How to wire a garage. Garage electrics installation. Sockets, lighting, conduit, consumer unit!

bottling house around the house in this video I'm going to show you how I wire up my garage electrics this particular installation I'm using a garage consumer unit that's going to have power fed from the consumer unit in the house then from the garage consume unit we'll have two circuits one radial circuit to the lighting and one radial circuit to the sockets so if you want to find out more then stick around to give you a quick summary of the project a few years ago when I renovated my house I didn't actually get on with doing the garage electrics however I did run in a couple of 2.5 millimeter cables into the garage here now these went from the consume unit in the house not connected up but they went through the floorboards and I brought them out by here into the garage ready in preparation for this exact moment now my original plan by bringing two cables was to have a ring circuit in the garage and then run a few Spur off that and use that to switch on the fuse spur to power up my lighting however since then I've completely changed my mind and I've gone down the garage consumer unit option now the reason for this is I think it's just a slightly nicer installation it means I can isolate the power from inside the garage without having to go back into the house and turn it off on the consumer unit in there but it did leave me with one dilemma in that the cables have run a 2.5 millimeter ideally had I known I was doing it this way I probably would have run a six millimeter cable and then we could have used a 32 amp MCB on the consumer unit in the garage now the way I'm doing it I'm going to take it off a 20 amp MCB in the house and then I'm going to use a 16 amp MCB on the consumer unit in the garage for the sockets I can then use a 6 amp MCB for the circuit for the lights so in this installation I'm going to be using a 20 millimeter round plastic conduit this particular brand is Tower you can use any brand you want and these are the sort of fittings I'm going to be using for the bends and that kind of thing but we'll take a closer look at that later in the video so the first thing for me to do now is get a junction box over this entry point for the cable and start to root my conduit down the wall and lay out exactly where it's going I can then screw my consumer unit my sockets and my switches to the wall join them all up Loosely and then we can look to feed the cable through just before we get started I thought I'd show you my consumer unit this is a British general consumer unit it's got an rcd A 32 amp MCB and a 6 amp MCB as mentioned earlier the 6 amp is going to be used for my lighting circuit the 32 amp I'm not going to use but I have actually bought a 16 amp MCB which will fit in that slot there because this is a three-way consumer unit this particular consumer unit has got knockouts on the top and the side which is useful because that will help me in the installation that I'm going to carry out today so I'm going to take this apart level up in position on the wall and screw it into place and for fixing to the wall I'm going to be using the Fischer dual power plugs all the way through this project I'm going to be using these gold screw screws finally the switch I'm using is a metal clad two-way switch and a matching metal clad double socket don't forget I'll put links to all the products and tools I use in the description section below the first thing I've got to do here is line up my switch with my consumer unit now the reason for this is this has got a side knockout and I'm coming out the side straight to the switch so I need to put the switch exactly where I want it and then I'm going to place the consume unit bang on adjacent to it like that so that I get a nice level bit of conduit and cable straight across to the switch now before you get Hasty and do this you've got to be careful especially on an old house like mine with this old crumbly brick the reason for that is you want to make sure that all your fixings in the back of this box are into solid brick not just catching the edge otherwise the brick is going to come away you're going to have terrible trouble fixing this to the wall so somewhere by there is good then you want to make sure that when you line this up the fixings in here are also in the solid brick because I actually just did it where I had that perfectly over one brick and I thought that would be good and then when you line that up you notice that the top fixings there are straight on that mortar joint and you don't want that trust me not in this house so the bit of fiddling around I've got my mark there I'm actually going to place this across a mortar joint so I get a good fix in in the switch and then when I line that up next to there I get a good fixing straight into brick on the top and the bottom of the consumer unit as well fair play to this consumer unit it has got five different fixing points which is really good some of them don't so that's a bonus on the back of the switch and the sockets all the holes are pre-drilled in the consumer unit you have to drill out the ones you want and as this is a metal consumer unit you need to use a metal HSS drill bit so you can see I'm just drawing a pencil Mark through all the holes in the back box including the middle ones which I probably won't use but it just means all the marks are on the wall if I need them so there they are I colored the whole circle in now with my six millimeter SDS drill bit in my SDS drill I can now drill those holes and put some plugs in the wall inside it's making a little mess down there I'm going to use the good old Henry Hoover and hold it underneath while I'm Drilling foreign plugs on the wall I'm just going to tap them in with a hammer he chose to go with the gold screw 4 by 40 millimeter screws the reason for that is that a perfect size to fit into that wall plug but also when you place them through this particular socket head is perfect and sits nicely in that hole and 40 mil is also a good depth the other plugs are 30 with a little bit of thickness on here and a little bit more depth I could drive this on through the plug and give a nice firm fixing I tend to poke the screw into the water pump first like that oh and they use the impact driver to do this later in the video if this is going a bit slow one mistake I haven't Tapped Out The Knockout on the top so let's take this back off and start again so not to scratch it I'm just going to place it on a bit of cardboard just be careful when you do this because you can get sharp edges on these and give you a little cut so let's try again you can see with the impact driver just a little bit quicker [Music] you may find this a bit odd but I've not actually used a level on this and because this house is so old a lot of the brickwork is slightly out where it's settled and whatnot and often you find the brick mortar joints if you stick a level on it it won't be perfectly level so it's what I'm actually doing