Khorasan Bread the Sourdough Way

that's just our standard country sourdough here's the corus on yeah I can Pi that it's like another world so much more complex like 10 12 different kinds of flavors that it's like an explosion on the tongue our country sourdough is really nice but this kind of puts it to shame so that's why you do scalds that's the whole benefit Z good this is a little bit off to the side because that's what where you move in and out it's basically in between these I got wood on all three wood wood wood want that into I got it pretty sturdy huh it's good that's kind of exciting Milling this corus on we made this bread a little over a year ago on the mck mill still to this day people are like can't wait for that chorus on again will you make that again notice like we milled it pretty coarse not too fine we bought all these grains a while ago actually and we started Milling them on this like tiny meal the meal would overheat it's a beautiful meal get yourself a mock Mill if you are a home Baker absolutely but if you're a production Baker you know you need something a little different this is now the 183rd new American Stone Mill it's a 48 in stone uh Vermont Granite and I can Mill comfortably around 100 kilos of flour every hour uh and that's like running the mill gently where I can Mill all day without overheating the grains or anything like that when I Mill course like this the mill actually goes even faster uh so I could actually up the speed of the augur if I'd like to and kind of be okay cuz I'm not Milling too fine of a flour and that means I can actually Mill a lot of chus on and a lot of Buckwheat now the other problem is today we're going to do boiling pots of water cuz that's all I've got but scaling up on boiling pots of water is not great like what am I going to have a whole table of boiling pots of water to make a big batch Instead This boiler will dispense up to 25 gallons of boiling water directly into the bowl that I then put the freshly milled flour into I'll attach it mix it and I have a scald and it's a robust one actually that amount of scald can be matched to about this amount of dough and now I have a big batch of bread in the past on the mock Mill we had to Mill forever and then we had to put boiling pots of water and there's no way we can efficiently make this bread so I had to wait over a year to get to this point once I get the mill going I bring these Stones closer together and that makes the stones rub against one another now they're not in any danger but I'm in danger of a lot of work because when Stones rub against each other they polish and become really smooth there's actually a very defined pattern of grittiness and a pattern of grooves in the millstone which actually allow the flower to Mill and once in a while I have to restore that pattern with like a hard brush it's um something that I don't have the bandwidth for right now but it's going to require that Crane and it's going to require moving the millstones up and then hand brushing them until they're rough again I hear it's about 1 day of work and probably the first time you do something you can expect it to go longer so it's going to be like 2 days my first time maybe we'll even capture it on video but the way in which you prevent it from going faster is by making sure that as you run out of grains you bring the stones apart so they're not rubbing against one another Well up until now we've had to do this to find out if we're running out of grains and the purpose of the mirror is so that anywhere in the facility you can see oh I got grains I got grains Pete do we have grains Louise do we have grains yes so now everybody's aware of whether we have grains and when we run out we can just come and separate the stones so it's a lot easier we're going to wait for this to to Mill down and meanwhile we'll get our recipe together and start boiling a pot of water Bon it's a grain that traces back uh 6,000 years from now back to Iran actually the region of Iran and and some farmers in Montana actually they named it after an Egyptian word named kamut it's an old Egyptian word so they sell it under the name of cud but it's actually Coran grain okay so now the flower is out of the mill and my job is to unwind the stones that's all it takes but if you miss that moment then at like 80 revolutions per minute the stones are just like rubbing against one another and polishing and it's not great so that's the whole point of the mirror it took about a minute from that dot with a very coarsely milled grain so now I can say at this point it's a one minute warning you're not moving from the mill at that one minute warning 0.879 kilos so 879 GS you use the Whisk for this yeah but I usually don't incorporate it fully until the water is boiling boiling do you usually cook the grains all the way up together yeah okay so let's use a wh otherwise there's a risk because it's dry that it's going to burn on the bottom of the with regular flour there's a rule of thumb one part of flour and five parts of water so this amount of uh 800 G you could incorporate 4 kilos of water yeah and we just did 1.7 roughly what's beautiful about the scald is as we're cooking the grains we're doing something in releasing the flavors because is when you mix this in what's then a normal country sourdough recipe like flour water and salt and you're basically mixing like a porridge in with the dough it incorporates fully in the dough it creates like a it's almost like a sponge is the best way of describing it it holds water really well it doesn't really release the water into the dough fully and so your final dough ends up way more hydrated than it otherwise would be and the way that trans Ates to you know somebody enjoying this bread is when you buy a bread that doesn't have a scalded component and it's a wheat bread in 4 5 days you know it starts to dry out it's surprising how well a scald holds moisture uh