Insane Nightstand Build || No More Cords

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this video was sponsored by skillshare hey you didn't know i was in there did you in this video i'm going to show you how to make these floating nightstands huh waterfall edges got a wireless charging dock these cool curved handles they're pretty slick and they're not that hard to make so follow along check out the video look at the video description for links to products my patreon page all that jazz anyways i'm gonna take a quick nap and then we'll get started [Music] all right step one get yourself a bunch of wood in this case we are using five quarter white oak smells like white oak tastes like white oak yep that's white oak all right let's do this now we're essentially going to make a box a box that's mitered on all four corners creating a waterfall edge meaning that the grain continues from the top and down the sides so the first thing we have to do is glue up a slab that is just as wide as well we want our nightstand to be so i did all the classic things i chopped it down to size i got a straight edge on the jointer i ran it through the table saw to get the correct width and then of course i went over and poked it through the planer nice and easy the planar squeezy well i guess it doesn't really squeeze it more trims anyways pretty soon i had some beautifully milled pieces that i could glue together in my slab that would be cut down to become my box oh and i should also mention i'm making two of these so you haven't been drinking too much you're not seeing double there are two night stands once all my wood was milled and looking fresh all i needed to do was smear some glue on each edge and slap these things together so i did just that now you notice i'm not using biscuits or dominoes i'm not really too worried about this being perfectly aligned because i haven't brought it down to its final thickness yet it's only 19 inches wide and i've got a 20 inch planer so after i glue them up i'll send it through the planer on both sides so that everything comes out perfect all right now to just wait for that glue to dry thanks to movie magic the glue is now dry i came out the next day and removed all my clamps and we were ready to start shaping this thing into a box first thing i did was clean up the horrible mess i made with all that glue squeeze out just scraping it with a putty knife and then i sent the whole thing back through the planer first on one side and then the other bringing the entire slab down to just at one inch thick after both sides were planed on both of my slabs i did my favorite thing in the whole world and that was just lightly sand them smooth next i needed to start cutting all of my miters to create my box now i had this old cross cut sled i made for my other saw but it didn't fit on my new saw so i cut it in half get rid of that piece for now and now i have a working sled again and this just happened to be 20 inches wide so it'll perfectly fit my 19 inch slab right in there to cut those miters with my saw blade at a 45 degree angle now whenever you're doing a mitered waterfall box like this you have to keep in mind that only three of your four sides are actually going to be grain matched and in order to achieve that you have to work in a certain order because the bottom is not going to be grain matched i like to cut the bottom piece first we'll cut the bottom then cut aside then cut the top then cut the last side so we start by just chopping down the far end of our slab with a nice 45 degree angle you'll notice i took that offcut piece from the crosscut sled and he used it as a support on the far end of the slab because the slab is a little big i also used some wedges at the front of the sled to get that slab nice and tight against my back fence after cutting that 45 degree angle i got out a tape measure and i measured over the distance of my bottom and drew a line no not the distance of my actual bottom the distance of the bottom of my box but hopefully you know what i meant after drawing that line i draw another line with a combination square to mark where i need to cut that 45 degree angle just like that then i flip the whole thing over so that that mark is facing the saw blade and now using that offcut from the sled on the opposite side to support the piece i'm cutting off i once again run it all the way through the table saw cutting a nice 45 degree angle then before i just go crazy and cut all my other pieces i want to stop and make sure that my cuts are actually nice and square if you're not making square cuts you're going to kind of be upset when you go to put the whole box together luckily that cut was perfect next i need to mark each side so that when it comes time to form this into a box i can get all that grain lined up the way it should be now before we cut our other piece we need to cut the reverse of that 45 degree angle basically taking out a little wedge when you think about it a box from a slab is just removing a bunch of wedges and folding the thing into a box i'll show you more what i mean a little later on in the video once we remove that wedge we can measure over the distance of our side now and just repeat the exact same process cutting the length of our side measure it with the tape measure draw a straight line add a little bevel with the combination square then flip the whole thing over and cut it again it's really not that complicated of a process you just want to go slow and make sure that you're getting nice crisp clean cuts because if you don't you're gonna have a rhombus instead of a box and ain't nobody want to rob this when they're trying to make a box pretty soon i had all four of my pieces cut out and it looked like they were going to go together pretty geez maybe you should wait to put them together until you actually have something to hold them together with one piece all cut out i moved on to my second of the two slabs and i got a little smarter on this one if you notice i took a piece