IBM 5162 XT/286 & 5154 EGA Restoration. Aka "The Grinch"

in 1986 IBM did something very strange at the time their Flagship was the 51708 a 286 system running at 8 MHz and then in September of 1986 just 6 months before launching their all new personal system too they made a 5162 personal computer XT model 286 it's quite the odd ball in a case similar but not identical to the XT and a 6 MHz 286 in theory it should be about 25% slower than the 8C but the 5162 has zero weight States so even at 6 MHz it's only a few per slower than the at with some overclocking I think this IBM is going to leave the more modern at in the dust the 5162 was only sold for a few months so there weren't many made noways these machines are rare Collectibles really hard to find and fetching stupid money on eBay to make things even worse I wanted to match my 5162 with a 5154 EGA display and a model f8 needless to say it took me years to collect this set but now it's finally complete and ready for a restoration unfortunately this project got off to a bad start I decided to use the display when we were restoring the Canon 286 L Christmas I should have known better but I turned it on without checking inside first luckily I caught the magic smoke so we can reinstall it oh crap it escaped again okay it's very early the next morning but I want to finish this video before Christmas we might as well start with the display since we know it's faulty but first a quick disclaimer please don't poke around inside CRT displays they may contain High voltages even with the cord unplugged that being said to get inside one of these we need to remove these plastic covers on top of the display I'm going to try with a soft prying tool because these guys break easily oh we're in luck it didn't break so what often happens with these plastic covers is that this plastic tab here will break off if it does you have to glue it back on and then reinforce on the inside here with some baking soda and glue sometimes these covers are not painted when they're not they turn mustard yellow that is easily fixed with some peroxide in this case they are painted but my soft prying tool is too thick so I'm going to have to use a small screwdriver not ideal but I don't have a choice yeah we're in luck so this tab didn't break either that's actually quite rare I am of course going to wash all the parts in warm soapy water but before I disassemble the display I'm going to clean off this crap here because it's much easier while the display is still in one piece I think this is glue so let's try with some IPA yes it's coming off I think it's all glue from double-sided sticky tape well cleaning is not fun to watch so I'll skip ahead here but this stuff is coming off okay the glue came off time to get inside the display aside from the two screws on top of the display we also have two screws up here and two screws down here I'm going to leave these two in because I think they're holding the PCB inside so if I'm not mistaken the cover should come off now it does well the lid isn't too bad inside but it has been a home for some spiders apparently I want to see ourt lottery I can barely see any suit inside this display it is however completely filled with this crap so it hasn't been stored well but that stuff will clean off but the lack of soit indicates that this display hasn't been used much so if I can fix it this is going to be a real gem it hasn't been turned on since last Christmas so it is of course discharged well I can't see where the Magic Smoke came from but that's mostly because everything is covered up with shields so let's start removing Shields this may look pretty bad but this is just dry dust so I think this display is going to clean up really well so I'm extremely happy with the condition of this display magic smoke or not Magic Smoke and spiders that's nothing compared to a worn out tube so I'm actually extremely happy with the condition of this display I am skipping ahead a bit but there is a lot of connectors some of which are a bit tricky to reach and a lot of zip ties that I have to remember to replace on a project like this I take a lot of pictures let's open up this can here and see what's inside I was expecting a much simpler design apparently EG displays have a lot of stuff inside okay so that's just the back of a PCB there seems to be some kind of connector between these two pcbs I can't quite access these screws inside so let's try to remove this entire module here I'm obviously guessing here so let's see if this will disconnect I can't really tell if these pcbs are soldered together or if there's a connector inside here that was a connector okay so that was how it was supposed to come apart so then I wonder if the power supply will come off in a similar way although the power Supply is put together with rivets so we're going to have to drill those out because my guess is of course the same as yours this is probably where we will find the fault so now I wonder if there are connectors hiding away underneath here like on the other module H still stuck in something let's try to remove these two screws ah yes there was a tab hiding way underneath here and that freed up the power supply what a mess of cables and connectors definitely not a quick and easy project okay let's take a peek inside this module well I wasn't expecting to find anything interesting in here and I was right well this board has been running hot but I don't think we have any problems here although there is something white on these pots I'm not sure what that is it comes off very easily well I'm obviously going to wash this