I ATTEMPT to make a Roll Up Chair… AGAIN...

today i'm finally going to attempt the roll-up chair again you may remember a few months ago i attempted to make a chair that rolls up but i failed um but i learned a ton and i'm ready to attempt again and there were a lot of suggestions from you guys for how to make this actually work the most popular one by far was to drill holes in all the pieces and to use cables to run through all the pieces to really strengthen it a lot of people also suggested different materials to use for the strapping um based on all the issues that i had on the first version i decided to just go back to the drawing board and redesign the whole chair one of the biggest problems that i had was were the angles that i cut on the pieces to create the curves so instead of trying to figure it all out myself i decided to use this website called block layer and it's meant for segmented wood turning all you need to do is plug in the information that you want to have the end product like how big of a radius you want and how many pieces you want it to be made out of and it shows you the angles that you need to cut to get to that desired shape so i plugged it in what i wanted for the bottom curve and also the top curve where the seat meets the back of the chair and that was one of the biggest problems that i had on the first version the part where the seat met the back of the chair the radius was just way too big and it the back was just fell all the way down and it just wasn't a chair so i tried to make that radius as small as it possibly can and i printed out these two shapes that are going to make up those curves and i put those shapes into another program and i came up with this shape here so i think that this is going to get me what i want but another huge mistake that i made on the first version was that i just went for it and cut into my really expensive material before actually figuring everything out and i mentioned at the end of that video that the next time i attempt this i'm going to practice on some pine and a lot of people were like no no don't use pine the compression it's not strong enough don't worry i'm not going to make the whole thing out of pine i was just saying that i'm going to experiment with a lesser expensive wood to figure out all the dimensions that i actually need to cut the pieces on pine first and then once i figure that all out i will then cut into my expensive hardwood that is going to be strong enough for a project like this so that's what i'm going to do now let's begin i found some scrap 2x4s and ripped them to width so that they would mimic the thickness of the wood i plan on using then using a stop block i cut a bunch of pieces to match the length of the pieces i made on the drawing the straight pieces were three inches long some of the suggestions from the first video were to use bigger longer pieces so that the chair will have fewer pieces and there will be more support from the longer wider pieces for the angled pieces i used the paper print out as a guide for where to set up my adjustable fence on my crosscut sled cut one end then use the paper guide again to make a stop block for how long to cut those pieces flip the piece over butt up against the stop and make the cut cool since there will be two different angles for the upper curve and lower curve i repeated the same process for the second set of angled pieces i just want to temporarily hold these pieces together to see if i like the shape tested to see if painter's tape will hold nope so i moved on to something stronger duct tape i think that will do for the inner upper curve though i used some ca glue with accelerator spray to hold it together since i know the duct tape wouldn't hold that curve up let's see if this is a good shape okay so i have a shape that works so really decreasing the size of this circle here making the back more straight up definitely helps so this looks really straight up right now but i'm expecting it to bend i'm expecting some flex so that this will have more of an angle to it now i'm gonna roll it up and see [Music] what that looks like [Music] okay so i think maybe the secret to having that curve stay is to actually glue it we'll see see like that it falls into the curve naturally all right what's next to test ah right the uh side to side movement that i actually didn't discuss so much in the first video let me show you one second here is the original chair now even if this curve would have been correct this chair is not safe to sit in because there is movement side to side from the blocks it's easier to see from this angle so if somebody would lean on the chair from one side to the other the chair would just completely collapse so i want to try to create a connection between the blocks so that it will not collapse when you sit in it so i got inspired from an old build of mine where i used dowels as draw slides and figured i could use the same concept here i will route two curved grooves with a core box bit on either end of the blocks and use a dowel kind of like a spline that prevents the pieces from twisting the dowel fits nicely between the two blocks in the semi-circles and they're not twisting at all but the pieces are free to lift up and out of the way for the roll-up process cool all right now that i got that solved time to move on to how i'm going to attach on the strapping so in the first version i just used screws and i did oh i did staples also right on the strapping and i used screws on the material that i put on top right that's what happened uh it didn't work regardless but what i want to do now is i want to trap the strapping between these blocks and another block of wood so like a block of wood is going to hold it into place and it's going to be sandwiched in between and i think that's going to add a lot of strength because i don't think adhesives are strong enough on just the strapping alone and the screws obviously didn't work either so what i'll do is i'll test out how it's all going to roll up with that extra material that