iPhone 6s Plus Data Recovery from New Zealand (no power, hangs on passcode, liquid, prior attempt)

good morning everyone it's really really early in the morning hope you're all doing really well I'm gonna do a data recovery on an iPhone 6s that was sitting here from another data recovery company I've started this one early early in the morning because this one is going to need ultrasonic cleaned and after ultrasonic cleaning anything with an A 9 CPU it's time for some really really intense drying because if you've gotta noise Chur under the a9 CPU and you heat this thing up with a hot air gun the RAM tends to bulge up and like crumble into bits it's really it's a really really gnarly thing so let me show you why it is I'm gonna ultrasonic clean this one look at this iPhone 6's this thing has seen more action than Dirk Diggler now this customer I will say was completely open and honest about the prior rework attempt uh uh hmm so we've got some stuff missing up here we have a lot of carnage going on right here holy smokes look at this logic board you know what you do whenever you have trouble with these things starting up you just want to kind of sprinkle solder balls everywhere surely that was an accident right mm-hmm okay so like many prior rework attempts this one well I was gonna say this one is not giving me a good feeling but this down here kind of gives us like a no-brainer type situation where we've got this conductive sticker that's been pushed down here up against these caps I have gotten lucky on these before where they just looked hopeless and wound ups being something just as simple as pulling back a piece of metal off of ground like that I mean that does happen I don't have a real good feeling about this one this one looks really really bad so let's just kind of let's just peel this copper sticker back away from these components there we are and let's just peruse this thing shall we anybody want to place any bets as to what the actual problem was I can see that it was liquid damage you know we've got some corrosion down here around mand and I wonder why they cut the shield back right here they've got the oh I don't like seeing that they've got the shield cut all back here is what I don't like seeing I don't like seeing the bubbling in the solder around the p.m. I see how about the Y foot what in the heck looking here we got like this is a little straggler we'll probably want to get that out of there like right now and not later so I don't forget that it's there let's just go ahead and pull that out of there and also so it doesn't wind up floating around in my ultrasonic cleaner what does that a back light diode we can live without you if I accidentally break it okay so we've got that little straggler out of there and uh huh I wonder what is actually wrong with this one you know what I see what do I see what in the heck what is this oh this is an iPhone 6s this is a 6s plus all right well everybody let's just let's let's just all absorb how bad this board looks right now okay this thing looks d s-- custom it has been thoroughly wanked down here and I don't have a good feeling about this one these prior repair attempts they do not give me a good feeling now one thing that I do feel positive about I feel positive that everything that we have going on down here is not good but I just I cannot in good conscience with the way this thing looks you'll saw it all ran everywhere solder balls up here I just cannot in good conscience try to power this thing on I'm gonna have to clean it okay so the the baseband shield has not been removed the CPU shield has been removed and under and around the CPU say we have a cracked inductor here I believe that's for backlight we're not giving a crap about backlight I don't see much to be worried about we got one little ball here we don't have any squeezed edge back here along the backside this thing may just be recoverable if if it's not an error 78 phone do all that work to get them up and running and then they're toast all right so I'm just gonna go ahead and clean this up before we try to figure out what all is going on this is looking really bad and you know it was liquid damage to start with so I don't know that this has been ultrasonic cleaned like ever so my next step for this thing is going to be ultrasonic cleaning after that I'm gonna put it on a dryer and then I'm gonna get myself cleaned up for the day [Music] [Applause] all right we've got this thing cleaned up now my next step is gonna be to put this on a dryer I'm gonna set it to a temperature that's like just below a boiling point and I'm gonna slowly let this thing start to dry and what we're trying to do is make sure that all of the moisture and every bit of drop of everything that has been absorbed into any of the ICS has been dried if we don't do that like if I just move in and I start doing rework on this thing then what's gonna happen is that the RAM on this a nine CPU is gonna begin to bulge like a volcano and it erupts it just it breaks apart into nothingness and it's it's a really really nasty wound so let's try not to destroy this one before I move this off to the dryer let us have a look under the microscope at our nastiness it down here and you will see in a real short period of time what my ultrasonic cleaner did to this this is an