I Paid $1,815 for 20 Broken Nintendo Switches - Let's Make Some Money!

I don't know why I do this to myself but I bought 20 more broken Nintendo switches to see if I can fix them and if I can make money let's take them apart I paid a total of one thousand eight hundred and fifteen dollars for this entire lot of 20 units and that comes out to ninety dollars and seventy five cents each there's gonna be three things we do to start the diagnosis on these twenty Nintendo switches the first thing is we're gonna check for power the second thing is we're gonna check the USB C port to see if it's crunched and number three we're gonna check the charge current once we know the charge current that'll give us a hint to what might be going on inside the system and then we'll go inside and see if we can fix it now for everyone's favorite part let's take them apart let's just start with this first one on the top so we'll check for power first for sure no power let's check the USB C charge port I see no problems there and when we plug in the charge cable we get a point to eight point zero eight it's really jumping around there there's nothing else we can tell without taking it apart so we're gonna do that next I'll be using a precision electric screwdriver and I'll leave the link in the description below if you would like that for yourself I find it to be super helpful it saves my wrists from all the twisting and turning and makes it so I can fix a lot more switches in one day [Music] well I can immediately see what the problem is here if you look right here the liquid into indicator label is pink we've got some corrosion down here as well as corrosion down here and over here so anytime I see corrosion on a board the first thing we need to do is get the motherboard out check all the damage clean off all the corrosion and see if there's anything that we can fix on it sometimes I find liquid damage that is easily fixable other times it is very difficult to impossible to fix [Music] [Music] so we've got the main corrosion areas around here no corrosion up here we've definitely got some here and over here now as far as the other side of the board goes I've got a little bit there a little bit there no corrosion up here the game card slot has a lot of corrosion here I can't tell if there's any inside there possibly there's none on the connector this actually might be savable we'll figure that out in a little bit here so I'm actually fairly hopeful on this board I think I might be able to fix it but I got to get all that corrosion cleaned off and then we can test it more and one of the worries you have any time you see corrosion on these is that the liquid gets in here and gets under these chips and corrode them underneath same with this big chip here I don't see that's definitely rusted right here on the case around it but I don't see any problems underneath so I'm hoping at least a little bit I can see underneath I'm hoping that there isn't actually any corrosion under here there's not really any way to know for sure unless you took them off which then you'd have to reball them which is a pain so I'm not gonna take them off I'm gonna hope that they're fine underneath and we'll get the rest of this board cleaned and then we'll see so I've got a fairly clean I'm gonna use my digital multimeter to check for shorts so these are capacitors it should be when I touch one side and not beep when I touch the other side and you can see that all these capacitors are good it beeps when there is very little to no resistance this is just a coil of wire there should be very little resistance which there is and the fuse very little resistance there as well let's check the video chip on the back this is the video chip right here okay everything's normal there so this motherboard actually seemed to clean up clean up okay so I have high hopes for it I'm gonna get it put back installed and see if we can get the battery to charge and also try an own good battery to see if we can get it to start up if you take one of these switches apart before you know that this ribbon cable can be sort of tricky so I'm gonna show you a little trick here that you can do what I do is I take this ribbon cable actually bend it just a little bit so this part is bent down a little bit so then I can fold it in here and you can see it's bent down as it's going into the connector so then I just kind of wiggle it around I don't force it in there just kind of wiggle it around a little bit and there we go now it's back together enough to test let's plug in the battery and see if it turns on okay there we go see what this shows point three one three zero okay we got sort of the same thing so I'm gonna try a known good battery and see if that helps us out any okay now we got a known good battery well let's see what happens point four zero and we had something on the screen let's see if it'll turn on hey there we go this is great news it's also fast charging and there we go now for switch number one we know all it needs is a new battery now so I'm gonna get that battery installed they don't get to put all back together and get it cleaned up and ready for sale of course I didn't forget to put the speakers in I was gonna cut this clip out but I knew if I didn't show it then a bunch of comments we're gonna come in and say you forgot the speakers don't forget the speakers so we got the speaker's installed now I'm ready to replace the battery don't ever use anything metal to pry up a battery yes I am doing that here but don't do this part the way I do it I've replaced a ton of these so I know how much force I can put on them without breaking them without bending them too much so just don't use metal if you're trying to replace these and if you're not comfortable with it or don't know how to do it just don't try it because these can start on fire very easily I'm gonna take some of this foam right here and put on the outside of this battery that'll cushion it inside there and make sure it's not rattling around at all so it doesn't have to be the whole thing and this stuff is actually pretty hard to get up it's not really made to be placed onto another battery but I always use it just because then it's not rattling around inside there [Music] now I've got the foam on here and I put the tape on the back of it so it'll stick down I use Tessa tape for this everything all the parts and tools I use for all of these repairs are on my Amazon Shop the link to that is located in the description so you can get any of the stuff that I use there if you need it and I do get a cut out of that I am Amazon affiliate so just keep that in mind when you buy and I do appreciate you guys buying through my link and supporting this channel helps me buy more random stuff to fix and