i want to add on top so it's sandwiched in between i figured i wanted the slats to be two inches wide so i cut some half inch plywood into two inch wide blocks using a stop block and then put them all in place with some brads now i notice here that the slats would be touching on the inner curve because of the smaller surface area on the inside of that trapezoid shape so i cut some pieces to be a bit thinner to place there so there's more of an even spacing all around now let's see how it all rolls up should i try to sit on it joking i stared at it for like 20 minutes to see if i like the shape and decided i needed to make it longer at the top and bottom so i added some more pieces unrolled it and started it for another half hour okay i think this is it i think i'm ready for the real thing now before milling up this maple just a quick word from this week's sponsor ariat you may have seen in some of my previous videos that i like to wear a black t-shirt but what you may not know is that i have a pile of about five or six of the same black t-shirt and anytime those shirts get ruined with like too much glue or there's holes in them i replace it with the same exact black t-shirt and i've been doing this for about eight years probably more and then two years ago my favorite shirt company changed the cut of their shirt and i've been on the hunt for a new favorite black t-shirt ever since yesterday i get a package from ariat work and inside a black t-shirt so excited to try it on and i am super happy with how this one fits i think i finally found my new favorite black t-shirt anything that i've ever tried from arie at work has always just been so amazing they're always so thoughtful in their designs of how everything fits and also their material choices this shirt has a little loop inside the pocket for holding a pen or a pencil which is just so thoughtful so i'm going to add a link to my favorite area work items and also a link so you guys can get 10 off on your first order so thank you ariette for making my new favorite black t-shirt and for sponsoring what i do all right time to mill up this maple i decided to go with eight quarter maple so i can get pieces that will be about an inch and three quarters thick i cut this huge piece into chunks so that it's easier for me to manage during the milling process i have a whole separate video on milling rough lumber without a jointer if you're interested in that but basically you get one face flat using a sled flip over get the opposite face flat and parallel to the first face use a jointer jig or straight edge at the table saw to make one edge square to both faces and then rip to width using that freshly squared up edge i knew this maple would burn maple always burns at my table saw so i ripped them a slightly wider than i needed and cleaned up the edges at the planer and brought all the pieces to final width now for the angled pieces i just used the sample block i made earlier as a guide for setting the angle on my saw i knew that that angle worked so why mess with it i could also use it as a guide for setting up my fence so the pieces are the right width well actually once again i knew burning was going to happen so i cut them slightly wider than i needed so it leaves me some room to clean up the burn marks with a hand plane this is the wood river number 62 low angle jack plane and it is my go-to lately i really love this plane i will make sure to link to it and other amazing tools that i love from woodcraft down below i did this in the first version of the chair and a lot of people suggested that i changed the angle when i did this but that wasn't the case i didn't show this in the first video but i kept checking to see if i was on track with my desired angle and i also did the same thing where i rough cut it slightly bigger knowing that i will need to plane it so that definitely was not the issue anyway i love using my hand please but i didn't really have that kind of time for this build so i finished the rest up with my little electric hand planer i don't use this often but when i do i'm really happy that i have it these pieces are all cleaned up and ready to be cut to length which was four inches and once again i used a stop block on my cross cut slides to do this and then i could see how all the pieces would fit together i noticed the inner curve pieces that had a pretty steep angle were not sitting flush to these straight pieces because that angle elongated these sides even though the actual thickness is the same something i should have realized earlier but not a huge deal i just used double sided tape on a sled to bring them down to thickness so that they will be flush with the pieces next to them now for the dowel connection i did a few test cuts on extra pieces i milled up to get the correct fence location and bit height and since these pieces are pretty small i use this little jig that has a cutout of the same shape as the pieces this will keep the pieces pushed towards the fence and help push them along the fence from the back while keeping my hands far away from the bit i severely regret cutting these pieces to size already it would have been so much quicker if i did all this routing first and then cut them to size well now i know to keep the angled pieces stable in that little jig i made i used double sided tape on one of the cutoffs from when i initially cut the angles and placed it on the fence this prevents the pieces from wobbling around always save your cutoffs when working with angles you never know when you're going to need them moving on to the pieces i will use to lock the straps in place i'm going to use walnut because it's strong pretty and will be a nice contrast to the maple i cut the pieces to rough length and milled them up using the same process as before only this time i'm going to resaw them to their final thickness at the bandsaw which is a half inch i do this so i don't waste any material i don't have to and now i just made some veneers i can use for another project awesome i cleaned up the bandsaw cuts