ultrasonic cleaner that I spent 60 bucks on eBay I mean this is the very first cleaner that I ever bought and I use a mixture of Branson EC and distilled water and look with this cheap ultrasonic cleaner does to these boards I'm like I'm tickled shitless every time I use this thing so now this board has still sucked okay hmm okay now you can all laugh everybody laugh at Jason's cheap ultrasonic cleaner it left this garbage behind all right time to throw it out of here and get get rid of it okay so still a little manual cleanup to do here you know just everybody ignore this I'll probably just edit this out that way everybody will think that my ultrasonic cleaner is perfect that's what I'm gonna do hey at least it's coming off in like big clumps right ah and that one shot off into nothingness now I don't know where that ought to find that all right so this thing did in fact do a pretty dang good job of cleaning this up I noticed that we've got like a corrosion castle or something going on between these right hmm all right well the next step is to let this thing dry really good and right now I've got to tell you I'm pleased with what I see because it looks like there are some things that we might be able to just fix and get this thing back up and running but I'm really not sure yet until we try so I am going to get myself ready for the day I started this early in the morning so that it would have plenty of dry time and to start out with I'm just gonna put this board on here like this I dry boards in all kinds of crazy ways but it seems like I always wanted to putting them on a hot plate so we'll turn this on and make sure it's not set up above boiling temp and then I'm gonna sit this thing like way back in the back here out of my way and we're gonna let this thing bake for Oh I don't know a few hours half the day I have been known to leave them on there like all day long then put them in the Sun and then put them back on the hot plate you just you got to make sure these things are dry man you humidity is enough like you can't even have any humidity all right so I've had this set on 200c for a while I know it's not really 200 C because I couldn't leave my hands laying like this on 200 C this is something like just below boiling point so I'm gonna go ahead I'm gonna raise the temperature up just a little bit but not quite above boiling point we don't want any steaming going on underneath the RAM that's better man I feel better all right so this thing it has been sitting here is sort of steaming well not really steaming but baking and OH probably just under maybe right around boiling point and I am ever so paranoid about a bulging CPU so let's just I'm gonna raise the temperature up just a little bit more we're just kind of slowly trying to evaporate the water away all right we are back with this thing it has been sitting here drying for several hours and I'm ready to start poking around on it and see what we can figure out so here's what it looks like and all of its mm all of its marvelous glory let's take it off of my dryer and I've got this thing worked up to 220 C and I can tell you it feels damn hot but it's not 220 C and I'm happy to see that we have a nice flat a 9 CPU without any bubbles or anything on it so here we are under the microscope looking at our a 9 CPU and it is just top we have a nice flat CPU without wasting any more time let's look and see what was messed with on here before it was sent in we know that this was liquid damage but we don't know exactly dear god man what what it looks like there's something down in there next to that coil right am I wrong is there something down in the crack of the crevice there hopefully we can leave chestnut alone on this one all right so it looks like we've got a bunch of missing stuff here right I'm betting we've got some missing i2c stuff right I'll tell you what it looks like there's a blob of garbage there that my cleaner might not have gotten rid let's go ahead and mop that up shall we I know I know make fun of my $60 cleaner I will use it until it is dead geez what is that stuff whatever it is I'm like crunching it off the board I sort of don't blame the cleaner for not cleaning that up hmm well maybe we'll get lucky and like this is the only thing wrong with this one - right I won't get lucky I will not get lucky twice in a row on this deal no freakin way let's have a look at flex board view I'm gonna zoom in after we rotate the board to the same orientation that we have here and what do we have here fellers we have some thingies right oh listen to me listen to me trying to be confident I know better this one is not going to be successful this has bad news written all over it right so having a look at flex board view here we just want to look and see what all is missing from this board shall we now on our board we are missing things here as well as across here one of these things here this is going to be a missing this is going to be for Stockholm that is our 5413 just to the right of that on the bottom side we are missing our zero a zero six this is an i2c line for the front camera this one here is also an i2c line for the front camera we're not concerned about anything going to the front camera this is data now here we have also three other components one two three the first two are capacitors a cap