Huge Tips on How to Remove A Clearcoat Run / Paint Run

[Music] hi guys so in today's video we're going to be taking a look at removing a paint run or a clear coat run from a panel now this weekend that's just gone i've done a lot of training days and we've got a panel here that has got a nice paint clear coat run on the top corner now as you can see it goes right across the edge there and there's also a bit of a sag on that top corner there so a few of you guys have asked um over the time i've had the channel to do a video on removing a clear coat run but i don't always have a chance and have the time so i thought today well i've got these test panels here and these are just like scrap test panels that we use for training days then i'd use this to give a bit of a demonstration on how to remove a paint run and also the stuff that we need to use in order to remove one cleanly and effectively so that you can't tell it was there when it was done so let's start off with the kit that you need to actually remove the run now the bruise an optional extra but it's always good to have a brew on the go so there's two things that we can use to actually remove the run to start off with one you can use like the old school razor blade and tape method which does work really well and it's really effective or you can use one of the tungsten blocks which there's a few films like festool and mercur and a few people like that to do them and i will leave links in the description to everything that i've got on the table as well so you guys can find anything if you need it now after we've done that stage we're going to need a little bit of 1000 wet flap or some 1500 wet flat whichever you've got we've got some 2000 wet flat for finishing and then i've got a soft sia um 3000 foam pad so i'm using these these days instead of the 3m trisax because these aren't like 60 70 quid a box they're only like 25 quid for 10 so these are a lot more cost effective and i find that these work just as well and they last a little bit longer i'm going to need a da for the pad and a cloth to use for the wet part and obviously a bottle of water now to cut it up afterwards i'm going to be using the multi-mix multi-cut um really good cutting compound i found it works really well i've had no issues with this whatsoever i was given this as a sample to try and test out see what i thought to it and i do really like this and again i'll leave links in the description to that i'm using the rotary polisher with the roots head and also we've got a spare microfiber for the polishing side of it so we've got separate microfibers so we can keep one for the wet side and one for the dry side and the polishing side so that as we go along we can stop any cross contamination or any marking on the panel so i'm going to go through the steps i'm going to set the camera up on the tripod and then i will talk you through the steps of what i'm doing and how i'm doing it and things to watch out for and also be careful of while you're removing a run if done right then you'll never know it was there but there is a lot of easy mistakes that you could make that could completely mess the panel up and then you'd have to repay it so we'll go through every stage as we go along so the first thing we're going to take a look at is the blade with the taped ends now the taped ends are for one to stop the edges scratching the surface so we only use the middle of the blade and also just to leave a tiny bit of an air gap between what effectively is the blade in the panel now you should always have the blade facing away from you and then scrape towards you now that's not a safety thing it basically just if you tried to push it the opposite way and cut the run off rather than scraping it off you would dig the blade into the panel and you would end up with a lot of problems and as you can see with these kind of methods it will only take the high spot off the top of the run like it is doing there personally i prefer to start off with the tungsten block now i'm doing the same again the block itself is angled away from me and then i am pulling it towards me so we're literally just gently scraping the surface now you want to do this with extremely light pressure and just let the block itself do the work rather than really digging in and trying to scrape the surface off now what you don't want to do and this is a big no-no is push the opposite way now that can dig in really easily take a big chunk out or put a big gouge into the clear coat and then you can end up with huge issues now as long as you look after these tungsten blocks these will last a very long time this particular one here that i'm using i've had this probably like three four years um i've got a couple of these small ones they last really really well um you need to be exceptionally careful because if you drop them and it damages the sharp edges then obviously they're knackered and there's no way of re-facing the renovation because these are majorly hard but as you can see we can just use this just very gently and it'll only pick up the high spot it won't pick up the rest of the panel now whether it's a run or a nib you could use one of these and as you can see there as i'm scraping along now that area where that run was gone quite large but quite flat now when i have finished with the tungsten block i like to use the blade just to go across and it just helps to block that in a little bit flatter because the blade's got the slightly longer edge on it again just light pressure i'm just scraping along i'm letting the blade scrape this off itself and now you can see that where the run was expanding out into a flat spot that's a lot larger now when you're getting towards that stage that tells me that the run is pretty much just about gone now obviously scraping this with the blade or the block is gonna be quite harsh and it'll only ever be so accurate as far as getting this out flat goes now i've seen some people try like a filler method personally not a massive fan of that i'm not saying that it doesn't work um i know for some people they like it and it works but for me doing it this way it keeps everything dry i can see everything really easily and i know when this run is pretty much 99 cut out and what i'm aiming for realistically is for this run to be about 95 cut out like so so we've got a wide area now rather than at the opposite end we've got a thin area um we've got a wide area now where that's taken out so now what we're going