- For a standing seam metal roof, the trim that goes around
the perimeter of a building, is important because it takes
a lot of the uplift forces from wind and extreme weather. Today, we're learning how to install eaves, rakes and valleys. (upbeat music) What's up guys, welcome to
The Metal Roofing Channel, I'm Thad Barnette. Make sure you subscribe if you're new, we release metal roofing and metal construction content
every Monday and Wednesday. Well, after you dry in a roof, the next step is to install perimeter trim
like eaves and rakes. Matt Lane from Metal
Construction Solutions and Installations, is going to demonstrate how we installed those flashings on Adam Mozella's home project. He started by cutting back
the excess underliner material to have a clean area to install the eaves. The eave flashing, which
Matt refers to in this video as drip edge, is screw down with number 10
one-inch pancake head screws. (drill machine drilling) All the joints are caulked and sealed up. (drill machine drilling)
(upbeat music) - Coming off the bottom here, we wanna tab up the sidewall, that way we'll put this flashing on. Even the gable end and
eave trims and everything, we're gonna make sure they're shingled, that ways water runs down, you don't have water running
inside for any extra risk. We're gonna get that water,
as far away from the building, you know, down the walls as we can. (upbeat music) (drill machine drilling) - Once the eave metal is in place, it's time to take a look at the rake or gable under the roof. For Adam's house, he chose a foldover gable
detail instead of a box gable. (drill machine drilling) - Okay, so we've finished our drying on Adam's building here, now we're starting to run
our perimeter flashing. This flashing is pretty simple,
but it's really important. Sheffield Metals has a
six-inch screw pattern and the reason it's so important, I mean, this is the edge of your building, this is where your wind
uplift is mainly gonna occur and if you skimp on this fastening, if you're running a lot of screws and they're stripping out, you need to make sure that's correct, 'cause this is what, here is what is gonna hold down your roof in the long run when you get a good storm. This type of flashing has a cleat. The panel's gonna go on, it's gonna get wrapped right
around this flashing here and it's gonna hook all
the way up and down. And then the same thing, we've got a piece here
started on the eave. Every panel is gonna get cleated and hooked onto that eave. The top of the panel gets hard fastened, so that we have expansion and contraction here, free to move. This flashing in here,
we're running up now, running up the rake, we're gonna tie in, up
here to this other rake with a nice clean transition. So, one side of the building
comes into the other, the panels fasten up tight there, the ridge cap will come over and that'll be weather tight. (upbeat music) - At the peak of the ridge, Matt fabricates a tab
on one rake flashing, to lap over the top of
the second rake flashing. (drill machine drilling)
- We're having some issues up on this part of the ridge. For some reason, a little bit
of the lumber in the facia, isn't grabbing as it should, so we've put a few extra screws in here. Part of Sheffield Metals warranty details, is a starter strip ice
and water shield cover and all the fasteners on the eaves and on the rakes like this, just to make sure that
these things are sealed and just in case there's any holes, we'll go through and we'll caulk and seal everything that we've got. It's not good, but you do
have areas that we've missed. We've made sure we've gotten the screws in that we need for our uplift but we wanna make sure
those are weathered in, so we're gonna run a strip of ice and water shield up and over all of this, before that panel gets
covered and cleated in. Something I didn't mention before, was these screws. It's really important that they go in flat and you'll see it later too
when we're putting clips in. You don't want these
screws going in sideways that panel be sticking up and they can tell a graph
through that panel pretty well. So we're just gonna keep flashing in our perimeters to make sure everything's
water tight around. And then after that we will
start setting our valleys. So much like a shingle you know, you always wanna keep things no working in a water shedding manner, every layer, it just
serves as extra protection. You don't wanna do it backwards and have a problem in
the future because of it, so just take the time, make
sure we're shedding water with everything we do. It just helps in the long run. - Another thing to remember
about a flashing perimeter. When you're putting the
ice and water shield down, you wanna make sure that
you have a large enough lap and end lap at the end
of each little section of ice and water. For Sheffield Metals, that's six inches at an end lab for weather-tight warranty details. - Gonna grab the piece
up here from the ridge. All the way down and then
here when it laps over at the edge, we're gonna
leave six inches of an end lap and we're always gonna remember
the watershed principles that Matt was talking about earlier. This piece of ice and water
shield is gonna go over top the eave section here. - At the same time
perimeter flashing goes on, Matt installs the valley metal, so the roof is ready to
start accepting panels. He first makes a rough cut in the valley and traces a line on the underside of the metal for an exact cut. Don't forget to add one inch to that line for your hand. That extra inch allows you to bend over the metal and slide it
into the eave tramp. (upbeat music) - So we're working on the valley. We're hemming things over in order to cleat our eave piece here. You really don't wanna do
a lot of bend at one time, you wanna take it slow, otherwise you'll end up
with a bunch of creases in the surface of your metal. It wouldn't damage the product as far as, you know functionability works, but you know it wouldn't
look pretty in the end so, we want a product that works and one that looks great too. You don't wanna leave a spot open, for bees or critters, so we're gonna tab these over, close this valley off, so
it's all nice and clean. So before we started this valley, we ran a chalk line up the middle, to make sure everything's
running straight, we run up to the peak. We ran one up the other valley. We also coordinated that with our ridge to make sure everything's
tidy and clean at the top. So hopefully when we throw our valleys on, we'll have very little adjustment to do, when we're finished - As you go up the roof, the valley laps need
to be 12 inches minimum with two rows of sealant,
four inches up from the lab. An offset cleat is added
with butyl tape underneath and screws every four inches on center. (upbeat music) - Thanks for checking
this video out today. Make sure you stay tuned for the next part of our installation series, where we start putting
panels on the house. There's a ton more to come
including pipe penetrations, a chimney and a vented ridge. So subscribe here to The Metal Roofing Channel
so you won't miss it. Comment down below if
you have any questions or if there's anything you'd
like us to cover in the future and as always I'm Thad Barnett and we'll catch you next time.