even four or 5 days later the bread you know cuts and uh is really enjoyable and so this bread lasts longer uh it's it it also receives all the flavor of this uh this really old grain and can you imagine you know they were already sarm was mentioning this you know in conversation with me earlier they were already mixing you know wild wild grasses with uh wheat at that point to create hybrids and this is I guess a very old hybrid which is why we can call it an ancient grain essentially from then until now what we've been doing is crossing different Wheats together usually selecting for what's favorable for the farmer meaning things that are less prone to fall over in the Wind things that are less prone to um you know Sprout before the Harvest uh not always great for flavor or nutrition so these older versions of wheat which we're really trying to explore with our Mill uh often pack a lot of flavor they don't make naturally strong Do's uh in the same sense and so when you mix something like this with a nice modern organic bread flour uh you can create create kind of the marriage of of Two Two Worlds the flavors of old the nutrition of old uh but sort of the the nice things that we've developed since then you know more of a velvety soft uh crumb which comes from sort of modern Wheats uh they're starchy components so now we're now we're cooking this together and as the water temperature increases I'm going to get a thermometer the texture of that that skull will change usually you have to achieve about 160° F to start seeing the gelatinizing effect of the scald we're at 143 and climbing so little ways to go there's another effect in these old grains there is a protective layer around this uh the proteins which uh avoids the breaking open of the protein uh which normally happens by physical kneading process but in these old grains as well as in spell for for example it's the same uh they don't crack open with physical interaction so you actually have to bring it to a certain temperature to get rid of that protective layer and then the the grain will suck up more water and incorporate it into the dough that's why why it so makes so much sense to to make a scull in Germany where sarm's from the the average Baker is aware of this process uh this in the US is like almost non-existent uh as a baking technique truly like the amount of bakers that are using this technique is way less than 1% of all bakers that are out there and I would say that 95% of Bakers really aren't aware of the cause and effect and what what the point of this process is that's how much the factorization of bread has created a knowledge loss cuz we didn't really have a strong enough bread culture coming into the industrial revolution to uh deal with that so it's interesting working with someone like sakar from a different uh place in the world where bread is like for every meal well dinner is called evening bread actually dinner itself is called evening bread the very word dinner doesn't exist we call it evening bread and what is that word AB bro AR bro abent bro Aben bro and bro is bread yeah and abent is evening and in Bavaria in the south of Germany they call every meal broide bread time can you imagine it says so much about how much bread is used in in our culture let's sit down for a bread time so now we have the aroma of the corus on actually I would be probably pretty happy to put like some honey with this and uh just eat it like it is as a porridge it is already Sweet and you know why because the starches in the flour they are transformed through the heat into sugars yeah and you can already taste it now isn't that nice the other nice thing with the boiler is we'll get get out of this type of situation at the end so we cooked these manually and so the very bottom now we have a scrubbing event we now need to make the rest of the the dough water first water first great this is the strong bread flour I actually think the hydration even here is quite low we might need to adjust it to me this is still very stiff and then we have a very stiff scald coming in so we should add more water right away we did 1.67 so far I think we get another 400 G easy this is actually still a recipe that hasn't been modified much I probably have modified it on another sheet and I went back to my version one which is version one means it it's like where I first wrote it out for this grain versus buckwheat and the truth is is like you know the the buckwheat recipe comes from the Ukrainian Bakery ke um in ke uh Bak house they're using different grains in a different climate than we are and so hydration is going to vary from region to region we were working with a house milled Rouge Bordeaux together last week and uh s Karm couldn't believe how much water we were adding into it to make a dough but we went up from 72% hydration to 85 right that's a lot and so usually like a stone mil flour is in the mid 80s for for American grains but then the flour that we're using here is uh roller miled organic flour from Central milling and usually mid 70s is a good uh hydration point so let's actually find out exactly where we are uh we're currently at 1.67 + 400 so 2 uh 071 we're at 57% that's why it was so dry we were even below that yeah and so we actually need to probably go all the way up to at least 70- 271 we need 400 53 more G of water the thing is the auto should still have the appearance of of like one piece not like cut up pieces of very dry dough that's never going to come together and so it's almost better for it to be wet and a little loose also because you're going to have it sit ambient and you don't want to create a skin so the more wet it is the better when I was in Portugal even with the same flow that I that I had I had to lower my ratio so Arizona because it's so dry and you were in Portugal so wet I mean we were like in a fog and there was water coming down from the rooftops when I arrived Without Rain Without Rain