of eight quarter stock and some clamps and i clamped my main crosscut sled to my little offcut piece to make sure that everything was nice and rigid and cutting perfectly smooth and really sharp i mean look i cut the edge of my finger right there watch out folks those miters are dangerous ouch now here's what i meant by making a box out of a slab is just cutting a bunch of wedges as you can see here's my slab and all we really did was cut three or four wedges out by cutting those perfect 45 degree wedges we can very easily just fold the entire thing into a box and ensure that all that grain will match all the way around i like to use blue tape to just hook everything together just to check and make sure my seams are going to come together nicely and i don't have to make any adjustments if it goes together well with just blue tape you know it should go together just fine once you get some glue and some clamping pressure on there so with our box done and looking hey it's a box anyways with one box all hooked together i did the exact same thing to the other box and they were starting to look like at least the bones of what will soon be a night stand but before we get too much further we had to cut all of our joinery to actually hook the boxes together and keep them nice and sturdy for this i'm using a festool domino joiner just adding three dominoes in each seam i'm using little tabs on the end of the domino joiner to reference my two outer marks and then i just drew a pencil line for reference in the middle see i'll show you what i mean there's these little tabs here you just catch those on the outside edge of the piece and that perfectly measures in the same distance on both sides so you know everything's going to line up then i drew a line on the middle for reference and i add another mortise in there if you don't have a domino joiner you can do the exact same thing with a biscuit joiner it'll work just as well basically all the dominoes are doing here is giving a little strength to that miter as well as really helping you line everything back up as you can see with this dry fit the dominoes allow everything to clip together and give you a perfect picture of what it should look like once it's all glued up so far so good so with one box all cut out with my dominoes i do the exact same thing to the other box you know sometimes you guys really like to complain when i pull out the domino joiner oh yeah just pull out a super expensive tool but you know what you could do instead of complaining just save up some flipping money and buy yourself a domino jointer i mean i promise you won't regret it you use it all the time so quit whining and man up or woman up with all the pieces cut for both boxes and having them dry fit it was now time to make them a little prettier you'll notice the front of this box just has a boring flat edge and i wanted to add a little shape to it in the form of a back bevel so the first thing i did was mark all of the pieces so i knew exactly which side was my front then i simply took them over to the table saw with that blade still set at 45 degrees and ran each piece through not cutting a full 45 all the way through the piece but about three quarters of the way through so i still had just a little bit of a flat spot on the nose of each piece you could do the exact same thing with the router but honestly it's so easy on the table saw i don't know why you would do it any other way after cutting all my pieces i lightly sanded them to remove any burn marks left behind by the blade on the saw if you don't think this looks very different from before we'll just check this out on the right we have the back bevel on the left it's just flat yes it's subtle but it does make a huge difference when it comes to the overall feel of the piece with everything cut and shaped and dry fit i wanted to do one more thing and that was to add these wireless charging stones to the top of each nightstand i hate having to deal with cords when you plug in your phone and they're always hanging all over the place so this would be a nice clean solution and because it's solid marble it'll also double as a coaster if you want to set a drink down so all i really needed to do was recess these into the top of each nightstand so i kind of positioned them and figured out where i wanted them as far as ease of setting your phone on when you're laying in bed and once i had that figured out i just marked over with a tape measure and drew a little line in the center of what will eventually be the circle that i pocket out now there's a lot of different ways you could do this you could just use a jig and a router it'd work fine but i've got this fancy shaper origin so i'm gonna flip and use it why not so i just designed the size circle that i need on the machine making sure to design it a little on the small side i can always take a little more off if i need to and i just started hogging out my circle i wanted to recess them almost all the way into the top leaving just about a thirty second of an inch of the stone sticking up so that the phone would make good contact with that wireless charging apparatus thing in no time i had my circle pocketed out and then all i had to do was drill a hole in the bottom of that circle for the cord to pass through into the actual carcass of the cabinet as you might have noticed whenever i'm drilling a hole all the way through a piece with a forstner bit i like to drill halfway through on each side that way i don't have to worry about any blowout and i'm left with a perfectly clean hole and wouldn't you know it that marble disc slid in absolutely perfect since it went in perfect in one i just went ahead and cut the same size circle on the other nightstand assuming that both charging docks would be the exact same size i mean you would think that's how people would make things but when i grabbed the other charging dock out of the box wouldn't you know it it was about an eighth inch smaller what the heck kind of quality control is this