on P p1 v 8l e 0 LD 0 6 and then we've got a 6 volt capacitor for LC and boost this is the this 6 volt cap here our c4 0 0 9 this is for image power but then the next one to the right we have i2c 0 underscore AP underscore SCO and we're on the other side we've got pp 1 v 8 so this is once again a pull-up resistor for i2c 0 now let's click PDF here and what that's gonna do for us is it's automatically gonna take me to the spot on the schematic where this resistor is so here is our 0 900 isn't this the same exact resistor that was in my last iPhone 6s video where I whined about not getting an i2c problem and that's all I got to do that is all I got to do I got to get on YouTube and say oh no I see Prabhu and they rain from the sky onto my bench and spew out money everywhere I'm just kidding I'm flat broke so looking at the schematic we can see that that is a 2k resistor 2.2 k blah blah blah blah don't I have a bunch of these in stock I'm like tired of pulling these off a donor boards what it Hall what do we got here fellas 2.2 K 1 0 0 flies yeah yeah let's use new components today on this my level of excitement is increasing for this phone because I'm finding things that are repairable so without getting too excited though let's just see what else is going on here do we have any obvious shorts there's some solder balls e stuff going in down there long chestnut on the outside of it right is there anything on flex board view that's going to ruin my day on the right side of that I see if this orientation so let's just kind of zoom out here and look at the the board view you know on the right side there we've got some VCC main we got some ground let's not worry about that too much let's leave that exactly like it is I tell you what we're gonna do I'm gonna power this thing on anybody else with me let's power it up so here we go we've got the power supply on the screen now if this is only an i2c problem we're gonna get 70 or 80 milliamps dead 70 or 80 milliamps dead 70 80 milliamps dead so let's hook the power supply up and we'll turn the supply on cautiously we are getting 10 milliamps of current that is splendid alright I'm gonna push the button to boot in 1 2 3 boot 70 milliamps dead well what 70 milliamps dead 70 dad I to see God's have shined upon me it looks to me like we got another phone with an i2c problem let's lay our hands on it shall we uh all right I'm gonna put a tiny bit of flux here this is the tip of the sharpest sharpest toothpicks that money can buy that I'm using to apply this block I'm gonna use some 6337 let it solder and we're just going to go ahead and turn up these hair pads we're not going to be worried about the front camera Z stuff there all right I'm gonna go ahead and leave these other two caps here alone for now let's just get what we need on here for the data line so we're gonna use one of our brand-spanking-new resistors this is a 2k resistor fresh off the strip here and we're gonna want to try to make this sit in here with the black side up now because I am still freakishly paranoid of moisture being between the RAM and the CPU I'm gonna solder this down here with an iron Oh Who am I kidding this thing is a long time dried still makes me paranoid though all right let's do let's do this just a little bit better I'm gonna add just a little bit more flux there we go and then I'm gonna use a like sort of a larger blob of solder here it's probably okay you know what it's not the prettiest thing in the world but I think I'm pretty well certain that it's going to make connection now before I get too much more irresponsible let us look at this blob of solder here look at this we've got a huge blob of solder next to this cap here and if we switch back over and we look at the board view we can see that this side of that cap is ground and this side of it is pp 5 b7 LCM a V DDH we can also see that if this phone powers up it has no shred of hope at getting image because it's got the chestnut 5 b7 output soldered smack-dab on to ground and it will not work we're gonna need a bigger iron all right I'm gonna turn on my 2027 here I'm gonna use my 2027 here and let's see if we can remove this wonky bridge I'm gonna need a lot more flux than that aren't I it's just a big little big ol Louis Rossman helping a flux on here and then let's bump it with the iron and may the chestnut gods be with me and prevent me from having to pull chestnut on this phone alright so I sort of made a little bit of a mess here I'm going to be trying to get this cap to sit back down on the board around there and it's getting pretty close right I got a better idea let's just remove that cap there we go well let's just get ready that's steaming pile of hog manure and let's just go ahead and turn these pads up here a smidgen huh looks like it's time for me to clean out my tip cleaner well it's easy to tell which ones are grown all right well let's go ahead and leave that alone just like it is before I attempt to power this on again really really needing to have a look at some of these other components because we've got some other stuff missing up here let's see we're missing our chef's nut CP cap here this thing is gone there's another one right next to it PB v b7 LCM Mason a VDD in that one is gone so we are missing some things here that pertain to image and touch and