From ephemeral ice caves to blinding blizzards and ethereal northern lights, winter in Iceland is primal and beautiful, cozy and uncomfortable, unforgiving and glorious. Follow us on our journey as we brave the vicissitudes of the Icelandic winter. This travel documentary was supported by the following local partners. Our winter roadtrip through Iceland started by picking up our rental car at Keflavik airport. After a short introduction to the vehicle, we soon found ourselves on Iceland’s biggest road heading towards the capital city of Reykjavik. Every traveler coming to Iceland for a winter road trip is strongly encouraged to rent a sturdy vehicle that can handle the rough road conditions which can range from slushy snow to being completely iced up at times So if you value your own well-being, get a 4x4. Arriving in Reykjavik in the late afternoon, we decided to head on a short stroll around town. With roughly 130.000 inhabitants, Reykjavik is home to every third Icelander. The city’s most well known landmark is Hallgrímskirkja. The stunning architecture of the Lutheran church draws inspiration from Iceland’s many
naturally occurring basalt columns. In front of the church, a statue commemorates the exploits of famous viking Leifur Eriksson, the first European to discover America. As the wind continued to pick up and the dark was quickly approaching, we headed back to our car, and soon left Reykjavik behind. For our first evening, we had booked a stay in a charming old school bus. With a jagged mountain range overlooking the
site, we settled in for the night, ready to start our roadtrip the following day. The next morning, we were woken up by the rhythmic patter of a hail storm. Meanwhile, the surrounding mountains played hide and seek with the low hanging clouds. Typical for Iceland, the weather continued to change quickly, and soon, even a speck of blue sky was visible. After clearing the car from a bit of snow, we set out on the road. Our excitement about the skies opening up was short-lived, however, as it didn’t take long for a dark cloud to roll in. Before long, we arrived at one of Icelands’s
many one-way bridges, a common feature of the country’s infrastructure. The bridge spans a cascading river, which soon after empties itself into Hvalfjörður, Iceland’s deepest fjord. With the deep fjord to one side and steep mountains to the other, the scenic road closely hugging the shoreline was a delight to explore. In a land so rich in precipitation, it did not take us long to come upon a waterfall. Just as the snowfall was picking up again, we took a turn off onto a smaller road which, at times, was barely visible. Embarking on a winter hike, we started out towards one of Iceland’s highest waterfalls. While the trail was quite easy to follow at first, it soon disappeared entirely underneath the snow. Despite that, we caught a glimpse of the narrow gorge that the Glymur waterfall is set in. Glancing in the opposite direction, we noticed that the sun was making a grand entrance. Having completed our trip around the fjord, we met up with Iceland’s Ring Road, which would bring us north towards Snaefellsness. It didn’t take long, however, before we embarked on a small off-road trail in search of a natural hot spring. Driving through a snow-covered lava field, we marveled at the scenery around us. Shortly before arriving at the end of the trail, we passed through several gates, which during summer help to keep sheep in the paddock. Having failed to locate the hot spring, we decided to turn around again. Meanwhile, the snowfall started to increase in strength. Veiled in a blanket of snow, the desolate purity of the landscape made us feel as if we were exploring a different planet. To truly appreciate an Iceland winter holiday, you have to find joy in the misery. Objectively speaking the weather is absolutely horrible as it is snowing heavily, you can't see anything and it's freezingly cold. However, often it is the most adverse conditions that make you feel truly alive. Back on the main road, the conditions got even more challenging. At least, for a moment. An epitome of winter in Iceland, the weather’s rollercoaster ride continued and we soon found ourselves rejoicing in sunlight. At least, for a moment. Heading to a nearby beach, we looked upon the stormy ocean. Seals can often be seen resting on the rocks, but they must have deemed the waves
too uncomfortable that day and searched for shelter elsewhere. While we didn’t spot any seals, we did come upon the remains of a recently beached humpback whale. In the distance, we also discovered the characteristically
