I destroyed part of my mill because I needed a flycutter

regular viewers of this channel will know that this CET Chuck has been stuck in my Mill since I got it irregular viewers might know that too but really you guys should just eat some more fiber now I've tried just about everything to get that thing out and it will not budge you can go ahead and leave me a comment let me know what I should have done and I'll reply saying that I already tried it but I'm at the point where I'm ready to result to surgical removal of it I need to make a bigger fly cutter for a project I'm working on and hanging a big chunk of 4140 off of this thing probably isn't the best plan I'd rather make one that mounts directly into the spindle so it's time to destroy this collet Chuck but before I render the mill nonfunctional I should probably make a draw bar since I don't have one cuz this colet Chuck is just that stuck it didn't need one I'm pretty certain this is a piece of a model T4 drive shaft anyway it's going to be better used as draw bar for my mill than it would be rotting away on the River Bank perfect [Applause] [Laughter] [Music] I put this off for a lot longer but now I'm really at the point where I need to get this done taking a shot at drilling this thing out while it's in the mill I'm not real confident it's going to let go but I feel like it's worth a shot if I can knock some out of the middle maybe it'll come loose I'll give this a couple wax but not expecting much we got a carbide parting tool in the vice and we're just going to go in and see if we can't part the end of this off [Music] that's okay I got another one that's certainly not the way I wanted to have to do this since I can get something into the draw bar threads from below now there's a chance I can use this as a puller again not expecting much well I think we're moving over to the lathe I want to set my compound for the taper and the spindle which is a brown and sharp nine probably the best example I have of a brown and sharp nine taper is the center for my dividing head it's got a center hole in the end so if I put a center in there I can hold it but I need a center hole and something in the tail stock too there are a couple of holes through the lead screw to let you access the screws that hold the nut onto the quill you have to get them in exactly the right position and I kind of forgot how this comes apart so it kind of fought me once I got it apart I remembered how you're supposed to take it apart I know I said I've been putting this job off to give you an idea of how long I originally built this steady rest with this job in mind and that was 2 and A2 years ago going to consult my copy of the machinery's handbook it's the 1946 Edition Brown and sharp number nine is 900,000 at the small end and we're going to go 4 in deep with that actually the biggest taper shank drill I have is 273 seconds it's uh 843 so that'll leave me around 30,000 either side we'll work up to this material in the shank on this was pretty hard kind of right on the limit of what I could drill and made some horrible noises oh well we had a problem so I turn this by hand you can see the quill on the tail stock is spinning the key that goes in this slot was mostly sheared off already in some of my videos you could see the tail stock quilt twist a little bit and I think it finally died been meaning to make a new one of these I guess now's the time to do it you can just barely see the little nub of where it was and it's not there anymore I think the old reverse idler shaft for my Jeep transmission properly tempered should be a pretty good material for this work holding is going to be a challenge for this little piece so I think I'm going to use a sacrificial piece of aluminum checking this with Gauge blocks seems like 189 is a pretty tight fit probably shoot for 188 it's 316 nominal normally I just knock this out on the mill quick quickly but that's really not an option right now so it's time to lube up the shaper since I centered the hole in the aluminum fixture I can just flip it take the same amount off both sides if I took off what I think I did I should be at 243 246 not bad 188 knocked a little nub off there did some deburring that is very nice well there's the final result I'm going to put this back together off camera and we'll get back to drilling I was honestly a little surprised in how much this reduced the overall play the tail stock it's a lot nicer now while I won't say that this particular operation is uninteresting it doesn't make for very compelling video because the visibility of it not great [Music] I've run this boring bar out farther than I should have already in order to get this one in there I need a little bit more space so back to drilling I got this cut down to about 5,000 thick before I was able to peel it out I don't think this was coming out another way I got out my inspection CA camera cuz it's really hard to see in there and I think I've still got one piece in the middle and maybe a little bit down at the end there's definitely a piece down at the end and maybe a piece in the