make videos about so I do appreciate it and there we go I'm gonna double check and make sure it does still work yep this one does have some scratches on the screen a little bit of dirt on it I can clean up to make the screen look a little better but now we just need to clean the thermal paste off of our heat sink and applying new thermal paste put it all back together and we're ready to go [Music] [Music] oK we've got it back together but we do need to test a few more things you need to make sure the joy Kahn's both connect and then I also do want to test the touch screen just to make sure that it's fully working and then I'll do a little more testing off screen that'll take a little bit longer just to make sure it's in good working condition remember this one did have damage on the game card slot as well so let's see if it works or not oh yeah so that works good let's check the controller for connection Helen connects oh that one does not connect and you probably won't be able to see this but I can see right down there there is some corrosion there so I'm gonna get that fixed right now so then we can just call this one totally fixed so I did have to take it all back apart because we need to get this entire rail out so I can clean it good now I thought the screws along here removed and the ribbon cable disconnected this will just pop out like this then there's a little pin in here just push through there we go we're gonna get this piece out give it a nice good cleaning actually this one looks really good oh I took off the wrong one this is the one that's corroded yeah well at least we know this one's good we'll put this one back together and get this one off I'm using a sim tray bit to get the pin out there we go and here we go look at that so here's the problem with our joy con connection okay so that's much better the corrosion is all gone off of here now this part of the pins is not quite as shiny but that is normally not a problem as long as there's no corrosion as long as you get all the corrosion off so the corrosion doesn't keep happening as long as the corrosion stops and it can it's nice and clean then usually that connection in that part will last as long as it normally would there we go and there we go works great oK we've had this apart fixed back together and then apart to fix something else and now it's back together let's test the touchscreen and a few other functions just to make sure all the main functions work and then I'll test the rest off screen so I'll test a few more things off camera but switch number one is fixed that one took a little longer than normal which is pretty typical with liquid damage because there's usually more than one thing that's wrong but the nice thing is all we had to replace it was the battery one down 19 more to go now let's go to switch number two and does it power on of course hey it's whoa it does power on okay cool I just assumed that all of these wouldn't power on controllers work so first the back plastic then all the silver screws and the SD card slot then the metal plate then the heatsink and here we go it actually looks super clean I was thinking maybe there was some sort of problem with it overheating I really don't think it's actually overheating I don't see any problems with the heatsink the heatsink fins the thermal paste or the fan the fan is absolutely clean so this one I'll have to test more off-camera but I see no problems at all so switch number two I don't actually think there's anything wrong with it I'm going to test it a little more off-camera and do a little more extensive testing to take a little longer and I'll come back and let you know if there's anything wrong but right now switch number two is fixed and we fixed two out of twenty let's move on to number three probably a few more broken ones after that right and here is number three let's see if it turns on I can't imagine we're gonna get that lucky again so let's see what happens when we plug a charger into it we've got point three point two two okay this one's sticking there pretty well so let's take it apart and see what's causing the problem alright all the screws are out let's have a look no immediate problems no liquid damage which is good news so everything looks fine so far let's remove the battery connector so then we can test more stuff on the board as you probably figured out by now the first thing I do is test the capacitors around this chip and around this chip that'll tell me if there is any problems on this chip this chip or the video chip on the other side so this capacitor is shorted but it but the actual capacitor is probably not shorted it's probably just the circuit so usually when this capacitor shorted sometimes it can be this chip usually it's the video chip on the other side as you can see all the other chips are fine so what we need to do on this one is take the motherboard out and look at the video chip on the other side and this right here is the video chip we'll test this capacitor and see if it's shorted it normally is when that other capacitor is shorted on the other side and it is shorted so most likely this video chip needs to be replaced I'm going to take this to my microscope and soldering station what you're going to see me do is remove this chip I'm going to use some flux to put around here and that flux will help the solder melt and flow once I apply the heat and then I will test this capacitor to see if it's still shorted and it probably isn't and if that's the case then I'll put on a new video chip and we'll bring it back here and put it back in the switch to see if that'll fix it [Music] so let's see if our short is gone with that chip replaced and it is now let's see if the short is gone from the other side and it is now that I think we have all the shorts fixed all the chips fixed I'm going to connect a battery a good battery to this and then we'll check and see how it's charging and it's charging point four zero and then it goes to one point seven three that's completely normal charging so I think this board is probably fixed now I'm going to get it back in the switch and see if it works and it looks like we've got a normally charging battery so this is good news the only time that this sometimes causes a problem is every wants them all I'll find a battery where it will slow charge but then it won't actually fast charge so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna plug in a known good battery just so I can test the basic functions of this make sure the screen works and whatnot and then we'll put this all back together and keep it on a charger for a while just to make sure that the battery's good and we have our known good battery hooked up and there we go I'm gonna get it all back together and leave