SUBTITLE: Hessischer Rundfunk Montenegro is still considered an insider tip. We had no idea what to expect on our journey through the small Balkan country. With its diverse landscapes, pretty little towns, the Adriatic coast and its incredible nature , it immediately cast a spell over us. We are Nina and Jonas and plunge into the adventure of Montenegro. I still have no idea how to get up there, but I'll be fine. In the mountains we go to our limits. 1000 meters of altitude, not just 600. That's 40 percent more than planned. We meet such warm-hearted people and learn a lot about love along the way. I proposed to my wife here. - What? I fall in love with this country and the delicious food. And we experience an adrenaline rush on and above the Tara River. Let's start in the old town of Bar. Here we meet Marko. He wants to show us the ruined city. Is this your favorite place in Montenegro? Yes, in any case. I am a native of the city here. For me this is not the most beautiful place in Montenegro, but in the world. I learned German mainly from television. I'm a so-called TV kid, we have a lot of those around here. The children watched cartoons because there were hardly any channels in Montenegro. What was your favorite thing to watch? - Dragon Ball, Digimon and stuff like that. After the anime series in my childhood, I studied German. Now he works as a tour guide. There is a former church dedicated to Saint Nicholas. At the time of the Muslims, ie the Ottomans, who came here, the churches were converted into mosques. A layer of mortar was placed over the frescoes, and a minaret instead of a bell tower: the church became a mosque. That was difficult for the people over the centuries, but that's nice today, because something of every culture has remained here. That makes our state much richer today. The various influences can be felt in the ruined city. Also in Bar itself we find the modern buildings of the three religions of Montenegro. The nice thing is that we all live together, that we're just happy to help each other. The nice thing is that you visit each other on public holidays. There's always something to celebrate. Oh, nice. How many holidays do you have then? The Orthodox Easter and Christmas are mostly celebrated after the Catholic, then both are celebrated. I drive to the neighbor who to me. Then there is the friend who is a Muslim. I drive to him when he has the Festival of Sacrifice or Ramadan. It's nice to always have something to celebrate. It could be so easy. We drive inland to Lake Skadar, also called Lake Skadar. Water as far as the eye can see. The lake is the largest inland body of water in the Balkans. The border with Albania runs through it. It's warm as a bathtub. But looks very inviting. Two thirds of the lake belong to Montenegro, one third to Albania. Go on a boat trip with Marko. At the helm: Captain Ivan. He makes a water lily bloom for me. Marko and I go on a paddling tour. In this way, the impressive landscape can be explored in a relaxed manner. I brought you something. - Thanks very much. It's going to be really nice. This will be a surprise. Back on board, handicraft lesson with Marko and our water lilies. Who taught you this? The people here from the lake. A boater, a few years ago. I was in the beginning too... I've already ruined a few chains. Didn't work right away either. But somehow it will be. Have a look. Nice? Very beautiful. Did you do everything yourself? Oh, that looks nice. At least the Montenegrin women find such a chain much nicer than a chain from a real jewelry store. Anyone can get that, but something like that. Are you speaking from experience? - Partly, yes. You always make me say more than I want to. What should I do? I need to find out about the culture. That's right, it's also an important part of the culture. Family is important here, isn't it? - Definitely. Family unity is very important to us. It's also slowly declining here, I would say in comparison to how it was 50 or 100 years ago, but it's still very important. A perfect day on the water comes to an end. Those looking for peace and nature are in the right place here at Lake Skadar. We drive to the most important monastery for Serbian Orthodox in Montenegro: Ostrog Monastery. At an altitude of 900 meters, it was built into the steep rock face in the mid-17th century, well protected from enemies. We have an appointment with Kosta. He is a deacon here and shows us the whole monastery complex. We start in the lower monastery. Muslims come here to pray. Catholics and Orthodox come here to pray. And miracles happen to them all. - For real? Yes, and this is very well documented. Of course, it depends on what you consider a miracle. Wait wait. I want to dress appropriately. How do I do that? the way you feel, okay? That's reasonable enough, okay? In the church, Kosta shows me the miracles that Saint Vasilje, founder of the monastery, is said to have performed: from a Muslim whose child was saved after a fall to a mentally ill woman who was healed. Even today, believers come and ask for healing from illnesses. The Ostrog Monastery is a magnet for pilgrims from Montenegro and neighboring countries. They spend the night in this building, for example. And here Kosta tells me a very personal secret. I proposed to my wife here. What? That's an interesting story. Yes here. So not right here. I don't know, somewhere down there. But here. So you are married. Yes, I'm married. Of course we have to get married as priests. Orthodox