Klipper Timelapse is EASY Now - Updated Setup Tutorial

what's up everybody jj here and today i'm going to be helping you get time lapses working on your clipper firmware running 3d printer and this time it's so easy this is an update to my previous video covering it that was the old way of doing it this new way supersedes it entirely the first thing we're going to do is actually remove some of the things we did in that video but this makes it so easy to do i got it set up on this printer last night it takes maybe 30 minutes max and that includes some of the configuration which you can spend as much time as you want doing configuration and tuning of retractions we did it on this one last night so today i'm going to step you through getting it set up we're going to use this printer because this printer is dead stock clipper time lapse wise there's nothing installed or configured yet so now i can get this one out of the way so first off i guess we can call this the prologue getting things back to stock if you did follow my first video of getting time lapses the old way basically you just go into your printer.config file and remove any macros in there related to time lapse next you can go into your moonraker.config and either comment out everything in that section or just delete it entirely because we'll add it back in in a little bit and that's kind of all there is to it that's all i did and it's up and running now i think it might leave some programs and files on the raspberry pi but that doesn't hurt anything to leave some of those things on there now that we're up to chapter one of getting it started on a fresh 3d printer and there is a written guide i will link in the description down below that covers installation and configuration but i'm going to step you through as we're actually doing it on this printer so hopefully with both of those those can help you out and this whole new time lapses things totally relies on this new moon raker plug-in that helps get time lapses really well integrated and also the new updates to the fluid user interface that allows you to control a lot of things through the interface instead of needing to go in and really code them into the config files so first off we need to install this moonraker plugin so we will ssh i use putty into this printer so log in to your raspberry pi so here's the three commands we need to do first this first one to navigate to the root directory then the second one that one is a fairly quick install of it and then run this last command so next we're going to go into moonraker.config copy and paste this section of code in there this will allow us to use the auto updater to auto update this new time lapse program application that's running on the 3d printer we can see if it worked if we go down to software update and you'll see this time lapse section down here at the bottom so now that it's installed we need to do some configuration of it we'll go over to the moonraker time lapse configuration file so first step we go into printer.config copy over this include time lapse config save and restart the next step is setting up your slicer to properly add in the g-code commands to run the macro to take your time-lapse snapshots so since i use cura that's what i'm going to step you through right now basically go to extensions post processing modify gcode add in a script insert at layer change time lapse underscore take underscore frame so that way every time i slice something in cura between the layers it will insert into the g-code that macro command so then whatever i set up in my config files it will run that macro next step is to activate the component go back into moonraker config and down at the bottom this is where earlier i was mentioning if you've done this before you might have something in this section and so you just copy paste this in there it's an empty component you can uncomment these things and define some things inside of this section but if you're using fluid and i'm pretty sure mainsail has this functionality enabled as well that you can change these settings in the user interface so that's super easy save and restart again and now you may notice here on the left side of your user interface there's a whole section hold tab section for time lapses to open it up this will show what the camera is seeing right now and your time lapses will show up up top down here at the bottom we can see some settings for it so you can enable or disable it auto render or not here's some some of the render settings are here if you want different frame rates save frames if you want to save all the rear pictures and then you can do the whole rendering of it on your own i don't want that i want to auto render duplicate last frames this one i might bump up i usually like a whole second of that final picture that's just personal preference there constant rate factor that's kind of the data bit rate there's a whole thing of it the lower number will be the higher bit rate you're using on there but 23 is a great place to start especially for webcams generate thumbnail is super great i would leave that one on and that's pretty much all there is to that side of it next under your settings you can go down under time lapse mode and this gives you a couple more added features you can select which camera i would leave it on default unless you have multiple cameras so you can choose which one will be your time lapse camera then you can do layer macro or hyper lapse mode hyperlapse will be at a certain amount of time so every 30 seconds it'll take a picture layer macro mode we'll use that macro that we put into the slicer to take a picture every single layer park head i do want that one on that will move the head out of the way take a picture and then move back and start printing that can introduce a lot of stringing into your prints and can take a lot of calibration to get it working and might not even be possible to reduce the stringing that sort of comes about from moving the printhead away from the print pausing taking a picture and then moving back it's pretty difficult on a lot of printers to get worked out right well it might not even be possible with some extruder setups and all so there's a ton of settings you can change here park time will be how long it waits to take that picture if it's still moving it could be blurry or the whole printer could be shaking just a little bit so having it stop for a little while can take a nice crisp picture travel speed will be how quickly you want to get away i'm going to bump mine up part position on this printer i want it on the front left on a typical bedslinger printer you'd probably want the head somewhere in the back but it's wherever you want you could z-hop if you wanted to z-hop on moving away use your def defined firmware retraction or you can define it here i like to define it right here makes it easier for tweaking to be able to just change it right here and retractions are going to be very difficult this orbiter extruder does 120 millimeters per second and i'm just kind of guessing let's we'll leave it at one and one and see kind of how it goes this is direct drive so it's going to be a lot lower numbers if you're using bowden you'll want something closer to six or seven millimeters retraction and extrude distance just leave everything else the same here you can also change your render settings same as you could in the render tab so either way you want to do it and that's pretty much all there is uh now we can slice a model and test it out so now i'll show you some of these time lapses i've started to get out of these printers i think time lapsing 3d prints was what really convinced me to buy my first 3d printer it's such an amazing thing to make a video of something just appearing out of nothingness i think is just the coolest thing ever and i love how easy it is to do this so now you can do it on your own 3d printer tuning in the retractions and reducing the amount of stringing that happens when taking a time lapse here it is pretty difficult and i totally understand if you're not able to get it working very well one benefit there is you could have it take the pictures with the print head at the center instead of moving it to the side that will reduce the amount of movements it has to do so that could be an easier route for you to take if you're having trouble with stringing on your time lapses but anyway i hope this has helped people out and i hope you start making some amazing time lapses if you start uploading them anywhere tag me i would love to watch them i feel like i can watch 3d printing time lapses all day long well as always go out there create something amazing today and i'll see in the next video [Music] you

Channel: JJ Shankles

Views: 29,350

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Id: Z2ut7lGHWuQ

Length: 8min 55sec (535 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 02 2022