John Deere 1640 Fitting the Hi/Lo Clutch Pack

[Music] well on our John Deere 1640 here this little clamp here was what was missing and as you know I bought this tractor in pieces so I tried to buy one of those through the week but John D didn't have any we had to send to America to get one if I wanted one and I tried the local records door dismantlers and they didn't have one either so I made one I had a and I just had a little bit of stainless disc there and so I've bent it usually they're pretty well straight but I usually give them a bit of a twist with the pliers and then when we bolt this up that actually just holds a little bit of tension on this pipe here now whether we need to do that I if you remember last time when we put this here pipe in there was that much tension or a down the bottom here that we had trouble pushing it in I had to get a bar down the bottom so I nearly didn't bother with it I thought it'll stay there anyway but then I said well I've not I don't usually take shortcuts so that's a little that's a little clamp I'll tighten that up and then we'll come back and we'll fit the high/low okay I've got the floodlights in here and it's not too bad you can still see if it's a dark little hole but I've got that clamp that I made there and now if we take this high-low housing make sure the thrust washer is on it and we should be able to line this up and get that just sitting up in there now that's a bit of a fiddle it's a fiddle with the cameras and all in place I'll just have a look and make sure I haven't bumped anything now this pipe here for the PDO pack we have to make sure we get that lined up or else we'll be pulling it out and lining it up once more so as we go in we feel for that that feels okay now there's also another pipe here on the four-wheel drive models only and this pipe there's an o-ring up in the housing here we poked him up in there he comes around then down the bottom does the four-wheel drive supply line so it's just good make sure you've got all that in place before you go further and on the top of the high-low where the lift cover goes is four pipes I always like to take them off - it just gives you a bit more clear and says you come in so we're sitting up in there I feel like I've got that sitting in a good spot on the pipe that's just moved again that feels better so that pipe there is in we're sitting up on the Dale's now there's 9/16 spanner fits the 3/8 UNC bolts that hold the high-low housing in and I normally don't do this up yet we do have a bit of time to do that that pipe the four-wheel drive pipe that you can see me pointing to but you you can't really see it I'll just that's the pipe actually give it a white and I have it out but but that pipe hooks onto this other one and that goes down and supplies oil to the four-wheel drive engagement solenoids so that can go down there and the reason I don't do it up just yet is once I've done that up that pipe sticks down the bottom so far and if I move this or bump it sideways I end up bending that pipe a little bit so while leaving it up out of the way just for the moment there's less chance of damaging the bottom of that now this bottom right has this tag on it now this tag it helps hold the pipe work into place so there's pipes to come in through the back here and this little clamp it actually holds them in place so these pipes one goes in see if I can get these right while we're going this one goes in there and then that clamp stops that pipe from coming forward now if you don't put that in now you won't get it in later it's just the base of a thing to get in it goes on the bottom right and this job its job is to hold against that pipe to stop the supply pipe yeah it has an o-ring round there it stops that from coming forward and disengaging so you need to have that in the other pipe that goes in here it sits across like this and up the top you have the two pipes and yeah this plastic stuff here they have it so the pipes don't rub together it's a although that that loose bit up there I might chop that off save it getting caught but yeah I don't know I don't think it ever does much good to tell you the truth but those two pipes is that one can sit there but the main thing main reason I'm telling you this is to remember this ball - yeah that's a that's your main interest so I'll just snip that up and here see where I am please all up 3/8 bolts usually got about 35 foot 10 so that's that bolted up now on the housing on the gear housing where it comes back here we have sealing rings in here near there on this shaft here and their little hook rings they're in good order on this up the end of this shaft there's a little brass spigot and the little brass big it helps with the lubrication oil so what I do now get a bit of grease again put a bit of greasy and I always put it in this piece so when we're going back into the gearbox we only have this one spline to line up when we come through here if you're a door whack a little bit here I haven't got things lined up this spline here can damage that ring surface so we don't want that I'll just give this a bit of a white make sure we're good so I like to do it this way and that way where we need things to seal they seal so there we are we know we're in you know we're right in nice and firm now at this stage here there's these four pipes they come in from the top look down each one make sure they're clean some of them have a restriction in the one over here for the PDO clutch pack so we have to keep that in mind and I must have dropped one poor video if I don't drop a part really okay so that part of the housing there that's pretty good now there's a couple of things we can do now I'll try and get the camera set up and I'll show you we can get the air hose and we can do a bit of testing now's the time to test that we have everything everything working well and everything lined up and this pipe back in and the clutch