priests must marry. What if you can't find a woman. Then you can't become a priest? Yes, that's right. - For real? Or you go to the monastery and become a monk, dedicate your life to God. You can't preach to people if you don't live like them, can you? That makes sense. Yes. But my story is typical. There are many people whom Saint Vasilije matched. So not only healing from illnesses, but also support in love affairs. No wonder the monastery is so popular. Believers come mainly to see the bones of Saint Vasilje, which are laid out in a rock chapel. Is it still something special for you to go in? Naturally. I pray. You know, sacred relics are very special to us Orthodox. The body of the person who prayed so much, who was so close to God. When you are close to that person, you are also closer to God. It's not magical power, you know? It's all about God. The bones of the saint lie in this burial cave. We're not allowed to film here. The view of the valley opens up from the upper floor. I can imagine that they kept a close eye on potential attackers here . The rock monastery is spectacular. Around 620,000 people live in Montenegro, two thirds of whom belong to the Serbian Orthodox Church. And that has a big impact on the state. A relationship that is not easy to see through. We make our way to the Durmitor Mountains. People ski here in winter and hike in summer. And that's exactly what we have in mind: We want to climb the highest peak in the Durmitor National Park: the Bobotov Kuk at 2522 meters. Marko will accompany us. He is a mountain guide and also a member of the Montenegrin Mountain Rescue Service. He will surprise us with a very special summit story. Here we go. It's going to be a walk. - He says now. Isn't he wrong about that? The tour starts slowly at first. Now we have the flat part. It even goes down a bit to Lake Zelenevier. Then we have 450 to 500 meters of pure climbing ahead of us. I still have no idea how to get up there, but I'll be fine. The lake that Marko announced is more of a pond, but a nice spot for a first break. Now it's getting serious. We must protect ourselves from falling stones. Then the tedious part of the ascent begins with a lot of climbing. *gasp* The track is challenging. During a break I want to know from Marko what makes the Bobotov Kuk so special for him. I was nine years old the first time I climbed Bobotov Kuk . For me, this is the most beautiful peak in Montenegro. I have traveled all over the world and seen many big mountains but Durmitor is my favourite. But have you climbed higher mountains? Yes, I've been on some really tough expeditions. I am the first Montenegrin to climb Mount Everest in 2010. The highest mountain in the world, 8848 meters high. The expedition lasted 76 days, a physical feat. After that, Marko had frostbite on his face. But was the view from the top of the world worth it? The high peaks like Everest are very wild. There are only stones and ice. But here, here we have trees down there, the lakes. Durmitor has 18 glacial lakes and 48 peaks over 2000 meters. How likeable that his local mountain is still his favourite. Nevertheless, he will continue to go out into the world in the future. His goal: The 7 Summits, i.e. the 7 highest peaks in the world. But first the highest peak of the Durmitor Mountains. We are preparing for the most difficult part of the summit ascent. And it's not entirely safe. Marko secures us, even if that seems exaggerated at first and we get a few looks. But every year there are accidents here. The last few meters are sweaty and not for people who are afraid of heights. Finally we reach the summit. Standing on the highest point of Durmitor is a nice feeling. We proudly sign our names in the summit book. Although Marko has been up here about 70 times, he would like a souvenir photo. This flag was with me on the roof of the world, Mount Everest. can i touch it We start the descent and notice the altitude that is already in our bones. And then Jonas shoe breaks. Go on. But it's not just the shoes that wear out. We're not there yet. That was 1000 meters of altitude, not just 600. That's 40 percent more than planned. I'm a cameraman. can you do it - I'm just waiting here for you. We needed a whole day for our tour. A strenuous but unforgettable experience. Our journey takes us past Lake Piva. And it is just as artificial as it looks. It is the youngest lake in Montenegro. It was only flooded in the 1960s. The reservoir meanders almost 18 kilometers through the valleys. I have probably never seen a stronger turquoise. We are drawn back to the coast. We start early in the morning from the port of Herceg Novi. The small town is in the very west of the country. Natascha wants to show us her homeland. I want to know from her how people tick here. The people of Montenegro are very relaxed and easy going. Life here is not as fast as in some other countries. Tourists don't notice that in summer. Then everyone is busy and working. But in general, people in Montenegro value their free time, their lazy time. And then they enjoy just being. And that is exactly our plan today. Natascha's favorite hidden corners can only be reached by boat. Also present: her partner Illia. Both have known each other since childhood. After graduation, things sparked between the two. When we were both back in Herceg Novi, we met again and again: in the harbour, in the yacht harbour, in the sailing club and so on. That's how we found each other again. And then there was this one