steep mountains of Snaefellsness rising out of the clouds. Dropping down one such mountain side, the 80m high Bjarnafoss has created an array of intricate ice sculptures. Just a stone's throw away, Búðakirkja is one of Iceland’s most iconic churches. Offering a great contrast to its snow-covered surrounding, the black chapel sits within an old lava field embodying pure Icelandic isolation. With the sunset approaching, we settled in for the night, hoping for fewer weather swings the next day. Upon waking up, we quickly realized that our wishful thinking would remain just that. We looked on in disbelief as the wind was throwing slushy snow against our panorama window. Just as we were about to head out, the weather also added a sprinkle of wind
to the mix. Embracing the old adage, that there is no bad weather, just bad gear, we went out to brave the storm. However, that theory was quickly tested by the wind gusts which reached speeds of more than 100 km/h that day. Following a short trail, we somehow walked to the cliffs of Arnarstapi. Made up of black basalt columns, the cliffs are an extraordinary sight, especially when the waves ferociously pound against them. Several scenic rock arches can be found in the area, which is a favorite nesting site for many seabirds. Despite the undeniably tumultuous weather, the scenery surrounding us still retained that magical charm which is incomparably Icelandic. That was about to change quickly though, as we headed straight into a full-on blizzard with visibility dropping to only a few meters. We really shouldn't have complained about
yesterday's weather. Reducing our speed to a minimum, we slowly crawled forward, navigating solely by the sight of the yellow road markers. As we were running low on Diesel, we had to fill up at the very next opportunity - a decision that quickly turned into the most unpleasant refueling experience ever. Everything - from the keypad to the actual fuel pump - was jammed with snow. Back on the road, the blizzard continued for a little longer - until it suddenly disappeared when we entered Snæfellsjökull national park. Named after a glacier-caped volcano, the national park is located in the westernmost part of Snaefellsness, protecting the rugged coastline, historic settlements and abundant lava fields of the area. Several short hiking trails lead to scenic viewpoints and windy beaches, on some of which the remains of old fishing
vessels can be found. Due to the rich fishing grounds along the coast, the region was fairly populated in past centuries. Today, however, the entire park is uninhabited, offering many opportunities to enjoy the untamed wilderness. Shortly after leaving the park, the sky opened up beautifully and sunshine adorned the surrounding mountainsides. After some time on the road, we started to approach Iceland’s most iconic mountain. Kirkjufell, translating to Church Mountain, is a wedge-shaped peak which is framed by several picturesque waterfalls. Its remarkable shape is a result of the ice
age, when glaciers surrounded the mountain, grinding away its sides for millenia. As it is both easily accessible and stunningly beautiful, the site is a hotspot for photographers, even in winter. Enjoying the view for a long time, we marveled at the icy waterfalls and watched the clouds dance around the peak. Following a short drive from the mountain, we arrived at a cottage, where we would stay the next two nights. Located within view of Kirkjufell, the cottage offered us a stunning vista onto the entire fjord. Taking our time the next day, we marveled at the scenery for hours. Making the most of the good weather, we decided to explore the area a bit further. In Iceland, it is always windy, because if it isn't windy there must be a storm. The country is considered to be one of the windiest places on earth so it shouldn't come as a surprise that the Icelandic language knows more than 100 words to describe the different sorts of wind. A child of the ice age, Snaefellsness is often called ‚Iceland in miniature‘. The reason for that nickname is its variety of landscapes including picturesque mountains and rugged cliffsides, as well as black beaches, craters, waterfalls and lava fields. Driving through one such lava field we realized that Iceland is fundamentally different to any other place we ever visited. The marriage of primal beauty and life hostility is perfectly manifested in the raw strength of nature that governs the country. As a result, Iceland is an excellent destination for a roadtrip, both on and off the tarmac. Getting rather peckish, we were thrilled when we came upon a local bakery in Stykkishólmur. Even though the city barely counts 1200 inhabitants, it is one of the largest settlements in the area. On our way back to the cottage, we came upon one of the most commonly seen animals in Iceland. A small, but hardy breed, Icelandic Horses are the descendants of animals brought here by Norse settlers. Over the course of a millennium, they adapted to the harsh climate, developing a double coat offering excellent insulation. In the past, horses were the most important
