Which means that back over on the 5153, that's slowly turning pink here we - Ohh some - Okay a capacitor just blew in the 5153. That's not good! I heard it! It blew! I heard it blow! You're joining me in progress on a video that has something to do with my IBM 5150. Not sure if this video is going up before or after that one at the moment, but for now, um My 51 53 I am now considering dead. Just a short moment ago, I was using it and I heard a capacitor rupture. So, um, yeah, it needs some work now if I'm going to continue using it now. I took a peek around in here and I don't quite see a capacitor that would have made that horrific sound. Umm... So I'm not quite sure, it might be in that and I can't see in that right now because I need to remove this main board from the back, but I need to discharge the CRT first. Now the last time I did a video where I discharged a CRT I made a companion video that shows how to discharge a CRT and I made some mistakes in that one, umm And the method I said wouldn't actually work. Now I did go back and later re-recorded that video with intention of putting it up there But I never did. Now The method of using a grounded screwdriver to get underneath the anode and discharge it to chassis ground Should in theory work, but for me Every single time I've tried to do it no matter what screwdriver I've used wherever the metal bit ends up in here. I get zapped through the screwdriver So I ended up saying well, I'm not putting up that video. We're showing you how to discharge a CRT. Because you shouldn't be getting zapped that's that's bad So this time I mean I gotta it. So I guess I'm gonna record it this time. We'll see how this goes I may I'm gonna go scrounge around see if I can find a different screwdriver. Maybe the longer handled It's less likely to have metal going up high into it So, uh, yep fun I'm a little extra cautious to this one because they clearly mean business with it. That's a lot of cable going to the anode and I couldn't see a sticker on the back of that thing. It says 25,000 volts so Yep, fun All right, I give you the CRT discharger 9000 Already that should be good now. So let's just let's just go right into it and see. Fortunately, I got a lift off the anode since it's connected to the flyback transformer there, which is on the Board and all connected. So if I want to separate this from the CRT, this has to come off. This thing is, uh, really shockingly filthy inside. I think it was rained on. This I think this monitor spent some time outside unfortunately Definitely before I became the caretaker of it. I would not do that To it. I like it too much. Alrighty, so Let's see here. We gotta get in there. And it's almost out Need pliers. All right, so I need to get in here and lift this up and you can see the metal hooks so so should actually both be Hooked in to the glass tube err, but they're not so that was only partially connected that kind of Sucks, but doesn't matter too much But ya know now it's free There's also very clearly a spider in here at some point leaving little webs behind all over in here Yeah, this thing is had a troubled life surprised. It took this long for it to go bad Alright minor correction. This thing is still filthy inside, but the little strands are not spiderwebs They're hot glue from these knobs having been permanently locked in place rather than being adjustable They just kind of trail it off into the distance cuz they were sloppy I am lollygagging a bit here cuz I can see the next steps going to be and it's just So poorly designed to be serviceable the whole board up here everything the power supply all that is held in place with these three screws so It in it's held up. So it doesn't rest on anything You have to do both of these and then where's the board the whole thing? It doesn't go anywhere. It's gonna be loose I'm gonna hold this end up while I undo that one or if I undo that one Then the whole thing is gonna tip forward. It's gonna shear the plastic off. It's just it's really poorly designed so Maybe I'll take it off on its side. No, it's still got that one though. On the other side You get all the high voltage stuff You don't really want to lean onto that really bad design IBM think I'll do that one and lay it on its side That's the least likely to go bad. And then I start to manage all these cables. It's really terribly designed for maintenance Wow, that was horrible! You should not have to desolder wires to be able to get this thing apart That's just terrible IBM shame on you. Sure, you could possibly unscrew the tube But why would you want to do that? It's in a nice secure frame right there You gotta undo the ground strap that's going around the outside. That's it's just dumb All right. Now that I'm in here I can say that this thing is just revoltingly disgusting. I mean Look at this. This is just bad man Why would you leave this thing outside the rain? You know, I do need to find that cap and get it replaced But I'm feeling like I need to tear the whole thing apart and just clean it as well. But on the bright side I have clearly found