party. It's always a party. Our first stop: The Blue Grotto. Is this the entrance? Do you think that fits? - I dont know. Of course it fits. And because we got up so early , we have the grotto all to ourselves. That'll get your swimmer's heart pumping, right? mmm We definitely have to jump in there. I'll make an ass bomb. OK? Ass bomb ready. The color in the blue grotto is impressive and the sun is not even at the ideal angle. It's supposed to be bluer here in the early afternoon. But we're already excited. It was definitely worth getting up early because it's so cool to be alone. And it gets even nicer. Natascha and Illia take us to this bay. The rocks are almost stepped, ideal for jumping. This is one of our favorite places. We even like it better than the blue grotto. He's a lot more private. This is our secret hiding place. Yay! you seem so happy That's exactly my thing, wonderful. Very clear water. Time for a lunch break in this hidden cove. The division of labor between Natascha and Illia is clearly regulated. I'm the cook, Illia is the kitchen assistant. He helps to chop, clean the fish, set up the grill. And then I do the part that's really fun. Eating is of great importance in our everyday life. How do you say Bon appetit? Enjoy your meal? Priyatno. - Priyatno. Priyatno. Priyatno, Jonas. We enjoy fresh mackerel and the prawns. Our time on the boat goes by way too fast. In the early afternoon, the blue grotto shines even more blue. But everyone else knows that too. We'd rather have them to ourselves. Back in Herceg Novi we explore the city. It is known for its mild climate. Sailors once brought the exotic plants with them. The clock tower is the landmark. Herceg Novi is one of the Montenegrin cities with the most hours of sunshine a year. Even in winter there is often t-shirt weather here. The old town is definitely worth a visit. If you are a guest in Montenegro, you cannot avoid one specialty: Priganice. These are sweet dumplings. In a small village above Herceg Novi I can now prepare them with Victoria. Thats is quite easy. You wait for the dough to rise a bit. Then comes warm water, a bit of salt and a little dash of schnapps and flour. I can now fry the dough in hot oil. Victoria learned the recipe from her grandmother. And she seems quite happy with me. Very good. Very good. But one important ingredient must not be missing. My secret is love, love for the kitchen. I'm actually a lawyer, but my passion is cooking. What do you think? This is the healthiest food you can eat. - Well done, Nina. Priganice is actually always available in Montenegro: for celebrations or dipped in honey for breakfast or as a dessert. better than mine They're really good. At first I thought they were super cute. but the sugar is only on top. Look, he looks like a little elephant. My work. - Yes. Extra for you. - A little elephant. The Montenegrin donuts are just delicious. The next day we start in the Bay of Kotor in Perast. The former seafaring town is now a listed building. In front of Perast are the two islands "Saint George" and "Virgin of the Rock". The monastery island "Saint George" cannot be visited. The "Maid of the Rock" is a must see and only a five minute boat ride from Perast. We have an appointment with Norman. Born in Berlin, he has been living in Montenegro since 2012. Of course I want to know what brought him here. How did that happen? I feared the question. I got married here, found my love here. And I've been here ever since. And nothing can take me away. I love not only Perast, all of Montenegro. Something special. You have to get used to the lifestyle a bit. But this is another story. You'll tell me later. - Yes, I'll do it. The "Maid of the Rock" is the only artificial island in the entire Adriatic. In 1452 two fishermen from Perast found a painting here in the middle of the bay on a small ledge depicting the Madonna with Jesus in her arms. And for the people that was a sign from God . They swore to build a church here. The church could not be built at first because the rock was just two square meters. So stone and rock have been thrown into the sea for centuries. More than 100 shipwrecks were even sunk here to build the Catholic pilgrimage church. The small prayer room is dominated by thousands of small silver votive tablets in gratitude for illnesses that have been overcome or wishes that have been fulfilled. Even today, believers here still ask for succor, like a young couple Norman tells me about. When they came here they were unable to have children. And three years after her visit here on Gospa , the man came back alone and left a small votive tablet with three angels to Our Lady of the Rock. They got triplets. This is also a magical place for wedding couples. Tradition has it that the newlyweds leave something behind for the bride. That's why you see the bridal bouquets here, parts of wedding dresses. That's the tradition. And that should mean good luck for the future. And most importantly, there hasn't been a single marriage that's now divorced. Really? - Yes. That means whoever gets married here has the lifetime guarantee. Exactly, lifetime warranty or is particularly associated with luck. What a beautiful idea. As a tourist guide, Norman has made a fresh start in Montenegro . I notice the pride with which he shows me his new home. Are you more of a German or Montenegrin heart? I am and will remain German, of course. Some of my colleagues say that I'm a bit of a Montenegrin. Half-Monti they sometimes