Is Oil Paint too Advanced for NEWBS?

i have worked so long and so hard that's what she  said long and hard to make acrylic paints do the   things i want them to do but i have the snagging  suspicion that maybe oils was always the way to go   i've never really given them a fair  shot i've played with them a little   bit here and there but i think it's time  to really buckle down and give them a try hey guys jay here welcome to eons of battle  oil paints are the hot new thing right now   stop writing your comment i know they're  not i know oil paints are nothing new   but five years ago many painters were not using  oil paints the way they're using them today   it feels like how airbrushes felt back in the  day i'd see people complaining that you don't   need an airbrush regular paint brushes can  do all the things an airbrush can do which is   true but boy does the airbrush make it easier  and similarly today it's looking like yes you can   do all the same things with acrylic paints that  oils can do but boy do oils make it easier and   that is what i want to do today i want to tackle a  project specifically designed for oils because all   previous attempts have really just been getting my  feet wet i have tried oils a little bit but i was   never super satisfied with the results i had good  luck with the black oil wash on some necrons the   oil wash worked fast and perfectly shaded these  scorpec destroyers and i used a white oil paint   to quickly paint the recesses of their weapons but  the next time out with the oils disaster struck   i put a black oil wash on these metallicters and  it took them from colorful and vibrant to a dark   muddy mess i was so bummed i have not gotten back  around to fixing them yet lately i've been trying   to see how oils work when used like acrylics i  painted these assault intercessors using oils and   a brush to do highlights and it worked pretty good  it was an interesting experiment but i can't say   it was any easier or it saved me any time oils are  definitely a tool like any other and it takes lots   and lots of trial and error and tons of practice  to get the hang of it but i want to unlock the   magic of the oils i see the true might of the  oil paint and i want that i want my painting to   get better and i want to finish more things faster  and i see oils as the perfect way to achieve that   in testing out oils i have built up a nice little  collection of supplies including some cheapo   student grade oils and all the way up to some  really nice artist brand stuff and everything in   between and i have a nice collection of thinners  that i'm all convinced are the exact same thing so   i have all of the supplies i need to pull off this  witchcraft but i don't have the models or do i groot crood are the weird bird lizard cannibal  allies of the tao and although i have no interest   in the tau new kill team has made me want to  put together a fire team of these reptiles   crude has a surprisingly large cult following  they even got popular enough that 4 drill tried to   make them their own army with some crude cavalry  which are positively adorable fruit riding cruise   and they even came out with a crewed version of a  vehicle in the great gnarlock this guy is a beast   literally and figuratively rarr unfortunately  like all good things 4 trill discontinued   these crude models 7 years ago and now they are  incredibly rare and hard to find although not   impossible i'm keeping my eyes open but anyhow  these models should take to oils perfectly and   make for an easy way to show off just what these  paints can do their bare alien skin wood clad   weapons and leather clothing should provide an  excellent canvas for the natural shading of oils   to really shine i went out of my way to find all  the best possible bits and models for my kill team   including the classic crew carnivores the  powerful and chunky fine cast resin crew talks   the ultra-fast dog-like croutons and for my leader  i acquired dayak greck the crew tracker from   blackstone fortress and you might have noticed  not all these parts and models are official   i made extensive use of 3d printed parts the heads  are modeled by and made available on cults 3d by   the artist felix the crazy his designs are  great and if you download make sure you tip   and the crude hounds are incredibly gorgeous and  designed by the genius behind bestiara miniatures   i'm not saying that these are better than  the game's workshop versions but anyhow there   are three lovely and dynamic poses and i think  three will be the magic number and kill team 21.   