I do not think the chestnut supply will work properly with all of these big old caps missing so I'm not expecting to get good image but are we missing anymore I to see related stuff we confirmed that these were just for front camera stockholm stockholm stockholm i tell you what here is this is i2c 0 clock line whereas i2c 0 data line where is this created we can find that just by assuming in on chestnut so here is s CL here is SDA so let's see where that one leads us shall we now here we go right next to chestnut just above chestnut is the pull-up resistor for that that is our zero nine zero one and it is also a 2k resistor you're looking at the microscope we can see that that resistor has seen better days right yeah that thing looks like hell alright looks like hell but it's probably still okay let's go ahead and check to see if we get normal diode load readings on these lines shall we so I've got the meter set to diode mode I'm gonna put my red probe on ground and then I'm gonna put my black probe on I to see zero data line right here one point two that's not a good reading maybe I'm just not getting a good connection that's more like it Oh point three four so that's what we get on that one and then down here on this one what do we get here I don't remember which side is which I'll just check both sides we get a point three eight on that side all right point three eight yes point three eight on that side and then on this side we get a point two seven these are what I would consider to be pretty acceptable numbers we don't have anything really high we don't have anything really low now we're gonna try to turn it on all right I've got a USB cable lined up I'm ready for data transfer here I've got me an iPhone 6's housing ready I've got me an iPhone seven battery ready I've got me an iPhone 6s screen handy all right so first off we're gonna do this on DC power because I would really like to see every step of the way what is happening crap I've got me an iPhone 6s plus screen handy so first we're gonna be doing this on DC power because I want to see every step of the way of the boot process here exactly what happens so we'll hook up the power supply and I'm gonna prompt it to boot and one two three but ninety milliamps two hundred I don't expect to get an image but I do expect to get something that makes me feel like it's booting 290 I'll come on 106 c'mon 200 show me 300 come on show me yes this thing is booting but we still have no image right no image no image isn't that lovely so we have no image so we really can't say for sure that this thing's booting right in fact it seems to have kind of ran a little flat here hanging around at 170 milliamps can we see some activity please maybe it's just booting really slow yeah all right well I'll tell you one thing that is not and it is not 80 milliamps and looping so that's a good sign 160 I would just like to see any hint of activity like brainwaves you know drawing more power drawing less power 180 so we got a little more 250 we're gonna be in good shape here let's fix image so I'm gonna turn the power supply off let's see if we can get some image on this thing tell you what let's start right out here at the connector we know that chestnut is messed up I mean that's pretty well given but we also know that everything that we see there around chestnut you know it is water corrosion but it's also technician damaged so we're gonna run up the side of the display connector here the first pin that we want to check is PP 1v8 LCM con we're gonna be checking that in diode mode so with our red probe on ground and our black probe to do for Obon we'll check pp1 v8 LCM Khan it's a point to one that's acceptable let's go ahead and check the lines below it we get a point two two on what line is that on one of our abd lines that seems a little low a point two two on this chestnut a VD line let's check that in resistance mode I might I might just be a little nuts but let's check it anyways so in resistance mode I'll do my black probe on ground and then I'll use my red probe to do the probing and it was not our fourth one but the next one down right now 200k we're not too much worried about 200k so back over to diode mode so we know P p1 p8 LCM Khan was okay let's just go ahead and check these other ones point two seven two point three that's on one of our reverse biased lines so if we reverse our probes and check that line again rather than two point three we'll get more of a reasonable reading a point five eight will accept that I don't see anything too terribly crazy here there's a lot of other things that we can check just for giggles and shits let's check the back light lines here hmm no nothing too terribly out of whack at all what is terribly out of whack is the way that this area of the board right here looks this looks like hell what if I tip it up can we get and look under that chestnut I see is it as crooked on the board as it looks no I can't really say it's crooked on the board let's go ahead and check our power enable in our reset signals they're on the other side of the connector so with the red probe on ground and the black probe doing the probing we're going to just check up the right-hand side of the connector the first line is a clock line and we got our next line and then the third one up here this is chestnut