and safest way of transport, but even to this day, they play a role in shepherding, racing, tourist rides and, of course, as hairstyle models. With the day drawing to an end, we marveled at the sunset which bathed the fjord landscape in flaming colors. Our most important morning ritual aside from drinking coffee obviously is to check the daily road conditions. Luckily the Icelandic government has set up a website that allows us to track the conditions of all the major
roads throughout the country in detail which tells us the wind speed on any given road or if a road is covered in ice or snow. And most importantly it tells us if a road is
open in the first place. Because two days ago, with the big blizzard hitting Iceland many of the roads leading to our today's destination were closed off but checking the website right now, we have seen that the roads have reopened and we can commence our journey. Leaving Snaefellsnes behind, we headed south towards a region known as the Golden Circle. While the previous day’s sunshine was all
but gone, there were still exciting things to be discovered. Overlooking a large fjord, we detected some movement in the water. After getting into sharpshooting position, we spotted a harbor seal swimming in the shallow water. Also known as the common seal, they are frequently seen along Iceland's coastline. These seals feed mostly on fish and can reach a length of 1.8m and a weight of 170 kg. If they are not on the hunt, they are often found resting on rocks and beaches, or, if available, on ice shoals. Carrying on, neither weather nor road conditions improved. At times, even the ring road became somewhat
of a one-way street. Temperatures have just risen above freezing which means that the snow and ice previously on the road is now thawing leaving behind a slushy substance which is the most difficult to drive on so far because whenever one side of the vehicle hits the slush it slows down abruptly and that means that you may lose control of the vehicle but we are trying to combat that by driving slower than usual and keeping the vehicle as steadily as possible in the lanes already on the road. That strategy proved useful on all the larger roads where other cars had already driven. However, we soon found ourselves on a small road which was entirely covered in slush. Any form of safe driving was nigh impossible
under such conditions, as the car frequently started to skid sideways. Mustering all its twisted sense of humor, the weather surprised us with blue skies the following day. An even more impressive feat was that the roads were entirely free of snow, slush, or ice. Due to its geological location over a rift
in the continental plates, Iceland is brimming with geothermal areas. One of the most-visited of these is Haukadalur, as it is here that travelers can witness the eruption of a geyser. The word geyser is a bit of an unusual one and for good reason, as it is derived from the Icelandic language. As a matter of fact, just behind me is the very first geyser ever described by Europeans which has become the name-giver of all the geysers around the world While the original geyser was known for its powerful eruptions, it has fallen into an extended slumber during the last century. Luckily, just a few meters away, its smaller brother Strokkur is as vigorous as ever. Erupting around every 10 minutes, the geyser shoots up a 20m high fountain of warm water and steam. With a little bit of patience, travelers can watch the geyser erupt from every conceivable angle. Interestingly, Strokkur and the nearby Old Geysir, are the only two geysers in Iceland that are known to erupt. All remaining hot pools of the country do not share this explosive character trait. While the water shoots up at Strokkur, it moves in the opposite direction at the nearby Gullfoss. Equally part of the Golden Circle, the waterfall is well-visited. Despite its popularity, Gullfoss is worth a stop as its width and the amount of water gushing down make for an impressive sight. After dropping down a total of 32m over two main cascades, the river continues its journey in a narrow gorge. Roughly 8km downstream, we crossed a one-way bridge over the same river. As we were blessed with beautiful weather, the landscape was marvelous to behold. Looking around us, it surely seemed as if the grip of winter was slowly easing. Patches of green grass and moss offered us a welcome contrast to the previously dominating fields of snow. On a day such as this, it becomes easy to understand, why Iceland has developed into a premier destination for anyone appreciating nature. Taking full advantage of the extraordinary sunshine, we continued to explore the many scenic roads of the area. One such road led us to the shore of the majestic Þjórsá river. With a length of 230 km, the river is Iceland’s longest waterway. Heading further inland, we soon arrived at the delightful Hjálparfoss. This picturesque double fall is surrounded