board but I don't think we have a problem here I almost forgot to remove the knobs I'm going to pry them off very gently sometimes these get stuck if they do they can destroy the actual pot if you pull too hard yeah this one is definitely defitely stuck I'm not sure but I think we need to remove this bracket here with the pots for the front panel because I can't see if those wires are connected to the main PCB or not so now I think we can remove the main PCB by removing these two screws underneath I better hold that PCB so we don't damage the neck while we remove it well I can't see anything wrong on this PCB either well aside from all that crap but I didn't expect to find anything either so much more stuff in one of these than the CGA display I definitely don't recommend you take one of these apart unless you really have to in fact I don't actually recommend that you even buy one of these because there isn't much software that will take advantage of the 5154 compared to the CGA display this is definitely the most extravagant display in my collection but who knows maybe I'm wrong maybe there is a difference so one of the things I want to do with this project is to compare the 5154 side by side with the CGA display and see if there is any difference when playing some early dos games here's a better view of the condition of the tube as you can see it's really dusty and a lot of spiderweb but there's hardly any suit so I'd call this a jackpot okay pool noodles ready let's get that tube out that is a pretty heavy tube for its size by the way this is a Hitachi tube with a very long model number I can't see any dates but I'm sure we will find one on the PCB so a final look at the case before I wash it so not stored perfectly but at least everything is dry so I haven't seen any corrosion at all okay time to drill some rivets and take a look inside that power supply okay let's see if that was enough uh not quite apparently that wasn't quite enough so we need to remove the I connector and then slide the PCB out this was definitely not designed to be serviced ah one more screw hidden away underneath the PCB and more zip ties so now this connector should come out enough so we can feed it through this hole here and now I think we can slide the PCB out now it's still stuck in something I think we need to remove this rivet too yeah definitely not service friendly oh finally oh that's interesting my guess was almost right and probably your guess too it's a safety cap for sure but this is not Rea that exploded cap is some other brand in fact if you're a regular viewer of this channel you may recognize it from the PS2 video I made quite recently about that model 50 that got incredibly hot the power supply in that machine had one of these caps too this thing here has just completely exploded so this crap here is that Cap's guts it looks like a mix of paper and suit well I guess this answers the question that I had in that video whether we should replace this type of caps or not we definitely should these nasty buggers blow up just as badly as Reas I was really curious about what we would find inside here because when this machine blew up it didn't smell like Rea these caps have a completely different smell to them when they blow up there are two of these in this power supply by the way this one is really badly cracked but it hasn't exploded yet let's get these guys off the board before I wash [Music] it yeah yeah look at this guy it completely lost its guts these are by the way vmma MP3 caps and these are 0.1 micro X2 caps if you're ordering parts for your project well if you're lucky or crazy enough to have one of these displays you need to get these guys out probably as quickly as possible okay I'm not going to bore you with a cleaning part so let's move on we have already restored the keyboard in a separate video if you want to watch that video you will find it easily on this channel I think the title was restoring model f8 so let's take care of the crown jewel it's been over a year since I bought this machine but I left a note to myself here and apparently this 5162 is still untested and my notse also says no battery leak there's a lot of dirt and Grime on the case and there are some really nasty scratches on the lid here but luckily there are in the middle of the case so they they won't be visible when the display is on top at the back here we have the 5162 badge and apparently the protective plastic is still on so we're going to peel that off later this machine is made in New York and it has an international power supply and here's one of the reasons why there are so few of these machines left there is a battery compartment here for a large camera battery and these things go leaky and they can completely destroy the entire system I don't remember if I remove this battery or if this machine came without but there are no signs of leakage here so this is one of the lucky few a couple of the screws are missing and I don't think these are the original screws so someone has been messing around with this machine well let's remove these screws and I'll see if I can find matching screws later so if you're on a market market for one of these ask the seller to take a picture of the battery compartment before you take out the second mortgage this machine still has its hard drive and a 1.2 Meg floppy so those are probably the original drives so let's get that lid off and have a look [Music] inside okay inside here we have this plastic strip here don't know why it's loose but it belongs here and I think it may be important for the air flow in this case I think it