power enable that's looking good and then we've got LCM reset the fourth one up also looking good this is going to be something funky going on with the driver here so let's just have a look at this driver area again we are missing tons of components we are missing this 5v7 cap we are missing this one b-1s DRAM cap which i don't look that's gonna hurt us or not we might need to get this back in here we are also missing a 6v zero LCM boost cap we're missing up here we're missing our chestnuts EP cap our CNC p cap I've heard it called chestnuts nut so there are things here that could be preventing chestnut from doing anything all right we know that this cap here has to do with the chestnut power supply we also know that this cap here as well as this missing cap and then these caps here which looks like they look like complete total hell it looks to me like this guy was having trouble getting this thing to get an image oh gosh we are gonna want to go ahead we are going to want to go ahead and take chestnut off the board because you these components look this bad I bet you that this guy was trying to keep from pulling chestnut off the board and the actual problem causing this thing to not get an image is most likely going to be right there under chestnut so I'm going to go ahead and remove chestnut from the board here I'm just gonna go I'm gonna I'm gonna grab it with tweezers and sort of pick it up off the table and let the whole board fall out from under it here we go I bet we got a missing 5v7 pad boy something doesn't look good under there let's uh I'm not okay I don't see what I thought that I would see I thought I would see a missing 5 b 7 pad but holy smokes look at the carnage it looks like it's got like good god man it looks like it has carbon under it right I mean this looks like oh man this looks like crap I'm excited I think we're gonna get the data off of this one I like when I start running into things that I'm familiar with you know there's a lot of times doing these repairs where you just you're you're starting out and it's like you've already had a half a dozen of them that start like this that don't end well this is not one of those I'm starting to run into things that make me feel confident that we're gonna get the data because we've got carnage under the display power management IC we have a technician that has been screwing with all things display power and I remove the chest that I see our display power our display power supply and I start running into things that he missed which means we are very likely going to get this to a point where we can get the data today alright let's get this thing cleaned up so we can see what's actually going on here hey I actually we managed to revive some of these pads sweet processor is still nice and flat mm-hm don't ask me why I'm paranoid about that alright so let's get to we know we're gonna need some more cabbage in here although they may not be entirely necessary I'm gonna sort of do this anyways so let's get some flux going I know I should've did this before I cleaned it whatever little bit a little more flux baby all right now let's see if we can find us a brand spanking new chestnut I see that's a little too liquid damaged you know if I can find me another 6s plus that'll be really handy right there's a 6s plus severely liquid damaged no that's just a 6 plus okay I'm lowering my standards and now I will settle for anything that's last chestnut on the board hmm the 6 plus class chestnut let's use that one there we go well let's go ahead and get some new balls on it I used to be more responsible and kept a whole bunch of these in stock but then I just how Lord but then I stopped yeah I just don't I hardly ever ever ever have to use a chestnut I see because I just don't hardly get this type of thing anymore I get the iPhone 7s that won't boot and other screwy stuff that is Major time pits that doesn't often end in success this is going to end in successful let's grab us a bowling stencil here shoes an iPhone 6 something or other let's get us a little blob of soda solder a blob of saw satyr let's say it is is is the best I can I will say solder there we go let's smooth out our solder and let's start warming this baby up shall we I think I'm about ten minutes away from here we go baby let's have a good look at it's balls that one looks pretty well these balls look pretty symmetrical and centered I probably don't need to do my rewarming thing but I'm gonna go ahead and do it anyways there we go now let's make sure that we can see its dot oh yeah and I nice pretty distinguishable dot and there we have us a chestnut I see that is beautiful there we go so we've got our customers board I'm gonna sit this chestnut I see right here right about where we need it and then what do I have here in the way of brand-spanking-new caps 6.3 volts 2 point 2 micro farad what is the value of these caps shall we look and see because we're missing some here that I feel like we should have okay so we're missing this one here it is a 5 V 7 cap see 4004 that is a 10 micro farad 10 volt cap and what else were we missing here we are missing our chestnuts nut cap right here that is also a 10 micro farad cap so that's kind of easy the one right next to it that is a five feet seven cap and there is just nothing left of that pad