by a plethora of basalt columns. Due to their artistic arrangement, the columns form many fascinating shapes. After catching a glimpse of the Icelandic
highland, which is inaccessible by car during winter, we turned around again. Before the day was over, we decided to visit one more waterfall. Although not quite as spectacular as the previous ones, Urriðafoss boasts the highest average water flow of all waterfalls in Iceland. Upon returning to our accommodation, we made full use of the cabin’s hot tub. While we looked out onto the beautiful landscape, the sun was slowly setting, bathing the surrounding area in a stunning golden light. Having sufficiently warmed up in the hot tub, we thought it would be a great idea to go snorkeling in glacial water the next day. To survive for more than 2 minutes, we of course dressed in proper gear including a dry suit. Then the tricky part is lifting the suit up all the way with you because you have a lot of suit on the legs. Pull it up then let your hands slide inside the seal don't make your hands big try to make them as small as possible so they're slid in easier i'll give you a hand guys okay What else? Gloves and the hoodie they are wetsuit material they say waterproof, but it's just a Swedish brand don't trust them okay, you're gonna get wet on the gloves how to keep your hands as warm as possible easy don't move them okay the more you move them, the colder they will be why? because the idea behind the gloves is the water gets inside the glove and it stays warm your body warms the water up so you should have warmer water inside the gloves all the time but if you do these movements or if you put your hands up if you're swimming with your hands you're going to expel the warm water from inside the glove and the glacier water gets again inside and it's cold and cold and cold and then you don't feel your hands for two weeks so just don't move them okay it's my best suggestion for today don't move your hands what else? for the snorkel we're gonna try it in the beginning it should be working however after one minute in this water your lips are going to be so numb that you won't really feel what you're doing it's actually good because you don't feel the cold anymore but you don't feel what you're doing so it's kind of hard to seal it just try your best to seal it give it a big kiss make sure your lips are around it but the water will get inside how do you take the water out? the professional way - blow it away you keep snorkeling, blow it away keep snorkeling no worries And then it was time to enter the 2-degree cold water. As soon as we put our heads below the surface, we could barely believe our eyes. The clarity of the water was unmatched by anything we have ever seen. Needless to say, we were utterly stunned - both by the cold water and the incredible view. The water in the Silfra Fissure originates from Langjökull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier. At a certain point in its journey, the meltwater seeps into a porous underground lava field, where it is filtered for 30-100 years. Re-emerging at Silfra, the water is exceptionally clear, offering unparalleled visibility of up to 100m. Another reason for the clarity of the water is its constant movement, as the natural spring feeding the fissure creates a gentle current. This definitely is one of the most special oh I can't feel my lips most special diving places and snorkeling places in the world because the view is just incredible you can easily see a hundred meters in the distance swimming through this glacial water kitted up in the dry suit it's just an incredible experience Spending more than 30mins in the water, we experienced a state of underwater meditation. Back on firm land, we also explored the surrounding area, which was no less interesting. Sitting on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, Iceland is split between the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates. As a result of their tectonic drift, a deep rift valley has formed in this area. Every year, the two plates drift 2.5 cm in opposite directions - slowly tearing Iceland apart in the process. Thingvellir is really interesting from a geological perspective however, it is also important from a historical one as it was right here that the Icelandic parliament met up for almost a thousand years once a year all free men from around Iceland would congregate here for the great assembly - the Alþingi - to settle disputes or establish new laws. As the main social event of the year, the Alþingi drew large crowds of people from all over the country, including farmers, traders, craftsmen, and of course, storytellers. Living in temporary camps during this time, the yearly congregation can be likened to a social fairground, where people would network and foster social ties. The main stage of the gathering was the Law Rock, a rugged outcrop on which speeches were held and announcements made from. Continuing our journey, we started to head