the bad capacitor here so we can see green does not have a capacitor on here for some reason unless that's all the way in the back and we have a red one That's a little bit swollen looking on the top there and a blue one and the red one. Hmm looks a little Cleaner than the blue. So do you think it just took a little bit of a bath there? yeah, if we look way down in there you can see some Shine going on and yeah, that's electrolytic fluid leaking out of there. So Yep, that's the one that exploded With this whole thing's built inside makes this shot really difficult to light correctly But you can see on the bottom of the cap down there. It's a bit Wet with the new fluid. So yeah, we can see that having leaked out there now and I bit that thing it's er... well it's not hot Doesn't it doesn't feel good. I don't recommend touching a blown cap So, er, yep, let's pop that sucker out Man, what happened to this circuit board? I don't know if it was the rain that clearly happened to this thing or if they used half a pound of flux to solder it all together It's not conformally coated like I initially thought it was because you can still measure through the pads on there It's a little spotty, but I don't think it's that They're really serious about you're not getting shocked on the back of this thing so I could see that being it Maybe it's just broken down over time. That's also why it's turning yellow I don't know but either way we need to get That cap out and you know while we're in here were actually also gonna grab that one what looks like that probably Yeah, so we're gonna get both of those because the blue one was Wasn't too far behind the red one I'm gonna go ahead and only take this one out first cuz I've never had a bad capacitor Sizzle at me when I've tried to remove it and I kind of want to get it out of there Here you can see the difference between the blown red cap and the not quite yet blown blue cap The red cap has completely ejected the plastic that holds the two pins in out of the casing. It's just sitting on top Whereas this one is still intact This one's also shiny from all of the fluid that escaped out of it. And that one's nice and dry on the bottom so Yeah, that one went rather catastrophicly there and... yay YAY! 250 volt capacitors I I don't like my chances of being able to find those locally to get this repaired today and here you can see where it wet the bed when it blew It put a lot of fluid onto there All right. It's day 2 of this and I was able to locally source some 4.7. µF 250 volt capacitors that are a roughly an equivalent package I had to get these at Fry's Electronics, which means that there are the Nte grab-bag Capacitors and I really don't recommend using these for long term repair projects Now the reason I don't recommend Fry's Electronics for long term repairs or more specifically NTE is because you don't actually know what you're getting when you're getting these capacitors in this case This is a jack con capacitor and All we get to see is along the side here where it says high temperature That's the only kind of indication of any of the properties or characteristics of this capacitor other than the rated voltage and Micro farad and we can see on the capacitor that it's also rated negative 25 to 105 But I'm not exactly inspired by the name Jack con Okay. I really wanted to just screen capture this part but OBS Crashes every time I start recording so I'm just gonna shoot off screen Druaga1 style. You'll get the point anyway now Jack con isn't exactly a name brand in capacitors And you don't need any more proof of that than to just read the little company blurb here But I'll just go ahead and summarize it by pointing out copyWRITE down here at the bottom as in WRITE and They do actually have a data sheet for this capacitor, which if it looks blurry to you It's not because of the screen recording the data sheet is a screen capture of a data sheet Which I guess is because they don't want someone stealing their data sheet format which they probably did from nichicon here, and it's Yeah, that's that's rather similar there and it's not just that all data sheets for capacitors Look the same this one for vishay looks pretty different this one for (Kemet?) looks pretty different this one for Panasonic looks somewhat similar, but definitely different these two are just obviously, you know yeah, so anyway, we can look through here and we can see that they rate the Different usual specifications for this type of capacitor and they all seem all the values actually seem pretty good. A little too good if you ask me so like here's one leakage current should be three micro amps the niche econ one is 100 or 40 micro amps That's a little optimistic there so leakage current here should be 4-3 or 100 be at the higher voltage range. Again, this is... well this I didn't point this out. The series is for two different voltage ranges here and it seems like they're using the same number for both whereas all the other suppliers actually use Different values for both 10 micro amps. Yep. So yeah, that's a little optimistic