prevents the air from going in here and instead go this way and cool down the CPU that's just behind here we'll glue this back on later uh there's also serial number here but that doesn't make any sense because it's 1 million something but I seriously doubt that they made 1 million of these so let's start with this car here and see what we have inside this machine so first impression it's quite clean actually I don't really see any dusts I didn't buy this machine together with a display so they have obviously not been stored in the same place okay that screw was not the original screw but I'll look for a replacement later so what have we got here well it's obviously a graphics card and it has IBM part number and a connector here yeah now I remember this is an original IBM EGA card so that is a very lucky find indeed it doesn't have the card with extra vram here and if I remember correctly they are pretty hard to find but who knows maybe someone will make a clone card although not really sure if there is any software that takes advantage of the extra vram but it would be cool to have just like the rest of the machine this card is very clean it's not even Dusty okay I had a look at - 0° and apparently that expansion card is quite useful so I checked eBay but there weren't any cards for sale but when looking at pictures it looks very simple so let's hope someone will make a clone card because I think I'm going to need that extra vram if we are going to make an interesting comparisons with eg Gra graphics on CJ displays okay let's grab the next card there aren't that many cards in this machine actually oh it's one of those nice Amber cards I really like the look of these and this is just a standard serial parallel card I don't see any IBM numbers but that stamp looks very IBM is okay I checked and sure enough this is an original IBM card I also did a Google Search and apparently there are clone cards but unfortunately I don't think it's open source next card is obviously the controller for the hard drive and the Flop beam and it's missing the screw not sure if I can remove it without removing the drives first uh let's give this a try Y no surprises here this is an original controller card from IBM and just like the rest of the machine it's really clean so this IBM probably hasn't seen much use to remove the drives we have to unscrew two screws underneath the machine inside this hole here and this machine is clean even underneath unlike the 5160 this machine doesn't have any screws here so maybe there's a bracket missing here I can't quite remember but I think the 5160 had a bracket here and one screw yeah so the only thing that held this drive in place was that one screw underneath to get the drive out we obviously have to disconnect it first and then remove this bezel here and push it back in and pull it out this way yeah check out how clean this machine is there's a tiny tiny amount of dust but that's nothing for a machine this vintage next up we have the massive hard drive that thing looks fantastic it's absolutely enormous unlike the floppy this drive actually has two screws on the side here but that doesn't look original or maybe it is original I don't know so with those two screws out and the screw underneath can disconnect the drive and slide it out oh I think that power connector is faulty so we need to check this so this massive Drive is a Seagate SD 4026 apparently I have done some research here because this sticker is mine yeah the power connector is not okay it's all flimsy and loose so I think I'm going to apply some glue here and then Reflow these solar joints because they are probably cracked just like the rest of this machine this drive is very clean okay let's get that power supply out and check for you know what well no rivets in this power supply but slightly annoying security screws definitely not a power supply for an XT it's an Aztec power supply rated for 157 Watts the power supply too looks to be in excellent condition I can see a tiny tiny amount of dust on the fan a bit tricky to take apart oh well I'm glad I checked underneath here there's a big stinking Rea so we need to get that thing out this project had enough Magic Smoke usual disclaimer of course please don't poke around inside power supplies they may contain High voltages even with a cord unplugged I think this power supply comes apart some more think we can remove this piece too H slightly odd design okay this isn't going to be fun we're going to have to diser the PCB from these connectors here oh we've got some bubble Ram that's pretty cool although this could be a problem because I'm not sure if they are fast enough because we're obviously going to overclock this machine to its limits and I don't know if bubble Ram is fast enough I guess we'll find out and we've got a date here 14th of October of 1986 so second month of production motherboard is held in place with just two screws okay let's start fixing things so this PCB is held in place with one knot here and the PCB is also solder to these connectors here well that didn't come off easily H not service friendly at all let's remove that solder and see what's going on here well they look like they should come off [Music] easily but for some reason they don't oh I see they are bent in place and then solar that's not nice IBM so I think we need to heat these tabs up and then bend them and now we can remove them definitely not an easy reefer to remove well I guess now that we know how it's done it's not too difficult but still slightly annoying we'll clean this mess up later when it's easy to access and now