at the planer and also cleaned up some half inch square scrap pieces so i could turn them into dowels i also have a whole video on this but basically you use a round over bit on all four sides to create a round dowel from square stock i always find this process so fun next i cut those dowels the same length as the rest of the maple pieces and began the process of gluing them in only on one side i don't have enough clamps to do all of these pieces despite what some of you guys might think from the clamp monsters that i create in other videos so i used a combination of wood glue for lasting strength and ca glue for temporary holding power while the wood glue dries i laid out the shape of the chair so i knew that i was gluing on the correct side and this actually took quite a long time and then i had to do it a whole second time for the second side of the chair good times while the pieces were laid out like this i figured it was a good opportunity to get the length of the strapping that i needed i really tried to close up any gaps by taping all the seams together then i worked on one end of the strapping the strapping will fit around another dowel that will be held in place with the slats i googled how to sew strapping and i came across this box x stitch that google says is really strong so basically you make this box x pattern in one continuous run as you can see i didn't have to let my hand off of this paper to make the shape and just so you guys know this is probably my third or fourth time ever using a sewing machine in my life i thought if i can figure out how to change a bandsaw blade i can figure out how to wind a bobbin and it's actually quite fun anyway i took the end i just sewed and clamped it under a slat then strategically clamped the strapping under more slats around the shape of the chair until i got to the top but i actually wanted to create tension in the strapping so i moved it further down from where i thought it should go mark that off and sewed that side off camera before i could try and assemble it all though the slats need some holes so i used a countersink bit at the drill press and utilized fences so the holes would be on the same location on all of the pieces and then i repeated the same process for pre-drilling the holes in the maple finally assembly time i think i forgot to mention what strapping i was using lots of people suggested i look into u-h-m-w-p-e webbing and that's what this is this particular brand is called a venom and the website said that it's stronger tougher and lighter than anything else so it seemed like this could really work moment of truth okay i'm getting flashbacks from the first video um so as you can see the chair is like crazy drooping and if i try to sit on it that just would not work so what i'm going to need to do i think there is a space over here between the two pieces where there um it's a lot of the strapping is exposed so i think that if i shorten the length of the strapping and shorten it to that width over there that's by this opening hopefully maybe that will work can't believe this is happening again all right i shortened the strapping which was a pain in the neck to take the stitching out and then re-sew but here we go again you can see for the most part i just screwed all the pieces on and i don't have to worry about any tension just yet even by the upper inner curved parts to get the tension on the strapping i loaded on all the pieces minus two sections but making sure to secure the top slat where the top dowels are held in place then i could flip the chair on its side and move all the pieces so that now i have room to install the last two section there's no tension here yet because some pieces are rolled out of the way in the opposite direction that they're supposed to actually go in but when you straighten all the pieces to where they need to go the tension gets created well there's still gaps in the pieces even though i shorten the strapping um yeah this is not safe to sit on i feel like i'm so close so close can't believe i'm gonna say this but i think i'm gonna unscrew everything and try to shorten the strapping again see what happens there what you guys just saw was actually my fourth attempt at shortening the strapping and that's why i sounded so defeated i didn't film all my attempts but let's see how this one goes i already see a problem here um there is another gap down here like i saw before and i don't think i could take off any more of this strapping um it's like super taut already since i do really like the shape that this created and i love the contrast in the wood and the black and everything i'm going to pivot here with this whole thing and i know some of you are going to say how come you didn't sit on it hack me in and sit on it well this is why that's bending way too much this gap another gap just opened up here as i did that all right plan d before completely pivoting i'm going to try one more time with another type of strapping this is a low stretch polyester strapping that i thought i was originally going to use but doing some research on this venom strapping it said that it was super strong and super lightweight so that's why i was sticking with that one try this one now um wish me luck here we go again this time i decided to create tension as i was assembling all the pieces to make it a bit easier i clamped one end to my bench and the opposite end was held in place with my vise i honestly lost count as to how many times i disassembled and assembled this thing but it was actually way more than i filmed and that you're seeing here i was getting quite good at it let's see how this one does okay so actually when i made this strapping to match the other one i made it an inch shorter and it's still stretching this is just not the right material at all um now i'm gonna resort to my different plan can't believe this wait no one more try instead of shortening the strapping i cut a new piece that was wider hoping that this would take up the extra space that was being created from the stretching