is go in with the line of the bricks because if I actually went against that and went perfectly level and it was slightly out it would look really odd on the wall so sometimes doing stuff by eye is a little bit better that way it's going to run with the line of the bricks it's all going to look uniformed and together now here I'm just using this female conjure adapter again this particular brand is Tower but you can use any one you want and this just screws into there like that and what we do is place that up inside the socket place this bit over the top like that and that stops any dust or muck penetrating and then your conduit sits nicely in the top of that the other nice thing about these is it lines the inside with plastic so it acts a bit like a grommet and gets rid of that sharp metal Edge when you're running your cable through now with an HSS drill bit I'm going to drill out these holes and we'll pop some plugs and screws in this and secure it to the wall foreign just give it a good smack with a screwdriver on that weak point just Chuck that out nice and neat we can now do that to the other side so I've given a nice Hoover and a clean I'm just going to put my female adapter in the bottom a little bit of paint to come off there and then I'm going to do the same in the side my LCD back by there for now just in the middle to give me access to these screw holes so I actually just remembered that I had one knocker here that needed doing so again I'm gonna put my female adapter on there the reason I'm doing this now is so that I can line it up perfectly with the consumer unit before marking it off so I'm just going to hold those up to the lines that I drew earlier that was about 16 centimeters foreign don't forget I'll put links to all the tools I use in the description section below so now taking my cut length according to it I can push that into the consumer unit push it down into the socket as far as it'll go now I can line the consumer unit up level and make sure this length of conjure is level so it all looks nice just like last time I'm coloring the whole shape of the hole in just so I know where I got room to maneuver with the drill just like last time tap the plugs into the wall I particularly like about these plugs is that if you drill a hole a bit deeper for a longer screw they've got this overhang on the top so they won't push too far into the wall and that means when you're driving your screw in it won't move back and forth it's nicely like that so I'm just doing these top ones up Loosely first because they're the ones with more adjustments thankfully it looks like my holes have gone in perfectly with the plugs there you go I'm happy with that so now I'll tighten up these ones that's lovely just blow out any dust and I've just saw a dump stand on these by accident I'm going to place them back in here to keep them safe as I said earlier just clip those over the top of the thin bar like that and pop the clips up underneath so now for the next socket I've just done exactly the same thing with this female adapter on this socket I place the length of conduit in I place this onto the wall exactly where I want it over there and then I've marked where the conjure it passes the socket exactly where I need it I don't cut it down to size I know it's the right length and by doing it this way I don't even need a measuring tape I just place the socket on the wall and I just use the length of conduit as the marker mark it off on the Conduit and then cut it so we're just going to place that into there when I come over here place it into my female adapter on this socket as per the other ones now I'm going to line that up exactly the same as the others make sure it looks nice and level and then Mark my holes and one thing I haven't showed you yet in these clips and these to clip the conduit to the wall you've got two screws by there which basically Hold the top to the back and then if you look inside there on the back you just need to drill one hole to put a screw through there with your wall plug as before and that pulls this tight to the wall a bit like this one you can see there when you tighten it up it keeps that nice and firm we've done all the flexing of the conduit we need to so we can now tighten them back up just so you can see what we've done so far and give you a general idea of what I'm about to do now off camera I've got the consumer unit female adapters into the socket this will be a radial circuit and we're going to go across there we've got one bracket that I just showed you how to fit if we keep moving across you can see my other bracket and the way we're going to consider all these lengths of conduit is exactly the same we'll make sure we drill both holes before we tighten them all up so we've got that flexibility in the conduit and then back into another socket down there I'm also going to run the conduit right across all the rafters as well everything's going to be in conduit so it all looks nice and neat again female adapters one out of the consumer unit into the switch and that's going to take my feed up to my lights I'm also going to run a three core on Earth cable eight to there across the top right the way down it means I can turn the lights on and off from that end of the garage or this end of the garage According to which end they come in and which way is easier so I think I pretty much shown you the majority of the adapters and the fixings that I'm using and how we fix them to the wall so I'm going to carry on now I'll come back in a bit when we come to something a bit different so don't a little bit more work you can see along there I've gone right the way to the end socket over there and then as we go up I've gone there I'll put a little elbow on I'm ready to go up now across the rafters in the roof but before I do that I have to nip down the screw fix and get a new part which I forgotten the other day and where my cables are coming from the house through into the garage I'm gonna have to terminate one of them there cut it down I'll put a connector block on that and like I said these aren't live they're not connected to the consumer unit there's just two cables hanging down by my consumer unit in the house but the other one which I'm going to use for my consumer unit I'm going to put a junction box around it and I'll show you that now so this is a junction box it's got a cover with a little gasket I've taken the lid off with the two screws and then it's what I got to do with this is screw this to the wall using these two holes in the back or in fact let's say there's holes you've got to punch them through yourself or put a drill through them but there are little depressions there to use so what I'm gonna have to do because my entry is coming from the back of the wall through there I'm going to cut a little hole out in the back of this in order to do that I'm just using a little hole saw like this so I'm gonna hopefully drill through there in the center create a nice neat hole then we can place that over the cable that's