It doesn't take much to kill a Yeti

today we've got a lovely yeti sb150 in for service and I want to make a video about this because there's loads of little intricacies here if you're going to get one of these service of stuff to look out for now initially this bike came into us and the customer said oh with a little bit of play in the back I think it's just one of the bearers would you mind having a look when we start taking things apart we discover an awful lot more than that and I want to try and talk you through it because this is one of those cases where one little thing that you've not got on top of can lead to an awful lot of other things happening the line which end up being very costly so what we first of all did was just starting to take out things like the infinity link now the ET use an Infinity link which fits in here and the idea of this is this is the main pivot and this can float now we thought it was just these two bearings at the problem and if we take a closer look at these should see that bearing just move like that and on this side it's probably a little bit more obvious now that seems like quite a small amount of movement here but multiply that out across the entire swing arm and it actually end up quite a bit now the other problem with this is this Infinity link is really worn so let me show you here so this is how this moves you can see this is actually pitted I can get my fingernails in there it's all scored up here and down here as well now these Infinity links you can actually use a needle grease gun to keep on top of grease in these but conveniently this one is actually hidden behind the frame so you end up removing quite a lot of frame parts to get to these now the big problem with this is you think there's not an awful lot of movement but you can feel it here and if I sort of exaggerate the movement like this I think you can clearly see all of that movement there it's been wobbling around in your frame so definitely not cool now these come in two varieties this is the the cheaper one of the two at 290 quid and they do a kushima sort coated version for 320 so it's like a 30 upgrade for an already very expensive piece of Kit now so that's one major problem what I like to do when we're doing a pivot bearing job like this is to get all the pivot bearings out and normally replace everything because the biggest cost in all of this is actually labor time really in removing all these bearings carefully so if you're going to get your bike down to this level you might as well just replace the bearings while you there the bearing kit for a Yeti is about 45 quid uh small in comparison to the labor time of removing them so all of these bearings on the yetis all have little lips to them as well so you have to be fairly careful uh looking at these these are two that are quite worn out so let me just get a zoom in you can see that movement there and they just sound rough the second you tried to turn these they sound Appo in so both of these are awful good news though is the actual pivots themselves are fantastic what we looking for is evidence of any under rotation so scoring or MK or anything but that actually looks really really clean so good news pic bolts are in good Nick and that goes across the board all the pivot bolts are a really good Nick lock tights intact all of these look excellent so that's that's a really really good news the other bearings actually are okay they could probably just be cleaned up they're a little bit rough but we could reuse them but like I say for the small amount of cost in replacing these is nothing compared to stripping the whole bike back down and getting a few months time and redoing them so as a policy we just do them verbatim and just get it done one of the biggest problems of all this movement is it transfers onto your shock and you can just see here how we're starting to get we marks just around here this is really really faint but if you you to see where the anodizing is just starting to change color here now this can be down to a couple of things one there could just be a buildup of dirt underneath these um air SEALS or there could just be a little bit of play in there as well now this particular customer is very very lucky because we just went down to Fox for a staff training day and as we did we thought well you know what if we're going to be taking shocks apart we might as well take shocks apart from people who've got bikes in for service right now so we took this down and said you know took this to Fox and they um well you'll see it we're going to make a video about our entire day at Fox it was a really really fascinating day but they stripped all this down replaced all the seals free of charge and upgraded them to the factory spec adjusted as well so this now has high and low speed compression high and low speed rebound built into it and of course the very cool orange adjusters so very very lucky Happ to be complete coincidence but that has probably saved them um a good pretty penny cuz the thing with these shocks is that you can't just do an air like you can normal so shocks the second that you take apart at X2 you taking apart the whole thing there's no such thing as just an air service to get to these seals here the whole thing has to come apart and be bled and pressurized Etc you'll see that in the the full video that we did with Fox so very very lucky indeed um when it comes to the bottom bracket they did not get away so lightly so I think what's happened here is the the rid has been feeling a little bit of play um and as a result they've just been tightening the preload to try and get rid of that play and what's happened is we have a real mess here so this is their shaft so here on the non Drive side there is actually so much bearing wear this is almost straight here but this is probably half a millimet difference here so this is almost where the bearing is completely seized and it's just been rotating against here even on the drive side we can see lots of under rotation so um we could change the bottom bracket but this is never ever going to be running smoothly it's always going to have some play in it so this is Landfield this is just going to go straight into the bin which is a real shame um the thing is is when we spoke to this customer like what's the best long-term solution see this has p41 bottom bracket um and go to a dub axle and as we talked about this on the channel before but it means that the actual room for some bearing is very very small so you don't end up with a very good solution so this 29 mm um axle on a 41 mm shell you can just see there's hardly anything if I took this apart you'd see very very small Bears which just aren't durable enough for like riding in this sort of Muddy stuff that we have here so long term soon as we have to replace this and we have to replace this uh we're going to go for a more long-term solution so we're going to go for the Race Face cinch system which is a 24 mm Steel axle um they have it in stock It's relatively affordable and it comes with a sort of a direct Mount chain rings as well so um I haven't got them here yet we are desperately trying to wait for them to arrive so we haven't got time to do the rebuild on this video but I think that long term if you run pf41 and a dub for a mountain bike probably what to consider a different option because this is never going to be a great solution um it has been made worse by the fact that this bottom bracket is sign ly undersized and when you're dealing with such fine tolerance as this that does make a difference so we did just get our 40.8 five this is like