and there's just other stuff like that in here too, but then there are some other things that You may not know about Such as the load life now on the jack con capacitor It's 2,000 hours at 105 degrees Celsius and on the nichicon capacitor it is 12,000 to 20,000 hours based on the temperature so Yeah, the other ones not really that great and you can actually get some higher specced capacitors So here on Mouser you can go ahead and select different things and we can see one here a poly cap Okay, we can go back to that. That was this Kemet here, And this one is it's pretty jamming. We've got a much higher temperature resistance 125 degrees Celsius. And there are some other values I'm not finding them here really quickly scrolling through everything performance character Here we go. So we can see that this life test is only 2000 hours here. But again, this is at 125 degrees Celsius So at 105 or lower it's going to perform much better. And now for the final thing to consider the cost these Nte capacitors from Fry's Electronics were a $1.65 each Now the poly cap here was $1.37 But even the most expensive reasonable capacitors (not this insane one here) are going to be less expensive from a proper parts distributor than these ones at Fry's Electronics that are bargain-basement so you're really really overpaying when you're buying these locally and Yes shipping does add to the cost of these I've heard Aero has free shipping, but I haven't tried that yet I probably will be soon but Anyway, you could get a really nice high-quality Low ESR poly cap for less than the cost of these just ultra generic capacitors from Fry's Electronics so Really don't use those types of capacitors for long term repairs. Just go ahead and do a parts order All right Now before I get these new capacitors on there I need to get in there and clean that off because well, it's not good to leave it on there And that's part of why I mentioned it was day two because it's actually starting to dry out now So I'm just gonna get in there with a q-tip and some 91% isopropanol Try and scrub that off here. I'm doing some good. I would detach this and go rinse it But it's all wire wrapped in place and that's just gonna be a nightmare there's some wires that are wire wrapped and soldered on so it's It's really not designed to come apart and be servicable So it would be a nightmare to try and do it. Look at all that yellow on there. Okay, yeah, that's Obviously much better now Of course now that part of the board puts the rest of the board to shame because the whole thing's disgustingly filthy But I'm gonna save a full teardown and cleaning for a future video. There'll be a recap part two Because yeah I want to get finished with the video is actually working on here And now I'll get the new caps put in place The longer lead is the anode or positive side so we can see we have a positive mark there and a positive mark here So we know which way to put the capacitor in On both sides Alrighty, I'll start off with a little flux on there make these a bit more compliant and let's get them attached And snip all the leads off All right, well that takes care of the recapping portion of the video And like I said, I will come back and replace those with much better capacitors later I just need to get this done now so I can get back to what I was working on but well I have this open I am gonna go ahead and deoxid all of these Potentiometers on here cuz they're really really bad dirts. So dirty and Scratchy Let me get the microphone in there. So you can hear just how bad these are Yeah, that's terrible and the ones on the front of the case are just as bad really the contrast knob has been almost useless for me. It takes me a long time of wiggling it back and forth until I can finally get an adjustment that's working. Now these aren't sealed but they don't really have an easy opening like most other potentiometers do so It's gonna take a little bit of finessing to get it down in there Well, I guess these ones just aren't gonna sound not scratchy no matter what so yeah, at least I can get them clean All right, there we go that's better Now these ones aren't adjustable from the back so they shouldn't really ever need to be moved But I figured since that cap kind of erupted around here It's probably best just go ahead and clean these but I will be moving on to those which you can get to from the back Wow Really, IBM? This wire that wraps around those switches all over on the back was the best solution? Really? Okay On the bright side. These are really easy to get in and clean compared to the other ones. I just did on the downside There's these are multi-turn potentiometers So no idea what these are gonna be set to after the fact Just kind of set it to what feels like the middle Oh that one is so much shorter throw So I may be there yeah, yeah close enough But that switches that's kind of strange. Right, now the ones on the front of the monitor for controlling brightness and contrast And the power switch really aren't that bad to get to there's a hole right here to get in and put some