coming in the wall put the cap over the top and then the cable can run off through this exit hole here we've got a nice neat hole now for that cable entry so you can see with the junction box like all the other fixings I've lined it up where I want it Mark the holes drilled the holes plugs two screws one by there one at the top then the one cable I've got here I've actually fed through there already and I'm going to do that bit by bit as I add the conduit and the female connectors until I get right the way across there and down to my consumer unit you can see there I've got the length of conduit up the wall now from the socket I've gone into three elbows I'm gonna get these brackets on I've just used the impact driver to drive a screw through that little bracket there I'm going to space a few of these evenly across this rafter until we get to the other side then we can go down with the other length of conduit before we finish for today I'll show you where I'm at now up there we've got our one-way junction box we've got the cable which I've yet to terminate and then we've got the cable running from the consumer unit or while it will be running from the consumer unit not quite yet it's going through this conduit all the way across the wall and down into my consumer unit I've just rolled that up for now it's an absolute Surplus there I don't need all that but uh I'll cut that off tomorrow and here we got the conduit which is going to take my power feed to the switch now in this situation I'm not doing a ceiling Rose Arrangement we're actually going to put the Power direct from the switch to the light that'll become clear when I do it then underneath we've got the conduit going down this is going to feed the first socket in the radial circuit and then pretty much daisy chain so from that socket we go over to that socket and from that one we go over to the next socket by there then you can see here I've lined this up with my rafter at the top so it goes straight up I've used two elbows to bring it round that wall plate there and then another elbow to sit it up on the rafter if you take a look up there that looks like it's not level now that's because my Rafters are actually sloping so what I've tried to do is take that conjure as level as possible it gives the impression that it's not level but it's the rafters that aren't level because they've got a slope on the roof if you are in interested in how I built this garage roof I've done a video on that and a link to that video will pop up on the screen now we're going down another elbow straight down into my socket and then it's going to go back up and across that wall plate right the way around there then I'm eventually going to put a socket over there hopefully we'll get that done tomorrow so it's the next day I'm back I'm in a 16 year old t-shirt today I think as opposed to the 18 year old t-shirt I had on yesterday reused before you recycle I don't know if any of you have noticed that I'm shamelessly promoting my other channel Pace out of the house anyway if you take a look up here I showed you this at the end of yesterday now on a fresh head I've come back this morning I'm going to change this corner bit there for a three-way junction box and the reason for that is I need to run a cable that way so off camera I've just added that three-way junction box and I've extended a little bit of Contour on the other side I'll just show you that now ecology is a bit dark in here but you can see now that conduit is going up to the socket it's going to allow me to carry on my radial circuit on the sockets in that direction now if you have a look at this ends what I actually had to do is extend this little length of conduit and I had to reduce the length of this one and the only reason for that is you can see that comes down a little bit below the wall plate I've done that on purpose because I need to run another length of conduit underneath that wall plate which is going to come down there and that's going to be for the lighting switch one more thing I wanted to show you quickly which I'm not sure if I showed you earlier in the video is while I'm doing this I'm just leaving one screw out I'm leaving one screw loose and that means when I'm bringing this conjure on and off I could just flip that bracket out like that and that way I can keep removing it cutting it down to size and to hold it in place just flip it back on there's no point securing all this up until the end or otherwise it'll absolutely do your editing because you'll be undoing these screws doing them back up and you're probably more in dangerous stripping the threads or something or breaking the bracket if you do that I've run this conduit over here with my Clips again leaving them loose now because this is fiddly and I can't be bothered to move all this stuff off this shelf to measure in there without a measuring tape what I've done is taken my next length of conduit I've added the angle bend on the end already open this up into the corner where you want it I've then marked a line where it meets the other length of corn sure that's already fixed on the wall so if you look here that's a coupler there's all you literally do with that is place it over your length of conduit and that's it and then the other length of conduit goes in it joins them together so if you take your coupler you place it on the end of your conduit I Mark a line there with a pencil you know now that that length there you need to keep on your conjure okay because that's going inside there so if we multiply that length I've marked there by two and to do that without using a measuring tape I'm going to apply that Mark here to another length of conduit like that and then I'm going to shuffle it on to the end of the conduit like that and I'm going to place another Mark by there now that is the length we need to keep inside this coupler so now if you place that coupler on the end of that line you can see that this bit that's left is overhang there that is the bit that we need to take off the length of conduit we just measured so let's cut that down and see if it actually works so with these like I showed you earlier just give it a good tap I'll knock out I find it better to leave the cover on when you do it because it just gives us a bit more strength I know it's the other one trying to bend a bit if you hit them too hard then I can take the cover off being careful not to cut yourself on the shards just pull on out like so the other thing I've been doing is placing these screws back into here like that the only reason I'm doing that is so that I don't lose the screws I was going to place this socket a little higher but on reflection I want to put an outside socket on this at a later date with a fuse spur something I'll be showing you in another video but for now if I put that by there it's going to be just the right high toe side not too low not too high the other thing to mention is positioning on the wall I was also going to move our socket a bit further over on the inside but again I