Installing a water separating fuel filter in a boat

hey they didn't go see you here today's video is about adding a water separating fuel filter to an upward motor the fuel filter I'm going to be adding is Easterner brand it lists itself as being I'll show you the part number there it lists itself as being a replacement for a mercury part which is there so despite being sold as a replacement mercury part obviously all our boards use the same fuel have the same requirements to not have water in the fuel so I've got no reservations about putting this onto this Honda motor the fuel hose diameter really is about the only consideration when you're putting one of these in I'll quickly go through what comes with a kit I refuse to call it an unboxing this is the filter the water separating filter this is a replaceable item so this is the sort of the the service item that you would replace so these are purchasable separately then you've got the bowl in the bottom this bowl is where the water collects and where you can drain the water from then you've got the head of the unit that you mount to the boat and the bowl screws on the bottom here then here you have a variety of inlets outlets and blanking plates these fuel filters need to be mounted between the primer bulb and the tank itself obviously the place to mount these is somewhere between the fuel tank itself or the motor so I'm going to go to I'm actually thinking this brace is a really good place for me to do it because if I put it on the transom itself I think I'm going to get cables and pipes and things in the way I obviously don't want to go anywhere through the hull if I can avoid it because then I'm probably looking at buildings sort of mounting plate or at least heavily waterproofing those the holes are drilling the hole although up at this height can't really complain is already just holes all through this the previous owners drilled a hole to put ropes along the gunnel or something not quite sure do I think in there anyway so the thing about this brace is it's roughly the right vicinity you know I've got the fuel tank down here's my right and the engine obviously in my left I can drill right through this brace I can get some bolts and nuts on the back of here and I'm not actually going through the hole anywhere it also is in a position where if I drain the water I can get a container underneath the fuel filter to capture the water that I drain and if there's any spillage it just goes into the bilge water so I think this is a pretty good position so what I need to look at here I'm just going to go and have a look what these holes through these are the two holes and then amount I think they look about prob about six millimeter bolts so I'll go and measure this I'll find some suitable bolts and we'll just mount this head section first it's now about three hours later and I've realized these are eight mil bolts not six mil bolts it didn't take me that all three hours to figure that out I also went and had some Chinese I'm going to position this mounting top plate onto the support here so I'll just rest it here and Mark the two bolt hole locations drill those and then we'll melt it up I'm just going to put a little bit this jhalak in the aluminium holes now because I've got to going to use stainless steel fasteners and I don't want the stainless steel reacting with the aluminium on these bolts I'm just going to use one of these spring washers just to stop the nut coming undone this top plate mounted releases really now some I'm happy with out there I'm now going to start putting in these Barb's and the blanking plugs this particular filter supports two outboards two tanks etc or in this case wearing a single so I'm just using one in one out and I'm blanking off the other in and out because this fuel filter has two in and two out on it I need two blank two of them off which one's your blank off is entirely up to you I could have it coming in this input out this output and blank these two off or I can blank these two and have it coming in here and out here these ones send it to the edge of the filter and then these ones come from the center so whichever way it passes through the filter in my instance I've decided I'm going to blank off these two and have the fuel coming in here the line for my fuel tank is going to come from under the seat so it could go to here and then travel across and head out this way but I think by keeping all the hoses on this inboard side I'm going to keep them all protected so I'm going to put both plugs on this outboard side and keep all the hoses this side obviously it's easiest for me to use this output because at least then it's heading towards the outboard rather than a purely back as well before I put these blanking plugs in or these barbs for that matter I'm going to put some of this Permatex thread sealer on this particular thread sealer is fuel resistant so it won't have any trouble working on this filter I don't need to cover the threads I'm just going to put some around the lower threads and then wind it in once I've got these all started I'll go ahead and tighten them up the other reason for not putting thread sealer all the way down these is because they're tapered fittings so they will stop winding in before that actually bottom doubt the trick here is to start developing a sense and this is something I think is really important also mechanical things of when something's starting to feel tight starting to feel quite snug but you're not cranking it to the point of splitting it or snapping it or whatever and I know that's quite tricky to sort of get across in a video I guess all I'm saying is I start really sort of focusing on what you're feeling through a spanner and by focusing on that and actually sort of paying attention to how it feels you'll over time you'll start to build up a sort of a muscle memory of what is quite a good a good torque to have on it torque specs are great obviously where it's critical but in this sub situation they're not going to give you torque specs for it so just make sure