call me. But what I don't lose is punctuality. I'm always the first one in port before anyone even gets there. Norman takes us to Kotor. The city has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is characterized by the palaces of rich noble families and churches. In 1979 the old town was almost completely destroyed in an earthquake and then rebuilt. Nevertheless, nothing seems artificial here. This is like your home. You live here? Almost, yes. A bit outside the walls, but you can call this my home. Around 22,000 people live in the municipality of Kotor. That was a change for Norman at first. When you come from a big city like Berlin – hectic, stressful. It took me a long time to get used to it. Now I'm like this, I don't have to rush anymore. I got used to the quiet lifestyle. They say "polako, polako" here, slowly but surely. Everything is going really slow and I really don't rush anymore. The old fortress is 260 meters above the city. From here there is said to be the best view of the bay. I am armed. Let's see how long we need. Danger. - Attention, newlyweds. 1348 steps, and it's still 37°C. Was that really such a good idea? The two gentlemen are rather reluctant. Norman does it the Montenegrin way: he doesn't rush. That was your idea up here. You now have the option to turn back. No, I'm not giving up. We made it. And we will be rewarded with a unique view over the Bay of Kotor. It is often referred to as the southernmost fjord in Europe. The next day we say goodbye to the almost 30 kilometer long bay. By the way, this is not a fjord. No glacial trough was flooded like in Norway. Rather, the sea has slowly penetrated a former riverbed. Our journey continues over 32 curves into the Lovcén National Park to what is probably the highest burial site in the world. The mausoleum of the poet prince Petar II. Already during his lifetime he decreed that he wanted to be buried here and had a modest chapel built for this purpose in 1845. At the end of the 1960s, construction of today's mausoleum began. There is a touch of socialist realism and a stunning view. We stop at THE postcard motif of Montenegro, the island of Sveti Stefan. Formerly inhabited, now a luxury hotel. At the time of our shooting, the hotel island was closed. But even if it is open, it belongs in the unaffordable category. You can start here from 1500 euros per night. But fortunately swimming and enjoying the view is enough for us. Relax again, because an outdoor adventure awaits us. On the Tara, the longest river in Montenegro and definitely the most spectacular. There are hardly any roads here in the canyon. The only way to explore the fascinating landscape is by boat. We chose a canoe. This is a bit more difficult than classic rafting, but we also have more fun. The river is also the border here with neighboring Bosnia and Herzegovina. Delicious! Bosnian water. There is a lot going on here in the summer. the water level is not too high, but still challenging. For the Montenegrins, the tara is almost sacred. Even children are named after her. They certainly have a particularly rousing temperament. We are once again in the old town of Bar with Cazim. He is one of Montenegro's few professional olive oil tasters and invited us to a tasting. 28°C is the perfect temperature for the taste to develop ideally. Heat olive oil. I've never done it either. My first impression: fruity. Very good that you said fruity. It smells like fresh meadow. Then we learn how to taste professionally. It is very broad on the tongue, becoming a bit bitter on the side. And it gets a little sharp in the back. That sounds like you're a professional olive oil taster. I might be from now on. Olive oil has three main flavors: Fruity as you said first. Bitter. This is slightly bitter. It's slightly bitter and spicy. If you eat fish, you use an oil like this. A light or mild. If you use strong olive oil, you will lose the smell of the fish and will only smell olive oil. That shouldn't be the intention. - Ah okay. I always just go to the supermarket and buy a bottle of olive oil for everything. Yes, here in Montenegro it is the same. I'm learning that oxygen is a big enemy of olive oil. That's why Cazim recommends small bottles that have such a protective cap. His love of olive oil has a long tradition. My grandfather and great-grandfather grew olives and produced oil. For me it's my hobby, it's my love. When I go to a restaurant with friends , we take our own olive oil with us. Yes, that's really true. Cazmin takes us to a very special place, to what is probably the oldest olive tree in all of Montenegro. Studies by the University of Istanbul have shown that the main trunk is around 2240 years old. And he still carries olives, which are still used to make oil. If I'm honest then the quality is similar to other olive oils. But this oil is still something special for us. A place where old and old like to mingle. I will definitely pay more attention to the fine nuances of taste when it comes to olive oil. We experience the important role olive oil plays in Montenegrin cuisine in the southernmost city of the country: in Ulcinj. It's near the Albanian border. And here, as everywhere in the country, people get married. We have an appointment with Meritta to cook in the middle of olive groves. Now let's do jabrak. Jabrak. - Jabrak. These are vine leaves stuffed with meat, onions and fresh mint. They are cooked in the oven with olive oil for five hours. Here in Montenegro everything with olive