thought I'd come and check now this is my gate to the driveway and I don't want this behind that gate so I thought it makes sense to have it somewhere there so when this gate is open I'm using that socket for say and on the pressure washer or something for the car then it means it's still accessible and not tucked away behind the gate now I'm always leaving these just slightly loose I can tighten them up later because if the conduit's in place and I want to remove it it's a lot easier to undo this and just slide it that way because obviously the female bit goes inside so you are able to slide that off as if it's up too tight you've really got to get a spanner underneath then it's quite hard to get your fingers on it and this is where again I just need to pop that into there I need to bring my conduit across from the other side over there meet it up elbow joint measure it off trim it down get it all into place so I'm going to do that off camera again because it's pretty boring it's exactly the same as I've been doing all the way around so a slightly closer look at that we've got a socket four plugs in the wall with four screws that's nice and solid female adapter into conduit we've got a bracket there like I said I may add another one up there later on then we've got our 90 degree right across into the corner and then back around is that length of conduit we fitted earlier so that's all sorted now beautiful this is what I've just been doing up there so I've done the conjure all the way across the top now you'll notice now as well I didn't actually screw up into the wall plate up there I wanted to go underneath up into the wall plate the reason for that is this junction box actually sits the conduit down a bit now if I tried to screw up to the underside of the Timber with these brackets it actually bowed the conduit up first I just didn't like the look of it I just thought to keep it neat I've just run that completely parallel with the other length of conduit so it looks nice and neat but it did mean drilling into the wall which I didn't want to do again because it's getting on my nerves it's messy it's loud and it's just hard to work but there we go it is what it is and we come across there you can see this now carries on on its own and this was where I brought this one slightly lower than the wall plate I mentioned before I adjusted it is so that this conduit could run straight across the top of it like that then from that elbow straight down to my switch now you'll notice there there's no bracket on that one and we got the same over on that side that's why I got to go and buy a few brackets and put them where they're missing at the moment but I just tried the space to make so I could get the majority of the conduit done for today so I'm back and believe it are not a whole week has passed since I was last day in the garage since you last saw me I have bought five packs of Clips so I keep calling them Clips I should correct myself here they're actually called Saddles these things holding all the conjuring I call them Clips so forgive me for my poor use of language I'm gonna quickly show you the cable rods I'm using and these are antec 10 piece one meter cable access kit that's what they call them all right so this is it comes in a tube I'll just go back this you can see it all and then inside you get these bits here so you get 10 of these and on the ends on one end you've got that which is like a male adapter with a thread on the other end you get a female adapter now no electricians obviously use these so I hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs but you can push these through and you can pop a bit of insulation tape or something on the end with your cable Rod it through and obviously when you get to the end of the conduit or even floorboards are where I found them really useful over the years you just thread them together like that and carry on now and I don't know what they made or maybe fiberglass or something so I wouldn't bend them too much but you know you can do that with them just to quickly show you some of the other accessories you've got this here which is like an intermediate piece now that will bend completely so if you've got sharp Bend you can add that between two rods came with a hook and there's a few other pieces anyway but as what I'll do is I'll put a link to these rods in the description section below and don't forget I'll put a link to all the tools and products I use in this video in the description section below as well so if you're doing something similar head down there and you can see what I used so you've got three sheath wires and one of them is left and sheath which is the one that you use for your Earth or your CPC and this is the cable that I'm going to use to run from the one light switch here to the light switch over there by having the four wires inside this is how we make the connection that enables me to turn the lights on from one end of the room or the other with alternating switches I'll show you how to do all that later in the video so using this cable I'm going to sit it flat with my little Rod that I just showed you I'm going to get some insulation tape I'm just going to simply pull that around the end like that into a nice cone shape so it doesn't get caught on anything as we go through and then just to make sure it's secure I'm just going to tape it down a little bit like that that should be enough so I'm going to screw the next one on foreign so I'm just going to take this length of conduit off here which I mentioned earlier by removing the female adapter there now I've got that cable you can see there just poking through so it's held in place but you can see now I've just hooked that into there so when I pull these rods back that direction the way I just put them in it can't pull this cable back out and then once these are out the way I can start to drag this down here where I need it so I'm back at the other end again now I want to make life easier with the conduit pull back there I'm able to kind of pull the cable and then retract the conduit like that and then pull it down a bit and then do the same because this one's quite wide and it sticks in the conduit it's a lot easier to do that that's the one we've just pulled through and you can see it goes down into this socket and that's plenty there I don't want to waste too much because I think I'm a bit limited to what I got here so we'll go back up the other end and see if we've got enough so it turns out I've got plenty enough for the Three core in Earth so that's fine so I've left that hang on the other side for now because what I'm going to do here is run a little bit of my lighting cable now the lighting cable if you take a look at the end of that that's three cores so you get one that's in sheath that's again your Earth or your CPC and then the other two live in neutral but this is a 1.5 millimeter cable you could use one millimeter cable for this it's running off a six amp MCB on the consumer unit like I said this is for the lighting