it's stained it feels snug bu not to the point of really using muscle and you're going to literally either crack the fitting or strip the head off the bolt the next thing to do is assemble the rest of this filter the filter component goes obviously sort of writing side up there's an o-ring on this side and plastic on this side the plastic side goes down this o-ring I'm also just going to put a little smooth of and once they're on they just screw up or Popeyes is once again tight enough so the o-rings well and truly bedded and not going to leak but you don't have to use all your strength the final piece of the puzzle is this clear bowl that goes at the bottom of the filter this way you can see any water's in the fuel because the water will sink to the bottom and it's got its own a ring as well okay so now I'm going to cut a fuel line and put this fuel filter in a circuit I'm going to position this fuel filter between the priming bulb and the fuel tank so I'm going to go fuel tank filter filter priming bulb priming bulb outboard with the fuel line coming out of here I want the bulb to be somewhere accessible you know I don't want to sort of have to lean right down so I want to be a slap to do that and I also need enough slack so as the outboard turns port and starboard that fuel line there it goes taut or never gets kinked to restrict the fuel flow I've got my hose clamp on this fuel line and I'm just going to press it onto the barb all the way slide that place clamp up over the bow go bad just talking it up once again firm enough not to leak not so firm that you start cutting into the hose good of a theme is new so this is what I've got on the output side of the fuel filter I've got a couple of feet going to the primer bulb and then probably another couple of feet going to the outboard plenty of slack for the outboard to turn around and gives me plenty of access to to operate just this primer Bowl without having to reach right down into the transom on the inlet side I've got probably a couple of metres that way I can position the fuel tank River on the boat and I can also pull the fuel tank out onto the dock to refill it without disconnecting the fuel hose all that's hooked up now so I'll grab the camera and I'll show you around so here's my fuel line from the tank just goes down and under the seat over here it comes to the input side then goes out the output side the other two inputs and outputs are blanked off and self-portrait comes along here to the priming valve which obviously has to go in the right orientation to pump and then a couple more feet here into the outboard and that's it so it's pretty simple job what I'll do now is just start priming this up it's a pretty big filter so I can take awhile to prime with the bowl once you've got to install them it's empty so if you want to make that a little bit easier you can actually fill this with fuel fresh fuel before you start priming now the fuel bulbs gone firm and it's fully primed I'm just going to wheel the boat outside and we're gonna start it up and just check for fuel leaks as you can hopefully see there there weren't any obvious fuel legs the next step would be now to take it for a bit of a run on the water which I'll be doing in a few weeks and then just running along at a slightly higher throttle you know get to a mid throttle range have somebody driving while you just have a quick look at the back and inspect the fittings just to make sure none of them start leaking with higher fuel pressure so there quite a few advantages to these sorts of fuel filters one is there's just a bigger capacity to them to filter junk out of the fuel compared to those little fuel filters you see under the cowling also they hold more water so even though the ones under the cowling often will be of a water separating nature the water will sink to the bottom they can only hold 20 mils of water whereas these can hold probably 200 mils also they give you a lot of visibility of the fuel you're running because you've got that clear Bowl you can see the fuel readily you can check it more often and you can see for clarity where the water in the bottom and once again it means you can drain that water out without even having to open the cowling so you're more likely to actually do it to notice it so I think they're a really good thing to install as you can see it wasn't a big job pretty straightforward I think the only real trick so just make sure you you don't have any leaks so use the the thread seal and a fuel safe thread sealant use high-quality stainless steel hose clamps the quality of the fuel line you use is also really important that smooth grey fuel line that you see in those pre-made hoses with the bulb and the fittings on the end isn't very UV resistant it tends to go very brittle and quite stiff very quickly if it's left in the Sun and let's be honest most boats spend a lot of time in the Sun well thanks for watching I think this is a pretty simple DIY job obviously it's important to get certain things right because you don't want fuel links but it's definitely within the realm of most people to get this installed I think it's a really good upgrade to do for your boat if you don't have one of these fuel filters in because it doesn't matter how good motor is no motor runs well on bad fuel or with water in it whatever so it's really one of those things that I think is just a great insurance policy against something going wrong any upgrades you can do that increases your chances of you know making at home under your own steam instead of getting towed in by someone as has got to be well worth the the expense and the time to do it alright well thanks again take care I hope you enjoyed if you did please rate comment subscribe and I'll talk to your stamps here

Channel: Dangar Marine

Views: 230,041

Rating: 4.8713193 out of 5

Keywords: boat, marine, outboard motor, fix, repair, water separating fuel filter, fuel filter, outboard, water separating

Id: L4FnuY989w0

Length: 13min 32sec (812 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 29 2016