and if you're planning on picking these up from  my minifactory alex is giving our viewers 40   off the monster hound and his entire store until  the end of december shop at the code eo bestie   and while you're there check out his patreon  too he has some incredible stuff in the works   now these crude hounds are printed by nick  and luckily annie cubic was nice enough to   send a photon monox 6k and nick gave it a test  drive this machine is perfect for printing all   12 heads and the three crude hounds with plenty  of space to spare and although the bed size is   big at 9.25 inches the details even on the small  crude heads are absolutely amazing nick even got   carried away and decided to do a little stress  test on the machine and printed a crude hound   giant a few supports and drainage holes later and  the machine did its magic look at this demon puppy   large and in charge and super crispy if you want  to learn more about this printer you can find a   link in the description below now because of  the 3d printed parts i may not be allowed to   play with this army at events at warhammer world  in nottingham darn but they look slick and they   feel special to me because of the extra effort  i put in to acquire all the best parts so i have   my crew kill team i am committed to painting  them with oil so the next step is painting   well if you had asked me a year or two  ago when was i gonna be painting croot   i probably would have said never but  good old kill team 21 making the crew   look good step one give him a good prime job i primed the models black i find that black primer  works for me in about 95 of cases i like knowing   that my shadows are already taken care of i  can do my own highlights thank you very much   next up the base coat i'm using a brown green  it's nice and dark and natural looking perfect   for the base layer of crude skin next i'm going  to do a highlight layer with some citadel death   guard green and this must be the worst paint  games workshop makes the coverage on this is   absolutely terrible which is crazy because  this is a base paint it is supposed to have   excellent coverage and instead it's got the  coverage of milk but it will go through the   airbrush okay and especially once i've  added a drop of pro-acryl olive flesh i sprayed this on from above it might seem  garish but it'll be perfect in the end   i sprayed this exactly like a xenothon only  shooting from above so that his underparts were   all still green i love the stage of the model  in only a few minutes i feel like i have made   huge strides in getting the models done but enough  airbrush now it's time to break out a real brush my croot are a very crudey shade of green now  and i really really like it often i have trouble   getting the most out of my airbrush because i  kind of feel like if i can't paint most of it with   the airbrush i usually don't bother and i just  xenothou it and then do all everything with brush   work but i feel like especially with models like  this where they're mostly one color a great use   is just to spray on my base color and then spray  on one highlight and it gives me a big old head   start on finishing the models i prepared myself  a palette i want to keep it simple not too many   colors i started how i start any paint project  with black and white then a little mahogany brown   for the brown stuff then a green brown for all  the other brown stuff some tan this will be for   stitches and mixing some demonic yellow for eyes  and lenses some death guard green my highlight   color for the skin and lastly some gray i think i  will do non-metallic metals for these crew weapons   now it's time for the oh so much fun base  coating yay i put my green brown on all his   leather clothing just one nice thick coat then i  used my mahogany brown which is a red brown on the   gun because these browns have such different  color they will not blend into each other   if you use the same brown it'll look like his  shirt is made out of gun browns can be tricky   colors to work with next up the gray i painted  everything that'll be metal with this color   it will provide a very nice base to work from  at this point the painting is very simple   everything gets a color no worrying about value  or shading or highlighting just base coating for   his porcupine quills i painted them black this  is a very uniquely crude thing and i like it   and for all his little spikes and stitches i  painted these with tan bright tan i want these to   cut through the oils eventually so one thick coat  each getting these models properly base coated   wasn't too difficult but it did take lots of time  and it wasn't much fun it's like doing a coloring   book you color every cell one color painting  carefully to keep everything inside the lines   it's not flashy or cool but it needs to be done  and now these guys are done so i get to reward   myself with some oils i can't wait i poured myself  a washed cup of mineral spirits and i prepared my   palette i put tin foil over it so i can let the  paints dry and throw it away when i'm all done   then it was time to prepare my oil pals the oil  paint is very thick so i smooshed it onto the   palette and added some thinner i prepared all the  colors i would need a brown wash a black washer   green wash and a red wash and then i added thinner  probably 75 thinner to paint and began mixing them   up i darken them all as i need them to be much  darker than the colors already on my groot and i   mix lots of brown into my green so it better match  