it was bizarre so it really impacts like the nuances I wouldn't even call it nuances anymore it yeah it it affects the the recipe to its core so give it another minute or two remember we already kind of brought them together now we added more water now it's taking the water a minute to to to hydrate but you still will see that it's going to be relatively stiff for an auto lease it it can be kind very Shaggy at this stage and then we're going to give it 30 minutes and you'll see how it develops but this is more acceptable at this point and actually it will be better if I can scrape the edge of the bowl the problem with what we did is that we have a lot of pieces in here and we already have some strength in the dough so it's in a strange State feel this yeah clumpy we need it to become cohesive at least because there's hydrated that's what you're looking for when we were hand mixing in those days getting this kind of Clump was uh not a great feeling like took forever to work this out there's still going to be more moisture coming into the dough because the sourdough starter is also quite wet so this is a starting point the final dough will be just slightly more hydrated than this take note how the dough is not keeping together when you pull it it's just ripping apart immediately in 30 minutes time we will do the test how it changed okay so I'm just adding the honey adding it to the scald is kind of a gentle way of incorporating this into the dough honey is kind of a weird thing it doesn't really like to dilute in water very easily the scald still warm I I have an interest in stirring the scald to cool it down and so I'm kind of completing two things in one by incorporating the honey into the scald so then it'll gently layer into the dough in the next stage of the mixing so it's already been distributed pretty nicely it's probably going to combine a little with the moisture in the scald as well it would be completely acceptable to use cane sugar or you know something else to but the the honey is I think more in alignment with the overall in investment in the process meaning you know we're working with with locally grown grains or we're growing or we're working with these Ancient Grains we're going through the trouble of Milling them and making them into a porridge and we're using an organic bread flour and going through the process cane sugar is a highly refined thing um takes a lot of energy to produce it doesn't grow anywhere near here you know whereas I I like working with honey I like the complexity of the flavor it's just it's just a nicer overall uh ingredient for me it's um porridge that you can eat like this yeah nice I'd be quite satisfied with it actually I might add a little salt which I mean we will to our bread so now you can start to imagine how this is going to be in in the bread super nice okay now off to the fridge we go and in 30 minutes we'll use it so we're just adding the amount of starter that we need for this formula now we reverse scaled it into the bowl and now it's just just resting on top of our Auto lease no big deal we're going to now measure the salt into this small container and rest it right next door and so now our mix is entirely prepped we have the scald cooling down in the fridge we have the salt we have the flour and the water in the Oto we have the sourdough starter and the Honey is a part of the scald at the moment so all the components of the mix are together we just need to wait for the auto lease to finish we need to add the scald to the dough mix our final dough and begin the bulk fermentation you can already see there's a way that you can pull a little bit right so there's something developing here some gluten structure it's not very elastic yet but I got so wait another 15 minutes and it'll change even more we are ready to get the chusan uh mixed together I'm taking the scald which has cooled down to room temperature this comes from Germany too this was a nice gift from SAR they're like a wider base but plastic and this is the comparison so he was watching my videos and actually he sent me a couple of these in the mail last year and I really enjoyed them this year he brought me a lot more for certain tasks they're like really convenient to have different uh it's it's also nice in Portugal you were working on uh marble yeah and uh metal ones they destroy the marble yeah so I enjoyed working with them there and here's the salt going to check our base dough it's no longer really clumpy look at it's like devel yeah just by time half an hour yeah we're going to add the salt and then get the mix going what's really satisfying about this bread is it's in many ways a culmination of a lot of the things that we've learned over the years it reflects kind of the the local Milling it reflects deep flavor of Ancient Grains it's a high quality bread flour it's still feel like a nice soft wheat loaf that's really palatable potential for frustration if you start with this kind of grain you can play around with whatever grain as a home Baker or as a new Baker but this is a more advanced uh bread and in order to do it at scale you have to have a lot of the components very well thought through and that's why I had to wait over a year to even attempt to do this uh for proof so now this final dough is going to come together and it should really become a nice cohesive and you know decently strong dough there's no reason that it shouldn't be strong we started with a nice strong bread flour so we just have to let it work for a little while now this is the kneading process and you know with because this is a primarily it is wheat coron is wheat as well it's just a very old variety but with with a wheat dough like this kneading brings the gluten strands together and forms like this more complex web with every minute uh that you need at this pace uh this mixer though is a versatile mixer you can make cakes in it you can make uh topping fillings