circuit so first of all I'm going to run a little bit from the consumer unit into the switch here that's the bit that's going to power the lights so it's going to run direct power to the switch then from there that's going to power the lights so in case you haven't had a good look at the setup I got in the corner this is kind of the top bit I got in the corner there's a few angles on this so what I'm going to do is take this apart [Applause] they have got inspections on these as well the problem you've got is when you do this it does bend the cable a bit which is going to make it a bit harder in a minute to do everything but I'm sure all these parts loose bit by bit like that as you can see now I've got all these bits loose on there so I can connect them together back in place make sure I've got the right length of cable and Carry On from there okay so if you look quickly now I just put a saddle on there temporarily just to take the weight of that cable there while all this length of conduit is in place in those angles because like I said I've got to put a length on there and secure it all up at a later point in the project but for now you can see the lightning cable is in Three Corner Earth is in there so I can put the lid on that soon this is coming back down here where we were earlier and now we can put it through the final length of conduit get the two cables place them perfectly flat with each other and just squeeze them nice and straight or otherwise you'll have problems getting through the conduit and then I'm just going to feed it through and that is going up an absolute treat there we go the one thing I may have to do here is take this box off the wall to get the cables so I'll see now foreign off the ceiling which I had clipped on up there on the rafter and then it's all I'm doing is on my awkward bends is I'm feeding them up one by one the only way you can do it really unless you've got any better ideas I'm all ears please put that in the comments below but like before now we have to take this female part out of my adapter conduit adapter and then I should be able to push this up through the conduit obviously the more you've worked this cable the harder it is to feed to the conduit because it starts to get these little bends in it whereas when it's straight off the Reel it's much easier but again just one of those things that are overcome [Music] and this one we might get lucky I'll see now yeah there we go a bit of flexibility in the top of that one so straight through same again just putting the thread of the adapter over the cable back up into the adapter screw it nice and tight these are on the junction boxes my three-way and two-way junction boxes and they came I think I showed you earlier in the video anyway they came with this plastic cover and they come with a nice rubber gasket as well which makes it nice and dust tight and I assume water tight as well maybe if you use the adhesive on the joints of the plastic which I haven't it's all indoor and they're all still loose you can turn them if you need to but yeah so I'm gonna go and put all those on now finish off the Saddles and I'll see you in a minute the video we have this junction box and this is where the power comes from the consumer unit in the house and I had two cables that I ran in years ago and the one cable is completely redundant it's this one here now I don't need all that length so what I'm going to do is cut a bit off here I'm going to strip the cable now and I'm going to put some connector blocks on the end and the reason for this is just to safely terminate the ends of the cables the ones I'm using are these here they're just the way you go 773 push fits and the reason I'm using these is just because I've got plenty of them left over in my boxer they're the perfect solution for this they pop on the end like that and job done and they're nice and small as well so they're not going to take up too much room in there [Applause] foreign off that I've got a usable cable from the consumer unit to power something else like possibly my shed but that's another job for the future I think so I just had a quick visit of the old man pop and pipe so he slowed me up a bit again naughty pop post done on the clips everything's in place all sorted now I've got to go around and do the socket I just fed this through off camera I just snipped a bit of excess cable actually that I had brought through to the consumer unit my feed from the house I fed that up through this conduit into the consume unit so that will supply the first socket in I was going to say in the ring it's not a ring it's a radial but in the socket circuit then once it goes to here that will carry on to the next one so let's strip the cable here I'll show you how I do the socket just gonna get the bear CBC or Earth wire pull that back to there you'll see I'm not particularly quick of this I don't do this for a living just as well really I wouldn't make any money foreign [Applause] like any socket we got the Earth terminal there live terminal line and neutral terminal there and we just loosen these by putting a flat bladed screwdriver in the top like that is a boy who's just been off and got himself his toolbox like wants to be like Daddy um right so obviously here because we are connecting the two together yeah yeah on that one yeah we don't need those yet okay no no as you can see there we put the two neutral terminals into the neutral terminal with the n on it then we're gonna put both the live wires into the live terminal with the L on it I couldn't cut and finally with just one cable I would double the ends of the wire over but they probably won't fit with two so rather than a hassle two wires will be plenty enough so you can see Earth in the E there with the Earth symbol yeah live that's the L symbol in for the neutral and then because I've left a bit of length on them like that it means you can fold them in a good idea for me to remove the screws I know because they're so long sometimes that's better because you can bend them back like this all right I'll just double check now these are all nice and tight still there's something I almost forgot to do was to work this box it is a metal box so it needs everything it does have a terminal on this box already there this is what we need to do is put a length of wire with some emergency from that terminal onto the Earth terminal on the back of the socket to do this I've got a little length of wire now it's what I tend to do whenever I'm doing electrical wiring is any small offcuts are not going to be any good to me I'll strip them back I take all the copper out I leave them in my little toolbox and that means that whenever I need to Earth metal casings like this I've got a readily available set of ready strip wires let's undo this terminal at the back there place the copper wire into the terminal I'm going to tighten that up first I can now put my Earth sheet over the top that's the end of The Wire so I go back a bit there slide it off give it a snip and there we are