towards Southern Iceland. Situated conveniently along the side of the road, Seljalandsfoss is a 60m high waterfall dropping impressively over a steep cliffside. Stretching for many kilometers, this very cliff is the former coastline of the country. Over the course of millennia, Iceland's land mass was slowly raised, leaving behind a breakaway edge far from sea. As a result, countless smaller and larger waterfalls can be seen plunging over the edge. One of the most popular tourist attractions of Iceland, Seljalandsfoss is well-known for a little trail leading behind it, providing a 360° viewing experience. Saying that, the trail was officially closed during our visit, a fact that a lot of tourists didn’t pay much attention to. What is always really frustrating about these mass tourism sites aside from the number of people obviously is that there's an utter disrespect for rules people do not want to get their fancy boots dirty apparently so they do not stay on the muddy trail but just walk over the barriers on the side and thus trample all the grass or the trail is closed - there's a big sign on it, well people just jump over it and walk there nonetheless and that just takes away a lot of the charm of these kind of places at least for us Following a scenic drive below the cliffs, we checked into our hotel for the night. Even though clouds were covering the mountaintops, the view from our room was very nice. Early the next morning, we paid a visit to Skógafoss, another waterfall dropping down the former coastline. With a width of 25m wide and a height of 60m, the waterfall is one of the biggest of the country It is well-known to produce vast amounts of spray, which apparently does not bother the nesting seagulls. While Skógafoss is equally a tourist hotspot, a nearby hiking trail leads to a lesser-known waterfall. To get there, travelers follow the course of the river through a stunning gorge. One thing that is really important when it comes to a road trip in Iceland is expectation management you may have seen countless pictures online of clear skies and sunlit waterfalls however reality often looks much different but if you're willing to embrace the moody weather you will have a great time because many of these places are extremely magical even in adverse conditions Being all alone at the waterfall, we opened ourselves to this wonderful sight. Those who are not afraid to get wet, can even explore the waterfall from behind. Having had our fair share of waterfalls, we headed towards the coast. At first, the view was rather limited, but after a while the cloud cover started to lift. Discovering a series of puddles on a side trail, we couldn’t resist to go for some water splashing. Shortly after, we arrived at Iceland’s most famous beach. Renowned for the incredibly black color of its sand, Reynisfjara is a long beach separating the ocean from a nearby lagoon. Whereas most beaches around the world are
colored brightly, the sand at Reynisfjara is black due to the erosion of volcanic rock. While this is not the only black beach in the area, its popularity is caused by a number of nearby rock formations. Starkly jutting out from the ocean, several impressive sea stacks are the remains of the former cliffs. With time these pillars will disappear into the sea as the waves continue to pound them mercilessly. However, the local waves are not only a threat to those rocks. Reynisfjara is known for its extremely dangerous sneaker waves, which can rise out of nowhere and chase far up the sand. Several lives have been lost here already which is why visitors are advised to be highly alert at all times. A safe to access, and therefore popular spot, are the beautiful basalt columns at the eastern end of the beach. All day, every day tourists will climb up the columns to capture the perfect picture. Equally of volcanic origin, the columns are the result of cooled-down lava. Just around the corner, these same columns form a cathedral-like cave that is wondrous to look at. Those who are careful, can walk up the beach even further, taking in the splendor of the looming cliffs. Forming interwoven patterns, the cliffs strongly epitomize the otherworldliness that is so characteristic of Iceland. Not far from the cliffs, the quirky Skool Beans Cafe Bus is a popular stop for coffee lovers - an opportunity we couldn’t resist. Recaffeinated, we continued to drive east and soon after spotted a polar fox along the road. Still wearing its white winter coat, the fox stood out dramatically from its dark surroundings. During the transitional period from winter to spring, the polar fox