my original base coat of green these are much   thicker than normal washes they're very similar  in consistency to regular thin acrylic paints   as you can see the green is a lot darker and so is  the brown it'll help darken everything without it   looking black matching the colors will work better  than just giving everything a black oil watch   i globbed the green brown black oil mixture  onto all his green parts i worked somewhat   carefully but it's no big deal if some of  the parts get color somewhere else it just   adds to the natural shadows i put my brown oil  oliver's brown stuff and black all over the metal   at this point it looked terrible but that's a good  thing it's important to have the model 100 gooped   now i took a makeup brush and i wiped lots of  it off i did this right away on each guy i'm not   pressing too much just touching every spot so the  oils will remain in the recesses and boom look at   that instant value i find that 30 or 40 minutes  after i've applied oils is the perfect time to do   my final adjustments at this point the paint has  started to dry and it's acting a little bit more   like you'd expect fresh acrylic paint to be when  it's super super wet and you you can wipe it off   really easily but you're pushing the rest of the  paint around but now that it's dry i can wipe   away a specific section without damaging other  sections so right now i'm going to do all of my   final touches and get rid of anything i don't want  to see and then i'm going to set them aside for   many many hours because acrylic paint is not going  to want to go onto this until it is dry it creates   a little bit of a hydrostatic layer if you put on  acrylic paint it's going to bead up but it should   be lovely once it's all dry i did this to every  recruit one at a time painting all the parts and   then wiping it away oils do take a long time to  dry but they will be easiest to remove when fresh   and i want this to be easy right now i'm removing  about 80 of the oils and later on i'll give them   a second look to do any last minute changes but  this is when the bulk of the work is getting done   this is different from washes in that i have more  control i'm wiping away 100 of the paint from the   highest parts the tops of the muscles the head the  hands and the dark oils remain only in the bottoms   and recesses which is perfect basically everything  the makeup sponge cannot reach should stay dark   but you know it doesn't have a long dry time  that's right our patreon if you like the videos   we make and you want more the best way to support  us by becoming a member of our patreon over there   you'll gain access to some behind the scenes  voting on what models i paint live here on youtube   a live hobby hangout every week some terrain stls  and more with that said let's see how the oils   turned out and many many hours later the oils were  dry ish dry enough to take the next steps don't   the models look really well shaded the oils did  a good job next it was time for highlights i took   my highlight green and began stippling my original  acrylic light green on top of his muscles and skin   i applied this sparingly a lot of the work has  already been done by the oils so i just added more   paint to the raised edges i moved the model in my  hand and looked at it from every angle and anytime   i saw a muscle or patch of skin that i could  easily reach i gave it a highlight with my brush   but anything that looked like it would be even  slightly annoying i left with just the oils   this worked really well it made the painting much  simpler and did a really good job of adding value   i continued to follow this rule  for the rest of the paint job i did another layer of green this time with a  little bit of tan mixed in and i only dotted parts   of the model i'm building up value and the closer  to white i get the more details will stand out   i continued working the skin at this point i'm  using mostly tan and i was loving how the paint   was working for me this is the most fun part of  the paint job i'm just putting on the finishing   touches i did the same techniques on the browns  going in with my original acrylic brown on top   of the oil wash brown this will lighten up the  clothing and add definition but not cover up   everything then i mixed some tan into my brown  to give myself a light shade and began stippling   the model was already looking good from the oil  wash but now it's really coming to life from these   highlights finally my lightest shade of brown  this one is close to a 50 50 mix of brown and   tan and is representing the light being caught on  the raised portions of the leather parts i did the   same steps on his rifle but here i did something a  little bit different i base coated all the wooden   parts again to bring back that red brown color  to help it stand out from the brown as clothing   then i mixed my red brown with tan and made small  random stripes across the red brown parts of the   gun to create a wood grain texture i mixed up a  lighter shade still and continued