to do is we're going to take a double density block we're just going to or you can use like a hard rubber block if you want i'm going to take some 1000 wet flat just a light bit of water again personally i don't use soap in my water i just use water um and we're just going to block across where that sag was there and also across the run where it was in the middle now we're going to block this out and we can do it up and down you can do it round around you can do whichever way you want but you want to try and focus obviously on the high spot of the run so you put in the main part of the block always across the top of that run you don't want to be going really like you know starting from underneath it and then going from over the top of it you want to try and keep your block constantly the middle of the block over where that high spot was and just gently work it down now you could work it down a little bit like i did there dry it off check it if you wanted to and then wet flat a bit more but as you get a little bit more confident people don't realize that two coats of clear coat has got quite a lot of clear coat there there's quite a lot of play in room when it comes to defects a lot of people think that you know you've got a run the job's knackered now in base coat base cup runs are a pain to get rid of because you have to fully get the base coat really dry and then base coat's not really nice to sand down it can leave a lot of problems when you're trying to sand it down and then obviously you've got to rebase it and then you can get onto the clear coat stage whereas with clear i find even if you get a run in your first coat let that dry off a lot before you put the second coat on give it a real good flash off put your second coat on make sure you've got those two good coats and there'll be plenty of wiggle room in that clear coat thickness to take it off like we're doing here now i've just sprayed that with water so we can take a little look to see how everything's looking and that's looking like i've cut that out pretty nicely so as far as that goes i'm now ready to go on to the next stage now obviously we've blocked this and then we've gone with a thousand for a block so we need to start now refining this down so we can get this polish back up because polishing this back up from a p 1000 would be impossible now i'm just using the merka 2000 um i've actually switched recently from the 3m to the merka because i can get two packs of this from sp supplies for the price of what i can normally buy one of the 3m it has got a slight harsher cut than the 3m microphone but i've got to be honest with either the multi-mix multi-cut or the capsi cutting compound and both available from sp suppliers you will have no problem just cutting this straight up from a 2000 you could completely skip the 3 000 step if you wanted to but we always like to refine it that little bit more now i gave that a real real good going over there with the 2000 because you need to make sure that you've got rid of all those 1000 scratches now if you're doing it with say a 1500 after you've used your block and then you go to 2000 it won't take quite as much but you always want to make sure you get rid of those harsher deeper scratches again that's why i'm choosing to use the 3000 on this for this demonstration because it's quite a dark color and we want to make sure that we've refined all these scratches back so we've got a nice easily polishable layer on the surface of this paint so i've just run over that with the sia 3000 soft foam pad um these do actually cut really well and for quite a long time i use these on the bay window camper van that i did and i only used two pads for the whole van and about this stage in the job it's definitely time for a swig of your brew now after you've had your brew it's time to get the multi-cup multi-compound out sorry multi-mix multi-cut compound out um you don't need a massive amount of this i put too much on this panel when i did this um because it was a fresh bit of panel and as you'll see i started to spray it about a lot when i started off so you could probably get away if i'm honest with you with about half that amount on the panel um it's just that i'd freshly clean this head out as well so it was nice and clean and free from any polish so i was going with a dry head and i want to make sure there's plenty of lubricant on there and with it not being on the car it's not too much of an issue now you want to make sure that you do this as methodically as you paint a panel which is one thing that i was teaching to one guy in one of my training days the other day that when i'm polishing i try and keep a nice overlap um and a nice overlap of strokes like when you're painting and you're doing a 50 overlap try and keep the same sort of overlap when you're polishing that will mean that as you're going across a panel if you go around say the edges first which is what i normally do and then you give a nice overlap with a couple of passes across the panel then fingers crossed once you've wiped it down like i'm doing here you won't have missed any or you know if it's all slightly dull or it'll all be fully glossed like this one is here so that's what we started off with um i'd say it's an average run it's not a massive run it's not a small run you know that one there obviously is a little bit bigger than just your average sag but it's an everyday sort of thing and that is then once it's done now one thing to always know is obviously you are going to remove the peel so if you do go removing a run you are going to end up with a flat spot on the panel so you'd have to blend that out into the rest of the panel and try and you know feather it out a little bit peel wise but for me that's my process of getting rid of a clear cut run i hope some of you guys found that informative and i will leave links in the description to everything we've used in the video that's it for me for today guys and i'll see you again soon bye for now [Music] you

Channel: Tony's Refinishing

Views: 114,677

Keywords: tony's refinishing, passion 4 paint, #passion4paint, SPRAY GUN, painting, spraying, wondershare filmora x, restoration, wow primer, walcom, spray gun, motivated painters, spray painting for beginners, how to, how to remove a clearcoat run, how to remove a run, how to remove a run in paint, car bodywork, clear coat run removal

Id: n3GVFpcC7Aw

Length: 12min 48sec (768 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 19 2021