perfect length now release the screw that I just tightened up for the Earth wires I'm going to place that down into the Earth terminal with the other two Earth wires they're all nice and tight so now we can Flex these back into the case so there we go that's one socket complete that's the power into the socket the power back out of the socket and we've heard this metal casing so I'm on my final socket and this was the thing I wanted to show you when your last socket you've obviously only got one cable on a radio because you haven't got one returning to the consume unit so for that matter you've got less wires going into the socket so just to get a nice secure connection I strip the cable twice as long as I usually would and if you get the pliers because what you want to do is put them not quite in the middle just towards the end of the middle like that then when you bend it over you should end up with almost half there we go double them up like that so it just gives a much better bite with the screw I'll just give them all a little twist on the end like that little crunch with pliers foreign as I mentioned previously I'm likely to come out of the side of this one at a later date into a fuse switch through the wall outside socket on the back but I'm going to cover that in another video so now I'm ready to wire the first light switch now in this situation we got the power coming straight from the consumer unit into the light switch and then from there it's going to power the lights now in other situations you may have seen me doing other videos we've done a ceiling Rose Arrangement and in that setup the power goes from the consumer unit up to the ceiling in a junction box as just mentioned on the ceiling Rose and then the power will come down to the switch and then from the switch back to the light so I'm going to strip all the cables first all right that's all the wires prepped if you take a look at the Three core and Earth cable which is the cable that's going to allow me to operate the lights from one end of the garage or the other you can see obviously there's four cores as suggested Three core on Earth so there's your Earth that's the bare one of CPC and you need to identify these as what they are to make sure if anyone comes back here a later date they know exactly what it is Brian will be using that as a permanent live so this one being a switch live we're going to do it brown so get a little bit of uh insulation to wrap that around there what we're going to do is use the terminal block on the back for all our cpcs or Earth wires there we go so they're all nicely secured into the back out the way because we're going to be using this gray wire as a switch live as well we put Brown tape around that like so so we now got live live live take a look at our switch we've got an earthing Point by there because it's a metal switch you wouldn't have that on a plastic switch we've got the live L1 L2 so from a one and a half mil cable that's feeding the switch we're going to take the Brown live wire and place it into L1 we're also going to take the Brown live wire from our Three core on Earth cable and we're going to place that into this switch as well in L1 now we're going to take the brown wire from the lighting cable that's carrying on up to the lights we're going to place that into L2 we're also going to take the gray wire which we've now put our Brown tape over to indicate that it's going to act as alive and we'll also place that into there now that again is too long so I'm going to trim that down then this black wire that comes from the Three core and Earth cable can go into the live or the L at the top or also known as common because this one is on its own I'm actually going to fold it over give them a little squeeze with the pliers and doubled it up I'm going to take this Earth wire here I'm going to fold that over like I did with the other one and this goes into our little Earth terminal on the back of the switch they're finally going to use this double weigo or Vargo connector whatever you want to call it and this connects the two neutrals and creates the continuity from one cable up to the next I'll just push that into the back box like that and don't forget all the other Earth wires need to go into that back box terminal by there and that means that everything is safely earthed and that is also the point of continuity between all the cables for the earthing as well so now we can tidy this up a bit form it all into place we can push that up like that and one thing I will quickly mention is whatever arrangement of wires we did at this end on the Three core on Earth we will just copy it on the other switch so this is the other switch I'm going to show you how to wire this end now now before we get going again we're using the gray as alive so that needs the brown tape on it which I've done there again black is live Brown tape on it again there we've got the Earth from the back box which is going to go into the switch which is that one and I've already done the Earth at the back there you can see which is into that terminal as well so both of you since the tuner on the back Box by there is all I do is mimic this end of the cable with what we did at the other end so black wire into the top the live and if you remember on the other switch we put the brown into the L1 so I'm going to do exactly the same on this one then we put the gray into L2 as I said just now we've got the Earth continuity of all the cables by there on that connector block on the back box but we also have to then Earth this metal switch that is the wiring done now what I need to do is remove these screws here and then put the switches back on so now I'm going to strip this cable and get it fitted to the consumer unit [Applause] as you can see now I've stripped the cable I've cut the individual wires down to size and stripped the ends there ready for termination into these terminals because all I've done is cut the length of the wires down to an appropriate size where I've left a bit of excess I've tucked them behind the DIN rail there to keep them out of the way and now we can fix them into the corresponding Earth bar neutral bar and the rcd so I'm going to pop that in there like that you can see that says n for neutral then I'm going to place the earth into the Earth bar at the top there and if you look this screw here is slightly shorter on this particular consumer unit so I'm going to place that in the opposing position to this neutral cable there now one other thing I should mention this point is that when you're tightening these up they are actually specific torque settings that you tighten them up to if you take a look at the sheet of paper actually comes with a consumer unit and gives you all the individual torque settings so it tells you the torque settings for the MCB rcbo rcd SPD anything that you've got inside your consume unit and every new consumer unit should have one of these with it so by using the appropriate Torx screwdriver you can follow the appropriate settings