrolet, GMC, cadillac, silverado, sierra, escalade, tahoe, yukon, suburban, avalanche, classic, P0332, 0332, P0337, 0337, knock sensor, knock sensors, knock, sensor, repair, replace

Id: IOKFqzRILB4

Length: 20min 38sec (1238 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 02 2018