it on a charger for several hours maybe even overnight and make sure it charges up and then we can test it further so it looks like switch number three is fixed so far we're three out of three you guys are gonna be great look let's move on to number four so here's number four check for power no power of course USB C port looks fine let's see how it charges we've got point four zero but nothing at all on the screen sometimes point four zero can be a normal slow charge usually it's up at point four six but it can go at point four zero so the problem with this is if it's point four zero if it's slow charging with nothing on the screen I don't know how to fix that I've not found the fix for that yet so I think for this one I'm going to take the back cover off put a known good battery in it check for shorts on the board and then we'll go from there all right let's open it up see if there's any liquid damage no no liquid damage at all everything looks really good so let's check for shorts on the board and see what we find once again we'll check this one up by the charge chip [Music] all right we definitely have a short here so we'll take this motherboard out and check that video chip again see what that one looks like all right let's check this capacitor the charge chip definitely shorted so we need to replace this and hopefully that's all it needs well let's see if the short on the video chip capacitor is gone okay good we're good there let's check the capacitor near the charge chip that one's good and that short is gone now we'll plug the battery in what do you think is it gonna charge normally here we go 2 0 3 9 0 4 0 2 0 now I should fast charge and it's fast charging yes so number 4 is also a success so far this lot is going great we are at 4 out of 4 number 4 I do need to test a little bit more make sure the battery is good and that sort of a thing but so far it looks like the motherboard is performing perfectly so now it's time to move on to number 5 here's number 5 no power point to 1.25 chargers kind of jumping all over stuck at 0.25 what do you think is this gonna be another video chip I think it could be let's take it apart ok and here we go let's see what it looks like on the inside just like the others looks really clean let's get this battery disconnected and let's see if we have any shorts Wow okay so there's it's not actually shorted this time that's pretty strange so none of these are shorted and none of these are shorted we got continuity through the coil and if the fuse is bad there would be nothing there so I'm gonna try known-good battery and see if we get any power that way and we get nothing so nothing happens even with a good battery which makes me wonder it still could be the video chip it's not as likely since there's no shorts on any of the capacitors around the chips but it still could be the video chip so I'm gonna get the motherboard out all the way and then we'll test that so I pulled this ribbon cable up and I do see we've got some sort of liquid damage going on here so that means this connector probably has it all so we need to check this connector if we've got liquid damage on these connectors that can cause no display so you can see there's also some corrosion down in here and same width right here we'll be able to see how much damage there is after the motherboard is totally out oh yeah we definitely got a problem here look at that so that is the back light connector so we got another liquid damaged one okay we've got definitely some a lot of damage right in there and possibly some is another BGA chip so this one could be hard to get all the way clean that could be a problem since there aren't any actual shorts on this I'm gonna plug this battery in and then plug the charge cable in and see what kind of readings we get still at point four zero let's see if it jumps up and fast charges definitely not so that's a bummer it probably means there's some serious shorts on the back of this and most likely this main ship is probably shorted out that being said I'm gonna put this back in and just see if we get any kind of picture when we put it back in with the back light connector and ribbon cable cleaned it might give us enough to get a picture sometimes these will slow charge and just never fast charge if there is damage on the board and that can still work that can be okay but we won't know until we get it back together and see if we get any sort of picture on the screen okay I have it together just enough to test it just bare-bones let's see if it'll turn on definitely doesn't turn on let's check what happens with the charger oh wow it does fast charge now see 1.81 there's just nothing on the screen so since it does fast charge that does give me a little bit of hope I'm gonna put this motherboard under my microscope and check it out and see if I can figure out exactly what's causing the no display so I checked it under the microscope and found that for sure the backlight ribbon cable is definitely bad so if I want to use this front case all half to replace the digitizer at least it is also possible to LCD is bad so what I'm actually gonna do is wait until I get one that's one of these other ones where the motherboard is damaged or not fixable and then I'll plug this motherboard into that and see if it works I did take this motherboard and look under the microscope and found that this chip also has a little bit more corrosion under it so I took a toothbrush and worked on it from each side and trying to tried to get the bristles down inside into the solder balls to clean them off and I think I did pretty well but I won't know for sure until we can test it in another case so for number 5 we're gonna set it aside and wait till we have another switch where the motherboard is not fixable and then we'll just plug this one in and see if this one works correctly so so far we're at least 4 out of 5 maybe 5 out of 5 I'm not totally sure but I have good feeling about this motherboard so we might have fixed 5 out of 5 so far I'll put part number 2 up on your screen says click on that and come hang out with me on part number 2 and see how many I can fix in part 2 thanks so much for watching this video and supporting my channel and I hope you have a good day

Channel: TronicsFix

Views: 763,625

Rating: 4.8849669 out of 5

Keywords: tronicsfix, tronicsfix nintendo switch, nintendo switch, nintendo switch repair, repair, fixing, repair challenge, trying to fix, fixing ebay junk, nintendo switch repair service, tronicsfix switch, nintendo switch repair experience, nintendo switch repair water damage, nintendo switch repair video chip, nintendo switch repair bad battery

Id: EP65185uGiA

Length: 27min 6sec (1626 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 16 2019