and tighten these up correctly for today I'm just going to do them up hand tight using the screwdriver and then we'll come back and sort these out at a later date when the electrics are inspected and tested but I'll come back to that a bit later in the video so for now to give me a bit of extra room I'm actually going to whip these two mcbs out and to do that on this particular one you just pull these clips down on the bottom underneath there you lift up and just move them away by doing that I can give myself a bit more room now I prefer the strippers on the ends of the wires a bit more positive than the other ones foreign of this one into the neutral bar I put the main feed cables on the outside here and then I'm starting on the inside and working back that way for the others so I've cut all the wires down to length I've trimmed the ends off them I've added the sheath to the CPC or the Earth wires on the lighting Cable in particular because it's only one and a half mil I've doubled the end over like that there just to make a better connection in the terminals take a little bit of that bend it over squeeze it with the pliers so it's just a double width of the wire making it a bit thicker to fit into the terminals I'm going to leave the live wires up there like the way we'll do those last so they sit in the front so I'm now going to place that into there like that tighten up for those of you that haven't noticed I've done a good electricians repair to my finger I've got to cut a few minutes ago it's always the same on these sharp bits I caught a bit of metal somewhere I'm not sure if it's on the DIN rail just started leaking everywhere so you can see a little bit of blood there on the consume unit so that's nice finally I'm going to clip my mcbs on so I'm going to put my 16 there which is for the sockets I'm going to put my six amp there that's for the lighting circuit and then I'm going to put this one back in rather than a blanking plate and we're just going to leave that empty that's the 32 that I'm not using so this is my socket [Applause] I'll just quickly show you this when you tighten this up you can see it just closes that up there that closes up onto your wire so just pulls that back like that so that's all I'm doing when you can see me tightening up there pop that back on so now this is all connected at the top one of the final things to do is to connect up this Buzz bar to the bottom of the mcbs and the rcd now the idea of this is you can see these grooves there if you're only using two of these you can cut them down to length so you could cut it there and just use two of them I'm going to actually attach all three so technically this one will be live at the bottom but I'll leave it switched off I could alternatively use this blanking plate which is an option but I'd like to use this and leave it in in case I do decide to use this MCB in the future you've got that Groove there and they just go in there and tighten up in the same Principle as the wire did in the top of the mcbs and the same goes underneath here for the rcd because all the power that's going into the rcd will feed through this bus bar into the mcbs and then obviously they can be isolated or turned on and off individually for each circuit without further Ado I'm going to stick this back on here pop that clip in I'm going to get this Buzz bar up underneath I'm going to move the camera so you can see what I'm doing now and we're going to tighten it up and again remember when we do this it needs to be tightened up to the specified torque settings in the manual then what you need to do is take this which also comes in the kit and that slides into the end like that and that protects anything from that live copper buzzbar when it's turned on at the rcd now here's one more point I didn't mention because I forgot if I'm honest now that is earthing the metal case on this now had I come through here with SWA or armored cable then you can use a proper gland by there like a brass gland which allows you to run a I think they call it a fly cable but basically or fly wire which is like an Earthen wire with a bit of a sheath goes up to this earth bar up here and that means if this ever becomes live by accident then it's all Earth safely now in my situation I haven't got one of those and I mean there's different ways you can do this but it's what I'm going to do I don't see why this isn't appropriate is I've scraped off the paint behind there behind the DIN rail just to give better contact between that and this metal bar and this metal bar is literally to hold these on these are just plastic coated these all insulated so what I'm going to do now is when I put the screw back on that side I'm going to wrap and put a copper around there I'm going to put some sheath over there and terminate it into to use bar and that should give a nice Earth connection between this metal casing or the consumer unit the Earth bar and we'll safely Earth it in the event that it does become live now back up now so I removed the paint from behind there lined this back up tightened them up on that copper which I've wrapped around there and then I will place this with its Earth sheath up into the Earth bar before I put the lid back on I just want to show you what I've done here on my rcd I've labeled that M that's just for Mains I've put that for Main feed right and then I've put number one on the socket or the 16 amp circuit and then number two by the on the light circuit or the six amp circuit and then to correspond them up there I put number one number two and number one and number two so I just know now that they're all linked up so that live there number one matches with that neutral at number one and that Earth at number one and so on and if I was to add this one which is blank I would just Mark that as number three I place it to Earth by there it's neutral by there and obviously the live in the top then in addition the one the self-explanatory which I haven't labeled is obviously this where I've used the case which is that one going up there and into the Earth bar by this one thing I just wanted to quickly show you as well is this little fire retardant seals I'll put three on already but they cover any hole in the consumer unit so you can see over my screw holes at the back they're like really thin rubbery but they just grip and pull over with the vacuum so I'll show you now here you just take that place it over the little Ridge on the back and look at that it sort of sucked itself into place with a vacuum and I'm guessing that's to meet the 18th Edition regs which basically stops you know if any Flames get behind there's fire retardant stops anything creeping into the consumer unit so we've got one there one there one there and one there line the seal up nicely before you push it in if it's not in line you're scrunch it up and it won't have its fire protection or dust protection I've done that I've lined it up so each one corresponds with something there so I put sock for sockets lights spare for the spare rcd and