isn’t the only animal facing this camouflage conundrum. The same also applies to some of its prey, such as the rock ptarmigan. At some point along the road, the cliffs were replaced by a wide river landscape, which was most impressive from a bird's eye view. That evening, we stayed at the cozy Magma Hotel - our favorite accommodation of the entire trip. Spacious and comfortable, our cabin-style room offered us a wonderful view of a little lake. Using the binoculars from the room, we looked out onto the landscape, trying to spot the local wildlife. Just short drive from the hotel, we came upon an expansive moss-covered lava field. Dominating the landscape for several kilometers, the moss carpet was a fascinating sight. Unlike other plants, moss is capable of colonizing rocky surfaces. This is due to its ability of absorbing nutrients and water through its leaves. During rain, the moss stores water and photosynthesizes which creates its appealing green color. Strikingly, the moss carpet reaches a thickness of up to 60cm in this particular field. Despite that, the moss is very fragile as it does not have any proper roots. Therefore, stepping on it must be avoided at all costs. Embarking on a gravel trail, we slowly drove through the field, being once more stunned by the diversity of the landscape. Some time later, we came upon a river, which a little further upstream, flows through an incredible gorge. Formed during the last ice age, the canyon walls rise up to 100m high. After it was featured in a Justin Bieber video, the site experienced an onslaught of visitors, which threatened the canyon’s sensitive ecosystem. Today, visitors must stick to a designated trail - even when it gets a bit muddy. Equally, tourists are not allowed to randomly defecate in the landscape, albeit it is a surprise that such a sign needs to be put up in the first place. Continuing east, we started to make our way toward Vatnajökull National Park. To put it bluntly, that day the weather wasn’t really on our side. Of course, we did not let us stop that from wandering to a glacier just behind our hotel. Even though the low-hanging clouds were somewhat menacing, the glacier proved to be extraordinarily beautiful upon closer inspection. Going for seconds the next morning, we found the landscape lit up by sunshine. To our delight, the ice-covered mountain peaks were now visible behind the glacier tongue. Also known as the Hollywood Glacier, it was here that several major productions were filmed, including Game of Thrones, Interstellar and Batman Begins. We could easily have stayed there all day long, losing ourselves in the complex shapes of the glacier. But instead of limiting ourselves to one view, we decided to go on a scenic flight to gain a different perspective. After getting into a small Cessna, we waited for the engine to heat up. Heading over to the gravel runway, we quickly started to gain speed and before long were up in the air. Following the take-off, we quickly caught a glance of the glacial rivers running towards the ocean. Just a few moments later, we were flying over the very glacier tongue we had just looked at from ground level. Around 30 such outlet glaciers flow down from the vast Vatnajökull ice cap, which at its maximum, reaches a thickness of almost 1 km. Covering an area of 8000 km2, the ice cap makes up more than 7% of Iceland’s landmass. While the ice cap looks almost smooth at some points, at other times, countless crevices tear the glacier surface apart. It was also fascinating to see that the glacier was not solely blue and white, but frequently featured dark streaks of ash. Similar to other glaciers in Iceland, several volcanoes lie beneath Vatnajökull and the residue of their eruptions often settles on the ice. Our favorite sight were the glacier lagoons, where we saw massive ice bergs floating in the water. Close to the glacier’s mouth, the ice can easily be 900 years old, which emphasizes the fleetingness of our own lives. After we spend 40 minutes in the air, it was time to return to base. Fully taking advantage of the beautiful weather, we quickly hit the road and started to drive east. Along the way, we came upon several more glaciers flowing down from the mountain massif. Discovering a gravel road, we headed towards one such outlet glacier. To our absolute delight, we had the magnificent scenery all to ourselves. Due to the strong wind, the waves on the glacier lagoon continuously smashed the little icebergs into one another, creating an iceberg symphony. Most fascinating, however, was picking up the remains of such icebergs and marveling at the clarity of the ice. Merely a short drive down the road, we also visited Jökulsárlón, Iceland’s most famous glacier lagoon. Because of its fast downhill movement and the permanent contact with salt water, the local outlet glacier calves much more than other glaciers. In the last 90 years, this has led to the creation of a large glacier lagoon which is now well-known for its abundance of icebergs. With the ocean in sight, the icebergs continuously drift downstream, frequently crashing into one another. Instead of being swept out to sea, however, many of them run aground or are thrown back onto the beach by the waves. Creating the illusion of gemstones on a black