so knowing that i could not live with that big gap around one of them i had to fix my mistake and the only way i could think to do that was to cut a plug again on the shaper origin the exact size of my hole and fill it with a solid piece of wood basically undoing what i just spent all that time doing now i knew this wasn't going to be a perfect match but i tried to pick a piece that was pretty close as far as similarities in the grain i left it a little proud and i brought it down almost flush over on the drum sander and then finished it up with the hand sander once i got it completely plugged it was back over to the shaffer origin to re-cut the hole this time a little bit smaller for that other charging disc and boom goes the dynamite it slid in as it should and you can hardly tell there was ever a mistake made well you probably can because i just showed you but imagine you didn't know like you wouldn't be able to tell would you and with that both of our cabinets are assembled but they're not glued up yet that's next this video was sponsored by what wait for it oh skillshare skillshare is an online learning community with thousands of inspiring classes for creators you can explore new skills deepen existing passions and get lost in creativity they have a ton of different classes to choose from on a wide variety of topics one that i recently took and found very helpful was productivity for creatives with thomas frank hello my name is thomas frank welcome to my third class here on skillshare this class is all about productivity for creating another great class is finding your style with this guy my name is andy j pizza and i am an illustrator podcaster and public speaker today's class is about finding your style so what even is style i think on the most basic level it means the choices that you consistently make the cool thing about skillshare is that it's curated specifically for learning meaning there are no ads and they're always launching new premium classes so you can stay focused and follow wherever your creativity takes you also skillshare's entire catalog of classes now offers subtitles in spanish french portuguese and dutch so if you speak those that could be helpful and the really cool part is that the first thousand of my subscribers to click the link in the description will get a one month free trial of skillshare so you can start exploring your creativity today like right now today go do it now i learned long ago that the most important thing when gluing up mitered boxes is the prep you put into it before you actually glue it up you want to make sure you have a sufficient place to hold all your clamps and pull that corner together nice and tight my favorite method for this is to simply make some calls out of plywood and just glue them directly to the piece with some ca glue now i'm sure you're going to say why don't you put painters tape down and then you can glue it to the tape and then it's easier to take it off well it is easier to take it off it also makes it fall off a lot easier when you're in the middle of clamping it up and then you get frustrated and start screaming so i just forgo the tape and glue the plywood directly to my piece you might also be asking well isn't that going to be really hard to get off no actually they still pop right off and i will show you here after the glue up is complete how easy it is to remove plywood when glued to solid wood just don't worry so with all my plywood calls glued on it was time to start smearing glue all over everything now i went pretty heavy on the glue because i didn't care if it squeezed out on the inside because you're not gonna see it it's gonna be filled with drawers i did however make sure not to put too much glue towards that front back bevel because that's gonna be visible and would also be a pain to get all the glue out of so being careful not to get too much glue in the front and plenty of glue everywhere else i clamped it all together after the glue dried on one side i flipped it over and did the same thing to the other side now i will admit i thought in my head that i'd be able to just pop these pieces off and glue them up but after gluing one side well i couldn't get them all the way off but i could get the gap wide enough to squeeze plenty of glue inside there so it worked out in the end i just didn't want to try and glue all four sides at the same time that's a lot going on at once and i don't like that level of stress but in the end i got plenty of glue in that crack and everything clamped up and before long it was time to remove our clamps and show you fools how easy it is to remove these plywood calls i know you've just been sitting on the edge of your seats but get this a little chisel a little hammer a little brunt force and kerpau wow so difficult all that's left is a little residual ca glue and the last layer of veneer from the plywood you can just leave that and sand right through it with a hand sander but if you want to take a little extra effort and some fine chisel work you can pretty much remove all of it before you even start sanding just be careful not to dig the edge of your chisel into the top of your piece keep it nice and flat and in no time calls what calls i don't know what you're talking about i didn't use no calls i don't know about you but i would rather have to do a little extra work and clean up and know that my calls aren't going to move then try and use some blue painters tape and just be praying that they stay put after a light sanding it looks as though nothing was ever attached in the first place and as you can see all of our edges came out nice and crisp with a beautiful grain match from top to side next i had to cut and install my french cleats that's what i'll be using to hang these on the wall a french cleat is a great way to hang a cabinet or box on a wall it's super sturdy and very secure all you do is cut a piece with a 45 degree angle attach it to your cabinet and cut another piece and attach that to the wall the two