in it it generally mixes less efficiently than some of our bigger uh machines do one of the things you can do is feel the bottom of the bowl to kind of get a sense of the temperature while it's mixing it shouldn't be hot to the touch that's for sure uh we started a little warm here and it's worth knowing where we are so the final dough I want to be about 84 so I have about 10° of climb at this kneading position which means I can probably comfortably me knead for 10 minutes with no real worries it's coming together nicely actually actually smells yeasty doesn't it sweet at least yeah well there's no danger for yeast being in there because you don't even have bacon SE here I think because of the sugar and the scald the ye yeasts in the in the souro they just develop more they get more Fed so I'm very excited about having the spread back on the menu soon because to me it reflects sort of the aspirational skill level that I want us all to be operating at as a bakery I really want to be able to produce this style of bread I think it's I think it's a notch above what you can find in most Artisan bakeries because you have to build in a lot of efficiency in order to allow for extra processes like the scald to allow for the time and and the organization between all the stations and so I think us being able to make this bread for our community at a decent scale represents an achievement uh that we can be proud of and then another thing that we talked about using all your senses which includes taste taste very nice actually so this Do's now definitely coming together and developing strength for me it's about the right amount of hydration wouldn't you say like it so long as it keeps building strength from here and becomes a little more workable we don't have to do all of it in the bowl uh some of it can come through stretching and folds and then of course the final shaping gives gives the bread the most overall structure we're going to rest these overnight of course in bittins uh and then bake them all you can start to see now that the dough is coming off the edges of the bowl more and more L and less seem to be stuck on the edge and that means the the gluten network is strong enough to pull all those remnants of dough in on the inside and you're starting to see that you know we're getting better developed dough so now this is a matter of getting to the temperature that we want still not there uh 79 so we we want to keep kneading and we also want to develop it make the window Paine test yeah let's try it so it's just barely starting to get strong enough but ripping apart quickly yeah so actually we're in a good timing we have about 6° left of temperature climb and the dough is not quite where we want it it's nice and strong now the rest will be done in a stretch and fold as long as we have decent temperature 80 it's not bad no I think it's good okay so we have our dough we'll stretch it in a little while it's nice smells good look at this really nice really nice yeah so now we're looking at the cor on bread that we've mixed and it's time to get the first stretch and fold going so it's how long has it been since we half an hour half an hour yeah so much smoother nice huh yeah very nice this now we going to build even more tension in the dough just by doing these stretches and folds it's beautiful smooth dough and keep in mind there's a large percentage of you know this coar m corus on it's uh beautiful so now we're going to do this a couple more times shape the loaves like we shape all of a regular sourdough in a in a bantin no real nothing really crazy going on there the rest of this we do all the time with every dough we'll put them in the cooler and then it's going to be a while before we bake them we're going to let them uh uh in this case uh well overnight it's only this one tray yeah just one tray well it's our course on sourdough so we're now taking it over after this scalding after the mixing and shaping it's rested for a little while this St had a weird Journey we actually had to cart it over to our other Bakery so we shaped it in Mesa then a truck driver brought it back and here it is one discussion we were actually having is how conservative we load our ovens compared to other bakeries and it's uh a nice thing to think about because it means if we have to make more bread in the future we don't necessarily have to add hours and hours of baking time we can just bake the loaves closer together really I'm very happy with the final bread at this stage it's strong came out nicely Taste of the dough at many stages now we've got to differentiate it from our sourdough it's in a slightly different bantin it will look a little different coming out but I'm also going to change the scoring just slightly so with a corus on I'm going to do the wheat pattern in both directions so five cuts on either side one and then 1 2 3 4 5 at the point of sale it's very clear that this is not country sourdough I have a little bit more wind protection now with this new piece of metal as we score the the makeup air is no longer blowing in our faces it's kind of nice was a fairly simple fix did I recomend that to you don't right that's typically what I tell people do [Music] [Applause] okay set a timer for 18 minutes all loaded up okay they look good huh all of them look good beautiful ear it's going to be a delight to see how those come out it's taking a year to bring this loaf to life in this context the last time we made it it was is not a sustainable product we would never been able to put it on the menu we would have lost a lot of money making it and we would need like extra people working for us just to make this bread now we've waited for a mill you know we've gotten the mill set up we've learned how to mill we've got the boiler we're going to be able to do these scalds at scale we're adjusting to the current conditions I adjusted the recipe today this is the a test product it looks