this was way easier than disassembling the whole thing to shorten the strapping and i wish i thought of this idea earlier still so much flex and it's really dangerous i'm gonna try to sit on it just to show you guys but i could sit no i can't this is gonna collapse if i put any more pressure on yep see because these straps are under so much tension any one of these pieces can just collapse like if you're sitting in it this whole back can just fall down also i was sitting in it before like just on the top here and the bottom piece over here completely curled up and i almost really hurt myself i know that i mentioned before that gluing the inner curve here could have been the solution but really because these straps are pulling so tightly onto all the material i just really don't think this is going to work like this i tried as hard as i could to make these straps work this was just not the right material at all don't have time to get any other material i really one of my other choices was going to be to use leather and i think that that could really work also i might try that again at some point but these straps just like this just do not work so i'm going to not waste all this wood and i'm going to turn this into a cool looking chair a regular sort of chair i really thought the lack of tension was one of my biggest problems with the first version but as it turns out too much tension makes this chair completely unsafe so i'm going to attempt to glue it all together i started with the bottom straight part waited for that to set up moved on to the top portion let that set up then lastly glued the inner curve and put the chair in position to bring all those pieces together while that sets up i just want to show you guys something about the fetch rewards app that i never showed you guys before if you click on the discover tab in the app you can scroll through special offers that will get you extra points that you can redeem for awesome gift cards so before i go shopping i scroll through and look for things that i would already be purchasing like snacks i love these at kind bars so i'll make sure to get them when i go to the supermarket and other things that are on this special offers list as soon as i scan my receipt into the app i get those extra bonus points on things i was already going to buy anyway so it's like clipping coupons without actually having to clip coupons which i think is pretty cool so if you want to check it out i'll drop a link in the description box down below and if you use the code 3x3 custom you will get an extra 3000 bonus points when you download the app this chair defeated me yet again but it's okay because i learned something i learned that too much tension is a bad thing so the whole time when i was building the first version of this i just kept thinking if i was only in my shop i could have created enough tension to attach the pieces and then that would solve all my problems but clearly that did not solve it and it's also super dangerous so i didn't catch it on camera but one of the times when i was uncurling the chair the pieces collapsed on my skin and i have this really weird bruise going on on my arm so once that happened that's when i realized that this is just too dangerous for me to have in my house so i did not want to continue experimenting with this whole thing just too dangerous for my kids so i was thinking that maybe i should have stapled on the strapping on all the pieces and then that maybe like there wouldn't be that like huge gap that was created then there will just be like tiny little small gaps that are created and that would create a better bend than flex but the too much tension was the issue for me that i just didn't want to continue with this i if you saw that i always had the clamps connecting these top two pieces here and i thought that potentially i could just glue those together but the second one could collapse or the third one could collapse or the fourth one could collapse or the bottom pieces could just curl up under any tension and then the whole thing just collapses and then someone cries and it's not good so um this chair i just don't know what the solution is this material was just not the right material perhaps maybe leather would work attach it on with some contact cement and to prevent that whole collapsing situation from happening you could like make some straps and make it like do a loop and that would prevent the whole thing from collapsing and injuring somebody but i don't know i i thought this was going to work so i really don't know if that would work but maybe i'll get around to that at some point maybe not i have a ton of other projects lined up i spent way too much time on this more than i thought that i was going to so i'm not sure if i'm going to get to that anytime soon but i still want to solve it also like i'm still a little bit scared about sitting on this chair if i were to build a chair that was this shape like this this is not the way that i would go about building it at all i don't i'm not too trusting in these glue joints i think that maybe i would like connect all the pieces with some sliding dovetails or something like that to create a strong connection between them that might be cool i don't know um i'm sure you guys are going to have a ton of ideas for what to do to solve this i've seen a few videos where people try to solve it but there's still some of those issues like how is it not collapsing like how are those pieces not rolling up this way or some of these pieces not rolling up down that way as you're trying to get up off the chair um there's just a lot of stuff that's going on here and i'm sure you guys will have a lot of suggestions so as always thank you guys so much for watching and i'll see you on the next one why is it always the silliest things that are so hard to do you

Channel: 3x3Custom - Tamar

Views: 654,351

Keywords: impossible chair, roll up chair, fail, woodworking

Id: E6oZfoMIPw0

Length: 30min 1sec (1801 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 17 2021