middle still let's try doing a little bit of blue on this see if we can figure out where it's hitting that is way more than I needed y right there in hindsight if I had to do this again I would have left I don't know 38 of an inch or so at the end that I didn't drill through at all so I could just whack it out from the top so I did a few more rounds with that and I've gotten to the point where with the collets because they're recessed on the end I can fit the collet in there's still some little bits in there and honestly I'm getting to the point where I'm kind of scared cuz I'm working blind in there it' be pretty easy for me to DB damage the taper of the spindle so I did something uncharacteristically smart I spent the money and waited the time and got the proper size Brown and sharp n reamer so I'm going to go ahead and use this to get the remains of that shank out it's getting a little bit there little by little that's what we want at this point I'm really not sure if there's still something in there that needs to come out or not the only thing that might be it is right there while I've got the compound set for the right angle for a brown and sharp n taper I might as well make some tooling I turned a little Arbor here with a/ in thread it's the same as the draw bar thread and I've got some various bits of old CV axles and parts of Jeep transmission I went ahead and drilled and tapped these for that same/ in thread now I can go ahead and thread these on here it's not going to hold it perfectly concentric but it'll be good enough for a draw bar thread the travel on my compound isn't enough to turn the entire taper in one go but by putting some Sharpie on there and feeding in real slow you can actually get pretty good results [Music] not since that previous setup wasn't really conducive for facing off I put the quill back in the lathe that way anything I turn on here will be concentric to the spindle and I've just got a piece of all thread with a nut on it that I'm using as a draw bar the very observant among you will notice the outside diameter of this is running out a little bit more than it should be after taking it out test fitting the taper I decided to tweak the angle a little bit put it back in the lathe and did that but I figured I could clean up the OD in this setup instead right so the thing I forgot earlier is there's a little set screw in the bottom here and with that backed off this whole thing just kind of slides right in there or it should I had this great idea that I was going to use my dividing head to finish Machining this fly cutter because it's the same taper problem is if I have it tilted up like this there's no room for a draw bar there now because this is a locking taper I should be able to just drop that in there give it a couple Taps and it should stay in well enough the issue with that is I machined this a little bit smaller than it should be so while it fits fine in the spindle and stays the taper on the dividing head is ever so slightly longer so that doesn't seat in there so now I need to figure something else out right I basically knocked up a brown and sharp collet block and by knocked up I mean spent most of the day making that might seem like a lot of work for fixture that I'm only going to use once but actually I'm probably going to use this in the future for making more tooling so I left part of it round so I can stick it in the four jaw Chuck and Center it and I wanted to get a good surface finish here so that I can also run an indicator along there make sure it's in the Chuck straight I didn't leave quite enough room on the back to get like a socketed cap screw in there just because the taper ended up deeper than I thought it would I might try to get a flathead later but since this is a self-locking taper it doesn't really even need it [Music] I'm going to take back what I said about not needing a draw bar because I got to basically the last cut and the thing came loose well I'm going to completely gloss over how terribly that went and just say that I got it done and going to move on to putting some set screws in this well if that seemed like a awful lot of work just to make a fly cutter it's because it was but while I was at it also made a drill chuck Arbor half in End Mill holder Arbor for a 22 mm cutter that one's a involute spline cutter I also made this little Morse taper to sleeve this wasn't too hard to make since I have the reamers for it and miled the keyway in it and now I can use my Morse taper 2 drills and reamers in my milling machine of course we can't end the most convoluted fly cutter build on YouTube without testing the fly cutter got to say I'm really happy with the result and having used the mill a bit without the callit chuck with other tools I can tell the rigidity is really improved I think I'm going to like it I can also say I feel totally justified in putting this off for so long that was tough

Channel: Jeremy Makes Things

Views: 77,189

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Id: d1oR-J7_emQ

Length: 23min 35sec (1415 seconds)

Published: Tue May 14 2024