we need to detach the PCB by pushing on these tabs oh the second tab is all the way down here not easily accessible oh there's a third tab down here okay now the PCB is free I think but the PCB is stuck here because of the power switch and the power switch is really firmly stuck too so let's see if we can get it unstuck and try to remove that PCB again okay now it came free that's one really annoying reefer to remove or if that wasn't enough I think it has bent legs yeah sure enough so we need to bend those legs up before we can diser those legs perhaps some fresh solder will help let's give that a try let's make those legs a bit shorter to make this a little bit easier yeah I think that did a [Music] trick off you go little rea yeah definitely cracked it has tons of tiny cracks and one larger crack here so this guy would have blown well I don't have any 47 but I have a few of these .1 X2 caps so I'm not sure if this is okay so comments are welcome but this is what I have so that's what we'll use this cap also has a much smaller footprint so we need to add an extra through hole this is a one layer board so this should be okay we also need to remove some of that solder mask now that should be okay very janky but this is what we've got not the best solution but I don't want to delay this project while in for parts and if this turns out to be a bad idea we of course replace it but I seriously doubt that this is going to affect anything oh we need to clean up this mess too a thick layer of solder went all over the power supply but we don't want to leave it in here because it could create a short that cap was a leftover from the Mac 12 128 by the way guess if it's good enough to filter noise in a Mac 128 it will probably take care of some IBM noise too next we need to solder back these tabs I have to say I'm not a big fan of these tabs they feel more janky than my reer replacement by the way that was not a recommendation you should of course replace caps where the same value okay power supply cleaned up and reassembled next up we have the motherboard and that of course means exploding tantalums I'm not even going to bother a turning this machine on before we have removed those tantalums however I have already made a video with a very similar recap so I think I'm going to replace all these tantalums off camera if you want to see how it's done check out the 5160 video on this channel in that video I go into detail on how this is done oh I see something weird here this eom doesn't have a sticker that's a bit odd well that's an easy fix and here's our 286 the Crystal and the clock driver since we're going to overclock this machine we need to put these two chips in sockets because they can't go faster than 6 MHz perhaps the weirdest thing about this board is the ram so the RAM on this motherboard consists of these chips here in sockets and then we've got two 30 pin Sims here 256k of bubble Ram each so how's that for a weird Ram these are by the way 150 NS so they may actually be fast enough for overclocking but I'm not sure so we're just going to have to test as for the bubble Ram oh these are in plastic sockets so I'm going to leave them in for now I don't want to stress that socket more than necessary and we'll remove them only once when and if we we need to replace them this board has one 33 micro 16vt cap here and rest of the usual 10 microfarad 16 volts I'll replace them real quick and we'll do something more interesting on camera okay that was the last happy cap this board was a pain to recap that ground plane was incredibly thick it just kept sucking up all the heat it was worse than the XT board problem is we can't just crank up the heat because that will destroy the board so the only thing we can add really when recapping these boards is patience check out how thin the copper is around these through holes that thin piece of copper is not going to like high temperatures to overclock this board we need to replace this 286 because it will only go up to 6 MHz and then we need to replace the crystal which funny enough is in a socket it's almost like it's made for overclocking but then again it's not because IBM didn't want this machine to compete with their more expensive 5170 so they built in some code in the Bios that will prevent this machine to boot if it's overclocked so we're going to need to replace these bios chips too we have already talked about the potential problem with the ram so we may have to replace these chips for faster chips and per the bubble Ram too but all that is not enough because this 82284 clock driver is only good for 6 MHz too so next thing to do is to put it in a socket same thing with this chip down here the 82288 bus controller it will handle up to 8 MHz but I'm an optimist so let's put it in a socket too oh these chips have bent legs just like all those tantalums makes the disordering process so much slower well I'll skip ahead here until I have disordered these two chips if you are ordering parts for your project you're going to need one 18 pin socket and one 20 pin socket well it's almost Christmas now so for Christmas last year I got that fancy EJ display I guess fixing it and making it useful again would be a pretty good Christmas present this year by the way you don't really need that display to run on one of these systems in fact VGA display would make bit more sense being a 286 system same thing with the keyboard you don't really need an fat you can use any old keyboard with a PS2 connector and a cheap adapter but for this project I'm going for Perfection I guess it's sort of the best and fastest and most