beach, this stretch of coastline has been named Diamond beach. One of the main reasons people visit Iceland in winter is to see the northern lights of course So far on our trip we haven't been overly lucky as the skies have been mostly cloudy or the northern lights simply haven't been that active however tonight there may be a chance for some northern light activity so I've walked up to this viewpoint overlooking the glacier and I'm now waiting in the dark for the next two to three hours to see if any northern lights will adorn the night sky Despite waiting patiently, no northern lights showed up that night. Luckily, we did manage to catch a glimpse on another night - at least until the clouds hid them from our view. Whereas the day before, it felt as if spring had arrived in Iceland, Winter quickly came back with a vengeance. In preparation for going on a guided glacier hike, we temporarily traded our defender for a slightly larger vehicle and soon found ourselves on a bumpy off-road trail. To ensure the safety of all participants, we were equipped with a climbing harness before we started our trek towards the mouth of the glacier. Once we arrived at the ice, we put on our crampons for added stability. The main thing on the crampons is just to keep some space between your legs when you're walking just a little bit because if you walk like this then it's very easy to get caught in your leg and you might rip your pants and then fall on the ice and that's not very nice and when we're on the ice you want to have a flat foot on the ice always that's like when all the spikes are touching even when we go up and down just have a flat foot on the ice and then that's enough for the grip Following this introduction, we started to hike up the glacier. Due to the cold conditions, the surface ice was frozen solid and easy to walk on. Not long into the hike, we came upon a big hole on the glacier. Yeah, that's how the caves start like the water flows down here and into the ice so it's flowing on top of the glacier finds a weak spot and then starts drilling a hole into the ice and curates like a huge cave system inside the ice the water goes always the easiest way and goes out at the front so the glacier is like the human body it has veins and you have big veins and smaller veins so you have bigger rivers and small rivers At times, the water even creates entire canyons on the glacier surface. Emulating the steps of our guide, we carefully walked down the slope, entering an icy gorge. Taking in the view, we were struck by the realization of how consistency wields enormous power. Instead of a massive one-time flood, this canyon was carved out by a small stream of water, which with its persistence has created a treasure trove of natural beauty. Following the course of the water, we headed deeper into the canyon. Before long, we found ourselves surrounded by ice of an almost unfathomably blue color. When snow falls on a glacier and doesn’t melt, it will be compressed over time, becoming part of the glacier. During the process of snow packing, air bubbles are squeezed out, allowing the ice crystals to enlarge. This crystalline structure of the ice strongly reflects the blue colors of the light spectrum, leaving us with a sight we will cherish forever. Even though we could have stayed there for many more hours, at some point it was time to move on. While we had been nicely sheltered in the gorge, the conditions on top of the glacier were a little rougher. When the Vikings came here about a thousand years ago it was actually a bit warmer, it was relatively warm so this area was called Breiðamerk which means the white forest and there were trees here and people settled here and made some houses and then in the 1500s, the little ice age began which is a period where it got really cold on the northern hemisphere and became really difficult to live in Iceland because it was really really cold back in the day when the glacier was bigger it was just a nuisance you know the glacier was blocking the countryside you know to go from this countryside to the other you would have to cross the glacier and there was a huge glacier river in the front so people didn't really go on the glacier for fun Stepping down from the ice, there was one more sight to be explored. At the mouth of the glacier, the river has carved out a massive cave, which can be safely explored in winter. Yet again, we marveled at the incredible