then in a circle I put my m in there for the main power which is pretty self-explanatory but it's what I've put inside the consumer unit then I put number one on the sockets and number two on the lights which again is how I labeled them inside we've got some more fire retardant plugs and the idea is that they go in these little holes there now I just put one in just to test it they're really really grippy and the only way I got them back out was by using a thin bit of copper wire actually rather than damage all the consumer unit with a screwdriver so for now I'm going to leave these out because if I need to take this back off while I'm doing all the work I don't want to be pulling these out and damaging them I'm sure you can buy more but I don't want to be doing it so just be the tool station I've picked up this light here it's a twin light I think the brand is integral and it's a six foot LED I changed my mind I was going to put two in one of that and one on that ends and in the end they have gone for the option of sitting it below the rafters I just felt it'll project the light a bit better and I mean if I just had a six foot one that I can put it underneath and I can have one light rather than having two at one end of the garage and the other now this one is pretty good you flick the button in on each end there and the light section just falls down like that it's got push fit to fit inside here which I'll show you in a minute so it's nice and easy to connect up you literally uh you're live in neutral your Earth pop straight in it's got a 20 millimeter update here which I was just doing and shut off we go I've done all the conduit fed the cable through there I'll show you all that in a minute but just quickly the termination here requires stripping of the wire and so I've added my Earth sheath and then up here it's a nice little push fit where else you can see that connection you've got the live the Earth the neutral if you look in there there's actually two terminals for each wire so if you want a daisy chain one back out and go to another light and you can just run it off down there and as I've just knocked out there's another knockout down there like a 20 mil Knockouts you can carry on so if you're using conduit or even just to run the keyblade or there's lots of exit points up above you could go through and this light's really nice and simple in design it's got a clip there that you just pushed to open this up and a clip at the other end exactly the same like that I just went through a couple of the holes that were in here and screwed up into the rafters there were specific holes one there and one there and it came with two screws and two wall plugs in case you're going into plasterboard and it's not at all heavy but Belton braces I've put two screws there two screws in the middle and two at the other end and I just found some different holes gently push them into place I've used that female adapter on the Conduit again just like all the others two Saddles up on the underside of those Rafters and then I've gone along under the rafter over here and then back to there and then you can see them by using these joints I was able to sort of swivel that because these Rafters are slightly tilting down and then that could slope down with the rafter so there's no tension in that conduit so yeah pretty much this is all done so let's give you a quick look around so where it all started we've got consumer unit we got the power down to the sockets all the way around to that socket up there and we go over the top you can see through that conduit we went all the way across this wall plate up there back around and down to this socket and as I mentioned before a later date I am going to stick a few switch next to that go through the wall and put an outside socket or flat then let's go back around again we go to the light switch we got the power going up there it then goes through this bit of conduit that we've just done all the way across back underneath these Rafters and straight over to my One Baton LED light background to the switch again we've got our Three core on Earth cable which goes up there shares that length of conduit and then runs on its own all the way across that length the conduit it turns around there and I wired all that up and so now these two switches over there and over there both control the light so there we go that's all my wiring done but there is one more thing that I need to cover now what we need to know is that domestic electrical work in the UK must meet the requirements of the party regulations now I'm not a qualified electrician so you might be thinking well why are you doing this work and showing us well I've done other electrical work in the house and I do know an electrician that's happy with my work and he has come out previously signed off test and inspected all my work and he's also said in this situation he's happy to do the same this is not connected to the consumer unit in the house so there's no power to this garage electric so technically what I've done is just rigged up a dead circuit so the electrician can now come out you can take the cover off the consumer unit the sockets the light switches he's got access to all the connections you can test it inspect it do what he needs to do if he's happy with the work and he's happy to sign it off he will then make the final connection at the consumer unit in my house I'm able to do this because I know someone that will do it I know a lot of people often say that electricians won't do this I have seen on YouTube other electricians that do do this with people that they trust and are happy with the kind of work they do now this is something that you know you can discuss in the comment section below if you like a bit of a contentious issue but I don't see anything wrong personally with doing this don't make the connection let the electrician come out and technically you've done nothing wrong and if he's happy with the work then happy days now hopefully what I've shown you in this video gives you an insight into what's required when wiring up a garage but don't forget it's not the only way to do it there are other ways to do it if you found this video useful please give it a like and finally if you haven't done so already please subscribe to my channel and press that Bell icon for regular notifications I've been posted around the house Tata farewell [Music]

Channel: POUSE around the HOUSE

Views: 169,874

Keywords: garage consumer unit wiring, how to wire a garage, full ring circuit installation, radial circuit installation, full electrical wiring tutorial, how to wire a consumer unit, how to wir a radial circuit, how to fit conduit, hot to install electrics, how to fit electrical witing, domestic electrics, domestic electric installation, twin and earth cable, 3 core and earth cable, garage wiring made easy, electrical tutorial for beginners, full domestic electrics install

Id: UfAfc4UOMgc

Length: 55min 35sec (3335 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 12 2023