Insulating Between & Under Rafters | Loft Conversion Project 4.0

I welcome back to the Locke project this one's going to be all about fixing the insulation [Music] if you haven't seen our video that made maybe two years ago on how to spit insulation board and I'll put a link to that below so it's quite handy way of just showing how we went about cutting & fitting the insulation nice and snug in between all of our rafters and the stud work and I will recap that a little bit in this video because some of the footage that I've got from Batmen shows a little bit of that anyway so the whole thinking behind the insulation for this project is at between of the low rafters and there's other ways of doing things you could create a warm roof which is when you insulate over the top of the rafters and then counter button but because this is kind of we're working on the inside we haven't got scaffolding up we haven't reroute yet which needs to happen but not you have we're trying to do everything on the inside that meant bringing out the Rosses like we saw in the last video so to make them slightly deeper and then we went about insulating so we ordered our insulation in the form of rigid sheet insulation and this is the foil face version so I can't remember how we picked up at the time but it was well over what we needed in 100 mil maybe 25 sheets and then maybe 20 or so of the 50 mils and so between those two hopefully we had enough to do the whole lot project and also out in these we ended up with enough of a hundred mil to do a nice insulated deck to insulate the ceilings of below so for plenty of footage of us going in so I'll show you that now and then I'll go into a little bit more detail of why we came up or why we went with this system so with all the rafters now batten down to give the extra depth of the insulation we start cutting & fitting all the hundred mil board they're measuring top and bottom there's a bit of variation in our rafters and then cutting them nice and square and I really wanted a tight friction fit here so I'm just sliding a saw down the side there getting them nice and snug and they'll hold in themselves and we just want to make sure they don't go up beyond the rough so now we're actually a couple years later and we put the project on hold the amount trying to piece together what we haven't finished and also what insulation we had fitted that are then dropped down over the two summers where Timbers of moose so we're trying to match up based on old photos that we've taken and some old video footage which ones go where because we didn't really want to cut and fit more and end up with wastage so managed to match most up and then we were able to cut the remaining boards that we're still missing so we've also got a hundred mil of insulation between the subs at the bottom of the slope ceiling and the whole of this will be lined with 50 mil of insulation underneath and I'm just doing this all now so onto the 50 mil between these steps so I'm going to sort of batten on the back of them all the way along so that our insulation is stiff against it and weights fall out the other side so I'll do that now and then hopefully we'll be pretty much there with this room [Music] then there was a little bit of insulation to put around the hatches we cut into the loft space before we could get on with the rest of the insulation so at this point we decided we really needed a good idea it was so much dust off cuts and also furniture that was still in the room that we were working around it was just a good chance to get all of that out and then basically work out what insulation we had left to make sure we could cut in the most efficient ways so that we didn't run out so when putting the 50 mil of insulation over the studs I wanted to make sure I could get right up to the same work so chips it away here at this point we didn't realize we were going to strip all the plaster so a little channel and then I could slop the insulation into that like I said this is around the hatch so we will line out that and make a nice line doorway and then build an insulated door to fit into it and these are all being fitted up with 75 mil drywall screws and little thin washers which fill in nicely and clamp it to the Timbers I'm just putting up a final batten here on the end wall or the middle hall of the house so it was got something to fix too especially when we come to use the plaster board so the way I started was to do the strip top of the ridge first and that I could work down from there and anywhere that there was a junction between two boards on a on two different angles I sprayed a bead of expanding foam in and then put the next board in just to seal up any select cavity that would be left [Music] so this this part of the installation is so much quicker than cutting between rafters it's pretty much full sheet - a little bit of trimming to fit our old old sort of centers there cutting them to length and we can get pretty much four boards on each side of the roof [Music] we have prepped up there with the screws and the washers I just stick them in a bit of insulation so they're ready to grab if you working with two people it's absolutely much easier but I was trying to thing for one-handed so when you've got the foil face like this that actors are vapor barrier but you've got joins in between the boards now we're going to take that with the foil tape which makes it continuous the nice thing about using this stuff rather than insulated plaster board is that the joins between each plaster board eight sheets of plaster board or drywall don't carry on through the first layer of insulation ie if we've got 50 mil of insulation bonded supply stable which every summer to join that join goes right through to where the rafter is so we're a cold rafter might be whereas if you do it this way we're going to either screw to fix our plaster board onto here where you could use an adhesive or a vertical surface or you can actually run battens down so like counter bathrooms on the inside of here and then fix your boards to that that gives you you know a nice little cavity there which on the warm side and for that cavity you can run all your services in there your cabling and you haven't got to bring it through the insulation and punch it through your face of area what we've decided to do like I said is just to take up all these and we'll fix our plaster board over the top of the insulation which it works out cheaper than using the insulated class cables and then on the walls we're going to batten down so we can run our cabling through see here where we've left a new ass shift for these valence windows and they're going to be quite a lot bigger than the old nice kind of acrylic perspex ones we've got there that's it looking forward to getting mazing and the other one is out here and there's a little bit of change of thought here so we decided we're actually going to take down this wall now that might be because funding and I are thinking what's the best way to approach it this wall here we're going to have storage behind it just cold loft storage we just slide them out we're going to take that mixer take out that insulation and continue it out into the eaves by maybe maybe another 1,200 smells so so quite far into these which gives us a really deep insulated cupboard with you know the same temperature as the room rather than having a loft so all of the office that's going to be right up under there with some integrated storage and drawers and shelves and stuff so it will work but I think that's gonna be a nice little sort of added bonus to this room and increase the size but quite a lot now also release the sternum and here we've got our hatch little insulators hatch there going into that loft space here's a quick little fixing for using for the insulation then smelted thing is pending on how to fix your insulation is and as we use in 50ml installations over the top we are using 17 or 25 mil so five mil screws drywall through and the washers you see me using are these little flat plate or disks and you can find them pretty cheap on eBay and the coop need for the tile backerboard and you can forget put it straight through it ready and then you push it straight in the script through that gives us a good 25 mil 1-inch into the timber which is perfectly adequate for that for holding those up will then go over again with some longer screws when we picked up the plaster board another way to do it would be to you to counter battens and they would kind of replace the need for this metal washer so you put those running over each rafter to clamp it up if this is what they look like when they're when they're in they really do pull it in you have to make sure you don't over tighten it to you no damage to the soil that is pretty hard to do they kind of pull in nice and nice and tight and that gives a really solid solid finish we can then take up any holes and the gaps all of gaps of the joints between the boards and then we'll fix our last award over here so that's about 95% of the insulation done a little bit to finish on the landing but the next job will be to get the storage and the little doorways into the loft all finished and then get on sitting and Bayliss windows so please like share and subscribe if you enjoyed the video I remember if you can do it yourself and we'll see you next time

Channel: The Restoration Couple

Views: 682,663

Rating: 4.7779965 out of 5

Keywords: loft conversion, rafters, attic, insulating, xps, kingspan, celotex, foil, how to, diy, vapour barrier, home, house, thermal, conversion, home improvement

Id: DFO-asmyrP8

Length: 11min 34sec (694 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 03 2017