pack working and the high/low working and all that so I'll go and get up for that and we'll do a quick test well now we've got all the high-low in and we have the the main pipes all set up how we think it should be well we have an opportunity now to do some air testing so with air testing air testing gives us the opportunity to test all the systems before you can see me moving the microphone over here but anyway it gives us an opportunity to test all the systems before we have to pull it together and find we have something wrong so and this is the first video where I've got two cameras I've got one coming in here for the pipes and I've got one coming up the end and we're going to try and get a bit flashy editing going and see if we can see what happens as it happens so first cab off the rank is the PDO klutzy now the pipe to the extreme right if we put a bit of air down there it actually blew it out okay I'll hold it actually I might get a fatter a fatter tip that's not so wobbly well build a whole more pressure against it so we'll just screw that in we have a adjustable ends here so on the extreme right hand one if we hold a bit of pressure down we can turn the PDO if I put air in there like ah now you can hear a little bit of leakage today that's the ceiling rings but my compressor sitting on about ninety eighty ninety pound at the moment and you should have around 150 pound 120 115 year low circuits so so by popping we can turn that just by popping a little bit of air there look there's not much that's shafts locked so that we know that's working fine if we move along to the next pipe here that's the PDO clutch pack so what we're looking to do was been able to turn the shaft when the PDO pack is engaged it should lock up so we'll try that see that starts lock the only way we can turn that because because there's nothing on the clutch in if there was nothing if it was hooked to the tractor and the clutch was there you wouldn't be able to turn that so you can see this turn inside the hub then yeah we can okay the next one along is the high-low and that's the high-low clutch setup so we'll pop a little bit of air in there that's locked up you can see a little bit of air leaking through here like it will leak where oil won't but we know that we can turn it with a little bit of air nowhere near system pressure we can't turn that anymore and lastly the one on the extreme left if you don't have four-wheel drive this is just blocked off but we have four-wheel drive I'll hold my finger over there I've got the pipe loose actually but that just that's just our Lube pipe and when the wall attractors running that will put air up here that will put oil a permanent all supply wall attractors running down to the four-wheel drive engagement solenoid down the bottom so so now we can have a quick look we're pretty well ready to put this on and yeah the four-wheel drive clutch pack sits in here and I find with the four-wheel drive clutch pack in there I prefer to put it in later I'd rather put the tractor together and slide that up in later you can without the bottom one you can get dislodged a little bit so that's just what I prefer to do we put the four-wheel drive shaft for the front-wheel drive shaft get in the claps packet it sits in and runs off here and I like to lift it up in later and make sure it's right and I can still check everything so we can't put the top on here yet the valve shift cover we're going to have a quick run through that and just make sure it's okay because it's been sitting for so long but now we can have a quick look at how the system works now the oil comes from the suction screen that gets sucked up through this pipe here to the transmission pump the transmission pump sends pressure oil down this line here to the transmission filter past your filter bypass valve which we looked at in an earlier video then once it's all good there it comes back in here then it goes up this pipe here and that's the oil supply to your top cover and we can actually and we will when we get the tractor running we can put a test pressure in here and just see how that's going and adjust that if we need to so the oil coming up here gives us oil pressure for the PDO brake the PDO clutch the high-low the four-wheel drive clutch pack and a lubrication circuit then once all that once the top cover is finished with the oil that comes back down this pipe here that probably goes in the side there so you got a bit of a bend on that I think but a look a bit um and it comes down this pipe here out the side and then the charge oil goes up to the front hydraulic pump because the hydro pumps a variable piston pump it'll actually stroke and D straight on its own but it can't actually suck oil up so it needs a positive charge pressure doesn't matter whether it's two pound or ten pound it needs pressure so any oil that's left over from here it gets sent up to the front pump and that then we'll run your steering and all that there's a little bleed orifice in through the side here that supply oil going to the front there's a little orifice in your brake valve that supplies oil to keep your brake master cylinder here full I don't know if we need to look at that or not I think I'll get it all going first and just see and if we have to do that we will but there you go that's fitting the high low and testing it and this housing once we put some quad rings in here and things like that well we can move him but anymore laughs and put him back together but anyway we might move on now and move on to the possibly the rear engine seal and get that bit done [Music] you

Channel: Bundy Bears Shed

Views: 19,404

Rating: 4.9033818 out of 5

Keywords: John Deere, jd1640, jd2040, jd2140, john deere hi/lo, john deere tractor repair, john deere repair, john deere restoration, bundy bear

Id: wRWsTu6BzkA

Length: 18min 14sec (1094 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 17 2019