let's plan on leaving that one out and then right here we're missing this 6v zero boost cap uh what size is that one this is C four thousand and seven and if we have a look at the schematic see four thousand and seven is also a 10 volt 10 micro farad cap Thank You Apple for making this easy thank you alright so for these donor components I'm gonna turn to an iPhone 7 board so here's our donor board oh look this one had chestnut on it and I could have just got all the whole like I could have gotten the whole mess right here so we're gonna grab this cap here and this cap here at the very least and let's see while we're at it can we at least snag one more 10 volt 10 microfarad cap from somewhere ok so just on the other side we can grab one on the other side there those are overfilled but that's going to be ok so let's go ahead we're just gonna grab all the caps that we need right now I'm gonna begin warming this up with hot air there's one tool well almost blew it away and three there we go so now we have three ten volt 10 microfarad caps so going back to the customers board there is our fresh chestnut I see let's have one more look at flex board view to get the orientation so pin one on this chestnut I see is going to be facing my bottom right our bottom right we're gonna take the little dot and you can see one side of that corner that chip has that little dot we're going to place that at this direction here on the board let's add a tiny bit more flux so the first thing that goes down here is going to be chestnut here we go let's chestnut on the board let's start putting these caps down I'm thankful that they're all the same value one tool why I had to get that one really hot I think it's still got some lead-free on one side yeah it's okay we don't need this to survive drops we just needed to survive a single data transfer alright so looking back at the board view here just to sort of verify where we're at the next cap that I am planning on putting in is C 4004 that is another one of these five B seven caps and let's do it so we'll grab our one remaining donor cap and we're gonna slap that sucker right there there we go alright so we have six chestnut we've put some caps back on the board we fixed a dead i2c line let's see if we can get the data so here we are I got a housing lined up and ready I've got a battery lined up and ready let's get this thing hooked up to a screen and power supply and see if we can start getting an image I think we're getting ready to be successful let's turn the power supply on ten amps that's a good sign we're gonna press the button to boot and one two three ninety millions all right we want to see this thing boot up we want to see that it has working touch and then I'm gonna go for data holding 300 milliamps on the supply did this mofo lock up at the Apple logo no no no no no no no we'll just keep waiting how about that steady drawing 340 milliamps well we're starting to see some activity half an amp six hundred milliamps I'm just glad it's not sitting here dead whoa that's pretty significant current 1.1 amps there I seen any minute fellers oh yes all right lock screen we have touch touch yes mmm baby let's go ahead and turn the power supply off and hmm that housing is not gonna do me any good is it well apparently I don't have a 6s Plus housing handy so let's grab us a dock flex let's go for the data I'm going to fold the screen back disconnect the DC supply let's get us a doctor Lex hooked up battery hooked up and now we will prompt this to boot via USB there we go see if we get an Apple logo yeah hey Apple logo have a logo all right while this thing sits here and takes its sweet time to boot I'm gonna get iTunes opened up come on baby now we know it took forever to boot uh-huh I knew it was too good to be true Oh for the love of all things holy this thing is locking up whenever you put in the last digit of the passcode okay I have not ran into this on the iPhone 6s yet but I have ran into this frequently on the iPhone 10 where they get separation between the board haves and if any of the in XP lines are hosing the near-field communication chip you wind up in this situation where the phone locks up when entering the last digit of the passcode could it be the same thing on the iPhone 6s remember we do have like all kinds of carnage on the bottom of the board let's have a look and it's back to the passcode screen again so okay let's disconnect our dock flex disconnect the battery and let's have a look at this board again we need to be concerned about oh gosh all things Stockholm right how many things could be wrong here that would cause this in XP our near-field communication stuff to be hosed how many things could be causing this a lot right let's just get in here and consider some things one thing that I do have going for me is that laying right next to me I have another iPhone 6s plus board so if I look at this same area of the board I can compare really quickly I can tell that this component down here this was originally in no stuff so that's not supposed to be there we've got this thing here that was sort of in the line of fire of all this liquid down in there we've got two components we still have two components we determined that these two resistors that are missing are for the front camera and then what was this one