extravagant system of the first generation IBM PCS I found something weird and interesting here check out the motherboard it's stamped with 466 in a typical IBM style as with this number here now check this out underneath the speaker on the chassis in the corner here is a rather fancy badge that also says 466 it's a really thick aluminum badge and it matches the IBM badge on the front of the PC so that badge and that stamp on the motherboard must have been placed there by IBM I have no idea what it is I don't think the camera picks this up but it's a very shiny badge way too nice to be sitting there in the corner with the motherboard installed that fancy badge isn't actually visible it's hiding away underneath the motherboard chassis was already nice before I cleaned it but after some cleaning it now looks perfect I applied some glue underneath the connector on the hard drive and left it to dry and then I Reflow these four solder joints here in case there were any cracks to avoid any potential problems with a bad connection well I have my doubts that IBM place this rail here but I'm going to reinstall it like this for now and maybe someone can tell us in the comments if other machines have this rail too it looks rather misplaced and doesn't make much sense here I managed to get the old glue of that plastic strip and then applied some fresh double-sided tape a small detail but it could be important for the airf flow I I don't think IBM would spend the money unless they thought it would be necessary there is a switch block on the EG card by changing the switches you can use the EJ card with an MDA display or CGA display but the way these switches are set doesn't match any display so I don't really know what display this machine was used with for EG Graphics we need to set these switches to up down down and up course to minus 0° this should give us EG Graphics I have borrowed the missing screws from a future project for these cards and for the lid the case cleaned up really well it does have a few scratches but aside from a few large scratches up here it's in a pretty good condition so while we are here I think it's time to remove that protective plastic and expose that minty IBM 5162 badge and since we are back here may as well install one of those silly camera batteries and of course it's VA I think I'm going to replace that battery with something more modern but not today I cleaned the tube with a Hoover and a brush and it looks pretty much brand spanking new and the rest of the display was washed in warm soapy water I don't think static is a thing in water but to scrub down the pcbs I use an antistatic brush oh there is a handwritten date here by the way 20th of October of 1986 how's that for a perfect match for the 5162 interestingly enough those leftover X2 caps from the original Mac project they had the correct value for this board and they even have the same footprint if they're good enough for the display let's hope they're good enough for the 5162 too okay fancy IBM I'm running out of time and it's almost Christmas we pretty much only have one shot at this if I am to upload on time so untested 5162 and a 5154 minus the Magic Smoke fingers crossed okay we've got high voltage so far so good now let's flip that switch oh no that thing is dead as a door nail that thing is completely dead it's doing absolutely [Music] nothing well I think we have a few more minutes to do a quick check and see what might be wrong here okay let's check those fuses in the power supply and since it's almost Christmas I might as well open up some Christmas presents so this multimeter was sent in for free from Kai Wheats I think it has a rather interesting design so I gladly accepted it's sort of absolutely tiny I think the idea here is that it's so small you can hold it in one hand while you do measurements that's pretty cool and batteries included that's excellent yeah very unusual and interesting design it only has three buttons here oh it's going to auto mode I'm not going to read a manual I'm just going to press these buttons and see what happens I think this is continuity yes it is so let's check those fuses well this one is good and this one too hauh that sucks oh this is embarrassing I forgot to connect this PCB to the main PCB with this cable here what a silly mistake so no wonder this power supply wouldn't power on well I'm going to leave it in of course I make mistakes luckily so do you okay silly mistake fixed let's try again and see if I get a working machine for Christmas this year let's turn the display on we have high voltage fingers crossed oh no it just made a noise and then nothing thing yes it does make a noise and then nothing and the LED on the hard drive flashes very quickly so I think the power supply shuts down quite possibly because of a shorted tantalum oh we might as well check so when the power supply shuts down after less than 1 second that sort of indicates a short since we have replaced all the tantalums on the motherboard it's probably on one of the cards or on one of the drives so let's remove some cards and disconnect that hard drive well at least I tried to make a nice looking ending to this video with Christmas lights and all but this is the reality so everything disconnected except for the motherboard let's flip that switch and see what happens yeah my guess was right the fan in the power supply spins up so one of the things we disconnected probably has a shorted tantalum let's find out which part it is okay hard drive connected okay it's not a hard drive hard drive spins up and it sounds absolutely crazy I love these