cleaning fluid but you can't move the knob while it's on its face because well You can't and the knobs are actually taking off and the stems Don't go all the way through so I don't think you can reach them either so I'm gonna have to put the whole thing together Again a little bit Because I want to have the main board on here that connects to all of the metal infrastructure So it can lean on its side and then I can Run the fluid down in there have gravity feed it through and put the knobs back on and have it actually be doable Which, uh, means it is time to put this back together. So hmm, let's get started Oh man this thing sucks to work on! Now for the slightly easier part. I need to get these fit Back on. Oh, they're really loose on the back that's not alarming at all Okay, now we can Work on what's on the back side. Oh, that one's super tough Okay, now I can get in there and clean those Actually, you know what, camera's just too much in the way, I'm gonna have to do it off camera. Or you know what? How about I just remove them? That'll work even better Oh, that one's already much better Well, it would be prudent to turn it on before putting it back together, so I guess here that goes That is a very blue screen. And very dark. Okay, well While I have it open, I now know how to adjust the colors. So I guess I get to do that All right. I'm go ahead and use my spudger since it's Non-conductive now, I don't know if blue is bright or green and red or dark But it's gonna be something like that. So here we go You know, I should probably connect this to a 5150 and have some color on the screen Okay so here running the Diagnostics disk that comes with the guide to operations for the 5150 and it has a little color test here now, I think there should be another one. This is color forty columns so if I say yes, I think there'll be a color 80 columns and Then I can Use that and I'm hoping to get a better color demonstration here I'm starting to think I might get gypped All right. Here we go back and I'm giving you guys a pretty much head-on shot here and I've slightly overexposed it This is all maxed out And if I play with the contrast now up here, you can see it did help it's not perfect But it's so much better. Anyway, yeah, this is maxed. So I'm gonna go ahead and calibrate to this All right, there we go to my eyes that looks pretty darn good so I can go ahead and not max that out which is how it should be because you do need to have the Intensified line be a little bit brighter, so I'm not a fan that contrast is getting maxed out now But yeah anyways first color balance goes it looks pretty good so I'm I am happy with that Well, everything's looking good colors balance knobs are much cleaner that you know works So yep time to put it back together Thankfully this parts much easier than trying to get the main boards separated from the CRT That sucked so stupidly designed Unfortunately these pieces that fill in the top here just Completely disintegrated when I took them out this one broke in several places the retention tab's gone. So it just kind of Sits in there and it's the same story for the other one as well. So I don't quite know what I'm gonna do with that Might just squirt some hot glue in there. Just hold them in place. Oh, it looks nice But yeah, that's that's the downside of the brittle yellow plastic, which this looks like it's fine But that's because IBM painted these so underneath they are actually a yellowing plastic Alright, well, that's it. 5153 is all better now. No more capacitor problems. No more weird changing colors It's just ready to rock so Hope this helps out someone again. I do not recommend capacitors from Fry's Electronics Or if you still have one a RadioShack or any Nte products like that just anything in general where you don't get to actually know what you're buying You really need to know what you're getting into because with something like this IBM would have picked, you know, a medium grade capacitor It's not a low-end product so they would have Made at least some kind of effort to put something in there and that was reasonably good and you know what it lasted what 35 years? So hey, they did their job But I want to put something in there that's going to be just the next step above in the end and some capital I just put in there is definitely a step below what IBM would have put in there So yeah, just I'll get better caps later and I will do a proper recap on this Now a little aside if you've ever been curious why with the 5150 shots like this the background is so dark in here it's because this monitor is Ridiculously Reflective so I have to get my lights really high up so that they can't be seen matter of fact You can still kind of see one at the corner right there I can move my hand in front of it and block it and I have to turn off the ambient room lights because if I don't you'd See everything around the room instead of what's on the screen because it reflects so much So yeah, that's why these shots are kind of weird and eerie But I hope this recap video helps someone out and I'll see you later