blue color surrounding us. Meanwhile, the snowfall intensified, which proved to be good news for Iceland’s glaciers as it will decelerate their melting process - at least for a time. On our way back, we came upon some reindeer which in autumn, migrate down from the highlands. Imported from Norway in the 18th century, reindeer are Iceland’s largest mammals. While they almost went extinct in the 1930s, today their numbers are stable. Feeding on many types of plants, they search for whatever is available underneath the snow in winter. A long drive ahead of us, we left southeastern Iceland behind and started to head west again. Some days the weather in iceland has every intention of keeping you inside and today is certainly such a day with gale-like winds and incessant rain luckily we are staying in this cozy cottage where we have snuggled up and for once are doing absolutely nothing Looking out the windows, we witnessed the notorious sideways rain - which perfectly explains why Iceland is sometimes nicknamed ‚the worlds biggest washing machine‘. Naturally, the rain had left behind the odd puddle, which made driving on the gravel roads even more fun. With only two days left, we focused our remaining exploration on Reykjanes. Spotting an orange lighthouse from the main road, we decided to take a closer look. Surprisingly, the access track turned into a veritable 4x4 trail. This is a really interesting 4x4 track we are currently finding ourselves on because while the trail is rough in itself there's a lot of ocean debris here which means that a recent storm must have swept a lot of tree trunks and fishing nets and just general stuff from the sea up here on the trail which is unusual Not long after, we arrived at the lighthouse, where we quickly noticed that our car had gotten somewhat muddy. Of course, we had to take the same trail back again, so we experienced this fun off-road adventure once again. Merely a short drive away, we arrived at Strandarkirkja, a small church located close to the sea. We only intended to throw a quick glance at the ocean, but upon closer inspection, we discovered several seals in the area. While most of the animals were resting on the rocks, others preferred to float in the water. This particular spot seemed to be a favorite for adult harbor seals and their young. Saying that, we also spotted at least one grey seal. Translating to Smoke Peninsula, it is no surprise to find a lot of geothermal activity on Reykjanes. Walking through one such area, we came upon a large number of fumaroles. Everywhere around us, little pools of water were bubbling and the air was rich in a sulphuric smell. While undoubtedly smokey, this geothermal area was nothing compared to Iceland's youngest lava field. In early 2021, this was the place to be in Iceland. Every day hundreds or even thousands of people would congregate here to watch the nearby eruption of a volcano Now, one year later the eruption has stopped and the lava has started to cool down leaving behind an immensely large black lava field that almost touches the sea We can only imagine the sensation that onlookers must have felt watching the red-hot lava stream flow down the valley or the crater spewing forth chunks of magma. Even now, one year later, the sight of the smoking lava field was awe-inspiring. Approaching the lava on foot, we once more felt transported to a different planet. Being so close, allowed us to take in the many shapes of rock the eruption created. Not far away, another lava field is of much older origin. While the lava does not smoke here anymore, visitors will instead come upon the shimmering waters of the blue lagoon. This world-renowned spa allows tired travelers to relax their sore bones in pleasantly warm water. Contrary to popular belief, the blue lagoon is not of natural origin. Instead, it was created from the excess water of a nearby geothermal power plant, which pumps steam and hot water to the surface. The water’s blue color is not caused by any chemicals but rather by the way silica reflects the sunlight. Sometimes described as a happy ecological coincidence, the water of the blue lagoon is rich in natural minerals that have been proven to be good for the skin. Those how would like to do even more for their skin, can also apply one of several face masks. Soothed by the warm water around us, we reminisced about the wild ride this winter trip had been. After two weeks in Iceland, having driven 2400km, it was time for us to say farewell. This winter roadtrip opened our eyes to the wonders of Iceland’s nature as well as to the unpredictability of its weather. Between navigating snowstorms, swimming in crystal clear water and marveling at monumental landscapes, we started to understand why one trip to Iceland is always just the preparation for the following. Until next time, Iceland! See you in summer.