the bare minimum size um and really this only just fits in not quite a whole way ideally this should actually be 4.95 and this is a 40.9 five um and that has no chance of going in at all the fact that this bottom bracket shell is undersized and this has very very little tolerance has definitely not helped uh this problem so we are going to tidy this up for this customer we want to make sure this is a really good long-term durable solution so um as you can see a fairly large repair Bill going on here from what started off as just a little bit of play in the back wheel and but I think it's definitely worth doing it so more of the story is I'd love to show you all put them back together but all that stuff is in the post so we're quite a typ time scale to get this back out ready for the weekend well before we wind this video up I know you guys love tools so just to show you the tools that we use to remove all these bearings uh we have this press kit here which is pretty useful this actually did most of the stuff so this uh involves all the drifts and presses that we need so we have um a receiving cup like this that comes over the the bearing and then we use this as the drift and uh this bolt comes through so we can the bearing would sit in here and would drift the bearing into this receiver cup and then these parts are pushing them back in these are quite good when we're dealing with metal components and we've got nice flat edges to work with uh these work really really well and like carbon frames or really weird like um uneven surfaces and we're really really worried about the paint workor we also have this drift set from ult ult and this is just full of beautifully made um ABS plastic drifts and cups and receivers um there is literally every size of drift in there possible um so yeah we've got 101 Solutions of removing bearings as carefully as it possibly can you will not find a hammer and a drift anywhere in our workshop for doing this sort of job we've got more than enough bearing drips for removing them nice and carefully okay um last thing is we clean CLE up all of this in the Sonic Cleaner Sonic Cleaner is awesome for doing suspension pivots it really does help clean up all of these little Parts here and get them absolutely pristinely clean so when the bearings do arrive we can just put everything back together assemble it and make it absolutely perfect okay as it turns out we actually do have the time to show you the reassembly because our supplyer silverfish have been absolute Superstars and man to get us everything sent ahead of schedule which is amazing so first thing we're going to do is of course get the yeti manual um Yeti actually have all their talk setting on a table rather than printed on the side so it's really important to get the manual it also tells you all the right greases to use in all the right places uh so that's definitely an essential pop we've gone for the upgraded switch Infinity that's what that should look like from new now this is the one with the kushima coatin so this is meant to be a hard anodized process so it's meant to be more resistant to that wear and scratching is also Hollow for weight savings um when you get these they don't always has come fully filled with grease so you are going to need the yeti injection switch Infinity grease thing and this is really important especially if you're a Yeti owner definitely invest in one of these they're not actually that expensive would say about 25 quid or so um so we've done that already we pre this we know that's good to go we've also got all the bearings I'm going to show you how we pressing bearings and we have a Race Face crank set so I'm going show you a much more durable solution to this pf41 on a mountain bike with a 24 mm axle right let's go get started we need to press in some of these bearings so Yeti bearings actually have this little Ray section here which makes it really difficult to get a bearing kit on it so you need to get an overbearing kit which will won't interfere with that so we have a level 18 mm drift here that will fit over this and we can press this [Music] in [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] he [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay pivots in shocks in that's all s let's turn our attention to this bottom bracket now as you saw we've already Reed this out to 40.9 8 cleaned it all out looking good and we know that our test gauge fits in there nicely as well happy with that now we're going to be fitting a Race Face bottom bracket because we're fitting a Race Face crank set now this is an aluminum shell going into a carbon frame and the instructions from ra face actually really good it says on here first of all that the dimension should be 41 to 40.9 F so dimensions are clearly written in here if your frame is out of spec take this back to your supplier and say o out of spec sort out um It also says we need to use a grease not an antise not a lot tight but a grease and also gives us instructions here if your bottom bracket is oversized for any region it does actually give you instructions as to what retaining compound Etc to use as well so really good quality instructions for Race Face happy with that now the reason we're doing this and not going back to our SRAM system is because of these 24 mimet axles and we are fitting a Race Face crank set with a steel 24 mm shaft this should be considerably more durable for this sort of setup so first of all let's get this in look at that smooth as you like that's what we want no forc in it at all has a nice smooth fit very very happy with that should never ever be trying to fight put in a bottom bracket in it should just be nice and smooth really doesn't need an awful lot of force forcing it something is definitely wrong it's time to get the calipers out and measure the Race Face Sy system uses a little lock ring like this now sadly we can't stick with their pink design because it's just not in fast enough so we got this press deel one that'll do for now and do you know what I actually think that after they've got their little fox orange update they'll probably want to change their color scheme to Orange anyway it's just my hunch definitely should do that so this is all pre greased and it just uses a old style Square taper tool to do this up and it's pretty spicy if I remember it is written on here 40 Newton m So Soft clamps on the vice let's get that in there stal in 40 Newton m there's a whole load of instructions that come with these about where all the various spaces and stuff should be so follow the instructions this comes in from the non Drive side and there we go spinning like a dream I am very very happy with how that turned out so moral of this story is high performance bikes you have to look after them because and being meticulous because all the components that go into making an expensive bike are expensive you really have to maintain them and one little bit of play down here can start manifesting itself and end up with costing a lot of money in other places so please keep on top of your service in pay attention to all the talk specs and happy riding hope you found this video useful if you did please give it a thumbs up and leave your comments down below till the next one take it easy

Channel: Mapdec Cycle Works

Views: 117,512

Keywords: mapdec cycle works, mapdec mechanic, Yeti SB150 service, yeti sb150 review, Fox X2 Service, RaceFace Ride Cranks, Piviot bearing overhaul, yeti infinity link service, Yeti Infinity Link

Id: lUoQurLm760

Length: 17min 23sec (1043 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 26 2024