pieces slide in and well they hang there's really nothing more to it than that now you might be saying well how are you going to attach it into your cabinet now are you going to screw it in are you going to nail it in are you going to domino it in no i'm literally just going to glue it in place that might sound crazy but you're talking long grain to long grain glue up there's no stronger glue up on the planet than that but in order to get a nice secure clamping surface to glue that french cleat to the top i took each cleat over to my dado saw and i just made a light pass on either end this won't compromise the sturdiness of the french cleat or its functionality at all but what it will do is give me a nice flat surface to land a clamp and ensure that i get plenty of glue and pressure to hold this cleat in place see looks pretty darn good then you just take your glue spreader aka your smear a little glue on three of the four sides and plop it in place i will say that you want to make sure it's a nice snug fit you don't want it loose on either end although it'd probably still be fine the only thing that really matters is that it's glued securely to the top the sides just are a little added bonus in my opinion and this is my youtube channel so my opinion is really all that matters after getting glue smeared everywhere it needed smeared i used my little clamping cutouts and what do you know they worked perfect and as you can see i have good glue squeeze out along that entire seam then i do the exact same thing to the bottom this time just with a squared off piece this is going to be my nailer strip this will ensure that once the cabinet is sitting in that french cleat it can't pop out and fall on the floor if you don't think that's a possibility you should go watch my friend keith johnson's latest video he did some floating nightstands too and he really knocked his out of the french cleat he thought i was going to say park but no his fell on the floor and broke love you keith with our french cleats and nailer strips glued firmly in place it was now time to install our drawer slides now there's going to be two drawers and we want them both the exact same size so i like to install the upper drawer slides first just using a scrap piece of plywood that is exactly half of the height of the inner part of my cabinet i set the drawer slide on top knowing it's right in the middle and it in place i also set these back exactly three quarters of an inch from the front of the cabinet because you've got to remember you want to leave room for your drawer face itself and we want the drawer face to stop right where that back bevel starts in no time i had all the drawer slides installed and now i just had to make a few drawer boxes if you want to learn how to make your own drawer boxes i'm not going to tell you in this video because we ain't got time for that but i do have a full video on making every part of the cabinet and you can check that out in that upper right hand corner annoying little button thing but since i already know how to make drawers i made four of them and installed them with the drawer slides next i wanted to make some fancy wooden drawer pulls that had some curve to them and matched the mid-century vibe we got going on in the nightstands now if you want to know how to make these in detail well i'm not going to show you because we ain't got time for that but believe it or not i also have a video on making these exact same drawer pulls that you can watch and i will walk you through step by step exactly how to make them but because i need to keep talking while you watch this footage here are the bullet points basically you make a few cove cuts on either side of a board to get a nice curve on the inside then you bring down the angle on the outside by changing the angle of your table saw blade you do your final angle over on the jointer until it looks something like this you're probably thinking that doesn't look anything like a drawer pull well don't worry we're not done yet once you do all your rough angles on the table sawn joiner you knock down all the ridges with a block plane making sure to go with the grain so that you don't have any tear out after you knock down all the ridges you finish it up with the power sander and a nice soft pad that'll follow the contour of the slide you're going for a nice round outer portion that kind of matches the radius on the inside of the slide then you take the whole thing over to the table saw and cut it in half now we have two blanks that we can cut multiple drawer pulls out of next we trim the whole thing down so that it's all about a quarter of an inch thick be careful with this cut though it can be a little shady and you want to watch those fingers then after tracing out the actual shape of our individual poles i just go over to the bandsaw and very carefully roughly cut those just proud of my pencil line i say just proud because we can finish everything up to the pencil line over on the oscillating belt sander at this point we're still dealing with multiple poles hooked together so we need to cut them apart into each individual piece i just use a auxiliary fence on my miter saw and very carefully trim them down to the correct size until we are left with four individual pull-like things looking something like this and i clean them up with a little hand sanding and boom custom curved drawer pulse but before we could install them i kind of need to actually make drawer faces and of course get a kiss from my foreman get a kiss from my foreman what kind of weird relationship do i have with my foreman but that's a conversation for another time with all of my drawer faces made just out of solid white oak and cut to the right size i next needed to carve out a mortise in the face of each drawer face that i could slide my custom poles into so again i just cut this using the shaper origin making sure that it was a nice snug fit and looking pretty darn good if i do say so myself i do i do say so once i had all four