my stripes this   worked really well to create a convincing wood  finish and even though it's not a perfect wood   grain it gets the point across very nicely without  too much work on all the metal bits i highlighted   with my base color gray leaving the dark wash  showing through here and there i mixed my gray   with a little bit of white and went back and gave  all the metal on this model a quick and dirty edge   highlights the metal is showing up nicely and is  very cold in color next to the warm greens and   browns finally i took some almost white paint and  touched this to the model here and there on the   metal to act as reflections lastly the model was  looking sharp i went back with my puritan acrylic   paint and i touched up all of his little stitches  but they had shown through the oils pretty good   i don't know if they really needed a touch-up  i am enjoying this half of the painting process   way more than the first half the first half was  all base coating and really setting myself up for   this part of the painting process and this  i much prefer it's adding the last 20 that   really brings the model to life every brush stroke  is the final brush stroke and everything i'm doing   is just making it look that extra 110 awesome for  the tabletop time for some last minute upgrades i   took a tie brush with some long bristles and did  some micro scratches on the metal parts this made   them look nice and used i was feeling a little  spicy so i applied a little blood for the blood   god onto the racks of meat that are here and there  on the model and for the crews with larger eyes i   painted them with a dot of yellow i don't use that  much yellow in my painting maybe i should give it   a try more often i'm almost done with these guys  and i have to work on all their quills and i think   for this i'm going to be doing some batch painting  i don't usually do a lot of batch painting because   number one i don't like it and number two i  don't think it's actually all that helpful i   don't think batch painting is the right answer for  all situations especially with these crude i had   to do a lot of moving the model around refreshing  my paint brush and if you're doing those things   a lot you might as well just carefully focus on  each model one by one but with batch painting i   think it's gonna work perfectly for the quills  because i just pick up a model hold it upright   blast it with the dry brush move on pick up a  model hold it upright blast it with the dry brush   move on not refreshing my brush not you know  trying that hard to be perfect and i think that's   when batch painting is really going to help i  probably should have made more use of dry brushing   on this project but i am such a perfectionist i  did almost everything with proper highlighting   on the tip of each quilt i decided to have a spot  of tan so i base coated these with some brown to   make it look like a natural transition the quills  start out tan and as they grow longer the shafts   are black just like on real porcupines lastly the  bases i want a dry desolate looking environment   so pigments will be perfect i broke out this light  tan pigment powder and it worked okay but whatever   natural pigments they use in this stuff is very  light and didn't want to stick into the crevices   as much as other pigments so i added a few drops  of alcohol to each base to bind down the powders   and lastly the only thing left was to paint  the rim of the base brown i like brown rims for   more natural miniatures black for sci-fi brown  for fantasy and croot are a little bit of both the croot are tall bird-like aliens and although  they may look primitive they should not be   underestimated the crew are powerful warriors who  operate as mercenaries their savagery is for hire   by the major and minor factions of the galaxy the  crew's warrior society stems from their own unique   brand of evolution they have an unusual ability to  manipulate their own bodies by eating the flesh of   other creatures devouring orcs will build up their  muscle mass while devouring eldar will give them   enhanced reflexes although the crews are only a  tiny alien race amongst many in the galaxy they   are an interesting and unique group of monsters  these guys are sweet i love how they turned out   it wasn't too bad and it was lots of fun just  getting to highlight on top of the oil layer and   they really really turned out slick i can totally  see this becoming a new tool in my repertoire   and i'm not sure if i love the bases i've  been trying out this new pigment powder and   the grains of it are not as heavy as some of the  other pigment powders i've used and so it didn't   want to settle as much but i do like the dry  desolate look it gave me that is what i'm going   for but i think maybe down the line i might do  a little something to add a little more pizzazz   but i am super super satisfied with these roots  they are lovely i am very excited to get these   guys in the game the crew have many interesting  strategies where they can remain out of sight