back here so we've got these tubes resistant or they hey hey these two resistors missing in the one back here so yeah this is some sort of a Stockholm II thing we've got two front camera resistors here and then right here our 5314 RF this is labeled up for Stockholm and you can see that these things are going right here to this NXP chip this might actually be what it is see what that is on the schematic so our 5314 that is in a position right here it says that it is a zero ohm resistor so we can pretty well just replace that with a wire that's what I'm going to do honestly I think it's more likely to be liquid having gotten under the nxp I see itself we've got this component down here missing but that sure looks to me like it's going to be a capacitor yeah C 2113 that is a capacitor on a 3 v-0 Mesa line what about this coil here Stockholm BAU 0 TX 2 okay so this looks like a very mission-critical coil for the purpose of Stockholm working properly what does ours look like on our board yeah it looks like total crap but it doesn't look like it's disconnected alright I'll just check it for continuity real quick couldn't hurt for this one let's go ahead and use diode mode we should pretty well get a zero point zero zero across it so I'll put one probe on one side of it and put one probe on the other side of it we're getting in zero zero so that thing you know it could be melted internally but it's definitely not blown so hmm do you think it is I mean do you think it is this resistor right here missing let's just throw it on there it is on my donor boards it looks it looks like it's important let's get a little more flux on there I could I put flux on this board 500 times today all right let's install us a nice it's your ohm resistor there we go that looks like it's about zero ohms right it don't have to be exactly zero ohms you know we just need to get it kind of close and I'd say that's pretty close to zero ohms there we go all right well without skipping a beat let's get it hooked right back up and ready for a data transfer although I don't think we're going to get data transfer this time around but that is an obviously missing component that does something hooray for our doc flex a little battery action and now we pray to the near field communication gods that this phone will let us install a passcode and recover the data for somebody all the way to New Zealand about that right all right this phone should be booting while I'm over here gloating and blowing off air from my lungs any moment all right last digit oh it is working now huh now it's gonna let me enter the passcode that is actually it holy smokes it's actually working it was a freaking resistor holy crap all right well in that case I've got an incorrect passcode which oh that's because our I didn't I didn't put in the passcode I put in the job number so it'll freeze on the last digit of the passcode regardless if the passcode is correct or not so let's enter the correct passcode here we go last digit that is the incorrect passcode oh no no no no no no all right here we go I am on I think my third passcode I'm hoping this one works all right here we go last digit yes we've got it unlocked now it's time for iTunes baby let's get a backup on this phone right away all right we're gonna say continue on iTunes we're gonna say trust on the phone all right we've said trust to iTunes come on baby come on baby you're not gonna reboot you're not gonna mess up you're gonna give my customer the backup they deserve right oh no you're not this backup is encrypted okay well here's what we're gonna do in this case I'm gonna go ahead and smack the backup Now button and I'm gonna go ahead and let this thing grab it encrypted backup you know it looks like we've got a hundred and twenty gig phone that is like 60% of the way fool so here is what I'm gonna do on this one they had a really hard time coming up with the passcode I think this is like maybe the third passcode that actually worked so I don't have a lot of faith that they're gonna know what the encryption passcode is so after I get this encrypted backup I'm gonna proceed like I have no backup whatsoever and the next thing I'm gonna do is go ahead and transfer the entire camera roll off of this phone just in case they don't know what this encryption passcode is and that's that's pretty well lit guys I am gonna go ahead and call it into this video I'm not gonna cover any of the software process because we're already at an hour long and you know I started on this phone at around 6 o'clock this morning and it's about 5:30 in the evenings so guys I really thank you all for watching I appreciate it if you if you liked the video please click the thumbs up button if you're new here and you have not subscribed yet please subscribe because YouTube's telling me not enough people are subscribing and that's it for now guys thanks for watching I'll see you soon

Channel: STS Telecom

Views: 371,340

Keywords: electronics, repair, shop, iphone, logic, board, microscope, microsoldering, pcb, hot, air, smd, hakko, phone, iphone 6s plus, data, recovery, data recovery, liquid damage, new zealand, i2c0, locks up entering passcode, last digit, passcode, locks, hangs, 80ma, loop

Id: RyAt1-_X9fs

Length: 53min 32sec (3212 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 05 2020