massive old hard drives there are some seriously large moving parts inside this drive okay let's try with the floppy drive connected okay so it's not a Flopper drive and all of the cards and drives have TMS on them so this is actually a pretty common fault let's try that serial and parallel card oh there we have it there's our P to tantalum so one of these guys here didn't want me to make a nice ending to this video well I'll order some caps and replace them okay lesson learned remember to replace all the tantalums not just on the motherboard I actually think I have in my 5150 and my XT okay so let's try again yep definitely high voltage fingers crossed s well no surprise the fan spins up in the power supply and hard driv start spinning well nothing on the screen yet oh crap we're getting nothing on the screen no I don't think we're getting a happy ending to this video unfortunately well at the very least let's find out if the problem is with the PC or the display okay I pulled the graphics card from the XT this is an as 3G 256 plus I'm using this card to get EG like graphics on a CGA display but this card can also do proper egj graphics and it also has 256k on board so this card will do fancy Graphics without an expansion card I have changed the switch block and the jumpers so it will Now display EG graphics on an EG display let's give this a try okay let's see if that graphics card was faulty think crossed no we're getting nothing on the screen so unfortunately that vmac cap seems to have destroyed something else in this EGA display that sucks okay let's try the 5162 I have changed the display to CGA display and change the jumper settings on the as card let's turn that display on uh see if this works well that's a bit odd I'm getting a blank screen so maybe that fault isn't with a display maybe something is wrong with this machine oh there's actually one switch that I need to check okay I checked uh there is a switch on this motherboard for EG Graphics it doesn't matter which position it's in but for CGA Graphics or MDA Graphics it does matter and it was set to MDA so let's try again with that switch correctly set okay now the screen goes black but we're not getting any graphics well I did not expect this yeah this motherboard doesn't post so this is not likely a graphics issue okay first a quick test what the CGA display the as card in the XT just to make sure the switches were correctly set on the as card oh they were but I had to crank up the brightness and the contrast to get a picture let's try the EG display on the XT okay EG display hooked up and switches are changed for EG display let's try this no this isn't working crap so are the display and the 5162 both broken I find that very unlikely okay let's try the eg8 playay with the original IBM EJ graphics card in the XT no we're getting nothing it's extremely unlikely but I guess it's possible the 5154 and the 5162 are both broken they're just completely dead both of them by the way I checked the switch Block in the XT and it's correctly set for EG Graphics okay it's the next day and things got a little bit weird here so I ran out of time and I actually uploaded this video to my patreons but then I managed to free up one more hour today so I'm going to add this to this video so first I double checked all the tantalums and made sure that I had installed them backwards Unfortunately they all checked out good I then pulled the bubble RAM and tested both modules in my PS2 Model 30 and they tasted good so these RAM sticks are fine next time I disabled all these RAM chips here with jumper J10 in case one of them is faulty the system doesn't need it to post and we'll just enable them again once this motherboard is working again next I decided to check the post codes and the system just Cycles between FF Fe and DD so then I made a couple of new eoms with Rec's Army bios and now we're actually getting some beeps and the system hangs at 10 and we still don't have any graphics on the display so the main suspect now is actually this eom here because as I mentioned earlier it came without a sticker so there's a good chance that the data is damaged on this chip if you have one of these machines and are willing to help out I'd love to have a copy of that code then I could reprogram that chip and and see if it helps and as always if you have any thoughts about what the problem might be I'm always interested to hear uh we'll leave this board on the bench at least for a couple of days well that was a pretty lousy Christmas present I was hoping to enjoy this machine this Christmas but apparently I need to record a repair video before we can overclock this machine so hit the Bell icon below and set it to all if you want to join me in the next video despite the lack of progress in this video and now is a good time to watch the video where we restore the 5160 X team or the restoration of the matching f8 keyboard for this project I will end this video by saying thank you to my patrons I appreciate your support if you want to support me too consider becoming a patreon patrons get Early Access whenever possible you can also support me with a like and a comments if you're a regular viewer consider subscribing to this channel thank you for watching merry Christmas and I'll see you next week

Channel: Epictronics

Views: 20,212

Keywords: computer, computer repair, old computer, pc repair, old restoration, pc restoration, old pc upgrade, computer restoration, bodge, hack, vintage pc, retro, retrocomputing

Id: jAjl-eSy9Ag

Length: 46min 26sec (2786 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 23 2023