beautiful and it tastes far superior to anything I currently have on my menu and and that's a lot to say because we have good bread on our menu so I'm excited to to see this bread come together it's really nice we're just going to check the color of these back loaves I'm going to send these front loaves back to get a little bit more color you know I can almost smell the honey smells really good this bread this one needs a touch more color all of them actually do but it's nice to rotate them and give them more even bake yeah it really like one of the defining features of this grain is the crust that it forms it's very distinctive do you smell the Honey at all right now I can the caramelization of the honey is a special scent this bread needs to bake a little bit darker than the appearance of our country sourdough uh otherwise you miss out on all the benefits of that corus on crust CU that's where the flavor of this bread really lies is that coron crust you will have a nice spongy interior from the scald and the flavor of the crust will um go through the whole crumb as well over time oh that's an interesting thought how what's the the caramelization is happening on the outside yeah and the and the flavor profile of the caramelization will actually go through the crumb as well if you give it a little time that's why after half a day the breads actually taste better yeah that's why like at8 or 10 hours is better in a wheat bread that's the effect of that you have warmth out of the oven at like 2 hours but you actually don't have much flavor yet and the flavor builds over the course of the day interesting and that's why also baking it a little bit darker is actually like every bread Pro knows that you don't want light bread light bread is boring it doesn't give you the full potential of the bread the most common objection we get is can I have the light bread and it's actually nice because the oven naturally varies so of course we can give the lightest bread to somebody like that but when it's a repeat thing we also have to educate our customers about this and and not be afraid of the objection because people don't even know what they really want and so if you bring it to them and you explain it and you deliver it and you know you let somebody try something it's like wow actually this is nice it opens up a whole new world okay I'm starting to get the smells of ready to go [Music] bread oh nice very nice they're just absolutely striking these these breads uh yeah when they walk a little bit on the darker side but still very nice I really like this line of contrast and I like to see a full range of color here also culminating with a bit of dark I agree like a you know on a 100 point scale if ideal for a baker is 80 maybe this is like 82 83 the right side of this oven naturally bakes a little bit slower and so if if I was going to pull lighter bread I would pull it from this side so it's fully baked for sure we said yesterday 204 is what the what we know about gelatinization but you see the the crust isn't developed yet and so it's completely okay to let it bake a little longer and develop that crust because once it's fully baked the color comes quick 1 minute can matter especially in the hot part of the oven are these going to be sold today you know we have 12 of them we got to do something with them so I'd say uh we're going to steal a few for ourselves and then uh we'll yeah probably send a message out huh we probably ought to Freshly miled the flour on our Mill in the back and then we made a porridge out of it so we combined it with uh boiling water it's technically not vegan because a lot of people honey is technically an animal product characteristic of this is because of that porridge the loaf keeps longer how beautiful this came out still still very very warm so maybe a little bit too early but we couldn't wait to slice it still very complex little bit acidity also you squeeze it you hit a nice crackly sound really nice never tried a bread like this sweet salty nice honey flavor in the end of the of the chew I think better than anyone could have expected and still a very airy Crum for such an ancient grain very very nice can't get enough of this Cut's like another brand for the same grain you can taste just like a slight hint of honey in the back the crumb is super tender it's open it's like as light and Airy as we would ever want any of our sourdough to be but it's got like a a really nice quality like a a nuanced taste profile above and beyond our standard country sourdough it's going to taste even better in a few hours as it just ages a little bit more uh like probably The 8 Hour Mark we're currently like 30 minutes in we couldn't wait any longer and it's surprisingly not sweet which I like personally it has that scent of honey when you smell it but it's actually a real bread a little bit darker y a little darker that's just from the grains there's a lot of shared components the base bread flour is a type 85 in both but this one has a pretty large percentage of this porridge made of corus on and that's what delivers all the extra flavor all the extra Nuance the honey is a nice addition it helps the crust form like a slightly different texture than the rest of our crusts a little more caramelized the corusant also is known for crust development as a grain so it's a it's got a distinctive crust but it's leaved with the same Harriet s absolutely that's the amazing thing Harriet does it all it it really fits like yeah it should have been there all along

Channel: Proof Bread

Views: 29,477

Keywords: sourdough starter, sourdough bakery, microbakery, proof bread, proof bakery, sourdough, bread, baking, cooking, food, gourmet, artisan, homemade, handmade, handcrafted, flour, recipe, how to, kitchen, ingredients, cottage bakery, rustic, small business, entrepreneur

Id: ITxZpRyCXf0

Length: 33min 6sec (1986 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 21 2023