mortises cut for each drawer pull it was finally time to glue them in place you really don't want to go overboard with the glue because the glue doesn't have any place to go once you put the pole in there so if you put too much glue that pole is not going to go all the way in and you're going to have a gap which we don't want so just a little glue a little force and let it sit i said let it sit thank you drawer pull installed just three more to go with all of my curved drawer pulls glued nice and secure into my drawer faces it was time to attach each drawer face to my drawer box i used playing cards to get all my reveals spaced out evenly and i just did one drawer at a time and used some clamps to hold the drawer face securely to the drawer box while i got it screwed in to the drawer box sometimes i start talking not knowing what i'm gonna say and then i just hope that i figure it out as i'm talking but it doesn't always end up the best but you know what has ended up the best these night stands cause they're looking pretty amazing but one of the more frustrating things in woodworking is as soon as you get something put together you typically have to take it all apart again to put finish on it so that's exactly what i did now i know you're assuming i'm gonna use cotton white because this is white oak but ever since that barn door i've really fallen in love with the mud light color from rubio monaco so i'm just gonna stick with this for a while i mix up a batch and i start rubbing it all over my body um and by that i meant the body of the nightstand it's not like i secretly rubbed some on my own body when the camera wasn't on i wouldn't i wouldn't do that after rubbing it all on i rubbed it all off i'm still talking about the nightstands here just to clarify and then i rub some on my drawers um the the drawer faces of the nightstands not my personal drawers and they were done built finished charging pads installed the last thing i needed to do was hang them on the wall the only other component to these cabinets is the cleat that we need to attach to the wall and as you can see i purposely cut this small i like to leave a little play on either side this allows me to slide the cabinet left or right after i get it hung if i need to adjust it oh and one other thing i needed to secure these cords from the charging docks on the inside of the cabinet so they wouldn't interfere with the drawers so i just use a zip tie and a screw and then i also cut a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to pass the cord through because the outlet is just below where these nightstands are gonna hang then it was up to my master bedroom hey i recognize that bed and after measuring and marking exactly where i needed to install my cleat i just screwed it directly to the wall now most of the time you want to find studs or use some really beefy anchors but because we have this solid wood paneling on the back wall i didn't have to worry about that with my cleat screwed securely to the wall you literally just set the cabinet on top and let the french cleat do the work installed but as i mentioned we don't want this to ever pop off of that cleat so next we're just going to send a few screws through that nailer strip and hold it securely in place i typically only do this with smaller pieces something huge like a bathroom vanity that's got a lot of weight to it you really don't need the nailer strip the french cleat is going to be fine it's not going to pop off of there but for smaller pieces especially ones with drawers it's just a good little bit of added insurance to make sure that it's never going anywhere you know like my friend keith's night stand that did go somewhere like on the ground when it fell off the wall i love you keith with both of my cabinet carcasses securely on the wall i reached underneath and pulled the cord from the charging dock through the bottom and plugged it into the outlet and last but not least i got my drawers with my beautiful wooden drawer poles and i slid them into place and just like that i was done complete finito beautiful floating nightstands that i can actually enjoy because they're next to my bed well it's me and my wife's bed i have to let her sleep in there it's like a marriage thing it's kind of annoying but anyways the point i'm trying to make is they're all done and i know the question you're all asking is do the charging pads actually work uh yeah they do and my phone has a case on it and it works even through the case i would show you that but i'm using my phone to film this video so i couldn't film myself using my phone to charge because well that's impossible but i hope you enjoyed this video and i hope you were inspired to go make some nightstands of your own oh hi i was just looking for pennies hey we did it well i did it you guys just watched but nightstands floating wireless charger cool curved drawer pulls i'm tired but i hope you enjoyed the video check out the links in the video description for all the different tools and supplies i use there's a link to my patreon page and you know you could go follow me on instagram facebook that sort of thing i'm just gonna go back over to the other side here [Music] red sky
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Channel: Bourbon Moth Woodworking
Views: 585,781
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Insane Nightstand Build, No More Cords, end table, diy nightstand, diy furniture, side table, do it yourself, modern furniture, bedside table, diy end table, modern side table, night stand, mid century modern, night stands, modern builds, how to, home decor, how to build an end table, nightstand build, modern nightstand, end table build, diy side table, french cleat how to, floating nightstand, floating end table, modern end table, mid century modern end table, builder
Id: ilyZkKBWGQY
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 33min 54sec (2034 seconds)
Published: Sat Jan 01 2022
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