oil. How much olive oil do you use per week? A bottle? No, two or three. - Two? Okay good. Meritta explains the influences of Ulcinj's cuisine to me. Actually it is Turkey, the Ottoman era and Italy. Actually, we had made an appointment to cook, but we should have arrived a day earlier for that. Meritta has almost everything ready. And I can try. Let's start with the okra. mmmm - Do you like it? They melt in your mouth. How long did it take you now to do all this? With my mother-in-law, we started cooking yesterday. Yesterday? You can't do it all in one day because it takes a long time to cook. It all looks so delicious. Now I have to film you trying. This is really a challenge for me. I eat my way through the countless little delicacies. Delicious. Look Nina, you forgot to try it. Yummy, mini bruschetti. We're beginning to understand the importance of food here. When someone gets married, the bride's parents have to cook a lot and very well for the new husband. And whenever you cook something and it tastes very good, they say it's like for the husband. Okay, can the men cook here too? Not that many, some, but the women all. In the 80s Ulcinj was a popular destination for German guests. Meritta was just a child at the time, but remembers that time well. When German tourists come to a house, we all know it has a special smell. It was beautiful, like soap and perfume. And it was beautiful. We always knew when a house had German guests. You are one of the best tourists our city has ever had. Now you have to behave yourself, Nina. I have to behave and make sure I smell good. As hospitable as the Montenegrins are, we are immediately invited to a family dinner. Full and happy we go to the Velika Plaza, to the large beach, with 13 kilometers the longest in Montenegro and a water sports paradise. Good Morning. Our next day starts before sunrise at the former Ulcinj salt works. Salt was produced here from 1934 to 2013. It is one of the most important wetlands in the Balkans for birds. We have an appointment with Bojan. He is actively involved in protecting the more than 250 bird species here. Five or six years ago , people went to the birds' nests and destroyed them. What? At that moment, people just didn't want the saline to be protected because there were other interests. They had plans to erect buildings here for tourism.] The salt pans are extremely important for migratory birds, for example for flamingos. Flamingos are great. But why do they all have to get up so early. Bojan works at the Center for the Conservation and Study of Montenegro's Birds. His passion for birds initially met with a lack of understanding from his friends. At first everyone thought I was crazy for bird watching. That doesn't happen that often here. Do you bird watch? Why then? you count birds How do you count birds? I've always been asked that, but now they're used to it. After a long effort by international animal protection organizations , the salt works were finally declared a nature park in 2019. But that's not enough, because the salt works are falling apart. The salt marshes must continue to be pumped full of seawater and dykes, where birds can safely breed, must be maintained. Most people in Montenegro are not aware of what we have here, what a rich nature, what diversity. You don't realize the wealth we have there. Bojan will continue to fight to preserve this important place. We drive on and also support animals right away. Turtle tired of life. - She's peeing. Oh yeah. - As a result of fear. Our way to the northernmost city of Montenegro takes us again over the Tara, over the 150 meter high Tara Bridge. Of course we have to stop here. I jump on the zipline. Ready? It's a bit of an effort for me. The flight is short but spectacular. It's worth it. What a dreamy setting. After the Grand Canyon, the Tara Gorge is the deepest mountain range in the world. We are right on the Serbian border in Montenegro's fourth largest city, Pljevlja. Not the prettiest city at first glance, but here is the most beautiful mosque in the whole country. We definitely want to see them. Aljicevic shows them to us. One enters a mosque with the right foot first. Wow. The Hussein Pasha Mosque was built at the end of the 16th century. The dome was designed after a large model in Istanbul. As we see, it is a copy of the Blue Mosque in Turkey. Interestingly, as you can see, Hussein Pasha Palavic used mostly blue paint. And at the time, the blue color was very rare. A kilo of blue paint was paid for with a kilo of gold. Aljicevic is the muezzin here. That is, he calls the congregation from the minaret to prayer. It is 42 meters high, making it the tallest in all of Montenegro. There were times without technology. The muezzin had to climb the minaret and then proclaim his message. It's a lot easier today. You don't have to climb up anymore. He still remembers his first visit to the mosque as a child. When I entered a mosque for the first time , it was an incredible feeling for me. And by the way, also for all other Muslims. To have a place to pray. Guests are very welcome here. There are no regular opening times, but when the door is open, the mosque can be visited. We say goodbye to the small Balkan country. There is so much to experience in an area that is comparable in size to Lower Saxony . Everywhere we were warmly welcomed and take so many beautiful memories with us. And in any case also something of the relaxed attitude to life in Montenegro. SUBTITLE COPYRIGHT: hr 2021