for   longer than most factions and the crude hounds are  currently the fastest models in the game of kill   team so the point was to try out oils and were  they effective yes were they a game changer maybe   i think the oils performed really really well but  it still took a long time to paint these 11 dudes   i will get better and faster with more practice  and i like the process simple base coating on   everything one thick coat of oils and then a final  highlight and i think there was plenty of things i   could have done to help the process along maybe a  gray or a white prime would have kept my colors a   little bit more vibrant so i wouldn't have had to  do as much highlighting and the crude are just a   little bit naturally desaturated maybe next time i  should try to paint some big old blue ultramarines   and see how that works out with oils also it was  kind of a challenge time wise with the drawing of   these models usually with acrylics i can just  sit down and power through a project even the   thickest acrylic washes only take a few minutes to  dry but oils it's gonna take some time i would say   that the oils i put on these guys were workably  dry in about five hours but really overnight to a   day is better acrylics do not like to go on top of  wet oils and some of the thickest spots on these   models are still just a little bit wet so i'll  probably give them a full week before i varnish   so should everyone run out and buy oils i  don't think so they can do some great work   but you really need to know what you're doing  i think that normal acrylics are so much more   forgiving available safer cleaner i think  people should start with regular acrylics   everything i did on these cruits i could have  achieved with normal acrylic washes instead   of oils the difference would be small i'm very  experienced with acrylics and i do prefer them   but i have found that i can do a little more with  oils and as my painting quality has increased i   have found that i have naturally moved away from  acrylic washes i just don't feel i need to reach   for them as often as i used to but that being said  i used acrylic washes for years and i got some of   my favorite paint jobs of all time using them if  you feel like you're ready to take the plunge into   oils i say go for it but if you think all this  looks like a big hassle and it's not for you you   definitely don't need it so what do you guys think  i want to know two things do you think oil paints   are exciting or do you think they're more trouble  than they're worth and should the crew be moved   out of the tao codex maybe like the inquisitors or  the assassins could be taken by any imperium army   maybe the crude mercenaries could be taken by any  xenos army let me know in the comments below but   now it's time for the real star of the show  this week's eob complete submissions we put   out a challenge to our community to send us before  and after photos of their recently finished models   to be immortalized in our videos if you want to  join in the fun you can submit a before and after   photo of your painted mini to our discord server  which you can find in the description below or   you can post it to instagram with the hashtag  eobcomplete without further ado let's look at   and get inspired by what the folks have finished  this week an assault on black reach space marine   captain by khan industries a thousand suns exalted  sorcerer by rotojo some inquisitor crusaders by   just cruisin a dwarf warden king by dark quail  a space marine captain by a bulldog legion   a blood angel with melt a gun by silly boy a doom  slayer by a birthday dragoon a primarist chaplain   on bike by t bagger a veteran guardsman kill team  by josh 5600 a custom black templar mandalorian   reaver by gremlins e2 an orc boomdaka snazzwagon  by the raging modeler a squad of napoleonic   soldiers by arthur some stormcast eternals by  c maniac a custom necron kill team by aomain   some urukai from lord of the rings by zed stymies  a squad of beast naga boys by falling bravely   a custom space marine captain by a big zoo a wolf  guard pack leader by emo wing 666 a 3d printed   tank by lazy man hobbies a skelly [ __ ] leader  by rockum a seraphon stegadon by matt alex65 a   cockatrice monster by caveman 73 an old warphead  miniature by the brave some thousand sun's rubric   marines buy not so spicy buns and a demi gorgon by  lance's fantasy gaming congratulations to everyone   for a job well done it's no small feat to get  paint on minis and you all should feel really   proud nothing gets the hobby juices flowing  like finishing a project and we all thank you   for sharing your work motivating us and the hobby  community to paint our plastic thanks for sharing

Channel: EonsOfBattle

Views: 104,395

Keywords: eonsofbattle, eons, of, battle, warhammer, warhammer 40k, warhammer 4000, 40k, video, game, play, fun, paint, learn, tutorial, diorama, painting, design, base, basing

Id: eRhLR8MFfHE

Length: 21min 16sec (1276 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 24 2021